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73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running??



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 11th 08, 02:24 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
Tracy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 28
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running??

Hi All, I pulled my engine yesterday to replace the main seal, got
everything put back together and put the engine back in today. After getting
everything tightened up I started it up and it immediately died. I started
it again and took a short trip around the block and it feels like something
is dragging. Unless I'm giving it gas the car lurches and the RPMs drop way
faster than they used to...
I did have a hard time getting the engine back in this time in fact I was
just about to pull it all the way back out when it finally went all the way
in.

I replaced the seal and the O ring, made sure the three shims were back in
place, cleaned and lubed the gland nut, re installed the flywheel in the
same position it was before and torqued the gland to 253ft lbs. There was a
lot of oil on the flywheel and pressure plate and little bit on the cluch
disk I cleaned everything down as well as I could with some mineral spirits
and did a final wipe down with acetone before I put the clutch back in. I
used a clutch alignment tool to re install the clutch and torqued the bolts
(in the proper sequence) to 18 ft lbs.

I'm racking my brain trying to think of something I did wrong, any help
would be appriciated.


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  #2  
Old August 11th 08, 02:40 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
Speedy Jim[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 259
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running??

Tracy wrote:
> Hi All, I pulled my engine yesterday to replace the main seal, got
> everything put back together and put the engine back in today. After getting
> everything tightened up I started it up and it immediately died. I started
> it again and took a short trip around the block and it feels like something
> is dragging. Unless I'm giving it gas the car lurches and the RPMs drop way
> faster than they used to...
> I did have a hard time getting the engine back in this time in fact I was
> just about to pull it all the way back out when it finally went all the way
> in.
>
> I replaced the seal and the O ring, made sure the three shims were back in
> place, cleaned and lubed the gland nut, re installed the flywheel in the
> same position it was before and torqued the gland to 253ft lbs. There was a
> lot of oil on the flywheel and pressure plate and little bit on the cluch
> disk I cleaned everything down as well as I could with some mineral spirits
> and did a final wipe down with acetone before I put the clutch back in. I
> used a clutch alignment tool to re install the clutch and torqued the bolts
> (in the proper sequence) to 18 ft lbs.
>
> I'm racking my brain trying to think of something I did wrong, any help
> would be appriciated.
>
>


See if you can turn the engine by hand (grab the gen pulley).

Is the carb idle cutoff wired correctly (clicks when key is on)?

Distrib hose(s) connected and not leaking?

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

  #3  
Old August 11th 08, 03:08 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
Tracy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 28
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running??


"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
...
> Tracy wrote:
>> Hi All, I pulled my engine yesterday to replace the main seal, got
>> everything put back together and put the engine back in today. After
>> getting everything tightened up I started it up and it immediately died.
>> I started it again and took a short trip around the block and it feels
>> like something is dragging. Unless I'm giving it gas the car lurches and
>> the RPMs drop way faster than they used to...
>> I did have a hard time getting the engine back in this time in fact I was
>> just about to pull it all the way back out when it finally went all the
>> way in.
>>
>> I replaced the seal and the O ring, made sure the three shims were back
>> in place, cleaned and lubed the gland nut, re installed the flywheel in
>> the same position it was before and torqued the gland to 253ft lbs.
>> There was a lot of oil on the flywheel and pressure plate and little bit
>> on the cluch disk I cleaned everything down as well as I could with some
>> mineral spirits and did a final wipe down with acetone before I put the
>> clutch back in. I used a clutch alignment tool to re install the clutch
>> and torqued the bolts (in the proper sequence) to 18 ft lbs.
>>
>> I'm racking my brain trying to think of something I did wrong, any help
>> would be appriciated.

>
> See if you can turn the engine by hand (grab the gen pulley).
>
> Is the carb idle cutoff wired correctly (clicks when key is on)?
>
> Distrib hose(s) connected and not leaking?
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/


Hi Speedy, congrats on the "speedy" recovery, welcome back.

I can turn it by hand. (I just tried and turned it a full 360) I'm running
duel webber 34, there is no electrical connection on the carbs and I have a
centrifugal advance dristributor.



  #4  
Old August 11th 08, 03:44 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
Speedy Jim[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 259
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running??

Tracy wrote:

> "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Tracy wrote:
>>
>>>Hi All, I pulled my engine yesterday to replace the main seal, got
>>>everything put back together and put the engine back in today. After
>>>getting everything tightened up I started it up and it immediately died.
>>>I started it again and took a short trip around the block and it feels
>>>like something is dragging. Unless I'm giving it gas the car lurches and
>>>the RPMs drop way faster than they used to...
>>>I did have a hard time getting the engine back in this time in fact I was
>>>just about to pull it all the way back out when it finally went all the
>>>way in.
>>>
>>>I replaced the seal and the O ring, made sure the three shims were back
>>>in place, cleaned and lubed the gland nut, re installed the flywheel in
>>>the same position it was before and torqued the gland to 253ft lbs.
>>>There was a lot of oil on the flywheel and pressure plate and little bit
>>>on the cluch disk I cleaned everything down as well as I could with some
>>>mineral spirits and did a final wipe down with acetone before I put the
>>>clutch back in. I used a clutch alignment tool to re install the clutch
>>>and torqued the bolts (in the proper sequence) to 18 ft lbs.
>>>
>>>I'm racking my brain trying to think of something I did wrong, any help
>>>would be appriciated.

>>
>> See if you can turn the engine by hand (grab the gen pulley).
>>
>> Is the carb idle cutoff wired correctly (clicks when key is on)?
>>
>> Distrib hose(s) connected and not leaking?
>>
>> Speedy Jim
>>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

>
>
> Hi Speedy, congrats on the "speedy" recovery, welcome back.
>
> I can turn it by hand. (I just tried and turned it a full 360) I'm running
> duel webber 34, there is no electrical connection on the carbs and I have a
> centrifugal advance dristributor.
>
>
>

See if you can get more clues.

Will it get to top speed as it used to?

Any evidence of overheating?

Could it be one carb at fault? Were the carbs removed
or disturbed during the engine pull?

  #5  
Old August 11th 08, 04:21 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
Tracy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 28
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running??


"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
news
> Tracy wrote:
>
>> "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>Tracy wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi All, I pulled my engine yesterday to replace the main seal, got
>>>>everything put back together and put the engine back in today. After
>>>>getting everything tightened up I started it up and it immediately died.
>>>>I started it again and took a short trip around the block and it feels
>>>>like something is dragging. Unless I'm giving it gas the car lurches and
>>>>the RPMs drop way faster than they used to...
>>>>I did have a hard time getting the engine back in this time in fact I
>>>>was just about to pull it all the way back out when it finally went all
>>>>the way in.
>>>>
>>>>I replaced the seal and the O ring, made sure the three shims were back
>>>>in place, cleaned and lubed the gland nut, re installed the flywheel in
>>>>the same position it was before and torqued the gland to 253ft lbs.
>>>>There was a lot of oil on the flywheel and pressure plate and little bit
>>>>on the cluch disk I cleaned everything down as well as I could with some
>>>>mineral spirits and did a final wipe down with acetone before I put the
>>>>clutch back in. I used a clutch alignment tool to re install the clutch
>>>>and torqued the bolts (in the proper sequence) to 18 ft lbs.
>>>>
>>>>I'm racking my brain trying to think of something I did wrong, any help
>>>>would be appriciated.
>>>
>>> See if you can turn the engine by hand (grab the gen pulley).
>>>
>>> Is the carb idle cutoff wired correctly (clicks when key is on)?
>>>
>>> Distrib hose(s) connected and not leaking?
>>>
>>> Speedy Jim
>>>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

>>
>>
>> Hi Speedy, congrats on the "speedy" recovery, welcome back.
>>
>> I can turn it by hand. (I just tried and turned it a full 360) I'm
>> running duel webber 34, there is no electrical connection on the carbs
>> and I have a centrifugal advance dristributor.
>>
>>
>>

> See if you can get more clues.
>
> Will it get to top speed as it used to?
>
> Any evidence of overheating?
>
> Could it be one carb at fault? Were the carbs removed
> or disturbed during the engine pull?
>


I did pull them for the removal, but I was very careful not to change any of
the settings. My thought when the car first stalled was that I need to go
through the linkage and adjust/sync them again (just did all that two
weekends ago, it *was* running perfectly) I didn't try to get to top speed
as I wasnt sure what was wrong. I guess I'll go through the carbs again ASA
I get the time...

At least it's not leaking oil any more...


  #6  
Old August 11th 08, 12:46 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
One out of many Daves[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running?? dual webers

vacuum leaks at carb/manifold gasket! did you use new gaskets?
spray a little carb cleaner at gaskets to see if idle changes

nice to see Speedy back! ;-)
--
later,
(One out of many daves)

"Tracy" <pepsifreek at hotmail.com> wrote

snip

>>>

>> See if you can get more clues.
>>
>> Will it get to top speed as it used to?
>>
>> Any evidence of overheating?
>>
>> Could it be one carb at fault? Were the carbs removed
>> or disturbed during the engine pull?
>>

>
> I did pull them for the removal, but I was very careful not to change any
> of the settings. My thought when the car first stalled was that I need to
> go through the linkage and adjust/sync them again (just did all that two
> weekends ago, it *was* running perfectly) I didn't try to get to top
> speed as I wasnt sure what was wrong. I guess I'll go through the carbs
> again ASA I get the time...
>
> At least it's not leaking oil any more...
>



  #7  
Old August 11th 08, 02:16 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
Tracy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 28
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running?? dual webers

"One out of many Daves" > wrote in message
...
> vacuum leaks at carb/manifold gasket! did you use new gaskets?
> spray a little carb cleaner at gaskets to see if idle changes
>
> nice to see Speedy back! ;-)
> --
> later,
> (One out of many daves)
>
> "Tracy" <pepsifreek at hotmail.com> wrote
>
> snip
>
>>>>
>>> See if you can get more clues.
>>>
>>> Will it get to top speed as it used to?
>>>
>>> Any evidence of overheating?
>>>
>>> Could it be one carb at fault? Were the carbs removed
>>> or disturbed during the engine pull?
>>>

>>
>> I did pull them for the removal, but I was very careful not to change any
>> of the settings. My thought when the car first stalled was that I need to
>> go through the linkage and adjust/sync them again (just did all that two
>> weekends ago, it *was* running perfectly) I didn't try to get to top
>> speed as I wasnt sure what was wrong. I guess I'll go through the carbs
>> again ASA I get the time...
>>
>> At least it's not leaking oil any more...
>>

>
>


Ok, I just went throught the linkage and did a base line adjustment on the
carbs. Bottom line I had to increase the mix by 1 1/4 turn and the speed by
1 turn more than the adjustment I did two weeks ago to get it to idle. (600
cold and 900 warm) I went for a 5 mile test drive, it didn't overheat and it
seems to be running at the same performance levels.

I used a "double lip" seal
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....ode=C21%2D1638, sounds
unlikely but could I be noticing the higher drag of the new seal? BTW, I did
lube it with motor oil before I installed the flywheel.

I did use the same intake seals... In fact, I've removed the carbs several
times without changing them <blushing> I'm a bad boy, I never remember to
order new ones... I'll check out your carbourator cleaner recomendation.

Tracy


  #8  
Old August 12th 08, 04:06 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
dave AKA vwdoc1[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,024
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running?? dual webers

richening up the mixture could compensate for a slight vacuum leak at the
carb base or intake manifold gasket.

glad you got it up and running well again. ;-)

But you don't want it running too lean at WOT caused by a slight vacuum
leak! 8^)

Order a few new gaskets!!!
--
later,
(One out of many daves)

"Tracy" <pepsifreek at hotmail.com>

snip

> Ok, I just went throught the linkage and did a base line adjustment on the
> carbs. Bottom line I had to increase the mix by 1 1/4 turn and the speed
> by 1 turn more than the adjustment I did two weeks ago to get it to idle.
> (600 cold and 900 warm) I went for a 5 mile test drive, it didn't overheat
> and it seems to be running at the same performance levels.
>
> I used a "double lip" seal
> http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....ode=C21%2D1638, sounds
> unlikely but could I be noticing the higher drag of the new seal? BTW, I
> did lube it with motor oil before I installed the flywheel.
>
> I did use the same intake seals... In fact, I've removed the carbs several
> times without changing them <blushing> I'm a bad boy, I never remember to
> order new ones... I'll check out your carbourator cleaner recomendation.
>
> Tracy
>



  #9  
Old August 12th 08, 03:12 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled
Tracy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 28
Default 73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running?? dual webers


"dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote in message
...
> richening up the mixture could compensate for a slight vacuum leak at the
> carb base or intake manifold gasket.
>
> glad you got it up and running well again. ;-)
>
> But you don't want it running too lean at WOT caused by a slight vacuum
> leak! 8^)
>
> Order a few new gaskets!!!
> --
> later,
> (One out of many daves)
>
> "Tracy" <pepsifreek at hotmail.com>
>
> snip
>
>> Ok, I just went throught the linkage and did a base line adjustment on
>> the carbs. Bottom line I had to increase the mix by 1 1/4 turn and the
>> speed by 1 turn more than the adjustment I did two weeks ago to get it to
>> idle. (600 cold and 900 warm) I went for a 5 mile test drive, it didn't
>> overheat and it seems to be running at the same performance levels.
>>
>> I used a "double lip" seal
>> http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....ode=C21%2D1638, sounds
>> unlikely but could I be noticing the higher drag of the new seal? BTW, I
>> did lube it with motor oil before I installed the flywheel.
>>
>> I did use the same intake seals... In fact, I've removed the carbs
>> several times without changing them <blushing> I'm a bad boy, I never
>> remember to order new ones... I'll check out your carbourator cleaner
>> recomendation.
>>
>> Tracy
>>

>
>


Thanks for your help guys, will order (several sets of) intake gaskets today
to see if that makes a difference.


 




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