Red Light, Ignition Off

This is all unrelated to my first gear shimmys, so I am starting a new
thread. Although I suppose all the shaking and jolting could have
knocked something else loose?

Anyhow, I came out from work today to a dead battery. I hadn't left
anything on, but it was raining all day long here in Ohio and I
suspected a bad ground somewhere. I gave it a jump, and it started
right up - battery seems solid.

But when I got home and cut the engine off, my red light came on. I
have a 68' bug and I know there are a lot of differences between the
years and what the colors mean. I am pretty sure a red light for me
is electrical and a green one is oil pressure. Now, according to what
I am reading in Muirs book, a red light with ignition off means a bad
regulator. But if you read my post from just a few weeks ago you will
see that I just installed a new regulator! Could it be dead all
ready?

I am also finding that this could be a bad ignition switch. Would
there be a way I could rule that out - without having to spend the big
money on a new assembly?

As always, thanks for the good words,
-Steve Ballantyne
68 Bug.

wrote:
> This is all unrelated to my first gear shimmys, so I am starting a new
> thread. Although I suppose all the shaking and jolting could have
> knocked something else loose?
>
> Anyhow, I came out from work today to a dead battery. I hadn't left
> anything on, but it was raining all day long here in Ohio and I
> suspected a bad ground somewhere. I gave it a jump, and it started
> right up - battery seems solid.
>
> But when I got home and cut the engine off, my red light came on. I
> have a 68' bug and I know there are a lot of differences between the
> years and what the colors mean. I am pretty sure a red light for me
> is electrical and a green one is oil pressure. Now, according to what
> I am reading in Muirs book, a red light with ignition off means a bad
> regulator. But if you read my post from just a few weeks ago you will
> see that I just installed a new regulator! Could it be dead all
> ready?
>
> I am also finding that this could be a bad ignition switch. Would
> there be a way I could rule that out - without having to spend the big
> money on a new assembly?
>
> As always, thanks for the good words,
> -Steve Ballantyne
> 68 Bug.
\


If the Ignition switch were faulty, the OIL light would be on too.
Horn and turn signals would work too w/key off.

If the car has a generator, then it does sound like bad regulator.

If so, it may have played havoc with the generator as well.

Look on my web site for: "How do I test my Generator ? "
and do the tests spelled out.
If the Gen passes the tests, get a new reg.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On Oct 24, 6:34�pm, "
> wrote:
> This is all unrelated to my first gear shimmys, so I am starting a new
> thread. �Although I suppose all the shaking and jolting could have
> knocked something else loose?
>
> Anyhow, I came out from work today to a dead battery. �I hadn't left
> anything on, but it was raining all day long here in Ohio and I
> suspected a bad ground somewhere. �I gave it a jump, and it started
> right up - battery seems solid.
>
> But when I got home and cut the engine off, my red light came on. �I
> have a 68' bug and I know there are a lot of differences between the
> years and what the colors mean. �I am pretty sure a red light for me
> is electrical and a green one is oil pressure. �Now, according to what
> I am reading in Muirs book, a red light with ignition off means a bad
> regulator. �But if you read my post from just a few weeks ago you will
> see that I just installed a new regulator! �Could it be dead all
> ready?
>
> I am also finding that this could be a bad ignition switch. �Would
> there be a way I could rule that out - without having to spend the big
> money on a new assembly?
>
> As always, thanks for the good words,
> -Steve Ballantyne
> 68 Bug.

It would be easier to determine if you had a voltmeter and knew what
the voltage at the battery with the engine at 3000 rpms, should be
around 13.6 volts

check out Speedy Jims home page he explains very well how to test your
charging system. http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On Oct 24, 8:38*pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> If the Ignition switch were faulty, the OIL light would be on too.
> Horn and turn signals would work too w/key off.

Okay, well then I guess that's good news. I can't afford a new
ignition right now. :-)

> If the car has a generator, then it does sound like bad regulator.

I do have a generator.

> If so, it may have played havoc with the generator as well.

The only silver lining here would be that I actually have two
generators (one in the car, one in the basement). Both tested out
okay a few weeks ago.

> Look on my web site for: "How do I test my Generator ? *"
> and do the tests spelled out.
> If the Gen passes the tests, get a new reg.
>
> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

This is like "deja vu all over again". But then if it turns out to be
the regulator (as I suspect) than I should be able to trade it for a
new one. I just bought this a few weeks ago and it came with a
lifetime warranty.

-Steve Ballantyne
68' Bug

Is this an electronic voltage regulator (yuck) or a mechanical voltage
regulator (yeah)? Bosch unit?
Make sure nothing metal fell onto the regulator terminals and use Speedy
Jim's testing procedures!

"Ray Dios Haque" > wrote

snip

> Look on my web site for: "How do I test my Generator ? "
> and do the tests spelled out.
> If the Gen passes the tests, get a new reg.
>
> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

This is like "deja vu all over again". But then if it turns out to be
the regulator (as I suspect) than I should be able to trade it for a
new one. I just bought this a few weeks ago and it came with a
lifetime warranty.

-Steve Ballantyne
68' Bug

dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
> Is this an electronic voltage regulator (yuck) or a mechanical voltage
> regulator (yeah)? Bosch unit?
> Make sure nothing metal fell onto the regulator terminals and use Speedy
> Jim's testing procedures!
>
> "Ray Dios Haque" > wrote
>
> snip
>
>> Look on my web site for: "How do I test my Generator ? "
>> and do the tests spelled out.
>> If the Gen passes the tests, get a new reg.
>>
>> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> This is like "deja vu all over again". But then if it turns out to be
> the regulator (as I suspect) than I should be able to trade it for a
> new one. I just bought this a few weeks ago and it came with a
> lifetime warranty.
>
> -Steve Ballantyne
> 68' Bug
>
>
Lifetime warranty! Oh No! That means if you try to get it replaced
they come and kill you!!! Aggggh!

On Oct 25, 8:40*am, " > wrote:
> On Oct 24, 6:34 pm, "
>
>
>
>
>
> > wrote:
> > This is all unrelated to my first gear shimmys, so I am starting a new
> > thread. Although I suppose all the shaking and jolting could have
> > knocked something else loose?
>
> > Anyhow, I came out from work today to a dead battery. I hadn't left
> > anything on, but it was raining all day long here in Ohio and I
> > suspected a bad ground somewhere. I gave it a jump, and it started
> > right up - battery seems solid.
>
> > But when I got home and cut the engine off, my red light came on. I
> > have a 68' bug and I know there are a lot of differences between the
> > years and what the colors mean. I am pretty sure a red light for me
> > is electrical and a green one is oil pressure. Now, according to what
> > I am reading in Muirs book, a red light with ignition off means a bad
> > regulator. But if you read my post from just a few weeks ago you will
> > see that I just installed a new regulator! Could it be dead all
> > ready?
>
> > I am also finding that this could be a bad ignition switch. Would
> > there be a way I could rule that out - without having to spend the big
> > money on a new assembly?
>
> > As always, thanks for the good words,
> > -Steve Ballantyne
> > 68 Bug.
>
> It would be easier to determine if you had a voltmeter and knew what
> the voltage at the battery with the engine at 3000 rpms, should be
> around 13.6 volts
>
> check out Speedy Jims home page he explains very well how to test your
> charging system. *http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

sorry it took a day for that to post , Jims wasn't up when I posted.
BTW How are you feeling now jim I hope things are going well for you.
take care

On Oct 25, 1:34*am, "
> wrote:
> This is all unrelated to my first gear shimmys, so I am starting a new
> thread. *Although I suppose all the shaking and jolting could have
> knocked something else loose?
>
> Anyhow, I came out from work today to a dead battery. *I hadn't left
> anything on, but it was raining all day long here in Ohio and I
> suspected a bad ground somewhere. *I gave it a jump, and it started
> right up - battery seems solid.
>
> But when I got home and cut the engine off, my red light came on. *I
> have a 68' bug and I know there are a lot of differences between the
> years and what the colors mean. *I am pretty sure a red light for me
> is electrical and a green one is oil pressure. *Now, according to what
> I am reading in Muirs book, a red light with ignition off means a bad
> regulator. *But if you read my post from just a few weeks ago you will
> see that I just installed a new regulator! *Could it be dead all
> ready?
>
> I am also finding that this could be a bad ignition switch. *Would
> there be a way I could rule that out - without having to spend the big
> money on a new assembly?
>
> As always, thanks for the good words,
> -Steve Ballantyne
> 68 Bug.

This has happened to me in the past, it turned out to be a bad
regulator.

Joseph

On Oct 24, 3:34 pm, "
> wrote:
> This is all unrelated to my first gear shimmys, so I am starting a new
> thread. Although I suppose all the shaking and jolting could have
> knocked something else loose?
>
> Anyhow, I came out from work today to a dead battery. I hadn't left
> anything on, but it was raining all day long here in Ohio and I
> suspected a bad ground somewhere. I gave it a jump, and it started
> right up - battery seems solid.
>
> But when I got home and cut the engine off, my red light came on. I
> have a 68' bug and I know there are a lot of differences between the
> years and what the colors mean. I am pretty sure a red light for me
> is electrical and a green one is oil pressure. Now, according to what
> I am reading in Muirs book, a red light with ignition off means a bad
> regulator. But if you read my post from just a few weeks ago you will
> see that I just installed a new regulator! Could it be dead all
> ready?
>
> I am also finding that this could be a bad ignition switch. Would
> there be a way I could rule that out - without having to spend the big
> money on a new assembly?
>
> As always, thanks for the good words,
> -Steve Ballantyne
> 68 Bug.

Ignore all posts by Kafertoys. He's a thief and a dip**** con man.

Well, well, well. Here is what has transpired with my Voltage
Regulator.

I took my "new one" back to the auto store and had it swapped under
warranty. A new one came in, and I installed it. When this one went
in, I got no voltage at all out of it - and it lit up like a Christmas
tree (and smelled like a fireplace). So I took this one back to the
shop and told the counter clerk that I am not crazy, and I really
believe that I am the victim of some bad parts. He agreed, and
exchanged it for a third time.

Voltage regulator NUMBER THREE worked really well for two weeks - but
has now started to lock up on me. Usually it's when I have been
accelerating, and I am slowing to a stop. I get the old red light on
the dash. If I reach back and give a gentle tap to the regulator, the
light goes out and I go merrily on my way. But - I don't want to keep
this up, and the damned part is brand new! I don't think I want to
try taking this part back AGAIN. First because they have got to think
I am a nut at this point. But I don't want yet another regulator with
"different problems".

Is there an adjustment I can do to keep the points from sticking? I
was able to come up with some instructions for adjusting the voltage
level, but I am not interested in that. I just want the lock-ups to
cease. Should I do a light sanding over the contacts? Should I
spread the gap on them?

My long term plan is to buy a sold state Bosch and keep this pain in
the ass mechanical one as a spare. But I don't have the money to drop
another $30-$50 into this right now!

Thanks,
-Steve Ballantyne
68' Bug