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Bolt Removal Problems
Update:
Unfastening the bolt connecting the rear lower control arm and trailing arm was as ugly as others in the archives reported. I never actually got it free from the bushing or its nut. I never tried a torch, but that would be my next suggestion. I eventually drilled and cut (by hand) the outside-most control arm bushing/bolt. Then I ground down the female bolt receptacle (it's not actually a nut, unfortunately, or I would have snapped it off, the way I did with the strut fork bolt) welded to the trailing arm. I used a cheap-o electric hand drill and grinding stone attachment. Grinding it down was no fun but at least I could see some kind of steady progress. Cobalt drill bits are essential but still very, very slow, even with the best cutting oil. I installed the "new" (= 8k miles used) control arm last night, attaching it with a separate nut at the trailing arm, as I think Eric and/or others suggested. The new strut and control arm did not fix the tilt, but I wasn't expecting it too. The ride seems a bit smoother, but I may have talked myself into this. I took apart the old strut in my suspension course today, borrowing the school's spring compressor. The shock absorber seemed in excellent shape at 157k miles old. The spring is a tougher call. I reckon I spent around $35 just on cutting tools for this job. About half the tools are broken or now severely worn. I'm worn, too! :-) I am contemplating doing the other side but not for another week or so. Meanwhile, the other side's bolts get sprayed with PB Blaster regularly. Not that I have much hope this will help. Moral of the story: The classic, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"? I dunno. I learned a lot: -) |
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#2
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On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 22:28:53 GMT, "Caroline"
> wrote: > I used a cheap-o electric hand drill and >grinding stone attachment. Grinding it down was no fun I bet! Is there any chance you can get ahold of an air tool? A die grinder with a 3" abrasive cutoff wheel is the weapon of choice. Electric drills just don't turn fast enough. |
#3
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"John Ings" > wrote
> On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 22:28:53 GMT, "Caroline" > > wrote: > > > I used a cheap-o electric hand drill and > >grinding stone attachment. Grinding it down was no fun > > I bet! Is there any chance you can get ahold of an air tool? > A die grinder with a 3" abrasive cutoff wheel is the weapon of choice. > Electric drills just don't turn fast enough. Hi John, thanks for the suggestion. I'm a little overbudget on "tool toys" right now, but I'll make some inquiries of classmates in my auto course and ponder it for a few weeks before I go seriously after the other rear shock assembly, if I go after it. I also want to keep an eye on my "re-design" of the one rear trailing arm/control arm linkage for awhile. At least I am now the proud owner of a 115 psi, 8 gallon reservoir, "uses oil" air compressor (which may or may not do the trick for this tool you suggest). |
#4
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On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 05:25:35 GMT, "Caroline"
> wrote: >At least I am now the proud owner of a 115 psi, 8 gallon reservoir, "uses oil" >air compressor (which may or may not do the trick for this tool you suggest). Then get a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. They're relatively cheap as air tools go. Get one without a guard or with a removable guard. They are more dangerous to use, but often you just can't get the ones with a guard into confined spaces. Small compressors sometimes don't pack enough oomph for big air tools like 3/4" impact wrenches, but they are plenty good enough for things like a die grinder, air chisels, air ratchets etc. I worked on cars for a long time before I discovered air tools, and when I did wished I had found out about them earlier. |
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