DIY anti theft advice

I am trying to work out the best way to easily immobilise my type 2. I
would like to have a hidden switch inside the van probably at the back
somewhere that immobilises the ignition and turns on an flashing LED
on the dash. I think its best if it is still possible to turn the
engine over with the key or if hotwired so that the thief thinks they
are getting it started but of course it won't. I don't want to have to
get into the engine bay each time and remove the rotor arm or other
wire as I know I just won't do it every time.

I have heard that you can put a switch in the (-) low tension lead to
from the coil to the distributor but that would be easy to find as it
would be a long wire where there should be a short one. I have also
hear that an extra wire from one side of the coil allows you to ground
out the coil which has the same effect of immobilising the ignition. I
could do an electronic fuel cut off but they cost about £50 so I would
like to explore cheaper options first.

Does anyone know any more about doing this? Apart from the coil
getting very hot if the ignition is left on - are there any dangers in
doing this? I have a Pertronix Ignitor instead of points.

Any other suggestions?

In article
>,
Bluedc > wrote:

> I am trying to work out the best way to easily immobilise my type 2.
> [...]


Speedy Jim can really help us here.

Hiding a kill-switch is the difficult part.

There is a switch on the transmission that closes when it is shifted
into reverse. It is intended to turn on the backup lights, then turn
them off when you shift out of reverse.

If you could set it up so that shifting into reverse was necessary to
start the car, that might be the trick.

Jim? Any idea how that could be done?

I reckon I can hide the switch, it may also have a cover that matches
the rest of the interior so you would have to be very quick to find it.

"Bluedc" > wrote in message
...
> I reckon I can hide the switch, it may also have a cover that matches
> the rest of the interior so you would have to be very quick to find it.

If you run a tachometer, you already have a good source to ground the coil
to kill the ignition.... put a pinswitch behind the ashtray so when the
ashtray is pushed it it grounds the coil.... this will keep the ignition
from actually firing until you pull the ashtray out enough to break the
ground connection at the pinswitch.

In article >,
"Joey Tribiani" > wrote:

> "Bluedc" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I reckon I can hide the switch, it may also have a cover that matches
> > the rest of the interior so you would have to be very quick to find it.
>
> If you run a tachometer, you already have a good source to ground the coil
> to kill the ignition.... put a pinswitch behind the ashtray so when the
> ashtray is pushed it it grounds the coil.... this will keep the ignition
> from actually firing until you pull the ashtray out enough to break the
> ground connection at the pinswitch.

I LIKE that idea! Very cool!

Sorry to be a bit slow here but

Before I start can can someone confirm that I have got this right. To
ground the coil I simply need an wire with a switch in it from the
(-) on the coil to a ground?

Are there any dangers in this - starting a fire or damaging any parts
of the ignition system?

With the ashtray trick or any other position for a switch - you need
to make sure that there is no chance that it will be operated
accidently.

Bluedc wrote:
> Sorry to be a bit slow here but
>
> Before I start can can someone confirm that I have got this right. To
> ground the coil I simply need an wire with a switch in it from the
> (-) on the coil to a ground?
>
> Are there any dangers in this - starting a fire or damaging any parts
> of the ignition system?
>
> With the ashtray trick or any other position for a switch - you need
> to make sure that there is no chance that it will be operated
> accidently.


Yes, that's correct- ground the (-) side of coil.

Note that there may be considerable voltage on that wire,
maybe 50 to 100 volt spikes. The wire needs to have
excellent insulation to avoid breakdown and resulting
poor spark, especially when damp. Careful to avoid
kinks in the wire or abrasion.


Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On Jul 4, 4:47 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> Bluedc wrote:
> > Sorry to be a bit slow here but
>
> > Before I start can can someone confirm that I have got this right. To
> > ground the coil I simply need an wire with a switch in it from the
> > (-) on the coil to a ground?
>
> > Are there any dangers in this - starting a fire or damaging any parts
> > of the ignition system?
>
> > With the ashtray trick or any other position for a switch - you need
> > to make sure that there is no chance that it will be operated
> > accidently.
>
> Yes, that's correct- ground the (-) side of coil.
>
> Note that there may be considerable voltage on that wire,
> maybe 50 to 100 volt spikes. The wire needs to have
> excellent insulation to avoid breakdown and resulting
> poor spark, especially when damp. Careful to avoid
> kinks in the wire or abrasion.
>
> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

I've done the ashtray pin switch for many years now, with no problems.
I have it hooked up to my electric fuel pump, and I have personally
started the car, warmed it up, pulled out of the garage, and... run
out of gas in our driveway. I haven't done that in a while, but I have
done it...

On a T3 I had I installed a microswitch( inside the rubber boot) activated
by one of the heater levers between the seats. Because the switch has
normally open or closed contacts you can have lever down or up to enable
starter.
John

That's a clever solution. Nice.

On Jul 6, 11:59*pm, "John" > wrote:
> On a T3 I had I installed a microswitch( inside the rubber boot) *activated
> by one of the heater levers between the seats. Because the switch has
> normally open or closed contacts you can have lever down or up to enable
> starter.
> * * * * * * * * * * * *John