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Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 19th 04, 07:11 PM
Dantanna
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC

Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC

Done at 34k miles.

Dealer price $89 on special

My cost:

$38 pads
$3.00 brake cleaner
$3.00 antisqeal gel
Time - 2+ hours


Since there is little on the subject I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I
got some middle of the road Raybestos pads for around $38 for the set. Also
got some brake pad antisqueal sauce and a 6 point 13/16" socket and new 1/2"
ratchet from Sears. The 6 point socket is for removing the 2 bolts at the
rear of the caliper without stripping them.

To hang the calipers use a sturdy wire or coat hanger and make sure it is
very secure - these things are very heavy compared to smaller vehicles.

To get the caliper off of the rotor you will need to carefully wrangle a
c-clamp into the hole on the caliper and bear down on the lip of the inner
pad and the rear of the caliper. It is tough but you only need it to move a
little bit.

Use a screw driver to carefully remove the old pads noting how they fit into
the caliper.

Before cranking down the piston with a C-clamp put the rear pad into
position. After in position use the c-clamp to compress the piston all the
way down.

Next put the outside pad on. It will take some wrestling but you can do it.

Remount on the wheel assembly and you are done.

Don't forget the antisqueal sauce!


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  #2  
Old December 21st 04, 09:00 AM
Sam Steele
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I sure hope you performed a brake fluid flush, when pushing back the piston
crack the bleeder screw so the old fluid pours out rather than is kept in
the caliper or forced back up through the system. Brake fluid should be
changed every 2 years on an ABS equipped car and probably on a non ABS
equipped car though there aren't as many expensive parts to rust out.
"Dantanna" > wrote in message
...
> Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC
>
> Done at 34k miles.
>
> Dealer price $89 on special
>
> My cost:
>
> $38 pads
> $3.00 brake cleaner
> $3.00 antisqeal gel
> Time - 2+ hours
>
>
> Since there is little on the subject I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I
> got some middle of the road Raybestos pads for around $38 for the set.
> Also
> got some brake pad antisqueal sauce and a 6 point 13/16" socket and new
> 1/2"
> ratchet from Sears. The 6 point socket is for removing the 2 bolts at
> the
> rear of the caliper without stripping them.
>
> To hang the calipers use a sturdy wire or coat hanger and make sure it is
> very secure - these things are very heavy compared to smaller vehicles.
>
> To get the caliper off of the rotor you will need to carefully wrangle a
> c-clamp into the hole on the caliper and bear down on the lip of the inner
> pad and the rear of the caliper. It is tough but you only need it to move
> a
> little bit.
>
> Use a screw driver to carefully remove the old pads noting how they fit
> into
> the caliper.
>
> Before cranking down the piston with a C-clamp put the rear pad into
> position. After in position use the c-clamp to compress the piston all
> the
> way down.
>
> Next put the outside pad on. It will take some wrestling but you can do
> it.
>
> Remount on the wheel assembly and you are done.
>
> Don't forget the antisqueal sauce!
>
>



  #3  
Old December 21st 04, 09:00 AM
Sam Steele
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I sure hope you performed a brake fluid flush, when pushing back the piston
crack the bleeder screw so the old fluid pours out rather than is kept in
the caliper or forced back up through the system. Brake fluid should be
changed every 2 years on an ABS equipped car and probably on a non ABS
equipped car though there aren't as many expensive parts to rust out.
"Dantanna" > wrote in message
...
> Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC
>
> Done at 34k miles.
>
> Dealer price $89 on special
>
> My cost:
>
> $38 pads
> $3.00 brake cleaner
> $3.00 antisqeal gel
> Time - 2+ hours
>
>
> Since there is little on the subject I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I
> got some middle of the road Raybestos pads for around $38 for the set.
> Also
> got some brake pad antisqueal sauce and a 6 point 13/16" socket and new
> 1/2"
> ratchet from Sears. The 6 point socket is for removing the 2 bolts at
> the
> rear of the caliper without stripping them.
>
> To hang the calipers use a sturdy wire or coat hanger and make sure it is
> very secure - these things are very heavy compared to smaller vehicles.
>
> To get the caliper off of the rotor you will need to carefully wrangle a
> c-clamp into the hole on the caliper and bear down on the lip of the inner
> pad and the rear of the caliper. It is tough but you only need it to move
> a
> little bit.
>
> Use a screw driver to carefully remove the old pads noting how they fit
> into
> the caliper.
>
> Before cranking down the piston with a C-clamp put the rear pad into
> position. After in position use the c-clamp to compress the piston all
> the
> way down.
>
> Next put the outside pad on. It will take some wrestling but you can do
> it.
>
> Remount on the wheel assembly and you are done.
>
> Don't forget the antisqueal sauce!
>
>



  #4  
Old December 21st 04, 12:56 PM
Richard
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

To save money Chrysler used cheap (but functional) pads that product tons of
dust that turn the wheels black. A switch to ceramic pads eliminate that
issue. Ceramic pads are standard on many makes of cars today, such as Honda
and Toyota. In my opinion they are the way to go if you have mag style
wheels.

Richard.


  #5  
Old December 21st 04, 12:56 PM
Richard
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

To save money Chrysler used cheap (but functional) pads that product tons of
dust that turn the wheels black. A switch to ceramic pads eliminate that
issue. Ceramic pads are standard on many makes of cars today, such as Honda
and Toyota. In my opinion they are the way to go if you have mag style
wheels.

Richard.


  #6  
Old December 21st 04, 09:59 PM
Doug
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Theoretically you are right.
However, try to find the average brake shop that flushes fluid with a
pad change.
Right.....

Doug




On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 08:00:41 GMT, "Sam Steele" >
wrote:

>I sure hope you performed a brake fluid flush, when pushing back the piston
>crack the bleeder screw so the old fluid pours out rather than is kept in
>the caliper or forced back up through the system. Brake fluid should be
>changed every 2 years on an ABS equipped car and probably on a non ABS
>equipped car though there aren't as many expensive parts to rust out.
>"Dantanna" > wrote in message
...
>> Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC
>>
>> Done at 34k miles.
>>
>> Dealer price $89 on special
>>
>> My cost:
>>
>> $38 pads
>> $3.00 brake cleaner
>> $3.00 antisqeal gel
>> Time - 2+ hours
>>
>>
>> Since there is little on the subject I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I
>> got some middle of the road Raybestos pads for around $38 for the set.
>> Also
>> got some brake pad antisqueal sauce and a 6 point 13/16" socket and new
>> 1/2"
>> ratchet from Sears. The 6 point socket is for removing the 2 bolts at
>> the
>> rear of the caliper without stripping them.
>>
>> To hang the calipers use a sturdy wire or coat hanger and make sure it is
>> very secure - these things are very heavy compared to smaller vehicles.
>>
>> To get the caliper off of the rotor you will need to carefully wrangle a
>> c-clamp into the hole on the caliper and bear down on the lip of the inner
>> pad and the rear of the caliper. It is tough but you only need it to move
>> a
>> little bit.
>>
>> Use a screw driver to carefully remove the old pads noting how they fit
>> into
>> the caliper.
>>
>> Before cranking down the piston with a C-clamp put the rear pad into
>> position. After in position use the c-clamp to compress the piston all
>> the
>> way down.
>>
>> Next put the outside pad on. It will take some wrestling but you can do
>> it.
>>
>> Remount on the wheel assembly and you are done.
>>
>> Don't forget the antisqueal sauce!
>>
>>

>


  #7  
Old December 21st 04, 09:59 PM
Doug
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Theoretically you are right.
However, try to find the average brake shop that flushes fluid with a
pad change.
Right.....

Doug




On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 08:00:41 GMT, "Sam Steele" >
wrote:

>I sure hope you performed a brake fluid flush, when pushing back the piston
>crack the bleeder screw so the old fluid pours out rather than is kept in
>the caliper or forced back up through the system. Brake fluid should be
>changed every 2 years on an ABS equipped car and probably on a non ABS
>equipped car though there aren't as many expensive parts to rust out.
>"Dantanna" > wrote in message
...
>> Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC
>>
>> Done at 34k miles.
>>
>> Dealer price $89 on special
>>
>> My cost:
>>
>> $38 pads
>> $3.00 brake cleaner
>> $3.00 antisqeal gel
>> Time - 2+ hours
>>
>>
>> Since there is little on the subject I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I
>> got some middle of the road Raybestos pads for around $38 for the set.
>> Also
>> got some brake pad antisqueal sauce and a 6 point 13/16" socket and new
>> 1/2"
>> ratchet from Sears. The 6 point socket is for removing the 2 bolts at
>> the
>> rear of the caliper without stripping them.
>>
>> To hang the calipers use a sturdy wire or coat hanger and make sure it is
>> very secure - these things are very heavy compared to smaller vehicles.
>>
>> To get the caliper off of the rotor you will need to carefully wrangle a
>> c-clamp into the hole on the caliper and bear down on the lip of the inner
>> pad and the rear of the caliper. It is tough but you only need it to move
>> a
>> little bit.
>>
>> Use a screw driver to carefully remove the old pads noting how they fit
>> into
>> the caliper.
>>
>> Before cranking down the piston with a C-clamp put the rear pad into
>> position. After in position use the c-clamp to compress the piston all
>> the
>> way down.
>>
>> Next put the outside pad on. It will take some wrestling but you can do
>> it.
>>
>> Remount on the wheel assembly and you are done.
>>
>> Don't forget the antisqueal sauce!
>>
>>

>


  #8  
Old December 22nd 04, 09:13 PM
Sam Steele
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Most I talk with do the fluid flush with pad replacement, the ghetto low
ball shops most likely won't but then you get what you pay for.
"Doug" > wrote in message
...
>
> Theoretically you are right.
> However, try to find the average brake shop that flushes fluid with a
> pad change.
> Right.....
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 08:00:41 GMT, "Sam Steele" >
> wrote:
>
>>I sure hope you performed a brake fluid flush, when pushing back the
>>piston
>>crack the bleeder screw so the old fluid pours out rather than is kept in
>>the caliper or forced back up through the system. Brake fluid should be
>>changed every 2 years on an ABS equipped car and probably on a non ABS
>>equipped car though there aren't as many expensive parts to rust out.
>>"Dantanna" > wrote in message
...
>>> Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC
>>>
>>> Done at 34k miles.
>>>
>>> Dealer price $89 on special
>>>
>>> My cost:
>>>
>>> $38 pads
>>> $3.00 brake cleaner
>>> $3.00 antisqeal gel
>>> Time - 2+ hours
>>>
>>>
>>> Since there is little on the subject I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.
>>> I
>>> got some middle of the road Raybestos pads for around $38 for the set.
>>> Also
>>> got some brake pad antisqueal sauce and a 6 point 13/16" socket and new
>>> 1/2"
>>> ratchet from Sears. The 6 point socket is for removing the 2 bolts at
>>> the
>>> rear of the caliper without stripping them.
>>>
>>> To hang the calipers use a sturdy wire or coat hanger and make sure it
>>> is
>>> very secure - these things are very heavy compared to smaller vehicles.
>>>
>>> To get the caliper off of the rotor you will need to carefully wrangle a
>>> c-clamp into the hole on the caliper and bear down on the lip of the
>>> inner
>>> pad and the rear of the caliper. It is tough but you only need it to
>>> move
>>> a
>>> little bit.
>>>
>>> Use a screw driver to carefully remove the old pads noting how they fit
>>> into
>>> the caliper.
>>>
>>> Before cranking down the piston with a C-clamp put the rear pad into
>>> position. After in position use the c-clamp to compress the piston all
>>> the
>>> way down.
>>>
>>> Next put the outside pad on. It will take some wrestling but you can do
>>> it.
>>>
>>> Remount on the wheel assembly and you are done.
>>>
>>> Don't forget the antisqueal sauce!
>>>
>>>

>>

>



  #9  
Old December 22nd 04, 09:13 PM
Sam Steele
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Most I talk with do the fluid flush with pad replacement, the ghetto low
ball shops most likely won't but then you get what you pay for.
"Doug" > wrote in message
...
>
> Theoretically you are right.
> However, try to find the average brake shop that flushes fluid with a
> pad change.
> Right.....
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 08:00:41 GMT, "Sam Steele" >
> wrote:
>
>>I sure hope you performed a brake fluid flush, when pushing back the
>>piston
>>crack the bleeder screw so the old fluid pours out rather than is kept in
>>the caliper or forced back up through the system. Brake fluid should be
>>changed every 2 years on an ABS equipped car and probably on a non ABS
>>equipped car though there aren't as many expensive parts to rust out.
>>"Dantanna" > wrote in message
...
>>> Front Brake pad replacement 2003 Town and Country TC
>>>
>>> Done at 34k miles.
>>>
>>> Dealer price $89 on special
>>>
>>> My cost:
>>>
>>> $38 pads
>>> $3.00 brake cleaner
>>> $3.00 antisqeal gel
>>> Time - 2+ hours
>>>
>>>
>>> Since there is little on the subject I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.
>>> I
>>> got some middle of the road Raybestos pads for around $38 for the set.
>>> Also
>>> got some brake pad antisqueal sauce and a 6 point 13/16" socket and new
>>> 1/2"
>>> ratchet from Sears. The 6 point socket is for removing the 2 bolts at
>>> the
>>> rear of the caliper without stripping them.
>>>
>>> To hang the calipers use a sturdy wire or coat hanger and make sure it
>>> is
>>> very secure - these things are very heavy compared to smaller vehicles.
>>>
>>> To get the caliper off of the rotor you will need to carefully wrangle a
>>> c-clamp into the hole on the caliper and bear down on the lip of the
>>> inner
>>> pad and the rear of the caliper. It is tough but you only need it to
>>> move
>>> a
>>> little bit.
>>>
>>> Use a screw driver to carefully remove the old pads noting how they fit
>>> into
>>> the caliper.
>>>
>>> Before cranking down the piston with a C-clamp put the rear pad into
>>> position. After in position use the c-clamp to compress the piston all
>>> the
>>> way down.
>>>
>>> Next put the outside pad on. It will take some wrestling but you can do
>>> it.
>>>
>>> Remount on the wheel assembly and you are done.
>>>
>>> Don't forget the antisqueal sauce!
>>>
>>>

>>

>



 




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