stuck caliper...

TeGGer® wrote:
> Don't get silicone on the rotor friction surface. But since the caliper is
> OFF the rotor as you work on it, that's not a problem. Anywhere else is
> fine, including contact with the brake fluid.

Thanks again, that's exactly what I wanted to know. I already know
enough not to get it on the rotor!

Incidentally, would it be imprudent to dab a small amount of brake
caliper grease at the edges of the pad backing plate where it contacts
the caliper? My existing pads are pretty well stuck at that point with
rust. I'm assuming I'll wire-brush/sand the caliper at that point before
installing the new pads.

> You don't need to disassemble the installed caliper. The procedure I gave
> specifically avoids that.

Sorry, I should've said something like "doubt I'll be messing with the
boot"--I don't want to stress it at all if the rubber is on the old
side. 'Spose I could examine it and decide on the spot.

If I understood you correctly, the piston is supposed to be able to
rotate--so there's no channel that prevents it from doing so? Or is it
that I have to eject the piston past such a channel?

SoCalMike wrote:
> AFAICT, "lifetime" pads are lifetime pads. they count on people to lose
> the receipt, forget, or sell the car.

I'll take a look at the warranty and file the receipt anyway. Far out.

> the only one ive ever seen got the caliper so hot the boot melted, and
> all the fluid leaked out.

The boot is fine. Maybe I'll be lucky...

SoCalMike wrote:
> AFAICT, "lifetime" pads are lifetime pads. they count on people to lose
> the receipt, forget, or sell the car.

I'll take a look at the warranty and file the receipt anyway. Far out.

> the only one ive ever seen got the caliper so hot the boot melted, and
> all the fluid leaked out.

The boot is fine. Maybe I'll be lucky...

TeGGer® wrote:
> As of today, 237,811 miles (and counting) on my original. Owned the car
> since new, too.

Whew! Sure wish I could take a ride with you to learn how to do it
properly! Not that I've worn out a clutch yet, but the previous owner
had hers replaced at a mere 81K, I bought it at 112K, and have no
illusions that I'm an expert at shifting--I may be doing it right, might
be less-than-perfect. At least I don't ever smell that clutch-burning
smell... ;-) Anyway, I'm still working out the occasional kinks after 8
yeasr with an automatic.

TeGGer® wrote:
> As of today, 237,811 miles (and counting) on my original. Owned the car
> since new, too.

Whew! Sure wish I could take a ride with you to learn how to do it
properly! Not that I've worn out a clutch yet, but the previous owner
had hers replaced at a mere 81K, I bought it at 112K, and have no
illusions that I'm an expert at shifting--I may be doing it right, might
be less-than-perfect. At least I don't ever smell that clutch-burning
smell... ;-) Anyway, I'm still working out the occasional kinks after 8
yeasr with an automatic.

Abeness wrote:
> Incidentally, would it be imprudent to dab a small amount of brake
> caliper grease at the edges of the pad backing plate where it contacts
> the caliper?

Never mind, I just reread your FAQ comments on the topic.

Abeness wrote:
> Incidentally, would it be imprudent to dab a small amount of brake
> caliper grease at the edges of the pad backing plate where it contacts
> the caliper?

Never mind, I just reread your FAQ comments on the topic.

Abeness wrote:
>
> TeGGer® wrote:
> > "Downshifting" without double-clutching is not smart. You are NOT supposed
> > to use the clutch as a brake pad.
> >
> > Downshift properly and there is zero wear on the friction disc.
>
> I've heard here that double-clutching means putting it in neutral
> between shifts and letting the clutch out (i.e., releasing the pedal),
> but wouldn't the point be to simply rev-match (approximately, after long
> experience) before engaging at the lower gear, to reduce the wear on the
> clutch?

I am in full agreement with you on what double-clutching is. In the good
old days, before fully synchronized transmissions, double-clutching was
a must.

Doing it on a car with a synchronized transmission does not reduce wear
on the clutch, but it reduces wear on the synchros. If your synchros are
already worn out, double-clutching will allow you to shift with less
clunking and grinding, particularly on down-shifts.

Abeness wrote:
>
> TeGGer® wrote:
> > "Downshifting" without double-clutching is not smart. You are NOT supposed
> > to use the clutch as a brake pad.
> >
> > Downshift properly and there is zero wear on the friction disc.
>
> I've heard here that double-clutching means putting it in neutral
> between shifts and letting the clutch out (i.e., releasing the pedal),
> but wouldn't the point be to simply rev-match (approximately, after long
> experience) before engaging at the lower gear, to reduce the wear on the
> clutch?

I am in full agreement with you on what double-clutching is. In the good
old days, before fully synchronized transmissions, double-clutching was
a must.

Doing it on a car with a synchronized transmission does not reduce wear
on the clutch, but it reduces wear on the synchros. If your synchros are
already worn out, double-clutching will allow you to shift with less
clunking and grinding, particularly on down-shifts.

Abeness wrote:
> TeGGer® wrote:
>
>> "Downshifting" without double-clutching is not smart. You are NOT
>> supposed to use the clutch as a brake pad.
>>
>> Downshift properly and there is zero wear on the friction disc.
>
>
> I've heard here that double-clutching means putting it in neutral
> between shifts and letting the clutch out (i.e., releasing the pedal),
> but wouldn't the point be to simply rev-match (approximately, after long
> experience) before engaging at the lower gear, to reduce the wear on the
> clutch?

there's no real wear on the clutch from shifting, whether just relying
on synchros or double clutching. clutch wear comes from drive-away from
a standstill, holding it on the clutch on hills, "resting" a foot on the
clutch pedal on the freeway, etc. if you don't peel away from lights,
use the parking brake on hills & rest your foot on the floor, there's no
reason a clutch won't last like tegger's is doing. also don't under
rate a dealer's hunger for recommending unnecessary work.

yes, double clutching is putting into neutral and using engine revs to
spin/slow the ratios on the next gear so they engage cleanly. even with
synchros, many big rig drivers still do it to reduce synchro wear or
even get the thing into gear in the first place! it's less of an issue
these days, but when synchros first came in, some designs weren't too
good and they'd wear out quickly. expensive! with a good modern
synchro, once moving, you can change gear without using the clutch at
all. don't make a habit of it, but you can test that for yourself -
just do what you'd do normally to shift with shift lever & throttle, but
don't touch the clutch! honda synchros are very good and won't let you
fubar anything unless you try /real/ hard.