fuel pump replacement gone wrong...

Ok I replaced the fuel pump and got it all put back together. But the
engine will run for about 5 to 20 seconds and just die.

In doing this I had a number of issues of concern. One. in the bottom
of the assembly that the fuel pump goes into that goes in the tank
there was a washer but there was also supposed to be a 'check valve'.
I could find no check valve.

I also put about 2 gallons of gas in the tank not 10...
and tried to start it right up as apposed to turning the ignition on
and letting the pump setup for about 20 seconds or so.

If this check valve is a real issue I will need to take the tank back
out and replace it. But the problem is I can not find this part. Any
advise on this.

Might I put more gas in and try to start it after the ignition is on
for say 20 seconds.

Thanks,
David

What kind of jeep? tank? pump?

--
___________________
HomeBrewer
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"When you decide something is impossible to do, try to stay out of the way
of the man that's doing it."

97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
fuel pump in the tank.

Does that help,

Thanks,
David

Hi David,
Should only run for about five seconds, before it automatically
shuts off, to protect us in an accident. Bring the it up to full
pressure by turning the ignition on without starting, five, ten times,
then trying to burn the air out of the system, then cycle it again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

wrote:
>
> 97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
> fuel pump in the tank.
>
> Does that help,
>
> Thanks,
> David

My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:14:43 UTC L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
> wrote:

> Hi David,
> Should only run for about five seconds, before it automatically
> shuts off, to protect us in an accident. Bring the it up to full
> pressure by turning the ignition on without starting, five, ten times,
> then trying to burn the air out of the system, then cycle it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> wrote:
> >
> > 97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
> > fuel pump in the tank.
> >
> > Does that help,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David


--
Will Honea

Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
> regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
> line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
> a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
> come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
> of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
> clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
> has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.

Or jack the front end up a little so the rail slopes up.

Actually when I did the header the fuel rail was off, and drained.
Didn't have any problem at all getting it started apart from a few
sputters as the rail cleared. Backed it down and stuck the front
up on a steep curb to get rid of the remainder.

--
DougW

So how important is the check value that goes into the fuel pump
assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
will be this weekend before the attempt is made.

>From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
air in the lines or something.

What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
But shoots gas out if pressed.

The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
out.

Thanks,
David

did pass the time by typing:
> So how important is the check value that goes into the fuel pump
> assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
> one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
> again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
> will be this weekend before the attempt is made.

The check valve prevents fuel from draining back into the tank so your
Jeep will start easier and there is less chance of air problems (stammering,
stuttering) when it's started. The check valve is easy to test with a simple
pressure gauge on the rail. Either it holds about 32psi for half an hour
or it drops to zero quickly)

>> From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
> harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
> just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
> air in the lines or something.

Possibly, don't discout the coil or other issues, check fuel pressure
and flow.

> What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
> pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
> thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
> But shoots gas out if pressed.

Correct. You found it.
http://members.cox.net/wilsond/Fixes...-test-port.jpg

> The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
> bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
> alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
> out.

Before you go ripping things apart, check the fuel pressure and flow rate.

The fuel pressure can also drop quickly if the regulator is bad.
You check the regulator by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge, starting the
engine (32 psi should show) then pull the vac line from the regulator
(located on the front of the fuel rail). Pressure should go up a few pounds.


--
DougW

On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 12:19:25 UTC "DougW"
> wrote:

> > What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
> > pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
> > thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
> > But shoots gas out if pressed.
>
> Correct. You found it.
> http://members.cox.net/wilsond/Fixes...-test-port.jpg

Yep, and if that gas is squirting out with the ignition off, you don't
have a check valve problem!

Doug had the best advice: check the fuel pressure. A guage is
something like $15 and will answer a lot of questions real fast.

--
Will Honea

Well, thank you very much to everyone who responded. This one is a
done deal. The guy I was working with looked around his garage and
eventually found the check valve. This really was not much more than a
red washer.

We pulled the tank to put this in. We remoted it. We filled it with
10 gallons of gas. I turned the key on for a quick count to 10 about
10 times. They I tried it. Only to have the car not even start. I
must have done this a dozen times. Then it started but would only run
for a second. After a dozen more times it started but would not say
running. about 5 more times and it was fine after that and fine all
afternoon drving it around....

Cool.
Thanks,
David