Suspension parts for 300M with Performance Handling Package

On 12/09/2014 10:33 PM, MoPar Man wrote:

>>> I thought I read somewhere that the OEM mounts were somewhat rare
>>> to come by. I assume they're only available through Chrysler?
>>
>> I bought them from wermopar.com -- but initially they sent identical
>> ones but labeled as left and right. It took them a while to find the
>> correct RH one.
>
> According to this:
>
> http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2.../nw992105-assy
>
> -----------
> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782019AC)
> Discontinued Part
>
> No Longer Available For Purchase
>
> Product Description
>
> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left for your 2000 Chrysler 300M Base with
> a 3.5L V6 - Gas. We also sell Suspension and Shocks and Struts.
> Suspension and Shocks and StrutsThis is a genuine OEM Chrysler part
> #478-2019AC and carries a factory warranty. We offer the best online
> prices with fast shipping with any order placed with us.

The number they told me for my '02 model was 4782019AB (B not C), but I
don't see that on their site now either. Perhaps I bought the last one.
However, some of the ones they had labeled as 4782018AB (the right-hand
one) were in fact the left-hand ones.

There are other on-line discount MoPar parts vendors, but I don't recall
the names now. Try Google.

> The right strut mount:
>
> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Right - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782018AB)
>
> They apparently have. Selling it for $78.57.
>
> Someone is selling a new left strut mount 4782019AC on ebay right now -
> but they're saying its for a 01-02 Intrepid - so I'm a little confused
> if this would work on '00 300m.

Don't know for sure, but I'd be surprised if there was a significant
change from '00 to '01-'02. As far as 300M vs. Intrepid is concerned, I
think it's just a matter of body styling and gizmos.

> Question:
>
> The factory service manual shows the "upper mount" and the "seat and
> bearing" to be two different parts.
>
> But I don't see the mount and bearing being sold as two different
> parts. For example, this seems to show the combined mount and bearing:
>
> http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...GAq-w8IIvOxAQQ
>
> So I assume that what you bought looked like that picture (a mount with
> 4 bolts and a bearing).

The seats and bearings were separate. "Seat and Bearing Assembly":
68140264AA.

> The service manual shows the use of a special tool 6864 (which looks
> like an offset socket) to remove the shaft nut from the strut. How did
> you remove the shaft nut on your moogs to install the OEM mount?

I had read that some people had used Oxygen Sensor wrenches. I did
borrow one from AutoZone but then read the on-line reviews where some
people complained that they were somewhat fragile, so I didn't use it.
There are now "thru-sockets," such as the Craftsman "MaxAxess" (seem to
be rebranded GearWrench) and the Kobalt "Xtreme Access" from Lowe's. To
remove and replace the mounts on the Moogs I used a 1/2-in.-drive 22mm
thru-socket and 3-in. extension from Lowes and was able to get a
3/8-in.-drive 10mm socket inside to hold the end of the shaft -- but the
sequence is important: 22mm thru-socket, 10mm socket, 1/2-in. drive
thru-extension, and then insert the 3/8-in. drive extension. The Lowes
thru-sockets and extensions can be driven with a 7/8-in. box wrench or
crow-foot wrench, the latter allowing the use of a torque wrench. BUT
the protrusion on the OEM assemblies is less, so I may have to use a
1/4"-drive 10mm socket on the shaft nut.

> From what you've read, can OEM (MoPar) mounts be swapped into the Monroe
> quickstrut?

As far as I know, yes.

> I still have my original struts - I tried to remove the strut nut from
> one of them but without the "special tool" I can only resort to using a
> 1/4" socket (with 1/4" drive extension) passing through the center of a
> 1/2" spark-plug socket (with hex flats that I can grab with a wrench) to
> remove the nut, but last I tried I couldn't move the nut, so the nut and
> socket are still sitting on the strut (and the spring compressors are
> still compressing the spring) and the strut is sitting somewhere in the
> garage.

I haven't made much of an attempt so far to disassemble the old strut
assemblies to retrieve the old mounts, bearings and seats (more
particularly the latter two), and to relieve the spring pressure before
I donate them to the local rescue mission to sell as scrap (in case they
get the bright idea of trying to cut everything apart without relieving
the spring pressure first). At least one person cut through the shaft --
after compressing the springs -- but the shaft is hardened and a
metal-saw blade didn't make much of an impression on it: maybe an
abrasive cutting disc would work better.

>>> I think I'm going to pick up some OEM mounts at some point,
>>> see if I can't replace the ones that came with the Monroe's
>>> I put on a couple years ago. Can it be done by dropping the
>>> strut while it's still connected to everything?
>>
>> I don't see that that would be possible: I'm sure there wouldn't
>> be room to get spring compressors in there or to get the old
>> mounts out and the new ones in.
>
> The way I see it:
>
> - Jack the car up, take the wheel off, lower the hub so it
> rests on a block of wood, let the weight of the car compress
> the spring
>
> - mount the spring compressors, tighten them up more if possible
>
> - from the engine compartment, remove the strut nut, then
> remove the 4 nuts holding the strut to the body
>
> - jack the car back up to get some clearance, springs remain
> compressed, but strut is now free to move down, maybe 6
> inches at least?
>
> - Now - with strut nut off, can strut mount be lifted off
> and replaced with new OEM mount?

I guess you could try it.

Perce

On 12/10/2014 02:36 PM, I wrote:

>> According to this:
>>
>> http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2.../nw992105-assy
>>
>>
>> -----------
>> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782019AC)
>> Discontinued Part
>>
>> No Longer Available For Purchase
>>
>> Product Description
>>
>> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left for your 2000 Chrysler 300M Base with
>> a 3.5L V6 - Gas. We also sell Suspension and Shocks and Struts.
>> Suspension and Shocks and StrutsThis is a genuine OEM Chrysler part
>> #478-2019AC and carries a factory warranty. We offer the best online
>> prices with fast shipping with any order placed with us.
>
> The number they told me for my '02 model was 4782019AB (B not C), but I
> don't see that on their site now either. Perhaps I bought the last one.
> However, some of the ones they had labeled as 4782018AB (the right-hand
> one) were in fact the left-hand ones.
>
> There are other on-line discount MoPar parts vendors, but I don't recall
> the names now. Try Google.

If I choose the 2002 model on the wermopar.com Web site, it shows the
same mounts that they sold me as available, but if I click to show the
list of compatible models, they skip from 1999 to 2002. Strange! But
maybe there was an important change and then they changed back again.

If you enter your VIN on most of the genuine Mopar vendors' Web sites,
they'll show you the correct part number. And that's important because
there can be mid-year changes.

>> The right strut mount:
>>
>> Suspension Strut Mount, Front Right - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782018AB)
>>
>> They apparently have. Selling it for $78.57.
>>
>> Someone is selling a new left strut mount 4782019AC on ebay right now -
>> but they're saying its for a 01-02 Intrepid - so I'm a little confused
>> if this would work on '00 300m.
>
> Don't know for sure, but I'd be surprised if there was a significant
> change from '00 to '01-'02. As far as 300M vs. Intrepid is concerned, I
> think it's just a matter of body styling and gizmos.

BUT now see above.

>> Question:
>>
>> The factory service manual shows the "upper mount" and the "seat and
>> bearing" to be two different parts.
>>
>> But I don't see the mount and bearing being sold as two different
>> parts. For example, this seems to show the combined mount and bearing:
>>
>> http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...GAq-w8IIvOxAQQ
>>
>>
>> So I assume that what you bought looked like that picture (a mount with
>> 4 bolts and a bearing).
>
> The seats and bearings were separate. "Seat and Bearing Assembly":
> 68140264AA.
>
>> The service manual shows the use of a special tool 6864 (which looks
>> like an offset socket) to remove the shaft nut from the strut. How did
>> you remove the shaft nut on your moogs to install the OEM mount?
>
> I had read that some people had used Oxygen Sensor wrenches. I did
> borrow one from AutoZone but then read the on-line reviews where some
> people complained that they were somewhat fragile, so I didn't use it.
> There are now "thru-sockets," such as the Craftsman "MaxAxess" (seem to
> be rebranded GearWrench) and the Kobalt "Xtreme Access" from Lowe's. To
> remove and replace the mounts on the Moogs I used a 1/2-in.-drive 22mm
> thru-socket and 3-in. extension from Lowes and was able to get a
> 3/8-in.-drive 10mm socket inside to hold the end of the shaft -- but the
> sequence is important: 22mm thru-socket, 10mm socket, 1/2-in. drive
> thru-extension, and then insert the 3/8-in. drive extension. The Lowes
> thru-sockets and extensions can be driven with a 7/8-in. box wrench or
> crow-foot wrench, the latter allowing the use of a torque wrench. BUT
> the protrusion on the OEM assemblies is less, so I may have to use a
> 1/4"-drive 10mm socket on the shaft nut.
>
>> From what you've read, can OEM (MoPar) mounts be swapped into the Monroe
>> quickstrut?
>
> As far as I know, yes.
>
>> I still have my original struts - I tried to remove the strut nut from
>> one of them but without the "special tool" I can only resort to using a
>> 1/4" socket (with 1/4" drive extension) passing through the center of a
>> 1/2" spark-plug socket (with hex flats that I can grab with a wrench) to
>> remove the nut, but last I tried I couldn't move the nut, so the nut and
>> socket are still sitting on the strut (and the spring compressors are
>> still compressing the spring) and the strut is sitting somewhere in the
>> garage.
>
> I haven't made much of an attempt so far to disassemble the old strut
> assemblies to retrieve the old mounts, bearings and seats (more
> particularly the latter two), and to relieve the spring pressure before
> I donate them to the local rescue mission to sell as scrap (in case they
> get the bright idea of trying to cut everything apart without relieving
> the spring pressure first). At least one person cut through the shaft --
> after compressing the springs -- but the shaft is hardened and a
> metal-saw blade didn't make much of an impression on it: maybe an
> abrasive cutting disc would work better.

I disassembled one strut assembly with little difficulty, but the nut on
the second one is so corroded that the 22mm socket just slips on it, and
I don't have a thru-socket the right size to grip it. Maybe it's time
to get out that abrasive wheel.

BTW, I broke a 1/4" extension on the first one, so be prepared.

Perce

Both bearings and seats and the left-hand mount seem fine, although if I
were going to reuse the bearings (or *when* I reuse them, *if* I keep
the car long enough) I would clean them up and repack them with grease.
The RH mount is much more rusty, and in any case it's still attached to
a piece of the shaft, so it's going to the rescue mission as scrap along
with the rest.

Both jounce bumpers and shrouds also seem fine, but they're probably not
worth saving.

Perce

I've just received something I ordered from ebay that claimed to be an
OEM left mount - Very Rare!

I'm not sure what I got was a genuine mopar part - maybe you can tell
me.

It appears to be just the mount (no bearing). It has a blue paper tag
on it attached with a wire tied to one of the mounting bolts. One side
of the tag must have had a sticker on it that was torn away, taking most
of that side of the tag with it. The other side has this:

--------------
Stock indentication tag
do not remove this tag or pick this piece for orders

Part no. 04782019AB (the PN number is hand written in pen)
Description (nothing written here except "1 PC")
Location
Sec. Bin.
Inspection O.K. 63552 <- written in pen
Date: 8-25-06
----------------

The part itself has 2 lines of text stamped into it on the surface where
the 4 mounting bolts stick up from:

04782019AB Black
04782018AB White 99201

There is no "MoPar" symbol, pentastar, etc, stamped into this part that
I can see. I have no idea what the terms "black" and "white" refer to.
The part itself is painted black.

So what do I have?

On 12/22/2014 12:08 PM, MoPar Man wrote:

> I've just received something I ordered from ebay that claimed to be an
> OEM left mount - Very Rare!
>
> I'm not sure what I got was a genuine mopar part - maybe you can tell
> me.
>
> It appears to be just the mount (no bearing). It has a blue paper tag
> on it attached with a wire tied to one of the mounting bolts. One side
> of the tag must have had a sticker on it that was torn away, taking most
> of that side of the tag with it. The other side has this:
>
> --------------
> Stock indentication tag
> do not remove this tag or pick this piece for orders
>
> Part no. 04782019AB (the PN number is hand written in pen)
> Description (nothing written here except "1 PC")
> Location
> Sec. Bin.
> Inspection O.K. 63552 <- written in pen
> Date: 8-25-06
> ----------------
>
> The part itself has 2 lines of text stamped into it on the surface where
> the 4 mounting bolts stick up from:
>
> 04782019AB Black
> 04782018AB White 99201
>
> There is no "MoPar" symbol, pentastar, etc, stamped into this part that
> I can see. I have no idea what the terms "black" and "white" refer to.
> The part itself is painted black.
>
> So what do I have?

I would check the orientation of the rubber "ears" against the pictures
in the service manual, but my guess is that that *is* a left-hand mount.
It sounds exactly the same as my left-hand mounts -- both the original
one and the new one I got from wermopar.com: no MoPar or Pentastar markings.

The "white" is supposed to indicate that if it has a blob of white paint
on it it is a right-hand mount -- with those rubber "ears" in a
different orientation.

BTW, did you take note of my first message of 12/11/2014 where I pointed
out that these particular mounts are not listed for 2000 and 2001
models? I assume they made a change for those years then changed back again.

Perce

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> I would check the orientation of the rubber "ears" against the
> pictures in the service manual, but my guess is that that *is*
> a left-hand mount.

I'm looking at the diagram in the manual (ELH_2.pdf). Page 13. The
diagram (Figure 3 - Left Front Strut Upper Mount) has a serial number
(80b34e0d) printed under it. There are a couple of arrows pointing to
something indicated by #2 (Rubber tabs).

The part I bought off ebay does indeed have the rubber tabs as indicated
by the arrows, in the same relationship as the square hole (a Notch,
indicated by #1) near the outside rim of the mount (at the 10 0'clock
position according to the manual). My part does have this square hole
exactly as indicated. These tabs are almost exactly in-line with 2 of
the mounting studs (again matching the diagram).

> It sounds exactly the same as my left-hand mounts -- both the
> original one and the new one I got from wermopar.com: no MoPar
> or Pentastar markings.
>
> The "white" is supposed to indicate that if it has a blob of white
> paint on it it is a right-hand mount -- with those rubber "ears"
> in a different orientation.

Ah. My part has no white paint blob.

> BTW, did you take note of my first message of 12/11/2014 where I
> pointed out that these particular mounts are not listed for
> 2000 and 2001 models? I assume they made a change for those
> years then changed back again.

I sort of did notice that, and indeed the ebay page where I found my
part did have a pull-down selection menu that did say that this part was
not for a '00 300m. But other part-selector sites on the net did seem
to indicate that this part *was* for a '00 300m, so I took a chance and
bought it.

Regarding this ambiguity, did you ever look for what IS supposed to be
the part number for a '00 300m left strut mount if 04782019AB is not it?

Also - what about the rest of this upper assembly? What do you know
about aftermarket vs OEM bearing and seat assemblies?

Are there differences between left and right?

Do you know the OEM P/N? Are they readily available?

Also -

Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other words,
will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by a wire?

On 12/23/2014 09:16 AM, MoPar Man wrote:

>> I would check the orientation of the rubber "ears" against the
>> pictures in the service manual, but my guess is that that *is*
>> a left-hand mount.
>
> I'm looking at the diagram in the manual (ELH_2.pdf). Page 13. The
> diagram (Figure 3 - Left Front Strut Upper Mount) has a serial number
> (80b34e0d) printed under it. There are a couple of arrows pointing to
> something indicated by #2 (Rubber tabs).
>
> The part I bought off ebay does indeed have the rubber tabs as indicated
> by the arrows, in the same relationship as the square hole (a Notch,
> indicated by #1) near the outside rim of the mount (at the 10 0'clock
> position according to the manual). My part does have this square hole
> exactly as indicated. These tabs are almost exactly in-line with 2 of
> the mounting studs (again matching the diagram).
>
>> It sounds exactly the same as my left-hand mounts -- both the
>> original one and the new one I got from wermopar.com: no MoPar
>> or Pentastar markings.
>>
>> The "white" is supposed to indicate that if it has a blob of white
>> paint on it it is a right-hand mount -- with those rubber "ears"
>> in a different orientation.
>
> Ah. My part has no white paint blob.
>
>> BTW, did you take note of my first message of 12/11/2014 where I
>> pointed out that these particular mounts are not listed for
>> 2000 and 2001 models? I assume they made a change for those
>> years then changed back again.
>
> I sort of did notice that, and indeed the ebay page where I found my
> part did have a pull-down selection menu that did say that this part was
> not for a '00 300m. But other part-selector sites on the net did seem
> to indicate that this part *was* for a '00 300m, so I took a chance and
> bought it.
>
> Regarding this ambiguity, did you ever look for what IS supposed to be
> the part number for a '00 300m left strut mount if 04782019AB is not it?

>
http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2...omponents-scat

Looks significantly different from the 2002 model.

> Also - what about the rest of this upper assembly? What do you know
> about aftermarket vs OEM bearing and seat assemblies?
>
> Are there differences between left and right?
>
> Do you know the OEM P/N? Are they readily available?

For mine the left and right were the same. WeRMopar gave me the part
number, but yours could be different if the mounts are different, as
they appear to be.

> Also -
>
> Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other words,
> will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by a wire?

On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into the body
of the strut.

Perce

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2...omponents-scat

> Looks significantly different from the 2002 model.

From your link, is this diagram (PNG image):

http://cdn.revolutionparts.com/ill3....19434871&make=

FRONT SUSPENSION/SUSPENSION COMPONENTS for 2000 Chrysler 300M

Parts are identified as 1 through 9. Can you explain why it appears to
separate the upper mount into 2 parts (7 and 9) ???

There is no way that I can see how the upper mount can be separated into
those 2 parts without destroying it. You will note that in the
accompanying parts list to the right of the diagram they do not list
part #7, and part #9 is referred to as "4782228AA / 4782233AA SPRING
INSULATOR LOWER / UPPER.

You will note that the diagram does not show the bearing or dust cover.

So they've screwed up the diagram. Part #7 is the upper mount, and Part
#9 is the spring insulator - but the upper insulator should be drawn
UNDER the upper mount - not above it.

And as I've just said above - they don't have the mount listed, and
therefore we don't know it's P/N.

**** HOWEVER ****

I can confirm that the mount that I bought off ebay which the seller
claimed was NOT for '00 300m, which I described as having this stamped
into it:

04782019AB Black
04782018AB White 99201

Matches my original mount EXACTLY (same numbers stamped into it, exactly
the same way).

And for what it's worth, there was still a couple of paper stickers on
the top surface of my original left-side mount (same surface where those
numbers are stamped) that had a barcode with this number: P04895155AE

Nothing turns up on a web-search for that number.

I had given my original left strut to my brother to take apart. He
removed the strut nut with an air socket - and he prevented the shaft
from turning by grabbing it with vice grips from the *under-side* of the
upper mount.

Now Perce - explain this:

Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?

Can the bearing be bought separately?

> For mine the left and right were the same. WeRMopar gave me
> the part number, but yours could be different if the mounts
> are different, as they appear to be.

What year is your 300m?

Mine is '00, and (as I've written above) my upper strut mount is exactly
the same (same P/N) has is being claimed for other model years.

If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?

Were the dust covers attached to them? Permenently?

On 12/24/2014 10:54 AM, MoPar Man wrote:

> http://www.wermopar.com/auto-parts/2...omponents-scat
>
>> Looks significantly different from the 2002 model.
>
> From your link, is this diagram (PNG image):
>
> http://cdn.revolutionparts.com/ill3....19434871&make=

That link does not work for me, so I can't comment on your questions
about that diagram.

<snip>

> I can confirm that the mount that I bought off ebay which the seller
> claimed was NOT for '00 300m, which I described as having this stamped
> into it:
>
> 04782019AB Black
> 04782018AB White 99201
>
> Matches my original mount EXACTLY (same numbers stamped into it, exactly
> the same way).

Was there a change part-way through the model year?
>
> And for what it's worth, there was still a couple of paper stickers on
> the top surface of my original left-side mount (same surface where those
> numbers are stamped) that had a barcode with this number: P04895155AE
>
> Nothing turns up on a web-search for that number.
>
> I had given my original left strut to my brother to take apart. He
> removed the strut nut with an air socket - and he prevented the shaft
> from turning by grabbing it with vice grips from the *under-side* of the
> upper mount.
>
> Now Perce - explain this:
>
> Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?

I used the new boots that came with the Moog strut assemblies.

> Can the bearing be bought separately?
>
>> For mine the left and right were the same. WeRMopar gave me
>> the part number, but yours could be different if the mounts
>> are different, as they appear to be.
>
> What year is your 300m?

Late 2002: Delivered May 1, 2002. Some parts, I have already discovered,
are the same as the '03 models rather than the earlier '02 models.

> Mine is '00, and (as I've written above) my upper strut mount is exactly
> the same (same P/N) has is being claimed for other model years.
>
> If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?
>
> Were the dust covers attached to them? Permenently?

Bearing and Seat: 68140264AA. The same both sides. The boots are separate.

If you enter the VIN at wermopar.com, it should show you the correct
part numbers for everything.

Perce

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> > Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?
>
> I used the new boots that came with the Moog strut assemblies.

OK.

So now that I've taken apart the original left strut, I can list the
part numbers for all parts. The dust boot is in great shape (no cuts or
scratches).

> > If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?
>
> Bearing and Seat: 68140264AA. The same both sides. The boots
> are separate.

The only thing that looks like a P/N on the seat (the big black plastic
part) is 04782016.

Throwing that into google gives many pages like this one:

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p...8140264AA.html

Where they specifically give this:

----------------------------------
Stock Code 68140264AA;04782016
----------------------------------

So I have no idea what "68140264AA" is for, or if it's interchangeable
for 04782016.

> If you enter the VIN at wermopar.com, it should show you the
> correct part numbers for everything.

I'll give that a try.

Just for the record, here's what my P/N's a

Refering to Figure 64 on page 2-35 of the service manual, from top to
bottom:

Part 9 (Upper mount) - 04782019AB Black
- 04782018AB White 99201
Part 1 (seat and bearing)
- FAG RG 559342 SAE PASS GF33 2-2
- 04782016 Time-stamp wheel (see below)
Part 8 (upper spring isolator) - 4782233AA (foam)
Part 2 (dust shield) - 04782235AA SAE TEEE
Part 3 (cup) - 04782238AB 11 SAE PASS FAG 559374 CANADA
- plastic cup with large metal washer in bottom
Part 6 (jounce bumper) - 4782017 77484 BASF 31 (foam)

Time stamp wheel: looks like clock face with 99 in the center surrounded
by 12 sectors, with 6 of the sectors having a dimple (or 2 dimples)
stamped into them. Possibly indicating the part was made in June 1999?

I am really impressed with the durability of the high-density foam upper
spring isolator. I wouldn't have thought that a material like that
would have stood up over time to the forces applied to it without
eventually crumbling. I could clean away the grease and dig out some of
the rusted crust that came off the spring, and it would look almost new.

And this is something I don't get: Correct me if I'm wrong, but the
foam spring isolators and the plastic seat and the rather skimpy-looking
bearing races (and the tiny bearings!) - all those parts are basically
holding half the weight of the front of the car - and god knows how much
additional force when the car is manouvering, breaking or hitting pot
holes?

I can't believe that the skimpy-looking bearing races (and the tiny
bearings - about 2 or 3 dozen of them, maybe a tad larger than 1/8"
diameter) are durable enough to be exposed to what - a thousand pounds
of force at rest?

Did you get a new seat/bearing assembly? What holds the upper and lower
bearing races together? (mine can just be separated by hand with nothing
to hold them together).

> > Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other
> > words, will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by
> > a wire?
>
> On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into the
> body of the strut.

Hmmm.

With my original, with a light amount of force I can push the shaft into
the strut body all the way by hand, but when I let go it will naturally
extend out slowly about 6-8 inches over about a minute.