Ignition Switch Burned/Sparks

...

Speedy Jim (and others)

=== Voltage Regulator ===

1) On a 1972 Super Beetle (I don't think it matters which
car, really), what would you guess are the various causes for
the voltage regulator to be quiet at 800 rpm, then above
1200 rpm, and up, it is "click..click..click..click.." It
stops if the lights are on, or the brake lights, (or any load).

2) Not sure if this is always a bad regulator, or worn out
brushes in the generator, or bad ground (although I have
scraped and scraped and cleaned and cleaned all grounds).
Voltage starts around 11.9 volts at startup, then goes to a
maximum of 12.8 to 13.2 volts.

=== Ignition Switch ===

3) When the electric contacts in the ignition switch burned,
(1971 Super Beetle) and left the ignition on all the time,
rather than search out a new ignition switch, I asked the
neighbouring mechanic to use 2 toggle switches.

4) The "ignition on" toggle, sends battery (terminal 30, red
wire) to terminal/wire 15 (coil/black) and X (accessory, I
think, black/yellow wire), and to brown/blue wire (not sure if
this is S terminal)

5) The "start" toggle, sends battery (terminal 30) to
terminal/wire 50 to crank the starter.

6) With ignition on, right turn signal keeps blowing
fuse # 12.

7) 4-way flasher blows fuse # 8.

Speedy Jim (and others), any idea which wire is wrong. My
wild suspicion is that brown/blue wire is part of the problem.
But I am not the expert that you guys are.

Ross Virgin
Toronto, Canada

rvirgin22 wrote:
> ..
>
> Speedy Jim (and others)
>
> === Voltage Regulator ===
>
> 1) On a 1972 Super Beetle (I don't think it matters which
> car, really), what would you guess are the various causes for
> the voltage regulator to be quiet at 800 rpm, then above
> 1200 rpm, and up, it is "click..click..click..click.." It
> stops if the lights are on, or the brake lights, (or any load).
>
> 2) Not sure if this is always a bad regulator, or worn out
> brushes in the generator, or bad ground (although I have
> scraped and scraped and cleaned and cleaned all grounds).
> Voltage starts around 11.9 volts at startup, then goes to a
> maximum of 12.8 to 13.2 volts.
>
> === Ignition Switch ===
>
> 3) When the electric contacts in the ignition switch burned,
> (1971 Super Beetle) and left the ignition on all the time,
> rather than search out a new ignition switch, I asked the
> neighbouring mechanic to use 2 toggle switches.
>
> 4) The "ignition on" toggle, sends battery (terminal 30, red
> wire) to terminal/wire 15 (coil/black) and X (accessory, I
> think, black/yellow wire), and to brown/blue wire (not sure if
> this is S terminal)
>
> 5) The "start" toggle, sends battery (terminal 30) to
> terminal/wire 50 to crank the starter.
>
> 6) With ignition on, right turn signal keeps blowing
> fuse # 12.
>
> 7) 4-way flasher blows fuse # 8.
>
> Speedy Jim (and others), any idea which wire is wrong. My
> wild suspicion is that brown/blue wire is part of the problem.
> But I am not the expert that you guys are.
>
> Ross Virgin
> Toronto, Canada
>

The regulator is trying to do its job. It does that by
making and breaking the Field circuit (thru resistors)
of the generator. I doubt there is anything wrong, though
the charging voltage is a bit low. Does the battery ever
appear to be undercharged? If not, leave well enough...

Yes, "X" is accessory, in this case it's for Headlights and wipers.

Brw/Blu was only used for the door open buzzer. Just disconnect it and
tape up.

I'm just now finishing a new page about the flashers and Hazards.
This simplified diagram shows your setup:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/SCHEM/Flash7.gif

The same flasher is used for Turn and Hazards, but each function
has a separate fuse. I suspect that there is a short in the
Blk/Grn wire to the Right signal(s). That could be either front or
rear lights, so try to isolate the one causing it. In the trunk area,
look for the Blk/Grn wires near the speedo. There should be a
4-position plastic splice block you can pull wires out of to
disable front or rear.

Look for places where the wire might have gotten crushed or even
swapped with the Brw wire if work has been done that might affect it.

The internal wiring of the front light is he
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/SCHEM/turn_sig.jpg
and the rear:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/tail1.gif

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On Feb 8, 4:52*pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> rvirgin22 wrote:
> > ..
>
> > Speedy Jim (and others)
>
> > === Voltage Regulator ===
>
> > 1) *On a 1972 Super Beetle (I don't think it matters which
> > car, really), what would you guess are the various causes for
> > the voltage regulator to be quiet at 800 rpm, then above
> > 1200 rpm, and up, it is "click..click..click..click.." *It
> > stops if the lights are on, or the brake lights, (or any load).
>
> > 2) *Not sure if this is always a bad regulator, or worn out
> > brushes in the generator, or bad ground (although I have
> > scraped and scraped and cleaned and cleaned all grounds).
> > Voltage starts around 11.9 volts at startup, then goes to a
> > maximum of 12.8 to 13.2 volts.
>
> > === Ignition Switch ===
>
> > 3) *When the electric contacts in the ignition switch burned,
> > (1971 Super Beetle) and left the ignition on all the time,
> > rather than search out a new ignition switch, I asked the
> > neighbouring mechanic to use 2 toggle switches.
>
> > 4) *The "ignition on" toggle, sends battery (terminal 30, red
> > wire) to terminal/wire 15 (coil/black) and X (accessory, I
> > think, black/yellow wire), and to brown/blue wire (not sure if
> > this is S terminal)
>
> > 5) *The "start" toggle, sends battery (terminal 30) to
> > terminal/wire 50 to crank the starter.
>
> > 6) *With ignition on, right turn signal keeps blowing
> > fuse # 12.
>
> > 7) *4-way flasher blows fuse # 8.
>
> > Speedy Jim (and others), any idea which wire is wrong. My
> > wild suspicion is that brown/blue wire is part of the problem.
> > But I am not the expert that you guys are.
>
> > * * *Ross Virgin
> > * * *Toronto, Canada
>
> The regulator is trying to do its job. *It does that by
> making and breaking the Field circuit (thru resistors)
> of the generator. *I doubt there is anything wrong, though
> the charging voltage is a bit low. *Does the battery ever
> appear to be undercharged? *If not, leave well enough...
>
> Yes, "X" is accessory, in this case it's for Headlights and wipers.
>
> Brw/Blu was only used for the door open buzzer. *Just disconnect it and
> tape up.
>
> I'm just now finishing a new page about the flashers and Hazards.
> This simplified diagram shows your setup:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/SCHEM/Flash7.gif
>
> The same flasher is used for Turn and Hazards, but each function
> has a separate fuse. *I suspect that there is a short in the
> Blk/Grn wire to the Right signal(s). *That could be either front or
> rear lights, so try to isolate the one causing it. *In the trunk area,
> look for the Blk/Grn wires near the speedo. *There should be a
> 4-position plastic splice block you can pull wires out of to
> disable front or rear.
>
> Look for places where the wire might have gotten crushed or even
> swapped with the Brw wire if work has been done that might affect it.
>
> The internal wiring of the front light is hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/SCHEM/turn_sig.jpg
> and the rear:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/tail1.gif
>
> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
>
...
...
Jim

1) Much appreciate all your detail.

2) Your diagrams amaze me. I have wondered how you
draw them..... presumably with some graphics program.

3) I will definitely check the green/black wires going to
the right side bulbs.

4) Regarding the voltage regulator, yes, I understand it
does its job through on/off/on/off/on/off switching of
the generator field. Of all 7 of my Beetles, I normally
do not hear the "clicking" of the solenoids this loudly,
nor them turning on/off/on/off/on every half-second or
so. Not even in this application (1972 Super Beetle,
which I have owned the full 36 years, I have never heard
the regulator clicking so much. Therefore, I was
concerned about burning out the contacts with so
frequent cycling.

5) With the regulator, I might swap in a new one, just
for a quick mile or two, to see if a) the charge voltage
goes back up to the normal 13.4 to 14.5 and b) to see
if the new one does the click... click... click... click...

6) Back to the 1971 Super Beetle, I love all the wiring
diagrams you have on your web site. They are
extremely clear, easy to read.

7) Have you ever scanned the full wiring diagrams
for the various cars from the Bentley manuals, or
other VW manuals, so they can be colour printed
into the future as the manuals become fewer... and
fewer .... and fewer to be found?

Again, thanks for all your excellent comments.

Ross Virgin
Toronto, Canada
...
...
...
...
...

rvirgin22 wrote:
> On Feb 8, 4:52 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>> rvirgin22 wrote:
>>> ..
>>> Speedy Jim (and others)
>>> === Voltage Regulator ===
>>> 1) On a 1972 Super Beetle (I don't think it matters which
>>> car, really), what would you guess are the various causes for
>>> the voltage regulator to be quiet at 800 rpm, then above
>>> 1200 rpm, and up, it is "click..click..click..click.." It
>>> stops if the lights are on, or the brake lights, (or any load).
>>> 2) Not sure if this is always a bad regulator, or worn out
>>> brushes in the generator, or bad ground (although I have
>>> scraped and scraped and cleaned and cleaned all grounds).
>>> Voltage starts around 11.9 volts at startup, then goes to a
>>> maximum of 12.8 to 13.2 volts.
>>> === Ignition Switch ===
>>> 3) When the electric contacts in the ignition switch burned,
>>> (1971 Super Beetle) and left the ignition on all the time,
>>> rather than search out a new ignition switch, I asked the
>>> neighbouring mechanic to use 2 toggle switches.
>>> 4) The "ignition on" toggle, sends battery (terminal 30, red
>>> wire) to terminal/wire 15 (coil/black) and X (accessory, I
>>> think, black/yellow wire), and to brown/blue wire (not sure if
>>> this is S terminal)
>>> 5) The "start" toggle, sends battery (terminal 30) to
>>> terminal/wire 50 to crank the starter.
>>> 6) With ignition on, right turn signal keeps blowing
>>> fuse # 12.
>>> 7) 4-way flasher blows fuse # 8.
>>> Speedy Jim (and others), any idea which wire is wrong. My
>>> wild suspicion is that brown/blue wire is part of the problem.
>>> But I am not the expert that you guys are.
>>> Ross Virgin
>>> Toronto, Canada
>> The regulator is trying to do its job. It does that by
>> making and breaking the Field circuit (thru resistors)
>> of the generator. I doubt there is anything wrong, though
>> the charging voltage is a bit low. Does the battery ever
>> appear to be undercharged? If not, leave well enough...
>>
>> Yes, "X" is accessory, in this case it's for Headlights and wipers.
>>
>> Brw/Blu was only used for the door open buzzer. Just disconnect it and
>> tape up.
>>
>> I'm just now finishing a new page about the flashers and Hazards.
>> This simplified diagram shows your setup:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/SCHEM/Flash7.gif
>>
>> The same flasher is used for Turn and Hazards, but each function
>> has a separate fuse. I suspect that there is a short in the
>> Blk/Grn wire to the Right signal(s). That could be either front or
>> rear lights, so try to isolate the one causing it. In the trunk area,
>> look for the Blk/Grn wires near the speedo. There should be a
>> 4-position plastic splice block you can pull wires out of to
>> disable front or rear.
>>
>> Look for places where the wire might have gotten crushed or even
>> swapped with the Brw wire if work has been done that might affect it.
>>
>> The internal wiring of the front light is hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/SCHEM/turn_sig.jpg
>> and the rear:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/tail1.gif
>>
>> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>
> ..
> ..
> Jim
>
> 1) Much appreciate all your detail.
>
> 2) Your diagrams amaze me. I have wondered how you
> draw them..... presumably with some graphics program.
>
> 3) I will definitely check the green/black wires going to
> the right side bulbs.
>
> 4) Regarding the voltage regulator, yes, I understand it
> does its job through on/off/on/off/on/off switching of
> the generator field. Of all 7 of my Beetles, I normally
> do not hear the "clicking" of the solenoids this loudly,
> nor them turning on/off/on/off/on every half-second or
> so. Not even in this application (1972 Super Beetle,
> which I have owned the full 36 years, I have never heard
> the regulator clicking so much. Therefore, I was
> concerned about burning out the contacts with so
> frequent cycling.
>
> 5) With the regulator, I might swap in a new one, just
> for a quick mile or two, to see if a) the charge voltage
> goes back up to the normal 13.4 to 14.5 and b) to see
> if the new one does the click... click... click... click...
>
> 6) Back to the 1971 Super Beetle, I love all the wiring
> diagrams you have on your web site. They are
> extremely clear, easy to read.
>
> 7) Have you ever scanned the full wiring diagrams
> for the various cars from the Bentley manuals, or
> other VW manuals, so they can be colour printed
> into the future as the manuals become fewer... and
> fewer .... and fewer to be found?
>
> Again, thanks for all your excellent comments.
>
> Ross Virgin
> Toronto, Canada
> ..
> ..
> ..
> ..
> ..


Sure, put another regulator in; it may solve the clicking.

You can download scanned diagrams in color he
http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/index.html
and also:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php

I used to draw everything in Windows Paint, which is
somewhat tedious
Lately I've been using Serif Draw Plus; it's perfect
for this kind of line work.

Jim