wheel cylinder

I've been losing brake fluid for the past season in my stock 56 oval &
finally found the source (well, it really revealed itself). My right front
wheel cylinder is now leaking pretty seriously. I've looked at Bentley for
"how to" but reading the lack of detail leaves me a little nervous
(admittedly have not yet gotten around to Idiot Guide). 1. Would the
Bug-Me video offer sufficient how-to even though it deals with later model
beetle brakes to increase my comfort level? 2. It would seem to me that I
would want to at least replace both front wheel cylinders (or should I only
do the right front). Finally, could this have been the source of my car
dipping and diving to the left when braking hard (if there is such a thing
in an oval) everything else in the car checked out ok (brake adjustment, no
binding of the hoses, kingpins replaced, etc).

Thanks. DB

DB wrote:
>
> I've been losing brake fluid for the past season in my stock 56 oval &
> finally found the source (well, it really revealed itself). My right front
> wheel cylinder is now leaking pretty seriously. I've looked at Bentley for
> "how to" but reading the lack of detail leaves me a little nervous
> (admittedly have not yet gotten around to Idiot Guide). 1. Would the
> Bug-Me video offer sufficient how-to even though it deals with later model
> beetle brakes to increase my comfort level? 2. It would seem to me that I
> would want to at least replace both front wheel cylinders (or should I only
> do the right front). Finally, could this have been the source of my car
> dipping and diving to the left when braking hard (if there is such a thing
> in an oval) everything else in the car checked out ok (brake adjustment, no
> binding of the hoses, kingpins replaced, etc).
>
> Thanks. DB

Sheeesh! Only a half century lifespan on wheel cylinders?
You'd think VW could have done better than that. (Just kidding.)

One leaking wheel cyl is a warning. Heed it. Yes, this is almost
certainly the cause of diving to left.

Plan on replacing all 4 wheel cylinders PLUS the master cylinder,
plus the 4 brake hoses. And inspect all the steel lines for rust,
especially where the line passes under the pedal cluster.

The wheel with the leaker now has a drum which is fluid-soaked;
that will either have to be cleaned or replaced. Whether to replace
will depend upon the wear the drum measures.

AND the shoes are soaked; replace. Not just that one wheel-
both, or maybe all 4.

With the drums off the front, it's time to inspect the
wheel bearings. If the races are worn, replace along with
the seals.

In the rear, there are oil seals which will need replacement
when the drums are off.

While it's possible to learn all the skills involved here
from the Idiot book (or a video), color me skeptical.

Honest, I'm not trying to rain on your parade;
you have a potentially serious problem and need to address
it with care.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

P.S. There is a highly technical explanation of "pulling to the left"
he http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/pulls.gif

Thanks for the response Speedy Jim. I guess it is time for the car to
undergo a mechanical restoration (engine in addition to the brake system).
I think what I will do is simply take as many photos as I can of the
dissassembly process, so that I can follow them for re-assembly. - DB

"DB" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for the response Speedy Jim. I guess it is time for the car to
> undergo a mechanical restoration (engine in addition to the brake system).
> I think what I will do is simply take as many photos as I can of the
> dissassembly process, so that I can follow them for re-assembly. - DB
>
>
Good rule of thumb is to only take apart one side of the brakes at a time so
you can look at the other side to see how it goes back together. Anytime I
get a new VW the first thing I check is the brakes and they are usually
toast!!

Mac

>From: "Mac"
>
>"DB" > wrote in message
...
>> Thanks for the response Speedy Jim. I guess it is time for the car to
>> undergo a mechanical restoration (engine in addition to the brake system).
>> I think what I will do is simply take as many photos as I can of the
>> dissassembly process, so that I can follow them for re-assembly. - DB
>>
>>
>Good rule of thumb is to only take apart one side of the brakes at a time so
>you can look at the other side to see how it goes back together. Anytime I
>get a new VW the first thing I check is the brakes and they are usually
>toast!!

Yeah that is the best way to do it.
I just worked on a 71 Beetle and the brake cable levers/arms were on the wrong
sides of the vehicle. This is the first time that I have seen this but lately
I seem to find more and more weird stuff lately. So examine parts well and
make sure things make sense!

later,
dave
Reminder........
Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way,
when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their
shoes. Frieda Norris

And on those rear seals you'll find that the replacement kit comes
with a chintzy metal washer that's about 1/2th the thickness of the
original. Throw it away, keep your old ones if they're good (probably
not) or find new ones that are the proper thickness. These ****ty
thin ones deform as soon as you put the proper torque on the rears and
then put no pressure on the inner o-ring. Not the end of the world
but still bad news and the cause of a weapy seal. And the reason
you'll go back in a few months to replace your wet shoes and the seal
(again). Good luck and have fun.

-Chip (who still is looking for a source for oe thickness washers.)

'56 ghia, '66 beetle

p.s. Speedy, I met a dude in a yellow (or was it orange?) westy
(around a '70/'71) at a home Notre Dame football game who mentioned
his "old guru" from Cleveland who worked on his bus. I think you had
de-pancaked it recently. Asked him if the name was Speedy Jim, and
what do you know, it was. Small world, and I even got to hear the
story behind the name.

p.p.s He didn't really call you old.



Speedy Jim > wrote in message >...
> DB wrote:
> >
> > I've been losing brake fluid for the past season in my stock 56 oval &
> > finally found the source (well, it really revealed itself). My right front
> > wheel cylinder is now leaking pretty seriously. I've looked at Bentley for
> > "how to" but reading the lack of detail leaves me a little nervous
> > (admittedly have not yet gotten around to Idiot Guide). 1. Would the
> > Bug-Me video offer sufficient how-to even though it deals with later model
> > beetle brakes to increase my comfort level? 2. It would seem to me that I
> > would want to at least replace both front wheel cylinders (or should I only
> > do the right front). Finally, could this have been the source of my car
> > dipping and diving to the left when braking hard (if there is such a thing
> > in an oval) everything else in the car checked out ok (brake adjustment, no
> > binding of the hoses, kingpins replaced, etc).
> >
> > Thanks. DB
>
> Sheeesh! Only a half century lifespan on wheel cylinders?
> You'd think VW could have done better than that. (Just kidding.)
>
> One leaking wheel cyl is a warning. Heed it. Yes, this is almost
> certainly the cause of diving to left.
>
> Plan on replacing all 4 wheel cylinders PLUS the master cylinder,
> plus the 4 brake hoses. And inspect all the steel lines for rust,
> especially where the line passes under the pedal cluster.
>
> The wheel with the leaker now has a drum which is fluid-soaked;
> that will either have to be cleaned or replaced. Whether to replace
> will depend upon the wear the drum measures.
>
> AND the shoes are soaked; replace. Not just that one wheel-
> both, or maybe all 4.
>
> With the drums off the front, it's time to inspect the
> wheel bearings. If the races are worn, replace along with
> the seals.
>
> In the rear, there are oil seals which will need replacement
> when the drums are off.
>
> While it's possible to learn all the skills involved here
> from the Idiot book (or a video), color me skeptical.
>
> Honest, I'm not trying to rain on your parade;
> you have a potentially serious problem and need to address
> it with care.
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> P.S. There is a highly technical explanation of "pulling to the left"
> he http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/pulls.gif