92 vw corrado slc vr6 ignition problems

I am having problems with my 92 corrado vr6, its missing, bucking,
worse around 1500 to 2000 rpms. When pushing throttle it acts like it
does not want to go. When it decides to go it will jerk so hard it
about gives you whiplash. When at idle when pushing throttle it does
not go but after pushing so far it jumps up to about 3000 rpm. Had it
in a VW specialty shop and was told it was a timing problem. The
timing is jumping around everywhere. Advancing and retarding depending
on RPM. But mostly just bouncing around. I have actually had it at 3
shops and everyone comes up with nothing much to go on. All of them
specializing in VW or import specialties. The dealer will not even work
on it. Sometimes runs perfect when cold for a few minutes(3 minutes or
less). Have done complete tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, knock
sensors, coil, and coil module. Put evap solenoid, tps sensor on it.
Have been told it may be the computer but would like to get other
opinions before putting out that much more money. Does anyone know how
to check the ECM without VAG tool? I have checked relays, vacuum
lines, cleaned conections on grounds and everything else. I can not
get the computer to erase the codes that are there most of which are
from me unplugging and checking things. Any help would be great, I am
at a loss of what to try next.

If you get a Bentley it should give you directions on how to check most
items at the ECM plug with a VOM.
Do you lose spark when the bucking starts? Might be a bad distributor hall
sensor.
What about the Coolant Temperature Sensor for the FI?


Have you checked the throttle body?

good luck!
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/



> wrote in message
ups.com...
>I am having problems with my 92 corrado vr6, its missing, bucking,
> worse around 1500 to 2000 rpms. When pushing throttle it acts like it
> does not want to go. When it decides to go it will jerk so hard it
> about gives you whiplash. When at idle when pushing throttle it does
> not go but after pushing so far it jumps up to about 3000 rpm. Had it
> in a VW specialty shop and was told it was a timing problem. The
> timing is jumping around everywhere. Advancing and retarding depending
> on RPM. But mostly just bouncing around. I have actually had it at 3
> shops and everyone comes up with nothing much to go on. All of them
> specializing in VW or import specialties. The dealer will not even work
> on it. Sometimes runs perfect when cold for a few minutes(3 minutes or
> less). Have done complete tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, knock
> sensors, coil, and coil module. Put evap solenoid, tps sensor on it.
> Have been told it may be the computer but would like to get other
> opinions before putting out that much more money. Does anyone know how
> to check the ECM without VAG tool? I have checked relays, vacuum
> lines, cleaned conections on grounds and everything else. I can not
> get the computer to erase the codes that are there most of which are
> from me unplugging and checking things. Any help would be great, I am
> at a loss of what to try next.
>

Get the codes cleared, then drive it for several days and then post the
fault codes here.

> wrote in message
ups.com...
>I am having problems with my 92 corrado vr6, its missing, bucking,
> worse around 1500 to 2000 rpms. When pushing throttle it acts like it
> does not want to go. When it decides to go it will jerk so hard it
> about gives you whiplash. When at idle when pushing throttle it does
> not go but after pushing so far it jumps up to about 3000 rpm. Had it
> in a VW specialty shop and was told it was a timing problem. The
> timing is jumping around everywhere. Advancing and retarding depending
> on RPM. But mostly just bouncing around. I have actually had it at 3
> shops and everyone comes up with nothing much to go on. All of them
> specializing in VW or import specialties. The dealer will not even work
> on it. Sometimes runs perfect when cold for a few minutes(3 minutes or
> less). Have done complete tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, knock
> sensors, coil, and coil module. Put evap solenoid, tps sensor on it.
> Have been told it may be the computer but would like to get other
> opinions before putting out that much more money. Does anyone know how
> to check the ECM without VAG tool? I have checked relays, vacuum
> lines, cleaned conections on grounds and everything else. I can not
> get the computer to erase the codes that are there most of which are
> from me unplugging and checking things. Any help would be great, I am
> at a loss of what to try next.
>

I have checked coolant temp sensor was ok. Today I checked the hall
sender in the dist. it has power to it but when it is unplugged the car
still runs the same. I do have a bentley manual but can't find much
info on the ignition, it just has a couple sensor checks. Most checks
have to have a VAG break out box. I have gotten the codes to clear
finally. The only 2 codes staying in it are the speed sensor and idle
air control valve which I have been told will show up if engine is not
running.

could it be a crank position sensor (Engine Speed Sensor)?

> wrote in message
ups.com...
>I have checked coolant temp sensor was ok. Today I checked the hall
> sender in the dist. it has power to it but when it is unplugged the car
> still runs the same. I do have a bentley manual but can't find much
> info on the ignition, it just has a couple sensor checks. Most checks
> have to have a VAG break out box. I have gotten the codes to clear
> finally. The only 2 codes staying in it are the speed sensor and idle
> air control valve which I have been told will show up if engine is not
> running.
>
>

I talked to a speed shop friday and was told that if the hall-sender
is not working that the car will run in limp home mode. Also that it
may be running on the crank sensor only. I have been told that if the
car is not running when getting the codes it will set a speed sensor
code. I am going to do some checking on the distributor today and see
if I can find out if it is working right. I will also check the speed
sensor.

Yes if the G40 sensor in the distributor is faulty the engine still will
run. It's only use is for the ECU to know where number on cylinder is(TDI)
so it can fire the injector sequentially. If the crank sensor(G28) is faulty
the engine will not start.


> wrote in message
oups.com...
>I talked to a speed shop friday and was told that if the hall-sender
> is not working that the car will run in limp home mode. Also that it
> may be running on the crank sensor only. I have been told that if the
> car is not running when getting the codes it will set a speed sensor
> code. I am going to do some checking on the distributor today and see
> if I can find out if it is working right. I will also check the speed
> sensor.
>

I checked the hall sender and the crank sensor everything checks ok. I
have a flash on the LED at the distributor and a flash on the LED at
the coil power output stage when cranking the engine. When the engine
is running I have a flashing LED at the distributor,at the coil it
stays lit while running, I guess its flashing to fast to see.