crackling speakers

94 XLT, speakers are crackling even after changing unit. Can this be a
built in amp that is causing problem,. If so,, can a backyard mechanic
like myself fix it by getting one from the wreckers, please help, my
teenage daughter is going to bonk me if I don't fix it lol. thanks.

If you replaced the head unit, you don't need your factory amp any more.
You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp unless you really
want to splice or solder, not worth the trouble IMHO. I know cutchfield.com
sells the wiring harness you need.

"tigerweeds" > wrote in message
ps.com...
> 94 XLT, speakers are crackling even after changing unit. Can this be a
> built in amp that is causing problem,. If so,, can a backyard mechanic
> like myself fix it by getting one from the wreckers, please help, my
> teenage daughter is going to bonk me if I don't fix it lol. thanks.
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

If all of speakers are crackling, it is probably an Amp issue. If it is
only one speaker - the wiring from the speaker through the door jamb to the
interior probably has a bad spot from the opening of the door.


"Captain Coleman" > wrote in message
.. .
> If you replaced the head unit, you don't need your factory amp any more.
> You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp unless you really
> want to splice or solder, not worth the trouble IMHO. I know
> cutchfield.com sells the wiring harness you need.
>
> "tigerweeds" > wrote in message
> ps.com...
>> 94 XLT, speakers are crackling even after changing unit. Can this be a
>> built in amp that is causing problem,. If so,, can a backyard mechanic
>> like myself fix it by getting one from the wreckers, please help, my
>> teenage daughter is going to bonk me if I don't fix it lol. thanks.
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>

i have same problem on right speaker and all i did was remove door
panel and clean contact then plug back in that should work or replace
speker unit.
Randy Johnson wrote:
> If all of speakers are crackling, it is probably an Amp issue. If it is
> only one speaker - the wiring from the speaker through the door jamb to the
> interior probably has a bad spot from the opening of the door.
>
>
> "Captain Coleman" > wrote in message
> .. .
> > If you replaced the head unit, you don't need your factory amp any more.
> > You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp unless you really
> > want to splice or solder, not worth the trouble IMHO. I know
> > cutchfield.com sells the wiring harness you need.
> >
> > "tigerweeds" > wrote in message
> > ps.com...
> >> 94 XLT, speakers are crackling even after changing unit. Can this be a
> >> built in amp that is causing problem,. If so,, can a backyard mechanic
> >> like myself fix it by getting one from the wreckers, please help, my
> >> teenage daughter is going to bonk me if I don't fix it lol. thanks.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> >

thanks yarrrrgh for that highly informative wiring blueprint. I have
had my xlt in the pro. stereo shop for installation of my jvc unit.
When I was there I told them about the crackling, so they sold me the
wiring harness that goes behind the unit(I guess). $80 something
dollars later still crackling. I went back and he said for another $80
they will fix crackling by bypassing the amp like you said . So for
$160 or more I can have good sound, (why didn't he say this at the
beggining), well anyways thanks for the advice, maybe next summer(it's
freezing here in Canada now) I will try your project.
yarrrrrgh wrote:
> To Captian Coleman alone:
> If the reasoning behind your post was allowing for the speakers
> "crackling" due to the Ford amp being overdriven (clipping the input),
> then you were certainly on the right track, and the following wouldn't
> apply.
>
> I'm posting this from the standpoint that he has an amplifier with
> problems (or damage) -and to me, if that's the case, the POS isnt
> worth repairing (or even using in the first place if you have an
> aftermarket head unit of any decenct account) lol
>
>
> On Mon, 4 Dec 2006 14:28:17 -0600, "Captain Coleman"
> > wrote:
>
> >If you replaced the head unit, you don't need your factory amp any more.
> >You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp unless you really
> >want to splice or solder, not worth the trouble IMHO. I know cutchfield.com
> >sells the wiring harness you need.
>
>
> Nice idea but...not "entirely" accurate. (no offense)
>
> I have the same truck (94 XLT), and there would be nothing for any
> replacement harness to plug *into* at least per your quote:
> >"You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp"
>
> The only "factory adaptors that I've seen at Crutchfield and the like,
> do NOT bypass the amp (without running wires). They simply adapt
> speaker-level output from your aftermarket stereo, to the oddball
> fixed-input level design that Ford decided to lock everyone into.
>
> That is, the signal that Ford's built in amp requires is neither
> speaker level, nor RCA-level. It's somwhere in between.
>
> There's only two ways to *truly* "bypass" the factory amp.
> One requires running 4 separate pairs of wires. One from each door
> speaker to the area that the head unit rests in. OR the the way that I
> ended up doing things. (which was a time/frustration saver, as opposed
> to running things 100% dash to speaker)
>
> I didn't fancy the idea of having to go through each individual door
> jam assembly. So, while I was considering the task of running 4
> separate lines to each door (and then obviously to where the head unit
> rests)...I stumbled across a "central harness" point that allows you
> to tap into all 4 speakers at one convenient junction.
>
> Bottom line: I still had to run 4 pairs of wires, but averted having
> to go into each individual door!!! (I simply ran the pairs from the
> stereo in the dash to the area between the passenger side doors).
>
> If you would like to do the same, there's a quick-connect point that's
> at the base (under the floor/side panel molding) between the passenger
> side doors (in the dividing frame, the same one that the rear pass.
> door mounts to).
>
> You have to remove the single piece of floor molding (that extends up
> the sidewall) on the passenger side, but once you do, you should be
> able to see a little opaque-white connection box, that feeds both the
> amp, and the speakers. It'll have roughly 10-12 wires. (hint: it's not
> within the wiring loom that feeds nearest the rear passenger door
> rail.) I don't remember if I used the male or female side of that
> connector, but one side comes FROM the amp, and the other goes to the
> speakers. At least Ford afforded us that much! A nice little tap
> point!
>
> Sorry that I didn't retain the wiring pinout that I created while
> sorting out which wires went to which speakers (color codes and
> polairty) once the job was finished... I even thought about it.
> I just figured... no one here would want to go to the same trouble I
> went to for the sake of "quality sound". (translation: for most, it'd
> make more sense to just pay some stereo joint to have it installed.)
> But if you have the basic knowledge of how to install a stereo
> properly, it shouldn't be too hard to trace speaker wires...
>
> Something told me to save that little piece of paper...
>
>
> >"tigerweeds" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
> >> 94 XLT, speakers are crackling even after changing unit. Can this be a
> >> built in amp that is causing problem,. If so,, can a backyard mechanic
> >> like myself fix it by getting one from the wreckers, please help, my
> >> teenage daughter is going to bonk me if I don't fix it lol. thanks.
> >>

Hi there -

You sound like you have a couple of things going on.

There are three different wiring harnesses available -

The first one is a pigtail unit that allows you to wire your head unit
to connector plugs that plug directly into the factory dash wiring.

The second one is that you can wire in to decrease the output from your
head unit and is wired between the head unit and the pigtail unit mentioned
above.

The third one is the amp bypass unit. This allows you to unplug both of
the connectors that plug into the factory amp and bypass it. No wiring is
necessary. The amp is located in the side panel in the right rear of the
the truck.

I tracked down a JBL amp/subwoofer unit and added this to my '94. It
replaces the factory amp and add the amp/subwoofer to your system. You do
need to run a full time power source to the amp to run it - this is standard
if your truck has the JBL system.

My local Checker auto parts store has the first pigtail and the third
one packaged together for something like $16.00.

You could bypass the amp and see if that is your issue very easily -
although it is fun to pull the panel to get to the amp.

Hope this helps,

Randy


"tigerweeds" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> thanks yarrrrgh for that highly informative wiring blueprint. I have
> had my xlt in the pro. stereo shop for installation of my jvc unit.
> When I was there I told them about the crackling, so they sold me the
> wiring harness that goes behind the unit(I guess). $80 something
> dollars later still crackling. I went back and he said for another $80
> they will fix crackling by bypassing the amp like you said . So for
> $160 or more I can have good sound, (why didn't he say this at the
> beggining), well anyways thanks for the advice, maybe next summer(it's
> freezing here in Canada now) I will try your project.
> yarrrrrgh wrote:
>> To Captian Coleman alone:
>> If the reasoning behind your post was allowing for the speakers
>> "crackling" due to the Ford amp being overdriven (clipping the input),
>> then you were certainly on the right track, and the following wouldn't
>> apply.
>>
>> I'm posting this from the standpoint that he has an amplifier with
>> problems (or damage) -and to me, if that's the case, the POS isnt
>> worth repairing (or even using in the first place if you have an
>> aftermarket head unit of any decenct account) lol
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 4 Dec 2006 14:28:17 -0600, "Captain Coleman"
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >If you replaced the head unit, you don't need your factory amp any more.
>> >You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp unless you
>> >really
>> >want to splice or solder, not worth the trouble IMHO. I know
>> >cutchfield.com
>> >sells the wiring harness you need.
>>
>>
>> Nice idea but...not "entirely" accurate. (no offense)
>>
>> I have the same truck (94 XLT), and there would be nothing for any
>> replacement harness to plug *into* at least per your quote:
>> >"You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp"
>>
>> The only "factory adaptors that I've seen at Crutchfield and the like,
>> do NOT bypass the amp (without running wires). They simply adapt
>> speaker-level output from your aftermarket stereo, to the oddball
>> fixed-input level design that Ford decided to lock everyone into.
>>
>> That is, the signal that Ford's built in amp requires is neither
>> speaker level, nor RCA-level. It's somwhere in between.
>>
>> There's only two ways to *truly* "bypass" the factory amp.
>> One requires running 4 separate pairs of wires. One from each door
>> speaker to the area that the head unit rests in. OR the the way that I
>> ended up doing things. (which was a time/frustration saver, as opposed
>> to running things 100% dash to speaker)
>>
>> I didn't fancy the idea of having to go through each individual door
>> jam assembly. So, while I was considering the task of running 4
>> separate lines to each door (and then obviously to where the head unit
>> rests)...I stumbled across a "central harness" point that allows you
>> to tap into all 4 speakers at one convenient junction.
>>
>> Bottom line: I still had to run 4 pairs of wires, but averted having
>> to go into each individual door!!! (I simply ran the pairs from the
>> stereo in the dash to the area between the passenger side doors).
>>
>> If you would like to do the same, there's a quick-connect point that's
>> at the base (under the floor/side panel molding) between the passenger
>> side doors (in the dividing frame, the same one that the rear pass.
>> door mounts to).
>>
>> You have to remove the single piece of floor molding (that extends up
>> the sidewall) on the passenger side, but once you do, you should be
>> able to see a little opaque-white connection box, that feeds both the
>> amp, and the speakers. It'll have roughly 10-12 wires. (hint: it's not
>> within the wiring loom that feeds nearest the rear passenger door
>> rail.) I don't remember if I used the male or female side of that
>> connector, but one side comes FROM the amp, and the other goes to the
>> speakers. At least Ford afforded us that much! A nice little tap
>> point!
>>
>> Sorry that I didn't retain the wiring pinout that I created while
>> sorting out which wires went to which speakers (color codes and
>> polairty) once the job was finished... I even thought about it.
>> I just figured... no one here would want to go to the same trouble I
>> went to for the sake of "quality sound". (translation: for most, it'd
>> make more sense to just pay some stereo joint to have it installed.)
>> But if you have the basic knowledge of how to install a stereo
>> properly, it shouldn't be too hard to trace speaker wires...
>>
>> Something told me to save that little piece of paper...
>>
>>
>> >"tigerweeds" > wrote in message
>> ups.com...
>> >> 94 XLT, speakers are crackling even after changing unit. Can this be a
>> >> built in amp that is causing problem,. If so,, can a backyard mechanic
>> >> like myself fix it by getting one from the wreckers, please help, my
>> >> teenage daughter is going to bonk me if I don't fix it lol. thanks.
>> >>
>

Hi there -

Checker goes under different names in different parts of the country.

Main web page is www.cskauto.com


Randy

"yarrrrrgh" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 08:21:10 -0600, "Randy Johnson"
> > wrote:
>
>>Hi there -
>
> <snip>
>
>> The third one is the amp bypass unit. This allows you to unplug both
>> of
>>the connectors that plug into the factory amp and bypass it. No wiring is
>>necessary. The amp is located in the side panel in the right rear of the
>>the truck.
>
> Well!! An old dog learned somethin new! *chuckles*
> 'Preciate the info Randy!
>
> Everywhere I've checked around these parts doesnt have such a harness
> though. :/
>
> Even though the job's already done, I'd much rather have used the
> above method.
>
>> My local Checker auto parts store has the first pigtail and the third
>>one packaged together for something like $16.00.
>
> Any chance of a link (if they have an online presence) to the harness?
> I'd like to keep the option available for the future...
>
> Sadly, no Checker Auto Parts in these parts, nor have I even heard of
> them before now. Are they a local only chain, or nationwide
> (regional)?
>
> TIA
>
>> You could bypass the amp and see if that is your issue very easily -
>>although it is fun to pull the panel to get to the amp.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Randy
>>
>>
>>"tigerweeds" > wrote in message
groups.com...
>>> thanks yarrrrgh for that highly informative wiring blueprint. I have
>>> had my xlt in the pro. stereo shop for installation of my jvc unit.
>>> When I was there I told them about the crackling, so they sold me the
>>> wiring harness that goes behind the unit(I guess). $80 something
>>> dollars later still crackling. I went back and he said for another $80
>>> they will fix crackling by bypassing the amp like you said . So for
>>> $160 or more I can have good sound, (why didn't he say this at the
>>> beggining), well anyways thanks for the advice, maybe next summer(it's
>>> freezing here in Canada now) I will try your project.
>>> yarrrrrgh wrote:
>>>> To Captian Coleman alone:
>>>> If the reasoning behind your post was allowing for the speakers
>>>> "crackling" due to the Ford amp being overdriven (clipping the input),
>>>> then you were certainly on the right track, and the following wouldn't
>>>> apply.
>>>>
>>>> I'm posting this from the standpoint that he has an amplifier with
>>>> problems (or damage) -and to me, if that's the case, the POS isnt
>>>> worth repairing (or even using in the first place if you have an
>>>> aftermarket head unit of any decenct account) lol
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, 4 Dec 2006 14:28:17 -0600, "Captain Coleman"
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >If you replaced the head unit, you don't need your factory amp any
>>>> >more.
>>>> >You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp unless you
>>>> >really
>>>> >want to splice or solder, not worth the trouble IMHO. I know
>>>> >cutchfield.com
>>>> >sells the wiring harness you need.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Nice idea but...not "entirely" accurate. (no offense)
>>>>
>>>> I have the same truck (94 XLT), and there would be nothing for any
>>>> replacement harness to plug *into* at least per your quote:
>>>> >"You will need a wiring harness to bypass the factory amp"
>>>>
>>>> The only "factory adaptors that I've seen at Crutchfield and the like,
>>>> do NOT bypass the amp (without running wires). They simply adapt
>>>> speaker-level output from your aftermarket stereo, to the oddball
>>>> fixed-input level design that Ford decided to lock everyone into.
>>>>
>>>> That is, the signal that Ford's built in amp requires is neither
>>>> speaker level, nor RCA-level. It's somwhere in between.
>>>>
>>>> There's only two ways to *truly* "bypass" the factory amp.
>>>> One requires running 4 separate pairs of wires. One from each door
>>>> speaker to the area that the head unit rests in. OR the the way that I
>>>> ended up doing things. (which was a time/frustration saver, as opposed
>>>> to running things 100% dash to speaker)
>>>>
>>>> I didn't fancy the idea of having to go through each individual door
>>>> jam assembly. So, while I was considering the task of running 4
>>>> separate lines to each door (and then obviously to where the head unit
>>>> rests)...I stumbled across a "central harness" point that allows you
>>>> to tap into all 4 speakers at one convenient junction.
>>>>
>>>> Bottom line: I still had to run 4 pairs of wires, but averted having
>>>> to go into each individual door!!! (I simply ran the pairs from the
>>>> stereo in the dash to the area between the passenger side doors).
>>>>
>>>> If you would like to do the same, there's a quick-connect point that's
>>>> at the base (under the floor/side panel molding) between the passenger
>>>> side doors (in the dividing frame, the same one that the rear pass.
>>>> door mounts to).
>>>>
>>>> You have to remove the single piece of floor molding (that extends up
>>>> the sidewall) on the passenger side, but once you do, you should be
>>>> able to see a little opaque-white connection box, that feeds both the
>>>> amp, and the speakers. It'll have roughly 10-12 wires. (hint: it's not
>>>> within the wiring loom that feeds nearest the rear passenger door
>>>> rail.) I don't remember if I used the male or female side of that
>>>> connector, but one side comes FROM the amp, and the other goes to the
>>>> speakers. At least Ford afforded us that much! A nice little tap
>>>> point!
>>>>
>>>> Sorry that I didn't retain the wiring pinout that I created while
>>>> sorting out which wires went to which speakers (color codes and
>>>> polairty) once the job was finished... I even thought about it.
>>>> I just figured... no one here would want to go to the same trouble I
>>>> went to for the sake of "quality sound". (translation: for most, it'd
>>>> make more sense to just pay some stereo joint to have it installed.)
>>>> But if you have the basic knowledge of how to install a stereo
>>>> properly, it shouldn't be too hard to trace speaker wires...
>>>>
>>>> Something told me to save that little piece of paper...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >"tigerweeds" > wrote in message
>>>> ups.com...
>>>> >> 94 XLT, speakers are crackling even after changing unit. Can this be
>>>> >> a
>>>> >> built in amp that is causing problem,. If so,, can a backyard
>>>> >> mechanic
>>>> >> like myself fix it by getting one from the wreckers, please help, my
>>>> >> teenage daughter is going to bonk me if I don't fix it lol. thanks.
>>>> >>
>>>
>>