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#1
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1993 Plymouth Voyager w\3.0 litre motor
I have a 1993 Voyager with the 3 litre motor. It has a ticking noise in the
top end and am wondering how diffucult a valve job is to perform? Or is this something better left for a mechanic, and if it is, what does it cost. The van is my handicapped brothers and my dad and I would perform the work ourselves. Any suggestions would be wonderful. Thanks Kevin |
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#2
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This is a fair amount of work, but doable
You'll need a 10mm allen on a socket for the tourque wrench to reinstal the head bolts. see http://www.allpar.com/mopar/3tech.html and note the paragraph on "ticking noise" tip1: also get a bag of small ruber bands (1/2 inch) to place on the lifters so they dont fall on the floor when being removed from heads. tip2: when removing the lifters w/ shaft assemblies. leave the bolts in them so they stay in place on the shafts. else the springs push the assembly apart and it is a pain to get the thing together again. I learned the tips the hard way. Used a 1/2 in Air tool to remove crankshaft pully and cam sprokets and 3/8 air ratchet for the bolts on the front of the engine. Handy but not required. use a bunch of containers to hold the bolts so they all go back in the right areas. Use neversieze on exhaust stud/nuts. Find a local parts dealer that delivers parts to the local shops and ask for a head shop to do the heads. buy the gasket kit and take the valve stem seals with the heads to the shop for overhaul. No need to buy the seals twice. I found it easier to remove the two front bolts on the exhaust crossover and the 4 on the rear mainifold to catilytic converter and then just lift the heads off with the exhaust manifolds attached (same for reasembly). Much easier to get to all the bolts with the heads off. You'll have the front of the engine apart as well and may want to replace the timingbelt, waterpump, front crank seal (seal only, leave housing in place). there are also the two timing belt idler bearings. I left mine as is. good luck |
#3
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This is a fair amount of work, but doable
You'll need a 10mm allen on a socket for the tourque wrench to reinstal the head bolts. see http://www.allpar.com/mopar/3tech.html and note the paragraph on "ticking noise" tip1: also get a bag of small ruber bands (1/2 inch) to place on the lifters so they dont fall on the floor when being removed from heads. tip2: when removing the lifters w/ shaft assemblies. leave the bolts in them so they stay in place on the shafts. else the springs push the assembly apart and it is a pain to get the thing together again. I learned the tips the hard way. Used a 1/2 in Air tool to remove crankshaft pully and cam sprokets and 3/8 air ratchet for the bolts on the front of the engine. Handy but not required. use a bunch of containers to hold the bolts so they all go back in the right areas. Use neversieze on exhaust stud/nuts. Find a local parts dealer that delivers parts to the local shops and ask for a head shop to do the heads. buy the gasket kit and take the valve stem seals with the heads to the shop for overhaul. No need to buy the seals twice. I found it easier to remove the two front bolts on the exhaust crossover and the 4 on the rear mainifold to catilytic converter and then just lift the heads off with the exhaust manifolds attached (same for reasembly). Much easier to get to all the bolts with the heads off. You'll have the front of the engine apart as well and may want to replace the timingbelt, waterpump, front crank seal (seal only, leave housing in place). there are also the two timing belt idler bearings. I left mine as is. good luck |
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