289 Street Beast Build

Hi, I just got a '67 289 2bbl and I want to build it up to be a
powerfull street racer, I don't intend to race it on the strip so I do
still want it to be streetable (somewhat of a smooth idle, good low end
torque). I have already decided on the eldebrock performer rpm air gap,
try-y headers, and I want to stroke it to 331. What will I need in the
way of a carb (600 cfm eldebrock, more or less?), dual exhaust (2 1/4,
or 2 1/2), cam, heads (I was thinking 185 afm, performer, or what?),
stroker kit, manual transmission (T5?), and rear end ratio. Also,
could I get everything else before stroking it and then when i'm ready
make that the last thing I do, becuase of the money. Any help would be
greatly appreciated becuase there are just too many choices. Thanks.

"Will" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hi, I just got a '67 289 2bbl and I want to build it up to be a
> powerfull street racer, I don't intend to race it on the strip so I do
> still want it to be streetable (somewhat of a smooth idle, good low end
> torque). I have already decided on the eldebrock performer rpm air gap,
> try-y headers, and I want to stroke it to 331. What will I need in the
> way of a carb (600 cfm eldebrock, more or less?), dual exhaust (2 1/4,
> or 2 1/2), cam, heads (I was thinking 185 afm, performer, or what?),
> stroker kit, manual transmission (T5?), and rear end ratio. Also,
> could I get everything else before stroking it and then when i'm ready
> make that the last thing I do, becuase of the money. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated becuase there are just too many choices. Thanks.
>
You'll probally get a hundred responses all different.
First question why keep the 289? A late model 5.0 wil drop right in. It is a
stronger set up tostart especailly if your gonna stroke it. Converting the
67 to a mass air e.f.i. set up is fairly common and inexpensive these days.
but on to your questions
If you stay with the 289 stroke it last.
Tri-y headers are a good choice becuase of fitment issues with other systems
on the car(power steering and clutch/trans linkages).
600 cfm on the edlebrock is a good place to start most folks over carb the
small block.
2.25 exhaust is plenty.
There are several good cams out there now for carb cars, decent lift and
overlap, but much tighter center lines so idle is good, especailly if couple
with roller rockers
Heads, again if you go that expense think hard of about starting with a 5.0.
other wise a decent valve job and open up the ports both intake and exhaust.
if you stay with a manual, the T-5 conversvion is again relativley simple
and cheap becuase its been done so often, tons of aftermarket parts and
kits. Consider the T-56 lots of info on the internet as many people are
already doing this swap to get the extra gear.
Rear gear: if your running the factory 8" that came in the car, 3:55 is
optimal for the small block on the street, if your running mostly the strip,
gear ratios are based on your et's your want to hit top speed just before
the end of the 1/4. If you can swing it go to "currie" or one of the other
big rear guys and get a 9" with stronger axles the 28 spline notched axles
that are stock are definetly the weak link when you start hitting the higher
HP numbers. The 31 or 35 spline continious tapers are much stronger with the
9" set up.
Finally think hard about the 5.0 set up around here a decent late model can
be had for around $3k, thats running and driving, you can get what you need
at the local pick and pull for even less.

walt peifer wrote:

> "Will" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>
>>Hi, I just got a '67 289 2bbl and I want to build it up to be a
>>powerfull street racer, I don't intend to race it on the strip so I do
>>still want it to be streetable (somewhat of a smooth idle, good low end
>>torque). I have already decided on the eldebrock performer rpm air gap,
>>try-y headers, and I want to stroke it to 331. What will I need in the
>>way of a carb (600 cfm eldebrock, more or less?), dual exhaust (2 1/4,
>>or 2 1/2), cam, heads (I was thinking 185 afm, performer, or what?),
>>stroker kit, manual transmission (T5?), and rear end ratio. Also,
>>could I get everything else before stroking it and then when i'm ready
>>make that the last thing I do, becuase of the money. Any help would be
>>greatly appreciated becuase there are just too many choices. Thanks.
>>
>
> You'll probally get a hundred responses all different.
> First question why keep the 289?

I agree. I think trying to stick with stock 289 block as a
high performance base will turn out to be a money pit.
First off, rebuilding an old engine is expensive. Unless you
got a good friend in the machine shop, all that machine work will
eat you alive. Then, you have to source all the parts at retail
prices.
Sit down and actually come up with aparts list and machine
shop list for a screamin high revving 289/331. Then take a look
at crate motors. For a good street engine, Ford sells a 345hp
302 for $4,500. Not a bad deal. Take a look at Coast High
Performance.

--
..boB
Arrived: 2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.

..boB wrote:
> walt peifer wrote:

> > You'll probally get a hundred responses all different.
> > First question why keep the 289?
>
> I agree. I think trying to stick with stock 289 block as a
> high performance base will turn out to be a money pit.


Thanks for all the info. I had originally planned to go with the 289
because I had heard it to be so reliable and I didn't want to spend the
money for a new block, but hearing this I will deffinatley reconsider.