8.8 disassembly

If one only needed to change one singe alxe, what would be the
cheapest easiest procedure for swapping them?

My son decided to steal my wifes car, slamming into something and
shattering the rim, rotor, and bending the rim-mounting flange. I have
ordered the correct axle but have never been inside of an 8.8 before,
and seeing as I have a week before the axle arrives just thought I'd
bone up on some information from the group...

Wm

There is only one procedure for swapping out a drive axle on these.....

Cheap ain't.....

If it were mine, I'd take the opportunity to replace both axle seals....

If it were mine, I'd invest in a manual rather than ask for anecdotal info
from an absolute stranger before I exhausted more conventional means of
knowledge (this means it looks like someone is lazy).

If it were mine, my boy would know better than to steal anything...


"William" > wrote in message
news
>
> If one only needed to change one singe alxe, what would be the
> cheapest easiest procedure for swapping them?
>
> My son decided to steal my wifes car, slamming into something and
> shattering the rim, rotor, and bending the rim-mounting flange. I have
> ordered the correct axle but have never been inside of an 8.8 before,
> and seeing as I have a week before the axle arrives just thought I'd
> bone up on some information from the group...
>
> Wm

> "William" > wrote in message
> news
> >
> > If one only needed to change one singe alxe, what would be the
> > cheapest easiest procedure for swapping them?
> >
> > My son decided to steal my wifes car, slamming into something and
> > shattering the rim, rotor, and bending the rim-mounting flange. I have
> > ordered the correct axle but have never been inside of an 8.8 before,
> > and seeing as I have a week before the axle arrives just thought I'd
> > bone up on some information from the group...
> >
> > Wm
>

Go to your local library and get a manual. It's not hard to change an axle,
but pictures will make it easier to understand.

Al

On Sat, 27 May 2006 02:00:55 GMT, "Jim Warman"
> wrote:

>There is only one procedure for swapping out a drive axle on these.....
>
>Cheap ain't.....
>
>If it were mine, I'd take the opportunity to replace both axle seals....
>
>If it were mine, I'd invest in a manual rather than ask for anecdotal info
>from an absolute stranger before I exhausted more conventional means of
>knowledge (this means it looks like someone is lazy).

I thought I would ask for 'anecdotal info' only as a means as for
tips, tricks, and maybe a well worn shortcut, not as an DYI for rocket
science and all things gear-driven.

Calling me lazy adds nothing, but thanks for the insult. Must be nice
to be so bold and brazen towards 'an absolute stranger'

>If it were mine, my boy would know better than to steal anything...

Trying to impress your will upon others is idiotic. Its called
guidance, and you will either learn to use it or watch it shrugged off
the shoulders of those not quickened to use it.

William > wrote:

>
>

Sorry, Jim may be a cynic.. as a professional shop guy he ALSO has to put
up with blanket aspersions cast on his trade, which colors his responses.
Not to mention, some asking advice seem to want to receive step-step
instructions rather than spending a few bucks for even a general
reference book, like Haynes.

THAT SAID, if you reread what you and he wrote, I think you'll find it
was you over-reacting as much as you think he did.

Inside, the procedure is pretty straightforward... once you get to the
gear carrier:
Remove lock bolt, remove pin, push axle in, remove keeper clip.

When you see it, you understand why Warman said replace other axle seal
while you are at it.

The ONLY trick that may help involves refilling lube, which is sort of
awkward for the driveway mech.

You might consider measuring lube, based on mfr capacity specs, into a
sturdy sealable plastic bottle with cap modified to pass two pieces of
tubing, first from bottom of bottle, long enough to easily reach filler
hole.

The second just into bottle; both sealed around cap holes. Then apply a
low pressure air, 2-3 lbs sq in, or gas source to push lube up into
carrier.

--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

Backyard Mechanic > wrote:

> William > wrote:
>
>

And if it's limited slip, dont forget the friction modifier or you'll get
unpleasant noises or maybe an unpleasant surprise when turning corner in
the wet.


--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

On Sat, 27 May 2006 13:15:29 GMT, Backyard Mechanic
> wrote:

He may or may not be a cynic, but he doesn't have to lead by hurling
insults not only against me but my son as well. It's not only rude
it's reprehensible. With THAT said:

>The ONLY trick that may help involves refilling lube, which is sort of
>awkward for the driveway mech.
>
>You might consider measuring lube, based on mfr capacity specs, into a
>sturdy sealable plastic bottle with cap modified to pass two pieces of
>tubing, first from bottom of bottle, long enough to easily reach filler
>hole.
>
>The second just into bottle; both sealed around cap holes. Then apply a
>low pressure air, 2-3 lbs sq in, or gas source to push lube up into
>carrier.

Thanks for the tip! Which was, after all, the reason I posted and yes,
I won't forget the traction modifier. I've a good plastic, flat-bottom
jug to do this with, and a bit of epoxy.

Wm

William > wrote:

> On Sat, 27 May 2006 13:15:29 GMT, Backyard Mechanic
> > wrote:
>
> He may or may not be a cynic, but he doesn't have to lead by hurling
> insults not only against me but my son as well. It's not only rude
> it's reprehensible. With THAT said:
>
>>The ONLY trick that may help involves refilling lube, which is sort of
>>awkward for the driveway mech.
>>
>>You might consider measuring lube, based on mfr capacity specs, into a
>>sturdy sealable plastic bottle with cap modified to pass two pieces of
>>tubing, first from bottom of bottle, long enough to easily reach filler
>>hole.
>>
>>The second just into bottle; both sealed around cap holes. Then apply
a
>>low pressure air, 2-3 lbs sq in, or gas source to push lube up into
>>carrier.
>
> Thanks for the tip! Which was, after all, the reason I posted and yes,
> I won't forget the traction modifier. I've a good plastic, flat-bottom
> jug to do this with, and a bit of epoxy.
>
> Wm
>

If you have a hand brake bleed pump (vac/press) that's the perfect
pressure source

Latex adhesive caulk (inside cap) will work better than epoxy, flexible,
grabs vinyl/rubber tubing.

allow a day cure

--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

Jim Warman wrote:
> There is only one procedure for swapping out a drive axle on these.....
>
> Cheap ain't.....
>
> If it were mine, I'd take the opportunity to replace both axle seals....
>
> If it were mine, I'd invest in a manual rather than ask for anecdotal info
> from an absolute stranger before I exhausted more conventional means of
> knowledge (this means it looks like someone is lazy).
>
> If it were mine, my boy would know better than to steal anything...
>


Has the Hurc tard rubbed off on you lately?


--
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