Fix strategy for (common?) broken hood on '71?

>>the seam, remove the screws when dry). Any time you have a cut always v
>>out the front of it & fill with resin & mat, *then* sand smooth &
finish

>This is probably old-hat to those experienced w/ fiberglass work but I
don't quite follow the above sentence bout v'ing out and filling -
I'll do a web search for online articles/pix on generic fiberglass
repairs but can I trouble you to elaborate in the meantime?
********
V-ing is simply grinding out the crack from the front side, after the back
side repair is dry. Just grind out the center of the crack all the way
through the original thickness of the 'glass, tapering out the edges so
that the crack is formed onto a v. Once you fill that with resin & mat &
it dries, you grind it down flat (or to original shape) & fill the
grinding marks with bondo.
Sorry I don't have any pics of the process. ;^p
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

I have bought several hoods for about the same amount as lunch because the
hinge boxes or the hood support box was broken. And they break again unless
you fiberglass enough to hold.

If all you want is strength, make a channel of aluminum about 2 ft long
centered on the hinge mount. Then pop rivet the heck out of it on all three
sides.

You could do the same with fiberglass.

However, if you want to do one that will not be noticeable, you have to work
from the inside and that can only be done with the hood skin off the frame.
It is a lot of work, but then that is why so many hoods went so cheap once
broken.


"ThaDriver" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> *********
> Yes that's right. The following post from Tom says not to do this: he
> suggests seperating a *much* longer peice of the inner frame to access the
> repair area, & just spreading the two out far enough to do the repair.
This
> can cause stress cracks at the point where you do not seperate the peices,
> from trying to pull them far enough apart to do the work. Also, very
> difficult to get in there & grind the 'glass (you'd have to do it by
> hand-sanding with 40 grit) for proper adhesion.

I have bought several hoods for about the same amount as lunch because the
hinge boxes or the hood support box was broken. And they break again unless
you fiberglass enough to hold.

If all you want is strength, make a channel of aluminum about 2 ft long
centered on the hinge mount. Then pop rivet the heck out of it on all three
sides.

You could do the same with fiberglass.

However, if you want to do one that will not be noticeable, you have to work
from the inside and that can only be done with the hood skin off the frame.
It is a lot of work, but then that is why so many hoods went so cheap once
broken.


"ThaDriver" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> *********
> Yes that's right. The following post from Tom says not to do this: he
> suggests seperating a *much* longer peice of the inner frame to access the
> repair area, & just spreading the two out far enough to do the repair.
This
> can cause stress cracks at the point where you do not seperate the peices,
> from trying to pull them far enough apart to do the work. Also, very
> difficult to get in there & grind the 'glass (you'd have to do it by
> hand-sanding with 40 grit) for proper adhesion.