1988 Honda Accord won't idle when warmed up

On the way to work last week, my Accord died on me when I took it out
of gear (manual trans) as I approached a stop. It restarted but, would
not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator and kept it at about
1000 rpms. When it's cold, it idles fine but as soon as it warms up
you can watch the rpms drop and it will die. Restart and hold the
accelerator and its fine. I've read that it could be clogged fuel
filter(s) or something to do with the carb. I don't have the money to
take to someone to have it fixed so, I'll have to do it myself and I
don't have the money to replace this and that. BTW it's carburated
not fuel injected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

wrote:
> On the way to work last week, my Accord died on me when I took it out
> of gear (manual trans) as I approached a stop. It restarted but, would
> not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator and kept it at about
> 1000 rpms. When it's cold, it idles fine but as soon as it warms up
> you can watch the rpms drop and it will die. Restart and hold the
> accelerator and its fine. I've read that it could be clogged fuel
> filter(s) or something to do with the carb. I don't have the money to
> take to someone to have it fixed so, I'll have to do it myself and I
> don't have the money to replace this and that. BTW it's carburated
> not fuel injected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

check all your vacuum hoses.

wrote:
> On the way to work last week, my Accord died on me when I took it out
> of gear (manual trans) as I approached a stop. It restarted but, would
> not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator and kept it at about
> 1000 rpms. When it's cold, it idles fine but as soon as it warms up
> you can watch the rpms drop and it will die. Restart and hold the
> accelerator and its fine. I've read that it could be clogged fuel
> filter(s) or something to do with the carb. I don't have the money to
> take to someone to have it fixed so, I'll have to do it myself and I
> don't have the money to replace this and that. BTW it's carburated
> not fuel injected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

--------------------

I think it depends on the flow of HOT coolant to set some of the
carburetor's controls. Fill your reservoir to the MAX mark three days in
a row and see if your troubles go away.

'Curly'

PCV Valve?
Bg

On Jan 23, 5:31 pm, wrote:
> On the way to work last week, my Accord died on me when I took it out
> of gear (manual trans) as I approached a stop. It restarted but, would
> not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator and kept it at about
> 1000 rpms. When it's cold, it idles fine but as soon as it warms up
> you can watch the rpms drop and it will die. Restart and hold the
> accelerator and its fine. I've read that it could be clogged fuel
> filter(s) or something to do with the carb. I don't have the money to
> take to someone to have it fixed so, I'll have to do it myself and I
> don't have the money to replace this and that. BTW it's carburated
> not fuel injected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


When the engine is cold, it runs at higher rpm until the Fast Idle
Unloader pulls the fast idle cam. From what i understand, in 86-89
accord carbureted, the FIU is controled by a thermo valve. It seems to
be working, changing idle speed as the engine temp changes .

The problem is that now the FIU has pulled the cam, then the idle
speed depends on the throttle stop screw and throttle cable (TC). A TC
hardly needs adjustment but the throttle stop screw is susceptible to
shocks and vibrations if not secured properly. I would suggest an
adjustment of this item. No tools required ( tool-free style screw)

If you can get the desired idle speed after adjusting this, then make
sure that the throttle cable has enough free play (deflection)

If all fail, then you may need to take a look at the idle mixture
screw, but that should be best let to a shop.

wrote in
:

> On Jan 23, 5:31 pm, wrote:
>> On the way to work last week, my Accord died on me when I took it out
>> of gear (manual trans) as I approached a stop. It restarted but,
>> would not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator and kept it
>> at about 1000 rpms. When it's cold, it idles fine but as soon as it
>> warms up you can watch the rpms drop and it will die. Restart and
>> hold the accelerator and its fine. I've read that it could be
>> clogged fuel filter(s) or something to do with the carb. I don't
>> have the money to take to someone to have it fixed so, I'll have to
>> do it myself and I don't have the money to replace this and that.
>> BTW it's carburated not fuel injected. Any help would be
>> appreciated. Thanks
>
>
> When the engine is cold, it runs at higher rpm until the Fast Idle
> Unloader pulls the fast idle cam. From what i understand, in 86-89
> accord carbureted, the FIU is controled by a thermo valve. It seems to
> be working, changing idle speed as the engine temp changes .
>
> The problem is that now the FIU has pulled the cam, then the idle
> speed depends on the throttle stop screw and throttle cable (TC). A TC
> hardly needs adjustment but the throttle stop screw is susceptible to
> shocks and vibrations if not secured properly. I would suggest an
> adjustment of this item. No tools required ( tool-free style screw)
>
> If you can get the desired idle speed after adjusting this, then make
> sure that the throttle cable has enough free play (deflection)
>
> If all fail, then you may need to take a look at the idle mixture
> screw, but that should be best let to a shop.
>



Could be that...

Could also simply be plugged idle jets.

The throttle plate is held slightly open when cold, then is allowed to
close as the engine reaches full op temperature. This means the idle
jets don't control idle until the throttle is fully closed, which is
just about the time the car stalls.

When the OP holds the throttle open, he is shutting down the idle jet
and using other fuel delivery paths, which are not blocked.

If plugged jets are in fact the problem, some compressed air down the
idle speed screw hole should cure that fairly cheaply. Clean the gum and
sediment out of the float bowl as well.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

wrote:
> It restarted but, would not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator
> and kept it at about

I had a similar problem with my '88 carbureted accord. I would be
driving in stop and go traffic and the engine would just cut out on me.
I could always restart it but like your problem, I would have to keep
it revved up a bit to keep it going. I changed the fuel pump, cleaned
and checked everything I could think of.

Finally, I was testing the "primary slow mixture cut-off solenoid valve"
on the back of the carburetor. It's held in with one screw. It has one
wire that energizes the solenoid, and it gets its ground from the
connection to the carburetor. Turned out that over time (17+ years
then, 20 now) the grounding went bad or oxidized to the point of
failure. I simply scratched up the surfaces on the solenoid and
carburetor with sandpaper and no more problem.

I have put this solution out there before, but it can't hurt to post it
again. I hope it helps save a few nice old carbed accords!

dan

wrote in news:91389d4b-0f01-490f-9ad9-a0d047302a84
@c23g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:

> On the way to work last week, my Accord died on me when I took it out
> of gear (manual trans) as I approached a stop. It restarted but, would
> not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator and kept it at about
> 1000 rpms. When it's cold, it idles fine but as soon as it warms up
> you can watch the rpms drop and it will die. Restart and hold the
> accelerator and its fine. I've read that it could be clogged fuel
> filter(s) or something to do with the carb. I don't have the money to
> take to someone to have it fixed so, I'll have to do it myself and I
> don't have the money to replace this and that. BTW it's carburated
> not fuel injected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
>

This is not a carb problem, but a 'pre-heated air' delivery problem.
Check and repair the vacuum line to the air diversion damper
in the air intake. The carb needs 100+ deg F air in the Winter.
Pre-heated air from the exhaust manifold prevents frost and ice
build up and might boost your mpg a touch. This happened on my '87
years ago and a five minute fix was all that was needed. Good luck.

dan ) writes:
> wrote:
>> It restarted but, would not idle unless I held my foot on the accelerator
> > and kept it at about
>
> I had a similar problem with my '88 carbureted accord. I would be
> driving in stop and go traffic and the engine would just cut out on me.
> I could always restart it but like your problem, I would have to keep
> it revved up a bit to keep it going. I changed the fuel pump, cleaned
> and checked everything I could think of.
>
> Finally, I was testing the "primary slow mixture cut-off solenoid valve"
> on the back of the carburetor. It's held in with one screw. It has one
> wire that energizes the solenoid, and it gets its ground from the
> connection to the carburetor. Turned out that over time (17+ years
> then, 20 now) the grounding went bad or oxidized to the point of
> failure. I simply scratched up the surfaces on the solenoid and
> carburetor with sandpaper and no more problem.
>
> I have put this solution out there before, but it can't hurt to post it
> again. I hope it helps save a few nice old carbed accords!
>
> dan


For the OP, this ground problem could be ruled out by simply using
a lead from a VOM meter. By taking the sharp pointy end of the
lead, and getting a good connection on the slow mixture valve
(at its bracket where the hold down screw is), and connecting the
other end of the lead to the battery negative post, the car would
idle, if the ground was the culprit. A helper would be needed to
hold the engine speed up, to prevent stalling. With a good connection,
the helper lets off the gas pedal, and the engine would then idle.

With a manual trans carb Accord, the normal operation of this valve can be
felt while driving (its subtle). The valve is suppose to close (no fuel
supply to the idle circuit) above 15 MPH/24 [Km/h] (approximately
1700 rpm in second gear). Coast down from 2500 rpm, in second
gear, to about 1200 RPM and you can feel the valve open (fuel supplied
to the idle circuit) at approximately 1700 rpm. The deceleration from
2500 (or above) down to when the valve opens, is very consistent. When
the valve opens (idle circuit now receiving fuel) the deceleration is
less (engine receiving a fuel mixture from the idle circuit and providing
a little power).

A switch on the clutch pedal overrides the fuel cut off (opens the valve)
when shifting gears.

Gee, M.A. Stewart wrote:

>
> For the OP, this ground problem could be ruled out by simply using
> a lead from a VOM meter. By taking the sharp pointy end of the
> lead, and getting a good connection on the slow mixture valve
> (at its bracket where the hold down screw is), and connecting the
> other end of the lead to the battery negative post, the car would
> idle, if the ground was the culprit. A helper would be needed to
> hold the engine speed up, to prevent stalling. With a good connection,
> the helper lets off the gas pedal, and the engine would then idle.
>
> With a manual trans carb Accord, the normal operation of this valve can be
> felt while driving (its subtle). The valve is suppose to close (no fuel
> supply to the idle circuit) above 15 MPH/24 [Km/h] (approximately
> 1700 rpm in second gear). Coast down from 2500 rpm, in second
> gear, to about 1200 RPM and you can feel the valve open (fuel supplied
> to the idle circuit) at approximately 1700 rpm. The deceleration from
> 2500 (or above) down to when the valve opens, is very consistent. When
> the valve opens (idle circuit now receiving fuel) the deceleration is
> less (engine receiving a fuel mixture from the idle circuit and providing
> a little power).
>
> A switch on the clutch pedal overrides the fuel cut off (opens the valve)
> when shifting gears.
>
>
>
Gee, I should have thought of opening the hood in stop and go traffic,
jumping out and jambing a lead from a VOM meter into the "slow mixture
valve", which I was careful to call the "primary slow mixture cut-off
solenoid valve" as in the factory service manual, IN TRAFFIC. It was
INTERMITTENT! Meaning it would happen when the car was warm, and when I
would least expect it to happen. As the OP said, it only happens when
the car is warmed up, or in other words, in TRAFFIC!

It's an intermittent ground. They don't like to do bad things when
you're watching.

I think it is actually a poor design. But that's moot since no Honda
has had a carburetor for at least 15 years? (?).

dan