1995 Vortec V6 4.3 Spider Injector HELP PLEASE ANYTHING APPRECIATED

My 95 S10 V6 pickup was running great. On day it lost power and MPG dropped off. I searched online and found the most likely cause was a bad nut kit or spider injector. I am a decent shade-tree mechanic with years of experience. I pulled the intake and indeed my nut kit was bad. I figured while I had it off I would replace the injector. I bought a GB re manufactured unit. I put it all back together and it started perfectly and idled better than ever. It revs smooth and perfect to redline in PARK OR NEUTRAL. As soon as you put it in Drive or Reverse with your foot on the brake sitting still it will only barely make 2000 RPM and has no power. Shift back to P or N and it is perfect. It will idle and rev up to redline all day with no issues. I nursed it to an auto parts store (30 mile round trip) and had it scanned and it had no related codes. Mileage was terrible. I pulled the intake again, no leaks, good fuel pressure, changed fuel pump and filter. Buttoned it back up and still the same thing.

Could I have something as simple as I broke something external, a bad connector or incorrectly connected vacuum line? I am totally stumped and have posted in several chevy forums with lots of reads and no responses.

ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS APPRECIATED.

Thank you

wrote:
> My 95 S10 V6 pickup was running great. On day it lost power and MPG
> dropped off. I searched online and found the most likely cause was a
> bad nut kit or spider injector. I am a decent shade-tree mechanic
> with years of experience. I pulled the intake and indeed my nut kit
> was bad. I figured while I had it off I would replace the injector.
> I bought a GB re manufactured unit. I put it all back together and
> it started perfectly and idled better than ever. It revs smooth and
> perfect to redline in PARK OR NEUTRAL. As soon as you put it in
> Drive or Reverse with your foot on the brake sitting still it will
> only barely make 2000 RPM and has no power. Shift back to P or N and
> it is perfect. It will idle and rev up to redline all day with no
> issues. I nursed it to an auto parts store (30 mile round trip) and
> had it scanned and it had no related codes. Mileage was terrible. I
> pulled the intake again, no leaks, good fuel pressure, changed fuel
> pump and filter. Buttoned it back up and still the same thing.
>
> Could I have something as simple as I broke something external, a bad
> connector or incorrectly connected vacuum line? I am totally stumped
> and have posted in several chevy forums with lots of reads and no
> responses.
>
> ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS APPRECIATED.
>
> Thank you

Do you have access to a scan tool that can give you live data? With that
you could look at the O2 and fuel trims and calculated load. It sounds
like it is dumping extra fuel when in gear and the PCM determines there
is a load on the engine. What is your fuel pressure engine running?


--
Steve W.

On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 2:40:39 AM UTC-10, wrote:
> My 95 S10 V6 pickup was running great. On day it lost power and MPG dropped off. I searched online and found the most likely cause was a bad nut kit or spider injector. I am a decent shade-tree mechanic with years of experience. I pulled the intake and indeed my nut kit was bad. I figured while I had it off I would replace the injector. I bought a GB re manufactured unit. I put it all back together and it started perfectly and idled better than ever. It revs smooth and perfect to redline in PARK OR NEUTRAL. As soon as you put it in Drive or Reverse with your foot on the brake sitting still it will only barely make 2000 RPM and has no power. Shift back to P or N and it is perfect. It will idle and rev up to redline all day with no issues. I nursed it to an auto parts store (30 mile round trip) and had it scanned and it had no related codes. Mileage was terrible. I pulled the intake again, no leaks, good fuel pressure, changed fuel pump and filter. Buttoned it back up and still the same thing.
>
> Could I have something as simple as I broke something external, a bad connector or incorrectly connected vacuum line? I am totally stumped and have posted in several chevy forums with lots of reads and no responses.
>
> ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS APPRECIATED.
>
> Thank you

Check your throttle position sensor.

On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 2:40:39 AM UTC-10,
wrote:
> My 95 S10 V6 pickup was running great. On day it lost power and MPG dropped off. I searched online and found the most likely cause was a bad nut kit or spider injector. I am a decent shade-tree mechanic with years of experience. I pulled the intake and indeed my nut kit was bad. I figured while I had it off I would replace the injector. I bought a GB re manufactured unit. I put it all back together and it started perfectly and idled better than ever. It revs smooth and perfect to redline in PARK OR NEUTRAL. As soon as you put it in Drive or Reverse with your foot on the brake sitting still it will only barely make 2000 RPM and has no power. Shift back to P or N and it is perfect. It will idle and rev up to redline all day with no issues. I nursed it to an auto parts store (30 mile round trip) and had it scanned and it had no related codes. Mileage was terrible. I pulled the intake again, no leaks, good fuel pressure, changed fuel pump and filter. Buttoned it back up and
still the same thing.
>
> Could I have something as simple as I broke something external, a bad connector or incorrectly connected vacuum line? I am totally stumped and have posted in several chevy forums with lots of reads and no responses.
>
> ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS APPRECIATED.
>
> Thank you

I would check the TPS along with the MAP sensor and its vacuum line,
assuming it has a MAP sensor, but a couple of things don't make sense.
You're saying that you can get the RPM to 2000 in drive, and say that
there is no power. 2000 is about the stall speed of that converter,
and I don't see how it can get to that RPM with no power. Is that a
guess, or do you have a tach?

Disregarding that for a second, when you put it in drive and load the
engine, does it still run smoothly, or does it feel like it's dropping
cylinders?

Anyway, in some ways your description sounds like a torque converter,
or a stripped stator shaft, but in that case, the RPM probably
wouldn't even get near 1000 RPM. If you didn't already, get an
accurate tach, and check the RPM when brake-torquing it. If it really
does get to 2000 RPM, it's not the converter. If it gets to only about
6-700 RPM, head to a trans shop.