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1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 2nd 08, 10:05 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
Paul Jr
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6
Default 1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation

I finally got around to trying to fix this again. I removed the 2
screws and sheet metal cover to check the Fast Idle Valve. I didn't
feel any suction or airflow and couldn't get the idle to settle down
by covering the valve seat. Thanks for your help Tegger, but I guess
the Fast Idle Valve is not the culprit. Does anyone else have any
other suggestions??

Mostco, the coolant is full.

TE Chea, your link no longer works. Is there a way to test if the
throttle angle sensor is bad?

Thanks,
Paul
Ads
  #12  
Old January 3rd 08, 02:34 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
motsco_[_1_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 487
Default 1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation

Paul Jr wrote:
> I finally got around to trying to fix this again. I removed the 2
> screws and sheet metal cover to check the Fast Idle Valve. I didn't
> feel any suction or airflow and couldn't get the idle to settle down
> by covering the valve seat. Thanks for your help Tegger, but I guess
> the Fast Idle Valve is not the culprit. Does anyone else have any
> other suggestions??
>
> Mostco, the coolant is full.
>

-------------------

The rad has to be full as well as the reservoir. How full is the
reservoir, just a puddle in the bottom ? ? (that's called empty)

On a 1990 I think the system has to be 'burped' (manually), but it won't
work if there's no coolant in the reservoir to displace the air.

'Curly'
  #13  
Old January 4th 08, 02:17 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
Paul Jr
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6
Default 1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation

On Jan 2, 5:34 pm, motsco_ > wrote:
> Paul Jr wrote:
> > I finally got around to trying to fix this again. I removed the 2
> > screws and sheet metal cover to check the Fast Idle Valve. I didn't
> > feel any suction or airflow and couldn't get the idle to settle down
> > by covering the valve seat. Thanks for your help Tegger, but I guess
> > the Fast Idle Valve is not the culprit. Does anyone else have any
> > other suggestions??

>
> > Mostco, the coolant is full.

>
> -------------------
>
> The rad has to be full as well as the reservoir. How full is the
> reservoir, just a puddle in the bottom ? ? (that's called empty)
>
> On a 1990 I think the system has to be 'burped' (manually), but it won't
> work if there's no coolant in the reservoir to displace the air.
>
> 'Curly'


Both the reservoir and Radiator are full. I will try burping it, but
I really doubt that is the problem. It was working fine for awhile
before this problem started.
  #15  
Old February 10th 08, 01:19 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
Paul Jr
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6
Default 1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation

On Jan 3, 7:04 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> Paul Jr > wrote in news:867dd06e-9649-4f55-8b5f-
> :
>
> > I finally got around to trying to fix this again. I removed the 2
> > screws and sheet metal cover to check the Fast Idle Valve. I didn't
> > feel any suction or airflow and couldn't get the idle to settle down
> > by covering the valve seat. Thanks for your help Tegger, but I guess
> > the Fast Idle Valve is not the culprit. Does anyone else have any
> > other suggestions??

>
> > Mostco, the coolant is full.

>
> > TE Chea, your link no longer works. Is there a way to test if the
> > throttle angle sensor is bad?

>
> > Thanks,
> > Paul

>
> Another air-related suggestion: When the car is warm and the idle is
> fluctuating, remove the air cleaner pipe to the throttle body. Can you
> progressively cover the throttle body with your hand to the point where the
> idle settles down?
>
> What happens if you unplug the EACV? That's the idle air control valve
> behind the throttle body. Sometimes a stuck-open EACV causes fluctuating
> idle.
>
> And did you check the coolant in the rad, not the reservoir?
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/


Yes, if I can cover the throttle body enough to set the idle down.

I unplugged the EACV and the idle jumped up to a fast idle and the
check engine light came on. I had to restart the car before the idle
would settle down again (actually fluctuate again).

Does this tell you anything? Is the EACV the culprit?

Yes, I check the coolant levels and "burped" it also. I am very
confident that there isn't any air in the coolant system.
  #16  
Old February 10th 08, 11:40 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
Tegger
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,716
Default 1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation

Paul Jr > wrote in
:

> On Jan 3, 7:04 pm, Tegger > wrote:


>>
>> Another air-related suggestion: When the car is warm and the idle is
>> fluctuating, remove the air cleaner pipe to the throttle body. Can
>> you progressively cover the throttle body with your hand to the point
>> where the idle settles down?
>>
>> What happens if you unplug the EACV? That's the idle air control
>> valve behind the throttle body. Sometimes a stuck-open EACV causes
>> fluctuating idle.
>>
>> And did you check the coolant in the rad, not the reservoir?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

>
> Yes, if I can cover the throttle body enough to set the idle down.




Bingo. You have a major air leak somewhere.


>
> I unplugged the EACV and the idle jumped up to a fast idle and the
> check engine light came on.




It is normal and expected that the CEL would illuminate when the EACV is
unplugged.



> I had to restart the car before the idle
> would settle down again (actually fluctuate again).




So the idle fluctuates even though the EACV is unplugged?

Hmmm.


>
> Does this tell you anything? Is the EACV the culprit?




You have large amounts of unwanted air entering the system.

Before anything else is done, you need to check each and every one of your
many vacuum hoses, including the ones inside the EGR control box on the
firewall.

You also have an Air Boost Valve. It is at the opposite end of the intake
plenum from the throttle body. With the engine idle fluctuating, disconnect
the Air Boost Valve's vacuum hose and plug the port in the valve with your
finger. If no settling of the idle, this part is OK.

Chek all the bolts/nuts that hold on the intake manifold and other intake
parts. Loose intake parts will leak vast amounts of air.


>
> Yes, I check the coolant levels and "burped" it also. I am very
> confident that there isn't any air in the coolant system.




If the coolant is right up against the bottom of the rad cap, then the
level is fine.

Your focus now is to find that air leak.

If you are 110% certain you have eliminated the possibility of any air
leaks, then -- and only then -- we try readjusting the idle speed screw.

What are these three digits of your VIN (represented here by x's? JHMCBxxx
(No personal information is in those three digits).



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
  #17  
Old February 19th 08, 08:42 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
Paul Jr
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6
Default 1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation

On Feb 10, 2:40 am, Tegger > wrote:
> Paul Jr > wrote :
>
>
>
> > On Jan 3, 7:04 pm, Tegger > wrote:

>
> >> Another air-related suggestion: When the car is warm and the idle is
> >> fluctuating, remove the air cleaner pipe to the throttle body. Can
> >> you progressively cover the throttle body with your hand to the point
> >> where the idle settles down?

>
> >> What happens if you unplug the EACV? That's the idle air control
> >> valve behind the throttle body. Sometimes a stuck-open EACV causes
> >> fluctuating idle.

>
> >> And did you check the coolant in the rad, not the reservoir?

>
> > Yes, if I can cover the throttle body enough to set the idle down.

>
> Bingo. You have a major air leak somewhere.
>
>
>
> > I unplugged the EACV and the idle jumped up to a fast idle and the
> > check engine light came on.

>
> It is normal and expected that the CEL would illuminate when the EACV is
> unplugged.
>
> > I had to restart the car before the idle
> > would settle down again (actually fluctuate again).

>
> So the idle fluctuates even though the EACV is unplugged?
>
> Hmmm.
>
>
>
> > Does this tell you anything? Is the EACV the culprit?

>
> You have large amounts of unwanted air entering the system.
>
> Before anything else is done, you need to check each and every one of your
> many vacuum hoses, including the ones inside the EGR control box on the
> firewall.
>
> You also have an Air Boost Valve. It is at the opposite end of the intake
> plenum from the throttle body. With the engine idle fluctuating, disconnect
> the Air Boost Valve's vacuum hose and plug the port in the valve with your
> finger. If no settling of the idle, this part is OK.
>
> Chek all the bolts/nuts that hold on the intake manifold and other intake
> parts. Loose intake parts will leak vast amounts of air.
>
>
>
> > Yes, I check the coolant levels and "burped" it also. I am very
> > confident that there isn't any air in the coolant system.

>
> If the coolant is right up against the bottom of the rad cap, then the
> level is fine.
>
> Your focus now is to find that air leak.
>
> If you are 110% certain you have eliminated the possibility of any air
> leaks, then -- and only then -- we try readjusting the idle speed screw.
>
> What are these three digits of your VIN (represented here by x's? JHMCBxxx
> (No personal information is in those three digits).
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The UnofficialHonda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/


Sorry, I didn't write that very clear. When I unplug the EACV that
idle jumps up to about 2000 RPMs and stays there. I was trying to say
that if I plug the EACV back in, the idle wouldn't calm down and
fluctuate again until I restarted the car.

So is it my EACV that is the problem or an air leak somewhere?

My VIN is HGCB714

I really appreciate your help,
-Paul
  #18  
Old February 21st 08, 12:03 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
Tegger
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,716
Default 1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation

Paul Jr > wrote in
:


>
> Sorry, I didn't write that very clear. When I unplug the EACV that
> idle jumps up to about 2000 RPMs and stays there. I was trying to say
> that if I plug the EACV back in, the idle wouldn't calm down and
> fluctuate again until I restarted the car.
>
> So is it my EACV that is the problem or an air leak somewhere?




You should find a hole in the sidewall of the throttle body just before the
throttle plate. This will be the EACV air intake port. With the EACV
UNplugged and the idle high, is there suction at the EACV port? With the
EACV unplugged, there should be NO suction.


>
> My VIN is HGCB714




That doesn't seem like an accurate VIN extract. CB7 is the Accord with the
2.2L SOHC. The next two digits are supposed to describe trim level and
transmission, but my docs say "14" is invalid.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
  #19  
Old March 7th 16, 10:34 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default 1990 Honda Accord Idle fluctuation

On Tuesday, November 20, 2007 at 1:13:45 PM UTC-4, wrote:
> My 1990 Honda Accord 2.2L started to have idle fluctuations
> yesterday. The RPM will fluctuate between 1700 and 1000 RPMs when the
> car is stopped. The fluctuations don't seem to be noticeable when the
> car is in gear. What would cause this? I searched for vacuum leaks
> but couldn't find anything. I recently did a tune-up. Please help!


Find your FITS sensor in front of the fuel rail,take the two screws out on top and remove cover.put a flat screw driver in one of the slots you will see when you look inside and turn the plastic diaphragm clockwise till it stops,do not tighten.That will fix it.
 




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