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#11
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
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#13
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
On 05/28/2012 10:35 AM, Tegger wrote:
> "Douglas C. > wrote in > : > >> On 5/27/12 2:21 PM, Tegger wrote: > >>> >>> Do NOT use dry graphite as a lock lubricant. >>> >> >> I thought those dry powdered graphite-packed syringes were a >> locksmith's first response for sticky keyways/tumblers?? >> > > > > Ordinarily, I guess they would be. The problem with car locks -- and what > makes them different -- is that they pick up a lot of water, and water > that's sometimes mixed with salt. and none of that has anything to do with "lightness" of "oil". > > Automakers install a little metal door in the key slot in an attempt at > keeping out most of the water. It does work against dust and dirt, but each > time you push the key into a wet lock, you push some water into the lock. > Locks are made of corrodable metals. Over time, corrosion makes the > tumblers stick in their sliding-recesses. This eventually causes the > tumblers to stop sliding, and either 1) the key won't go in, or 2) it won't > come out, or 3) it won't turn. actually, the metals in door locks are fairly inert. their problem is that they're soft and they wear rather than corrode. > > In addition to all that, the tiny spring that holds the flap closed tends > to break. And at that point the flap hangs open and allows /everything/ > inside. the spring is usually fairly reliable. if your "flap" is stuck open, the chances are, some kind fellow with a screwdriver has just "adjusted" your door lock for you as they attempted to help you empty the glove box and give you a reason to buy a new stereo. > > Graphite is meant to lubricate locks that are always DRY, or which have a > chance to dry out if wet, such as house locks. If you live in Arizona, > graphite will work for you. Otherwise, graphite in an automotive lock tends > to form a slurry with the water, making it take even longer to evaporate, > and letting it corrode the metal parts even more. Graphite does not prevent > corrosion. tegger, the "slurry" is wear product from the soft die-cast cylinder and soft brass tumblers. in case you were to be interested [???] anyone can considerably extend the life of their door locks by carefully inserting the key and allowing it to self-position laterally before exerting any rotation force to it. but for most people with all kinds of surplus crap on their key ring, that's never going to happen and locks are going to wear quickly. > > Lock Ease, probably the most popular lubricant meant specifically for > locks, isn't really a good choice for automotive locks used in snowy > climates. You need an oily substance, not a graphite-y substance. Some will > tell you not to use an oil on account of dust, but that warning is not > applicable to car locks. graphite doesn't freeze tegger - that's why it's ideal for automotive locks. > > I have found that a substance called "Rust Check", completely bogus. the lock cylinder is die-cast [predominantly zinc], the tumblers are brass, and the return springs are stainless [very high quality too i may add - it prevents them fatiguing and breaking - what people really don't like to happen in locks]. none of them "rust". > which is apparently sold > only in Ontario, Canada, works the best. But then it never gets much below > -10F where I live. A very similar substance is sold under the Carwell brand > in New York State. The OP's problem is that he's in an area subject to > extremley low temperatures, so he needs an oil even lighter than the one > used by Carwell. A gun-shop or sewing-machine shop may be able to help. just use graphite and be done with it. a good flushing with wd40 first to float out wear debris won't hurt either - if you don't mind a week of dirty oil streaks on your car door. -- nomina rutrum rutrum |
#14
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
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#15
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
On 05/28/2012 08:55 PM, Al wrote:
> On 5/26/2012 4:30 PM, wrote: >> I have a 2004 Honda Accord DX with manual door locks. >> >> In the last few days, I've had difficulty inserting the key into the >> door lock on the driver's side. It's become impossible at times today, >> which forces me to get in the car from the passenger's side so I can >> unlock the driver's side door. (Fortunately, that door lock isn't >> problematic. This confirms that the problem is specific to the >> driver's side door lock.) Now I'm missing the front bench seat and >> column-mounted shifter that some GMs, Fords, and Chryslers used to >> have. Sliding into the driver's seat from the other side of the car >> isn't an option in a car with bucket seats. >> >> At the beginning of last year, I had the same problem with the trunk >> lock - the key wouldn't go all the way in, and I had to use the remote >> trunk release to open the trunk. The tumblers in the trunk lock were >> the problem. So I had to have the trunk lock replaced, and I have to >> use a different key to open it. (The dealer offered me the option of >> having the trunk lock configured to work with the original key, but I >> decided against spending the extra money this would have required.) >> >> I'll have to take my car to the dealer again and see if the tumblers >> in the driver's side door lock are the problem. >> >> How common is it for cars to have bad tumblers? Is there anything I >> can do to prevent bad tumblers? >> >> How much risk is there that I'll have the same problem later with the >> ignition? I'm hoping that the more protected environment of the >> ignition switch will prevent such a problem from happening there. But >> if the problem happens there, it will be much more serious. At least >> when the problem is just a door or trunk lock, I have workarounds. If >> I can't insert the key into the ignition, then I'll be stranded and >> have to call for a tow truck. > > You could switch the tumbler/cylinder from the passenger door to the > driver side door. rarely possible - not on a honda anyway - they have left and right cylinders with external keyways just to prevent you cheaping out of buying new. > That way you would still have the same key for > the door and ignition. Under ordinary circumstances passenger > door locks are hardly ever used and are not even being included > on many newer models. I think it is unusual for both your trunk > and one door to have a problem - do you have kids sticking stuff > in those locks, or do you use your key as a pry bar, screwdriver, > or other tool? I would not worry about the ignition lock. -- nomina rutrum rutrum |
#16
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
On 5/28/12 1:35 PM, Tegger wrote:
> "Douglas C. > wrote in > : > >> On 5/27/12 2:21 PM, Tegger wrote: > >>> >>> Do NOT use dry graphite as a lock lubricant. >>> >> >> I thought those dry powdered graphite-packed syringes were a >> locksmith's first response for sticky keyways/tumblers?? >> > > > > Ordinarily, I guess they would be. The problem with car locks -- and what > makes them different -- is that they pick up a lot of water, and water > that's sometimes mixed with salt. > > Automakers install a little metal door in the key slot in an attempt at > keeping out most of the water. It does work against dust and dirt, but each > time you push the key into a wet lock, you push some water into the lock. > Locks are made of corrodable metals. Over time, corrosion makes the > tumblers stick in their sliding-recesses. This eventually causes the > tumblers to stop sliding, and either 1) the key won't go in, or 2) it won't > come out, or 3) it won't turn. > > In addition to all that, the tiny spring that holds the flap closed tends > to break. And at that point the flap hangs open and allows /everything/ > inside. > > Graphite is meant to lubricate locks that are always DRY, or which have a > chance to dry out if wet, such as house locks. If you live in Arizona, > graphite will work for you. Otherwise, graphite in an automotive lock tends > to form a slurry with the water, making it take even longer to evaporate, > and letting it corrode the metal parts even more. Graphite does not prevent > corrosion. > > Lock Ease, probably the most popular lubricant meant specifically for > locks, isn't really a good choice for automotive locks used in snowy > climates. You need an oily substance, not a graphite-y substance. Some will > tell you not to use an oil on account of dust, but that warning is not > applicable to car locks. > > I have found that a substance called "Rust Check", which is apparently sold > only in Ontario, Canada, works the best. But then it never gets much below > -10F where I live. A very similar substance is sold under the Carwell brand > in New York State. The OP's problem is that he's in an area subject to > extremley low temperatures, so he needs an oil even lighter than the one > used by Carwell. A gun-shop or sewing-machine shop may be able to help. > Oh. |
#17
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
On 5/29/2012 12:10 AM, jim beam wrote:
> On 05/28/2012 08:55 PM, Al wrote: >> On 5/26/2012 4:30 PM, wrote: >> >> You could switch the tumbler/cylinder from the passenger door to the >> driver side door. > > rarely possible - not on a honda anyway - they have left and right > cylinders with external keyways just to prevent you cheaping out of > buying new. > > >> opps, sorry. Didn't know that. OP, ignore that suggestion. |
#18
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
Thanks for your suggestions. With the aid of WD-40, I am now able to lock/unlock the driver's side door with the key from outside the car.
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#19
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
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#20
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Problem with door lock in my 2004 Honda Accord (tumblers?)
On 06/04/2012 06:55 PM, Tegger wrote:
> wrote in > : > >> Thanks for your suggestions. With the aid of WD-40, I am now able to >> lock/unlock the driver's side door with the key from outside the car. > > > WD-40 is not a lubricant. rather than just regurgitate the same old same old, why don't you show us how your research allowed you to arrive at this conclusion? or instead, if you have grounds on which to disagree, why don't you file a complaint with the ad standards council? <http://www.adstandards.com/en/ConsumerComplaints/howToSubmitAComplaint.aspx> because the manufacturer thinks different. <http://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/function/frees-sticky-mechanisms/> > Get some real oil in there before it sticks > again. would that be oil that freezes? -- nomina rutrum rutrum |
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