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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
Whats the easiest procedure to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing
belt. Don't tell me take it to a dealer....They're horribly expensive and dont give good value for money. |
#2
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
Jacko wrote:
> Whats the easiest procedure to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing > belt. Don't tell me take it to a dealer....They're horribly expensive > and dont give good value for money. youre going to need a service manual regardless. the easiest procedure is going to be what the book says. |
#3
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
www.autozone.com 's free repair guides have instructions specific to your
1988 Accord for changing the timing belt. These other sites also discuss the changing of Honda timing belts and have step by step instructions: http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html http://timingbelt.soben.com/ http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/workshopmanuals2.html The biggest hurdle is probably going to be breaking free the crankshaft pulley bolt. Take a morning or day to figure out how to do it, then break it free, using the guides above and getting input from here. Subsequently schedule a day to do the whole timing belt job. "Jacko" > wrote > Whats the easiest procedure to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing > belt. Don't tell me take it to a dealer....They're horribly expensive > and dont give good value for money. |
#4
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
"Elle" > wrote in
nk.net: > www.autozone.com 's free repair guides have instructions specific to > your 1988 Accord for changing the timing belt. > > These other sites also discuss the changing of Honda timing belts and > have step by step instructions: > > http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html > > http://timingbelt.soben.com/ > > http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/workshopmanuals2.html > > The biggest hurdle is probably going to be breaking free the > crankshaft pulley bolt. For that reason this page exists: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#5
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
"TeGGeR®" > wrote
> "Elle" > wrote > > The biggest hurdle is probably going to be breaking free the > > crankshaft pulley bolt. > > > > For that reason this page exists: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt I don't reference this particular sub-site of your FAQ because I think the part of it on the tools one can buy or fabricate is not well done. It's mostly poor writing, and I think it doesn't get across the tool situation very well at all. I would be happy to redo it for you, but I don't want to step on your toes. I note this because when I was researching how to break free my 91 Civic's pulley bolt last year, I found a number of posts talked about the hex pipe homemade tool. But that isn't the type of setup my 91 Civic's pulley bolt has. Ultimately the thread got it straight that my Civic has the pulley with holes in it. Eric guided me to fabrication of an excellent tool for it, slightly modified because my Civic had the power steering pulley lip with which to contend, too. I did a lot of other research on this, finding tools commercially available and also at Ebay. (So far I prefer the tool that I ended up making for around ten bucks, with Eric's guidance.) |
#6
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
"Elle" > wrote in
k.net: > "TeGGeR®" > wrote >> "Elle" > wrote >> > The biggest hurdle is probably going to be breaking free the >> > crankshaft pulley bolt. >> >> >> >> For that reason this page exists: >> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt > > I don't reference this particular sub-site of your FAQ because I think > the part of it on the tools one can buy or fabricate is not well done. > It's mostly poor writing, and I think it doesn't get across the tool > situation very well at all. > > I would be happy to redo it for you, but I don't want to step on your > toes. By all means, if it's not well written, please redo it. The whole site depends on multiple inputs. Corrections of ANY kind NEVER, EVER step on my toes. The last thing I want is errors on the site. Errors cost credibility. Ego is not worth it if it leads to errors. I research this stuff as best I can, but sometimes I need to rely on a best-guess. I then count on others to alert me if errors get posted. You'd be amazed how few people actually let me know when they find mistakes. I once had one TSB link that led to the wrong TSB. According to my logs, that TSB was viewed some 50 times, and only ONE person notified me that the TSB referenced was not the one it should have led to. I thanked him and changed it immediately. Much of some portions of the site was written by others. Some is attributed, some (by request) is not. The igniter pages are prime examples: My helper there refuses to be publicly identified. There have been submissions from others that have been impossible to substantiate. These I have not put up, erring on the side of caution and credibility. > > I note this because when I was researching how to break free my 91 > Civic's pulley bolt last year, I found a number of posts talked about > the hex pipe homemade tool. But that isn't the type of setup my 91 > Civic's pulley bolt has. Perfectly true. Some of them don't have that hex. Again, I don't know unless someone tells me. How to get those loose? I don't know unless someone tells me, or unless I read it in the groups. I'm not a machine, and I will miss stuff as I read through the group's messages. I was away for three weeks back in the summer. I have no idea what I missed then. > Ultimately the thread got it straight that my > Civic has the pulley with holes in it. Eric guided me to fabrication > of an excellent tool for it, slightly modified because my Civic had > the power steering pulley lip with which to contend, too. Please elaborate. By the way, I wish you'd got pics of your spark plug tube seal replacement. I'm going to add your text to a new section on that, but I'll have to rely on diagrams instead of photographs. It's a question that comes up often enough to warrant addition to the FAQ. > > I did a lot of other research on this, finding tools commercially > available and also at Ebay. (So far I prefer the tool that I ended up > making for around ten bucks, with Eric's guidance.) You may not believe this, but I have no ego whatsoever when it comes to this site. I was asked by John Ings to take it on before he died, and it's become sort of a part-time job for me as I keep my promise to John. I am a home mechanic, and not a professional, a fact that has not ever been any kind of secret. I have repeatedly and freely acknowledged (and solicited) the input of other's experiences, and have posted them as needed. What is not mine is openly attributed to those who have submitted it. You have publicly objected to several parts of my site, but have so far offered no corrections. A number of others have both objected AND offered (even with diagrams and photos) corrections, ALL of which I have posted as updates. An example: The igniter test that required a dwell meter. John Ings wrote that part. He had incorrectly attributed the test procedure to someone named "Oak". You pointed this out as a criticism of the site, but offered no correction at all, even after I requested that you do so. I asked you to tell me who had actually written that quote, and received no reply. I then did some digging myself, and discovered the quote actually came from "Rob Relf". I then corrected that page, as you'll notice if you go there. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html (3/4 of the way down) The Unofficial Honda FAQ is supposed to be CORRECT, PERIOD. It is NOT supposed to be a forum for my own opinions. Some pages are my opinions, based on fact as far as I can determine, and I stand ready to correct that which can be shown to be wrong. You find mistakes? TELL ME. I NEED submissions. I only have one car myself. Any other experiences I have come from working on others' cars, or from submissions I receive from others. I have NO ego and a very thick skin. I've been on Usenet for quite a few years and am very used to criticism and MORE than eager to fix mistakes. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#7
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
"TeGGeR®" > wrote
> "Elle" > wrote > > "TeGGeR®" > wrote > >> "Elle" > wrote > >> > The biggest hurdle is probably going to be breaking free the > >> > crankshaft pulley bolt. > >> > >> > >> > >> For that reason this page exists: > >> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt > > > > I don't reference this particular sub-site of your FAQ because I think > > the part of it on the tools one can buy or fabricate is not well done. > > It's mostly poor writing, and I think it doesn't get across the tool > > situation very well at all. > > > > I would be happy to redo it for you, but I don't want to step on your > > toes. > > > By all means, if it's not well written, please redo it. The whole site > depends on multiple inputs. > > Corrections of ANY kind NEVER, EVER step on my toes. The last thing I want > is errors on the site. Errors cost credibility. It's not errors (at least not in this instance), IMO, just lack of clarity. > Ego is not worth it if it > leads to errors. I research this stuff as best I can, but sometimes I need > to rely on a best-guess. I then count on others to alert me if errors get > posted. You'd be amazed how few people actually let me know when they find > mistakes. > > I once had one TSB link that led to the wrong TSB. According to my logs, > that TSB was viewed some 50 times, and only ONE person notified me that the > TSB referenced was not the one it should have led to. I thanked him and > changed it immediately. > > Much of some portions of the site was written by others. Some is > attributed, some (by request) is not. The igniter pages are prime examples: > My helper there refuses to be publicly identified. > There have been submissions from others that have been impossible to > substantiate. These I have not put up, erring on the side of caution and > credibility. > > > > > > I note this because when I was researching how to break free my 91 > > Civic's pulley bolt last year, I found a number of posts talked about > > the hex pipe homemade tool. But that isn't the type of setup my 91 > > Civic's pulley bolt has. > > > Perfectly true. Some of them don't have that hex. The sub-site does note this, just not all that clearly, IMO. > Again, I don't know > unless someone tells me. How to get those loose? I don't know unless > someone tells me, or unless I read it in the groups. > > I'm not a machine, and I will miss stuff as I read through the group's > messages. My intent, believe it or not, was not to shoot down your site or you. I hope you bear in mind all the praise people routinely and understandably heap upon the "Unofficial FAQ" site. I think I'm the only one who has some hesitancy to refer people to it. Obviously, I'm a rookie in most of these areas, compared to Curly, SoCalMike, Jim, Eric, NE Ohio Bob, several others I regret I can't name off the top of my head, and of course yourself. So arguably my opinion should count even less. My standards for communicating technical material are high. In addition, because of what I think is a very different background, I think I communicate in a way that a lot of old hands (mostly men, by coincidence) find different. > I was away for three weeks back in the summer. I have no idea > what I missed then. > > > Ultimately the thread got it straight that my > > Civic has the pulley with holes in it. Eric guided me to fabrication > > of an excellent tool for it, slightly modified because my Civic had > > the power steering pulley lip with which to contend, too. > > > Please elaborate. > > By the way, I wish you'd got pics of your spark plug tube seal replacement. > I'm going to add your text to a new section on that, but I'll have to rely > on diagrams instead of photographs. It's a question that comes up often > enough to warrant addition to the FAQ. I agree that the spark plug tube oil leak problem etc. should be an FAQ, touching upon both the easy upper seal and the more involved lower seal. IMO, Majestic's (or slhonda.com's) diagram of the lower seals, combined with the instructions for removing the rocker arm/shaft assembly, with maybe a bit of tweaking from my notes and/or your notes, treat the subject quite well. I am halfway to buying a digital camera because I want to show off my Eric-patented, Elle-modified crankshaft pulley holder and bolt removal tool. > > I did a lot of other research on this, finding tools commercially > > available and also at Ebay. (So far I prefer the tool that I ended up > > making for around ten bucks, with Eric's guidance.) > > > You may not believe this, but I have no ego whatsoever when it comes to > this site. I was asked by John Ings to take it on before he died, and it's > become sort of a part-time job for me as I keep my promise to John. > > I am a home mechanic, and not a professional, a fact that has not ever been > any kind of secret. I have repeatedly and freely acknowledged (and > solicited) the input of other's experiences, and have posted them as > needed. What is not mine is openly attributed to those who have submitted > it. > > You have publicly objected to several parts of my site, but have so far > offered no corrections. You're right that one who criticizes should certainly offer to correct the problem him/erself. Also, I realize it's no easy task to maintain such a site. By way of some sort of explanation, and FWIW: We had quite a row over the PCV valve issue some years ago. I remain at a loss over it. I am not happy with what your site says about it. I don't want to repeat this row. Hence my silence on this point. I appreciate what you say about not wanting to inject ego, but if you are really convinced the PCV valve FAQ discussion is fair to the subject, then you're entitled to your opinion and so should stick by what's at the site. > A number of others have both objected AND offered > (even with diagrams and photos) corrections, ALL of which I have posted as > updates. That's a lot of work, and again, I hope you remember all the people who compliment your efforts as incredibly useful. > An example: The igniter test that required a dwell meter. John Ings wrote > that part. He had incorrectly attributed the test procedure to someone > named "Oak". You pointed this out as a criticism of the site, but offered > no correction at all, even after I requested that you do so. First, I thought you could groups.google and easily find out who had written the test procedure. Two, hate me, but there was another person involved in the igniter discussions here at the newsgroup who sent me a private email that was do distasteful I wanted no affiliation with anything he did. I mentioned this in the past. I think he's involved with this part of your site. Plus, I don't have anything in particular to offer the ignitor section, anyway, without one helluva lot of effort. Electronics is my weak point, besides. To me, ignitors break. There's a test or two out there to confirm they're broken. Once confirmed, slap another in there. OTOH, having my own engineering subject area passions (e.g. thermodynamics and mechanics of materials), I can understand how someone would love dissecting the operation of the ignitor and comparing it to the old fashioned way ("points"). > I asked you to > tell me who had actually written that quote, and received no reply. I then > did some digging myself, and discovered the quote actually came from "Rob > Relf". I then corrected that page, as you'll notice if you go there. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html > (3/4 of the way down) Well done. > The Unofficial Honda FAQ is supposed to be CORRECT, PERIOD. It is NOT > supposed to be a forum for my own opinions. Some pages are my opinions, > based on fact as far as I can determine, and I stand ready to correct that > which can be shown to be wrong. Aside from the helpful technical info, I got a kick out of NE Ohio Bob's camshaft table photos. (Been wanting to mention that for a while!) ;-) I'll put together a site on the crankshaft pulley bolt, temporarily post it (like for the next year or so), and you can use it as you like. I'll try to make it blend with what you have already at your site, so you can copy and paste as easily as possible. Seems like the two Usenet Honda auto newsgroups have a rather amazing reputation among auto newsgroups for helping people with their cars. You should take a lot of credit for that. |
#8
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
"TeGGeR®" > wrote in message ...
> I once had one TSB link that led to the wrong TSB. According to my logs, > that TSB was viewed some 50 times, and only ONE person notified me that the > TSB referenced was not the one it should have led to. I thanked him and > changed it immediately. The Pdf http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...n-car-test.pdf located here http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...r-testing.html contains and display errors. This is what I see. http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/2...cartest5ry.gif I've seen an original PDF like this before but can't say I have since I can't make out exactly what make/model/year the error pdf is from. |
#9
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
TeGGeR® wrote:
> You find mistakes? TELL ME. I NEED submissions. I only have one car myself. > Any other experiences I have come from working on others' cars, or from > submissions I receive from others. I have NO ego and a very thick skin. > I've been on Usenet for quite a few years and am very used to criticism > and MORE than eager to fix mistakes. Have you ever thought of setting the site up using a "Wiki" back-end? Might make ongoing maintenance easier, and add better support for searching and indexing and such. --- avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 0543-2, 10/27/2005 Tested on: 10/28/2005 7:50:05 AM avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software. http://www.avast.com |
#10
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to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
"Elle" > wrote
> The biggest hurdle is probably going to be breaking free the crankshaft > pulley bolt. Take a morning or day to figure out how to do it, then break it > free, using the guides above and getting input from here. Subsequently > schedule a day to do the whole timing belt job. For the archives, since it hasn't been said enough: If one does break the pulley bolt free using a pulley holding tool, spend the money for two, 3/4-inch, roughly ten inch long extensions and a 3/4-inch drive breaker bar. This is as opposed to using 1/2 inch drives. (You'll destroy 3/8-inch drives, applying over 300 ft-lbs of torque, typically, to break that pulley bolt free.) Just wanted to get this into the archives, since it's only been mentioned once I think. Credit to Jim Beam for urging this. Using 3/4-inch diameter yada instead of 1/2-inch diameter yada reduces the angular windup (angular deflection of the extensions) from something like 45 degrees, theoretically, to about 9 degrees. I have confirmed the roughly 45 degrees of windup with my 91 Civic's crankshaft pulley bolt, assuming about 300 ft-lbs of torque. Forty-five degrees of windup in a piece of steel is a lot of stored energy, ready to whip back at the operator, if s/he isn't very careful. I lay out pillows for this job, and after being hit in the leg once accidentally when loosening/tightening the bolt, I take that windup seriously. Anyone knowing a good source for 3/4-inch drives, do post. I found I think a 3/4-inch breaker bar the other day at Pep Boys, but not extensions to go with it. I haven't gone intensively looking for these, though. |
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