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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 19th 05, 11:56 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?

Hi, I have five questions (below). Both the blower motor and radiator fan
for my '91 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter no longer work, even though I replaced
both motors last week. The 25 amp AC/Heater fuse blows every time as soon as
I turn the key to "run" with the heater on. I must have a short.

After studying the wiring diagram, it seems the radiator fan and blower
motor are on the same circuit.

The wiring for this circuit goes as follows:

Wire from Ignition Switch to
25 amp Heater/AC Fuse

Then from this Fuse, wire to Splice A, with two wires coming out of this
splice (wires 1 and 2 below):

Splice A Wire 1:
From Splice A to
Heater Control Switch then to
Blower Resistor then
through the firewall then to
Splice B: one wire to blower motor and the other to the blower relay

Also, redundant ground from Blower Motor to Main Ground at Tranny Bolt

Splice A Wire 2:

From splice A through firewall then
to Coolant Fan Relay then
to Alternator input sensor

[end]


QUESTION 1:
So does this mean the short must be between Splice A above and the ignition
switch?

QUESTION 2: If so, why does my alternator still work then, since that is
also at the end of this same circuit??

I am at my wits end, as I was forced to purposely break my plastic center
console in multiple places, just to access the blower motor switch. I was
considering taking a Sawzall to it to get enough access. See, my shift stick
knob would not come off, even though I pulled out the U-Pin. So I had no
choice but to break the console into pieces to get to the blower switch.

QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick know off if it is stuck on?

Then, I was not able to perform the Chevy recommended diagnostic procedure
with my DMM, since as soon as I turned the key to run, the fuse blew!

And it is almost impossible to inspect the wiring, since the clusters are
completely wrapped in electrical tape and very hard to access, even with the
panels off, due to a metal support frame. It would take my hours just to
remove the tape.

And there is molten lava-like black gunk covering everything where my wire
harness enters through the firewall. I thought is was dirt, but it feels too
rubbery. It prevents me from seeing the wires at some points.

QUESTION 4: What is this gunk?

And now I have to remove the glove box and passenger side trim to access the
blower resistor.!

QUESTION 5: When will all this insanity end? All this just to find a short?!


Thanks for any help!

Julie


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  #2  
Old November 19th 05, 11:57 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?


"Julie P." > wrote in message
news:74Off.5376$BC2.2@trnddc04...

> QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick know off if it is stuck on?
>


Shift Stick KNOB!


  #3  
Old November 20th 05, 01:03 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?


"Julie P." > wrote in message
news:74Off.5376$BC2.2@trnddc04...

> QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick knob off if it is stuck on?


Usually there is a horseshoe or staple shaped clip that holds the knob on.
It usually goes on the front of the knob, where it is not easily seen.. If
yours
is of this ilk, just pry it out and the knob should come off.


I will try to reconstruct your schematic and make a guess.


  #4  
Old November 20th 05, 01:08 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?


> wrote in message
. net...
>
> "Julie P." > wrote in message
> news:74Off.5376$BC2.2@trnddc04...
>
>> QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick knob off if it is stuck on?

>
> Usually there is a horseshoe or staple shaped clip that holds the knob on.
> It usually goes on the front of the knob, where it is not easily seen..
> If
> yours
> is of this ilk, just pry it out and the knob should come off.
>
>
> I will try to reconstruct your schematic and make a guess.
>


Thanks HLS. But I did take the U-clip off. And the knob was still stuck on
the stick. Should I just yank on it with all my strength (without trying to
hold the stick down)? Will I damage the tranny? Or will I yank the stick out
fo the tranny if I did this?

Julie


  #5  
Old November 20th 05, 03:28 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?


"Julie P." > wrote in message
news:08Pff.1541$Vu2.190@trnddc06...

> Thanks HLS. But I did take the U-clip off. And the knob was still stuck on
> the stick. Should I just yank on it with all my strength (without trying

to
> hold the stick down)? Will I damage the tranny? Or will I yank the stick

out
> fo the tranny if I did this?
>
> Julie


Although I am not familiar with this Cavalier application, GM normally just
uses the
U clip retainer, and the knob should come off. I havent noticed before that
the park
release button gets involved in holding the knob on, but you could try
gently pulling
and twisting while working that button.

If you got really heavy handed, I guess you could always damage the shifter.
But I
think it is rather unlikely.

I have a Chiltons or somesuch which applies to a number of GM cars, and will
take
a look a little later today to see if GM engineers have come up with some
change
in the setup.



  #6  
Old November 20th 05, 04:34 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?

Try squirting some oil in the key hole in the ignition switch.
Don't ask me why but it cured an intermittenet problem with my heater fan
and window wipers. That was after I had removed and inspected the wiper
motor and removed the steering column cover and examined the ignition wiring.

I'd also try some (penetrating) oil or WD-40 on the stick shift.

  #7  
Old November 20th 05, 04:37 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?

Just a thought for you.

On the last heater blower I bought, the power plug was a 'universal' one
that could have the negative in either of the two pin positions. If I
had of gotten it wrong, I would blow the fuse instantly like you are
doing.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

"Julie P." wrote:
>
> Hi, I have five questions (below). Both the blower motor and radiator fan
> for my '91 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter no longer work, even though I replaced
> both motors last week. The 25 amp AC/Heater fuse blows every time as soon as
> I turn the key to "run" with the heater on. I must have a short.
>
> After studying the wiring diagram, it seems the radiator fan and blower
> motor are on the same circuit.
>
> The wiring for this circuit goes as follows:
>
> Wire from Ignition Switch to
> 25 amp Heater/AC Fuse
>
> Then from this Fuse, wire to Splice A, with two wires coming out of this
> splice (wires 1 and 2 below):
>
> Splice A Wire 1:
> From Splice A to
> Heater Control Switch then to
> Blower Resistor then
> through the firewall then to
> Splice B: one wire to blower motor and the other to the blower relay
>
> Also, redundant ground from Blower Motor to Main Ground at Tranny Bolt
>
> Splice A Wire 2:
>
> From splice A through firewall then
> to Coolant Fan Relay then
> to Alternator input sensor
>
> [end]
>
> QUESTION 1:
> So does this mean the short must be between Splice A above and the ignition
> switch?
>
> QUESTION 2: If so, why does my alternator still work then, since that is
> also at the end of this same circuit??
>
> I am at my wits end, as I was forced to purposely break my plastic center
> console in multiple places, just to access the blower motor switch. I was
> considering taking a Sawzall to it to get enough access. See, my shift stick
> knob would not come off, even though I pulled out the U-Pin. So I had no
> choice but to break the console into pieces to get to the blower switch.
>
> QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick know off if it is stuck on?
>
> Then, I was not able to perform the Chevy recommended diagnostic procedure
> with my DMM, since as soon as I turned the key to run, the fuse blew!
>
> And it is almost impossible to inspect the wiring, since the clusters are
> completely wrapped in electrical tape and very hard to access, even with the
> panels off, due to a metal support frame. It would take my hours just to
> remove the tape.
>
> And there is molten lava-like black gunk covering everything where my wire
> harness enters through the firewall. I thought is was dirt, but it feels too
> rubbery. It prevents me from seeing the wires at some points.
>
> QUESTION 4: What is this gunk?
>
> And now I have to remove the glove box and passenger side trim to access the
> blower resistor.!
>
> QUESTION 5: When will all this insanity end? All this just to find a short?!
>
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Julie

  #8  
Old November 20th 05, 05:37 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Posts: n/a
Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?


> wrote in message
om...
>
> "Julie P." > wrote in message
> news:08Pff.1541$Vu2.190@trnddc06...
>
> > Thanks HLS. But I did take the U-clip off. And the knob was still stuck

on
> > the stick. Should I just yank on it with all my strength (without trying

> to
> > hold the stick down)? Will I damage the tranny? Or will I yank the stick

> out
> > fo the tranny if I did this?
> >
> > Julie


Re the stupid Chiltons, it was worthless. Sorry.


  #9  
Old November 20th 05, 08:30 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Posts: n/a
Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?

> wrote in message
om...
>
> > wrote in message
> om...
>>
>> "Julie P." > wrote in message
>> news:08Pff.1541$Vu2.190@trnddc06...
>>
>> > Thanks HLS. But I did take the U-clip off. And the knob was still stuck

> on
>> > the stick. Should I just yank on it with all my strength (without
>> > trying

>> to
>> > hold the stick down)? Will I damage the tranny? Or will I yank the
>> > stick

>> out
>> > fo the tranny if I did this?
>> >
>> > Julie

>
> Re the stupid Chiltons, it was worthless. Sorry.
>


No problem HLS. Thanks for looking! I'll try wiggling around a little, but I
can tell you it is stuck on pretty tight.

Julie
>



  #10  
Old November 20th 05, 08:32 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Posts: n/a
Default Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?


"William R. Watt" > wrote in message
...
> Try squirting some oil in the key hole in the ignition switch.
> Don't ask me why but it cured an intermittenet problem with my heater fan
> and window wipers. That was after I had removed and inspected the wiper
> motor and removed the steering column cover and examined the ignition
> wiring.
>
> I'd also try some (penetrating) oil or WD-40 on the stick shift.
>


Ok, I'll give these a try William. I know, one time I had an intermittent
problem where the radio shut down while driving, and only restarting the car
fixed this. The problem was traced to a faulty ignition switch, which I
replaced.

Julie


 




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