What do I need to change my 2 barrel to a 4 barrel

two more barrels:--)

look here,

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&i...arrel+carb+kit

mho
vƒe

>double dog dare you, sound familiar?

>to reduce your driving by *-**10%.

malbern wrote:
> I have a 1970 fury lll convertible, it has a 318 2 barrel. I have a
> holly aluminum intake with a edelbroke 4 barrel carburetor that I plan
> on putting on this summer.
> Can anyone tell me what is in a kit to convert from a 2 barrel to a 4
> barrel? I what to make sure that I have everything I need before I take
> it apart.
>


-You'll need the manifold- you've got that.
-You'll need an air cleaner. One that fits under the hood and clears all
the linkages. Aftermarket open element units are available, but they're
noisy. I prefer to junkyard dive for OEM type air cleaners.
-You'll need a transmission kickdown linkage (I'd get the complete
assembly, including throttle cable and the bracket that mounts to the
manifold. A good donor is a 4-bbl Diplomat or Gran Fury copcar. Failing
that, you can get a Lockar kickdown cable kit.
- You'll need fuel line. Use either a hard line or FUEL INJECTION hose.
Do not make a long run out of regular "fuel line" hose sold at part
stores- if you're going to run that much rubber line use fuel injection
rated hose.

malbern wrote:

> The 318 never did come with a 4bbl carb,so the
> linkage has me a little worried.
>

Sure it did. 80s M-body copcars. Or use parts of a 360 4-bbl pickup
truck. The 318 and 360 are dimensionally identical, and anything that
bolts onto a 360 (above the oil pan, anyway) will bolt on a 318.

malbern wrote:

> I already have duel exhaust, I was told that headers for my C-body are
> hard to fine. I have been looking but can't seem to get any for my 1970
> C-body.
>

Look again:

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/

But you don't NEED headers. A 4-bbl and dual exhaust (don't forget the
crossover!) are a nice mild wake-up for a 318. To take full advantage of
headers, you'd really need a bigger than stock cam and exhaust port
work. Headers won't HURT, but put your money elsewhere first.

malbern wrote:
> I have a 1970 fury lll convertible, it has a 318 2 barrel. I have a
> holly aluminum intake with a edelbroke 4 barrel carburetor that I plan
> on putting on this summer.
> Can anyone tell me what is in a kit to convert from a 2 barrel to a 4
> barrel? I what to make sure that I have everything I need before I take
> it apart.
>


All of the above PLUS:

VERY,VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!

DO NOT DISREGARD!!!!!!

After the install,if you cannot adjust the kickdown linkage properly
yourself, tow, do not drive, your car to a transmission shop and have
them do it. It MUST be adjusted properly.


See also:


http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html

for carb tuning information.

You may need a PCV valve for a 4BBL 318, from an early 80's 318 4BBL cop
car.(maybe a different hose also)

How about the choke? Is it electric? If so, don't tap into the ignition
coil to drive it. (A common mistake.)

Speaking of which, convert to an electronic ignition if you can afford it.

Here's some wiring info:

http://www.225.ca/tech/images/js005.jpg (I2 is start, I1 is run)

Junkyard parts will be cheaper.

(control box, wiring harness, coil and distributor )

use a new ballast resistor


Does the old carb have an idle solenoid for A/C? You may need to do a
little rigging for that.

Make sure all the old vacuum lines are connected to the proper vacuum
types, i.e. ported or direct.

A can of carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks.

New thermostat, housing, gasket and coolant?

If possible, use washers under the manifold to head bolts if the bolts
don't have a flange. Aluminum tears easily.



HTH

--
Steve Walker
(remove wallet to reply)

Steve Walker wrote:
> malbern wrote:
>
>> I have a 1970 fury lll convertible, it has a 318 2 barrel. I have a
>> holly aluminum intake with a edelbroke 4 barrel carburetor that I plan
>> on putting on this summer.
>> Can anyone tell me what is in a kit to convert from a 2 barrel to a 4
>> barrel? I what to make sure that I have everything I need before I take
>> it apart.
>>
>
>
> All of the above PLUS:
>
> VERY,VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
>
> DO NOT DISREGARD!!!!!!
>
> After the install,if you cannot adjust the kickdown linkage properly
> yourself, tow, do not drive, your car to a transmission shop and have
> them do it. It MUST be adjusted properly.
>
>
> See also:
>
>
> http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html
>
> for carb tuning information.
>
> You may need a PCV valve for a 4BBL 318, from an early 80's 318 4BBL cop
> car.(maybe a different hose also)
>
> How about the choke? Is it electric? If so, don't tap into the ignition
> coil to drive it. (A common mistake.)
>
> Speaking of which, convert to an electronic ignition if you can afford it.
>
> Here's some wiring info:
>
> http://www.225.ca/tech/images/js005.jpg (I2 is start, I1 is run)
>
> Junkyard parts will be cheaper.
>
> (control box, wiring harness, coil and distributor )
>
> use a new ballast resistor
>
>
> Does the old carb have an idle solenoid for A/C? You may need to do a
> little rigging for that.
>
> Make sure all the old vacuum lines are connected to the proper vacuum
> types, i.e. ported or direct.
>
> A can of carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks.
>
> New thermostat, housing, gasket and coolant?
>
> If possible, use washers under the manifold to head bolts if the bolts
> don't have a flange. Aluminum tears easily.
>
>
>
> HTH
>

For the last, I've found that having an assortment of AN washers around
is handy, sometimes manifolds have machined "pockets" for the bolts in
which SAE washers won't fit. I like stainless, but always use
anti-seize with stainless hardware.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

"Steve" > wrote in message

> But you don't NEED headers. A 4-bbl and dual exhaust (don't forget the
> crossover!) are a nice mild wake-up for a 318. To take full advantage of
> headers, you'd really need a bigger than stock cam and exhaust port
> work. Headers won't HURT, but put your money elsewhere first.

Steve,
Wasn't there a 340 cid engine available about that time which was
essentially
the 318 punched out? Seems that I helped a friend swap a 340 in place of
his
318 in a Duster, but may be confused. I know for sure he installed a 4
barrel on it.

With all the modifications he eventually performed, this project evolved to
a
monster. He could lift the front wheels off the ground - seriously- in low
gear.

> wrote in message
. com...

> Wasn't there a 340 cid engine available about that time which was
> essentially
> the 318 punched out? Seems that I helped a friend swap a 340 in place of
> his
> 318 in a Duster, but may be confused. I know for sure he installed a 4
> barrel on it.
>
> With all the modifications he eventually performed, this project evolved
to
> a
> monster. He could lift the front wheels off the ground - seriously- in
low
> gear.

Im going to answer my own post. Researched it and found the 340 Dodge was
available around the OPs model date. It was rated at 275 BHP and with a
little
tweaking could put out a lot more than that. I believe that manifolds, and
many
other parts interchange with the 318.

In article > ,
> wrote:

> Im going to answer my own post. Researched it and found the 340 Dodge was
> available around the OPs model date. It was rated at 275 BHP and with a

And 290 BHP.

> little
> tweaking could put out a lot more than that. I believe that manifolds, and
> many
> other parts interchange with the 318.

Original intake and exhaust manifolds are rarer than hens teeth,
(read, pricey).
Yes, parts will interchange, the intake manifold will fit but
there will be a severe port mis-match, exhaust manifolds off of a
71-72 C-body 360 will fit the 318 and flow a lot better than the
318 manifolds. 360 "J" heads flow as well as the 340 heads and
are still found in salvage yards, one needs to be careful with
them on a 318 WRT valve size, too big of valve and you have
shrouding problems with the cylinder wall.

And no, the 340 wasn't a punched out 318 any more than a Chebby
350 is/was a punched out 265.

"aarcuda69062" > wrote in message
...

> And no, the 340 wasn't a punched out 318 any more than a Chebby
> 350 is/was a punched out 265.

Would look like basically a bore job. Stroke was 3.31, bore was 3.91 on
the 318 and 4.04 on the 340.

318 (5.2) 1967-2002 3.31 3.91
340 1968-73 3.31 4.04





What are the other differences, Aarcuda?