'71 Beetle, broken lower ball-joint

Hi. Quite a boo-boo on my bug recently. The passenger lower ball-joint
simply split into two pieces, one piece still attatched to the torsion
arm, the other on the steering knuckle. Any advice on how to replace
this would be much appreciated. I have found a tool on JCWhitney's
website for extracting it (fork with a bolt on it). What is needed for
installing a ball-joint? Will I need to completely remove the torsion
arm from the car to do this? Thank you for your consideration.

Tell,
Idaho.

Its best to take the arm off and take it to have the joint pressed out and
the new one installed. (its cheaper that way, since you dont have to pay
someone to take it all apart and reassemble) takes alot of force to press
the new joint in! while you are at it take all 4 off and replace them all!
(thats like only replacing one tire, or doing a brake job on one wheel.)

--
vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw
dragenwagen
1966 Type I
http://www.ramva.org/dragenwagen
"Old VW"s don't leak oil, they mark their territory."
vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw


"Tell" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hi. Quite a boo-boo on my bug recently. The passenger lower ball-joint
> simply split into two pieces, one piece still attatched to the torsion
> arm, the other on the steering knuckle. Any advice on how to replace
> this would be much appreciated. I have found a tool on JCWhitney's
> website for extracting it (fork with a bolt on it). What is needed for
> installing a ball-joint? Will I need to completely remove the torsion
> arm from the car to do this? Thank you for your consideration.
>
> Tell,
> Idaho.
>

Definitely check them all at least, along with the arm bearings!!! How is
the front end's condition? Any major through rust?

There should still be places that will sell you "rebuilt" arms with new ball
joints pressed in them already.
I prefer keeping what came off the car since I kinda know the history of the
existing one! ;-)

I have the tool that specifically changes the Type 1 ball joints and also
the C-type tool from Harbor Freight. The HF tool would probably work, if
the cheap thing does not bend first, but you would probably have to buy the
adapter set for it and then your cost for this tool might run you over $120
unless you bought them on sale. You also might be able to rent the tool.
Having a tool like this might allow you to change the ball joint while the
arm is still installed!

NOTE: Ball joints are designed to be aligned before you install them!

"dragenwagen" > wrote in message
...
> Its best to take the arm off and take it to have the joint pressed out and
> the new one installed. (its cheaper that way, since you dont have to pay
> someone to take it all apart and reassemble) takes alot of force to press
> the new joint in! while you are at it take all 4 off and replace them all!
> (thats like only replacing one tire, or doing a brake job on one wheel.)
>
> --
> vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw
> dragenwagen
> 1966 Type I
> http://www.ramva.org/dragenwagen
> "Old VW"s don't leak oil, they mark their territory."
> vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw
>
>
> "Tell" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>> Hi. Quite a boo-boo on my bug recently. The passenger lower ball-joint
>> simply split into two pieces, one piece still attatched to the torsion
>> arm, the other on the steering knuckle. Any advice on how to replace
>> this would be much appreciated. I have found a tool on JCWhitney's
>> website for extracting it (fork with a bolt on it). What is needed for
>> installing a ball-joint? Will I need to completely remove the torsion
>> arm from the car to do this? Thank you for your consideration.
>>
>> Tell,
>> Idaho.
>>
>
>

Try Wolfgang International (http://www.wolfgangint.com). That's where
I bought my rebuilt trailing arms w/ new Ball Joints. I shopped
around and they seemed to have the best deal.

Search their site for "Reconditioned Ball Joint Arms".


AshMan40