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How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 2nd 09, 12:23 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
Comboverfish
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 644
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.

Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG

Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
experiences.

The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
hardly be any stroke left.

Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
it to work any other way):

1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.

2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
are designed to interchange easily).

3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
enough oil. Slower is better here.

4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.

5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
becomes less than 100% effective.

6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
1/2 hour at worst.

I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
me. HTH.

Toyota MDT in MO

Ads
  #2  
Old March 14th 09, 03:03 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Hachiroku ハチロク[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,364
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On Sun, 01 Mar 2009 15:23:08 -0800, Comboverfish wrote:

> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club,


I'm sure you did!

How are you?



  #3  
Old February 22nd 15, 12:23 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

Just fixed my jack using your information and it works great. A bit messy filling it up but works like new again. Thanks.
  #4  
Old December 20th 15, 08:41 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 6:23:08 PM UTC-5, Comboverfish wrote:
> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>
> Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>
> Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> experiences.
>
> The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> hardly be any stroke left.
>
> Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> it to work any other way):
>
> 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>
> 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> are designed to interchange easily).
>
> 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> enough oil. Slower is better here.
>
> 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>
> 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> becomes less than 100% effective.
>
> 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> 1/2 hour at worst.
>
> I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> me. HTH.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO


Or you can just pop the rubber plug at the top of the cylinder (visible with the magnetic tray removed), and add oil. I do it al the time until I rebuild it with new seals.
  #5  
Old January 3rd 16, 01:28 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On Sunday, December 20, 2015 at 1:41:15 PM UTC-6, wrote:
> On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 6:23:08 PM UTC-5, Comboverfish wrote:
> > Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> > quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> > cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> > offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> > of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> > noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> > seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> > this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
> >
> > Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> > http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
> >
> > Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> > this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> > experiences.
> >
> > The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> > 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> > decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> > hardly be any stroke left.
> >
> > Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> > it to work any other way):
> >
> > 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> > This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> > service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> > close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> > Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> > apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> > absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> > unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> > completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> > slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> > plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> > spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> > turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
> >
> > 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> > ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> > oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> > through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> > keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> > avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> > since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> > are designed to interchange easily).
> >
> > 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> > As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> > you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> > enough oil. Slower is better here.
> >
> > 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> > further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> > hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> > temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
> >
> > 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> > weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> > pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> > engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> > becomes less than 100% effective.
> >
> > 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> > it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> > and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> > the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> > steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> > all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> > I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> > would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> > 1/2 hour at worst.
> >
> > I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> > plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> > me. HTH.
> >
> > Toyota MDT in MO

>
> Or you can just pop the rubber plug at the top of the cylinder (visible with the magnetic tray removed), and add oil. I do it al the time until I rebuild it with new seals.


Where did you get the seal kit?
  #6  
Old January 4th 16, 02:44 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 470
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

davidc:

Just don't jack up any DC10 engine-pylon combos
with it!
  #7  
Old January 9th 16, 07:42 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On Sunday, December 20, 2015 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-8, wrote:
> On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 6:23:08 PM UTC-5, Comboverfish wrote:
> > Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
> > quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
> > cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
> > offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
> > of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
> > noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
> > seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
> > this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
> >
> > Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
> > http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
> >
> > Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
> > this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
> > experiences.
> >
> > The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
> > 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
> > decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
> > hardly be any stroke left.
> >
> > Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
> > it to work any other way):
> >
> > 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
> > This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
> > service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
> > close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
> > Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
> > apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
> > absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
> > unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
> > completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
> > slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
> > plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
> > spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
> > turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
> >
> > 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
> > ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
> > oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
> > through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
> > keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
> > avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
> > since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
> > are designed to interchange easily).
> >
> > 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
> > As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
> > you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
> > enough oil. Slower is better here.
> >
> > 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
> > further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
> > hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
> > temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
> >
> > 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
> > weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
> > pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
> > engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
> > becomes less than 100% effective.
> >
> > 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
> > it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
> > and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
> > the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
> > steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
> > all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
> > I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
> > would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
> > 1/2 hour at worst.
> >
> > I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
> > plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
> > me. HTH.
> >
> > Toyota MDT in MO

>
> Or you can just pop the rubber plug at the top of the cylinder (visible with the magnetic tray removed), and add oil. I do it al the time until I rebuild it with new seals.


I did this with mine and it worked fine for an hour or so, then the plug popped out. It did it twice. Why is this happening?
Thank you!
Jorge
  #8  
Old January 9th 16, 08:53 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 457
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On 1/9/2016 12:42 PM, wrote:
> On Sunday, December 20, 2015 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-8, wrote:
>> On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 6:23:08 PM UTC-5, Comboverfish wrote:
>>> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
>>> quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
>>> cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
>>> offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
>>> of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
>>> noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
>>> seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
>>> this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>>>
>>> Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
>>>
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>>>
>>> Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
>>> this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
>>> experiences.
>>>
>>> The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
>>> 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
>>> decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
>>> hardly be any stroke left.
>>>
>>> Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
>>> it to work any other way):
>>>
>>> 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
>>> This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
>>> service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
>>> close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
>>> Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
>>> apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
>>> absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
>>> unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
>>> completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
>>> slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
>>> plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
>>> spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
>>> turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>>>
>>> 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
>>> ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
>>> oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
>>> through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
>>> keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
>>> avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
>>> since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
>>> are designed to interchange easily).
>>>
>>> 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
>>> As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
>>> you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
>>> enough oil. Slower is better here.
>>>
>>> 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
>>> further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
>>> hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
>>> temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>>>
>>> 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
>>> weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
>>> pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
>>> engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
>>> becomes less than 100% effective.
>>>
>>> 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
>>> it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
>>> and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
>>> the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
>>> steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
>>> all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
>>> I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
>>> would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
>>> 1/2 hour at worst.
>>>
>>> I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
>>> plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
>>> me. HTH.
>>>
>>> Toyota MDT in MO

>>
>> Or you can just pop the rubber plug at the top of the cylinder (visible with the magnetic tray removed), and add oil. I do it al the time until I rebuild it with new seals.

>
> I did this with mine and it worked fine for an hour or so, then the plug popped out. It did it twice. Why is this happening?
> Thank you!
> Jorge
>


Blocked/dirty/damaged (or in our case, improperly assembled
after rebuild) check valve.

http://www.hyjacks.com/H7.HTM

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #9  
Old January 9th 16, 11:05 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
>>>Ashton Crusher
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 24
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

On Sat, 9 Jan 2016 10:42:44 -0800 (PST), wrote:

>On Sunday, December 20, 2015 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-8, wrote:
>> On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 6:23:08 PM UTC-5, Comboverfish wrote:
>> > Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton
>> > quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a
>> > cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to
>> > offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem
>> > of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be
>> > noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The
>> > seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when
>> > this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year.
>> >
>> > Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about:
>> >
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG
>> >
>> > Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before,
>> > this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past
>> > experiences.
>> >
>> > The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about
>> > 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start
>> > decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would
>> > hardly be any stroke left.
>> >
>> > Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get
>> > it to work any other way):
>> >
>> > 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame.
>> > This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or
>> > service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be
>> > close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them.
>> > Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety
>> > apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very
>> > absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released,
>> > unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is
>> > completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under
>> > slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct
>> > plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a
>> > spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of
>> > turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns.
>> >
>> > 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the
>> > ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the
>> > oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad
>> > through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so
>> > keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To
>> > avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way,
>> > since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that
>> > are designed to interchange easily).
>> >
>> > 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole.
>> > As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If
>> > you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add
>> > enough oil. Slower is better here.
>> >
>> > 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly
>> > further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will
>> > hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug
>> > temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak.
>> >
>> > 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own
>> > weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put
>> > pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't
>> > engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke
>> > becomes less than 100% effective.
>> >
>> > 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep
>> > it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand
>> > and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove
>> > the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat
>> > steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes
>> > all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than
>> > I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I
>> > would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take
>> > 1/2 hour at worst.
>> >
>> > I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service
>> > plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for
>> > me. HTH.
>> >
>> > Toyota MDT in MO

>>
>> Or you can just pop the rubber plug at the top of the cylinder (visible with the magnetic tray removed), and add oil. I do it al the time until I rebuild it with new seals.

>
>I did this with mine and it worked fine for an hour or so, then the plug popped out. It did it twice. Why is this happening?
>Thank you!
>Jorge


Most likely you overfilled it. If the ram is extended much when you
filled it you can put in more then there is room to hold when it's
retracted. When the ram was pushed all the way back in the extra oil
was forced out the filler hole.
  #10  
Old January 10th 16, 05:02 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
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Posts: 1
Default How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack

I just used my Michelin jack, and extended it all the way to it's limit and now it won't lift any weight at all. Had to borrow a jack to get car off jack stands. It does go up, but as soon as it hits the cars frame, it just sits there, won't lift weight. Is this a case of needing fluid? I've seen no leaks. I've never added fluid or changed the fluid in the 10 or so years I've had this jack.

 




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