E36 Bad Climate Control?

My 1999 M3 convertible's climate control has started acting up. The
display of temperatures set and fan speed will dim, then go out and it
will turn off the fan. It seems to also turn on the rear window
defogging fan. If I thump the dash next to it, that will sometimes
get it to work again (the "bigger hammer" repair theory).

I've seen threads and web articles on replacing a capacitor inside the
controller and I've got the tech skills to do that. Is that likely to
solve the problem? The symptoms I've got don't seem to quite mesh
with the ones shown for that solution.

Thanks!

Bob

BobP wrote:
> My 1999 M3 convertible's climate control has started acting up. The
> display of temperatures set and fan speed will dim, then go out and it
> will turn off the fan. It seems to also turn on the rear window
> defogging fan. If I thump the dash next to it, that will sometimes
> get it to work again (the "bigger hammer" repair theory).
>
> I've seen threads and web articles on replacing a capacitor inside the
> controller and I've got the tech skills to do that. Is that likely to
> solve the problem? The symptoms I've got don't seem to quite mesh
> with the ones shown for that solution.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob

Actually - the replace the capacitor works because the job entails
resoldering the new capacitor in. The problem isn't the capacitor - it's
a cracked solder joint (which thumping the dash closes up..) Since you
have the skills - reflowing the solder joints on the circuit board is a
cheap/free thing to try first.

On Jun 6, 10:28*am, admin > wrote:
> BobP wrote:
> > My 1999 M3 convertible's climate control has started acting up. *The
> > display of temperatures set and fan speed will dim, then go out and it
> > will turn off the fan. *It seems to also turn on the rear window
> > defogging fan. *If I thump the dash next to it, that will sometimes
> > get it to work again (the "bigger hammer" repair theory).
>
> > I've seen threads and web articles on replacing a capacitor inside the
> > controller and I've got the tech skills to do that. *Is that likely to
> > solve the problem? *The symptoms I've got don't seem to quite mesh
> > with the ones shown for that solution.
>
> > Thanks!
>
> > Bob
>
> Actually - the replace the capacitor works because the job entails
> resoldering the new capacitor in. The problem isn't the capacitor - it's
> a cracked solder joint (which thumping the dash closes up..) Since you
> have the skills - reflowing the solder joints on the circuit board is a
> cheap/free thing to try first.

Interesting. Hadn't read that before. Might give that a go first.
Nothing to lose at this point.

Thanks.

Bob

On Jun 6, 3:14*pm, BobP > wrote:
> On Jun 6, 10:28*am, admin > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > BobP wrote:
> > > My 1999 M3 convertible's climate control has started acting up. *The
> > > display of temperatures set and fan speed will dim, then go out and it
> > > will turn off the fan. *It seems to also turn on the rear window
> > > defogging fan. *If I thump the dash next to it, that will sometimes
> > > get it to work again (the "bigger hammer" repair theory).
>
> > > I've seen threads and web articles on replacing a capacitor inside the
> > > controller and I've got the tech skills to do that. *Is that likely to
> > > solve the problem? *The symptoms I've got don't seem to quite mesh
> > > with the ones shown for that solution.
>
> > > Thanks!
>
> > > Bob
>
> > Actually - the replace the capacitor works because the job entails
> > resoldering the new capacitor in. The problem isn't the capacitor - it's
> > a cracked solder joint (which thumping the dash closes up..) Since you
> > have the skills - reflowing the solder joints on the circuit board is a
> > cheap/free thing to try first.
>
> Interesting. *Hadn't read that before. *Might give that a go first.
> Nothing to lose at this point.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob

Heck, it worked. Just popped out the controller, took it apart,
scraped through the finish over the solder, resoldered the existing
capacitor. Works like a charm so far.

Bob

In article
>,
BobP > wrote:
> > > Actually - the replace the capacitor works because the job entails
> > > resoldering the new capacitor in. The problem isn't the capacitor -
> > > it's a cracked solder joint (which thumping the dash closes up..)
> > > Since you have the skills - reflowing the solder joints on the
> > > circuit board is a cheap/free thing to try first.
> >
> > Interesting. Hadn't read that before. Might give that a go first.
> > Nothing to lose at this point.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bob

> Heck, it worked. Just popped out the controller, took it apart,
> scraped through the finish over the solder, resoldered the existing
> capacitor. Works like a charm so far.

Just disturbing a board can 'sort' a dry joint for a while. So hopefully
you've sorted it but don't get disheartened if it comes back.

--
*Despite the cost of living, have you noticed how it remains so popular?*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

BobP wrote:

> Heck, it worked. Just popped out the controller, took it apart,
> scraped through the finish over the solder, resoldered the existing
> capacitor. Works like a charm so far.
>
> Bob

The same thing works on early 90's-vintage Honda main relays, which are
also prone to failure. I've reflowed the solder joints on two of them
(adding some fresh solder to all the joints each time). Neither ever
failed again, and one of the cars is still in service 50K+ miles later.

--
JRE

On Jun 10, 2:06*am, "Dave Plowman (News)" >
wrote:
> In article
> >,
> * *BobP > wrote:
>
> > > > Actually - the replace the capacitor works because the job entails
> > > > resoldering the new capacitor in. The problem isn't the capacitor -
> > > > it's a cracked solder joint (which thumping the dash closes up..)
> > > > Since you have the skills - reflowing the solder joints on the
> > > > circuit board is a cheap/free thing to try first.
>
> > > Interesting. *Hadn't read that before. *Might give that a go first..
> > > Nothing to lose at this point.
>
> > > Thanks.
>
> > > Bob
> > Heck, it worked. *Just popped out the controller, took it apart,
> > scraped through the finish over the solder, resoldered the existing
> > capacitor. *Works like a charm so far.
>
> Just disturbing a board can 'sort' a dry joint for a while. So hopefully
> you've sorted it but don't get disheartened if it comes back.

Well considering that I've been out in Redlands a few times the past
couple weeks where it's around 100* during the day, I'm *thrilled*
that the A/C works again. If it dies again, well, I'll try to re-redo
it. But I'm gonna hope I don't have to, regardless.

Bob

BobP wrote:
> Heck, it worked. Just popped out the controller, took it apart,
> scraped through the finish over the solder, resoldered the existing
> capacitor. Works like a charm so far.
>
> Bob

Of course it worked... who you gonna believe? Some company or what some
unknown person tells you on the Internet?

Oh - right.

You can buy me a beer sometime..

(This also works on Motronic 1.1 boxes used on the E28/E24 series.. on
those the output transistor leads break free - a bit of resoldering and
they're good to go. Bet ModuleMaster gets $200-300 for that little trick.)

On Jun 10, 1:18*pm, admin > wrote:
> BobP wrote:
> > Heck, it worked. *Just popped out the controller, took it apart,
> > scraped through the finish over the solder, resoldered the existing
> > capacitor. *Works like a charm so far.
>
> > Bob
>
> Of course it worked... *who you gonna believe? Some company or what some
> unknown person tells you on the Internet?
>
> Oh - right.
>
> You can buy me a beer sometime..
>
> (This also works on Motronic 1.1 boxes used on the E28/E24 series.. on
> those the output transistor leads break free - a bit of resoldering and
> they're good to go. Bet ModuleMaster gets $200-300 for that little trick.)

Hey, with nothing to lose I was willing to take a flier.

e-beer sent.

Rancho