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99 Cobra cracked ring



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 18th 05, 06:11 AM
cgun
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Default 99 Cobra cracked ring

I started noticing a ticking in my engine (50K miles). The dealer
tells me they think it is a cracked piston ring. Estimated repairs are
between $5K and $7K. I'm not really willing to put that much money
into this car. They say they need to pull the engine and rebuild it or
buy a crate motor.

Can't I just have someone pop the heads off, drop the oil pan, and slip
the piston out? Then hone the cylinder and put some new rings in.
Finally put it all back together without pulling the motor. At this
point I really don't care if it's the best solution, I just need a less
costly solution that won't let the motor destroy itself.

If that's not an option can I just put a cheaper SOHC engine in and
save some bucks? I know, it's sacrilidge, but $7K on a 6 yr old car is
way too much.

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  #2  
Old February 18th 05, 06:40 AM
Brent P
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Default

In article . com>, cgun wrote:
> I started noticing a ticking in my engine (50K miles). The dealer
> tells me they think it is a cracked piston ring. Estimated repairs are
> between $5K and $7K. I'm not really willing to put that much money
> into this car. They say they need to pull the engine and rebuild it or
> buy a crate motor.


Sounds like BS to me. A cracked piston doesn't cause a 'tick' it shatters
and sends shrapnel through the block, and then you look at the hole and
wonder wtf went wrong.

Ticking is usually caused by something not getting enough oil or a part
that is no longer 'meshing' correctly. Some ticking (the kind that
usually goes away as the engine warms up) is generally harmless and not
of any concern, least not worth tearing the engine apart. What sort of
ticking are we talking about here?


  #3  
Old February 18th 05, 07:01 AM
Wound Up
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Posts: n/a
Default

cgun wrote:
> I started noticing a ticking in my engine (50K miles). The dealer
> tells me they think it is a cracked piston ring. Estimated repairs are
> between $5K and $7K. I'm not really willing to put that much money
> into this car. They say they need to pull the engine and rebuild it or
> buy a crate motor.


Bull****; salesmen.

> Can't I just have someone pop the heads off, drop the oil pan, and slip
> the piston out? Then hone the cylinder and put some new rings in.
> Finally put it all back together without pulling the motor. At this
> point I really don't care if it's the best solution, I just need a less
> costly solution that won't let the motor destroy itself.


Ticking would not be the problem if that indeed were the problem. A
blown engine would indeed be the problem if that were the problem.

Look into "cam follower" or other valvetrain problems for your model
year first. Take it to an independent shop or two; it'll be worth the
money. And for God's sake, don't drop that kinda $ on some Sales****'s
recommendation / pitch.

> If that's not an option can I just put a cheaper SOHC engine in and
> save some bucks? I know, it's sacrilidge, but $7K on a 6 yr old car is
> way too much.


It is. Don't listen to these AutoRapists.



--
Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65

  #4  
Old February 18th 05, 03:45 PM
cgun
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Default

It all started about 12K to 15K miles ago. I know that because I
change the oil every 3K miles and it was four or 5 oil changes ago. At
first it would just start ticking (or tapping) when it go close to time
to change the oil. Then I started noticing it tapping when I would
stop at a light. It's a convertible, so I could hear it pretty
clearly, especially if I was next to a wall or a larger vehicle. Every
once in a while I get a puff of smoke when I start it up.

I've been running an oil consumption test with the dealer and have
noticed something. Since I've had it in I have been driving very
cautiously - never going over 2500 to 3000 rpm. It wasn't using up any
oil (compared to a quart or two between changes). The last two days
I've been running it up to 4K and I notice that when I start it the
next time I get a puff of smoke. I'm betting it will go through oil
now. A cracked ring (not piston) does make some sense to me with this
kind of behavior. It does sound like my old 74' Ford truck when I had
a collapsed lifter.

  #5  
Old February 18th 05, 06:55 PM
Wound Up
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Posts: n/a
Default

cgun wrote:
> It all started about 12K to 15K miles ago. I know that because I
> change the oil every 3K miles and it was four or 5 oil changes ago. At
> first it would just start ticking (or tapping) when it go close to time
> to change the oil. Then I started noticing it tapping when I would
> stop at a light. It's a convertible, so I could hear it pretty
> clearly, especially if I was next to a wall or a larger vehicle. Every
> once in a while I get a puff of smoke when I start it up.
>
> I've been running an oil consumption test with the dealer and have
> noticed something. Since I've had it in I have been driving very
> cautiously - never going over 2500 to 3000 rpm. It wasn't using up any
> oil (compared to a quart or two between changes). The last two days
> I've been running it up to 4K and I notice that when I start it the
> next time I get a puff of smoke. I'm betting it will go through oil
> now. A cracked ring (not piston) does make some sense to me with this
> kind of behavior. It does sound like my old 74' Ford truck when I had
> a collapsed lifter.


Yeah, I was thinking "cracked piston". Have you had the compression
tested?



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Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65

  #6  
Old February 18th 05, 07:22 PM
Rein
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Posts: n/a
Default

On 17 Feb 2005 21:11:31 -0800, "cgun" > wrote:

>I started noticing a ticking in my engine (50K miles). The dealer
>tells me they think it is a cracked piston ring. Estimated repairs are
>between $5K and $7K. I'm not really willing to put that much money
>into this car. They say they need to pull the engine and rebuild it or
>buy a crate motor.
>
>Can't I just have someone pop the heads off, drop the oil pan, and slip
>the piston out? Then hone the cylinder and put some new rings in.
>Finally put it all back together without pulling the motor. At this
>point I really don't care if it's the best solution, I just need a less
>costly solution that won't let the motor destroy itself.
>
>If that's not an option can I just put a cheaper SOHC engine in and
>save some bucks? I know, it's sacrilidge, but $7K on a 6 yr old car is
>way too much.


It's probably something with the heads. For 7k you can probably get a
complete new/rebuild engine. Take it somewhere else.
You're not using fram oil fiters by any chance are you ?

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  #7  
Old February 18th 05, 08:37 PM
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Default


No, a cracked piston ***RING** might have this symptom. A leak-down
compression test should identify a problematic cylinder easy enough.
Exactly what is wrong with the cylinder is a educated guess - until you
get it apart.

To be honest, its a Cobra motor, so I would not **** around with
replacing one ring. I think 'Pulling a head' on one of these suckers is
a bit more complex than pulling an old 302 head - overhead cams, timing
chains, etc..

I am under the impression that the head bolts are accessible from the
bottom of the engine (ie: remove oil pan to access the heads of the head
bolts) - can someone clarify this for me? If the head bolts are
accessible in this fashion, it makes 'pulling a head' MUCH more complex, no?

Chris

Brent P wrote:

> In article . com>, cgun wrote:
>
>>I started noticing a ticking in my engine (50K miles). The dealer
>>tells me they think it is a cracked piston ring. Estimated repairs are
>>between $5K and $7K. I'm not really willing to put that much money
>>into this car. They say they need to pull the engine and rebuild it or
>>buy a crate motor.

>
>
> Sounds like BS to me. A cracked piston doesn't cause a 'tick' it shatters
> and sends shrapnel through the block, and then you look at the hole and
> wonder wtf went wrong.
>
> Ticking is usually caused by something not getting enough oil or a part
> that is no longer 'meshing' correctly. Some ticking (the kind that
> usually goes away as the engine warms up) is generally harmless and not
> of any concern, least not worth tearing the engine apart. What sort of
> ticking are we talking about here?
>
>

  #8  
Old February 19th 05, 02:20 AM
Brent P
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article .com>, cgun wrote:

> I've been running an oil consumption test with the dealer and have
> noticed something. Since I've had it in I have been driving very
> cautiously - never going over 2500 to 3000 rpm. It wasn't using up any
> oil (compared to a quart or two between changes). The last two days
> I've been running it up to 4K and I notice that when I start it the
> next time I get a puff of smoke. I'm betting it will go through oil
> now. A cracked ring (not piston) does make some sense to me with this
> kind of behavior. It does sound like my old 74' Ford truck when I had
> a collapsed lifter.


The valvetrain should be checked out. I don't see how a cracked ring
would make a ticking noise. if it's cracked and stays in the ring groove
I don't see how it would make any noise. Oil consumption may increase,
but I would imagine that would be it. If the piece is actually working
back and forth in the groove, it might 'tick' 4 times a revolution, it
would be a very fast tick. And then I would think in 12K miles you would
have a serious failure on your hands once it busted loose and really
caused damage.

I still think it's a valvetrain issue. Especially now that you say it
reminds you of a bad lifter. The valvetrain should be checked out before
tearing down the engine.



  #9  
Old February 19th 05, 03:59 AM
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Posts: n/a
Default


Leakdown test will reveal alot more info to base a diagnosis on. Who
knows, the dealer might have already done one (a leakdown).

I find the idea of a valvetrain problem plausible, and its **ALOT**
easier to have a look at. Pulling the valve covers on a DOHC looks time
consuming, but easily done with a fairly basic set of tools.

Doing some brief google research shows cobra shortblocks & longblocks
are not cheap;

http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/

Shortblocks running 4K and longblocks running 8K. Ouch. These are 'done
up' engines, so they probably a bit more pricey than a factory
replacement. I think FRPP sells complete (pan to intake/injectors) 99
cobra engines for around 5-6k (no catalog handy)?


Bottom line; the original poster owns a cobra, they are expensive to
buy, and are expensive to fix when they break. I would suggest that
he/she 'buck up' and fix it right, or get rid of it if he/she is not
prepared to pay the expense. Not trying to give anyone a hard time here,
but I see it as a simple economics thing...

Chris

('97 Rio Red Cobra Coupe)

Brent P wrote:
> In article .com>, cgun wrote:
>
>
>>I've been running an oil consumption test with the dealer and have
>>noticed something. Since I've had it in I have been driving very
>>cautiously - never going over 2500 to 3000 rpm. It wasn't using up any
>>oil (compared to a quart or two between changes). The last two days
>>I've been running it up to 4K and I notice that when I start it the
>>next time I get a puff of smoke. I'm betting it will go through oil
>>now. A cracked ring (not piston) does make some sense to me with this
>>kind of behavior. It does sound like my old 74' Ford truck when I had
>>a collapsed lifter.

>
>
> The valvetrain should be checked out. I don't see how a cracked ring
> would make a ticking noise. if it's cracked and stays in the ring groove
> I don't see how it would make any noise. Oil consumption may increase,
> but I would imagine that would be it. If the piece is actually working
> back and forth in the groove, it might 'tick' 4 times a revolution, it
> would be a very fast tick. And then I would think in 12K miles you would
> have a serious failure on your hands once it busted loose and really
> caused damage.
>
> I still think it's a valvetrain issue. Especially now that you say it
> reminds you of a bad lifter. The valvetrain should be checked out before
> tearing down the engine.
>
>
>

  #10  
Old February 19th 05, 05:30 PM
WindsorFox[SS]
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Posts: n/a
Default

Brent P wrote:

> In article . com>, cgun wrote:
>
>>I started noticing a ticking in my engine (50K miles). The dealer
>>tells me they think it is a cracked piston ring. Estimated repairs are
>>between $5K and $7K. I'm not really willing to put that much money
>>into this car. They say they need to pull the engine and rebuild it or
>>buy a crate motor.

>
>
> Sounds like BS to me. A cracked piston doesn't cause a 'tick' it shatters
> and sends shrapnel through the block, and then you look at the hole and
> wonder wtf went wrong.
>


Piston ring. Not piston. LOL I still agree though. There is a
very slight maybe that a cracked (broken) ring will cause that, but
you would also be burning oil too most likely. This is why I think
Ford should be fined for that crap ad about genuine Ford service...
"We're better" Batter than who? A jiffy lube staffed by 19 year olds??

--
2.3Sleeper: "Anyone know how to disable the daytime
running lights on a 2001 Crown Vic or on a 2002 GMC?"

SVTKate: "A ball peen hammer?"
 




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