Floor pan replacement, part 2

Okay guys,
I appreciate the input on my previous question about floor pans. I think I
will relocate the frame to the car, slide in the replacement pans and
jacking points and then weld them in after bolting to the body. (Takes care
of alignment!)
Next Question(s).... I have only replaced sections of pans prior to this and
am wondering about the attachment of the original pans to the tunnel. Am I
dealing with spot welds or a continuous weld as came from the factory? I do
not have a spot weld drill bit. Is there an alternative to dealing with spot
welds?
All helpful replies appreciated,
Charles

They are spot welded along the tunnel. I used a jigsaw to cut out the main
part of the pan and then used my air hammer with a flat bit to get under the
remaining lip and break the spot welds. Now I just need to grind down the
area to make sure it's flat before I install my new pans.
You could probably use a good sharp chisel and a hammer if you don't have an
air hammer, but it'll take longer.

Jay

"Ervin Charles" > wrote in message
...
> Okay guys,
> I appreciate the input on my previous question about floor pans. I think
> I will relocate the frame to the car, slide in the replacement pans and
> jacking points and then weld them in after bolting to the body. (Takes
> care of alignment!)
> Next Question(s).... I have only replaced sections of pans prior to this
> and am wondering about the attachment of the original pans to the tunnel.
> Am I dealing with spot welds or a continuous weld as came from the
> factory? I do not have a spot weld drill bit. Is there an alternative to
> dealing with spot welds?
> All helpful replies appreciated,
> Charles
>

The $9.99 air guns from Harbor Freight/Northern Tools (meant for muffler and
sheet metal cutting) work great --- ya need a compressor. Use the panel
cutter attachment to get majority of pan out then use the flat slightly
curved one for the actual spot welsd. A 4" angle grinder is helpfull for
smothing the spot welds. Use a good quality auto body caulk to water proof
after the welding is doen (3M or AVECO body caulk).

"Ervin Charles" > wrote in message
...
> Okay guys,
> I appreciate the input on my previous question about floor pans. I think
> I will relocate the frame to the car, slide in the replacement pans and
> jacking points and then weld them in after bolting to the body. (Takes
> care of alignment!)
> Next Question(s).... I have only replaced sections of pans prior to this
> and am wondering about the attachment of the original pans to the tunnel.
> Am I dealing with spot welds or a continuous weld as came from the
> factory? I do not have a spot weld drill bit. Is there an alternative to
> dealing with spot welds?
> All helpful replies appreciated,
> Charles
>