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#1
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1996 saturn sl2
I have 1996 saturn sl2. 140,000 miles, decent shape, recently when the
car is started it revs up to about 3000 rpms, then idles down to about 1000 rpms. everytime i put it in gear it idles down but when i put it in park or nuetral, it revs up and eventually comes back down It usally idles high for 8-10 seconds then goes back. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. |
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#2
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1996 saturn sl2
In order of likelihood: 1) Thoroughly clean the throttle body using Throttle
Body cleaner, an old toothbrush, and a cotton rag. 2) If that does not fix the problem, then take a look at the Coolant Temperature gauge and make sure the needle moves normally. If it no longer moves to the upper middle range when the engine is warm, then replace the Coolant Temperature Sender (CTS). 3) Also make sure the air filter and air intake is not clogged. The TB should be cleaned regularly since it gets gunked up and the throttle plate does not close completely. Bob "enduro" > wrote in message ... >I have 1996 saturn sl2. 140,000 miles, decent shape, recently when the > car is started it revs up to about 3000 rpms, then idles down to about > 1000 rpms. everytime i put it in gear it idles down but when i put it > in park or nuetral, it revs up and eventually comes back down It > usally idles high for 8-10 seconds then goes back. Any help with this > problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. |
#3
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1996 saturn sl2
Bob Shuman wrote:
> In order of likelihood: 1) Thoroughly clean the throttle body using Throttle > Body cleaner, an old toothbrush, and a cotton rag. 2) If that does not fix > the problem, then take a look at the Coolant Temperature gauge and make sure > the needle moves normally. If it no longer moves to the upper middle range > when the engine is warm, then replace the Coolant Temperature Sender (CTS). > 3) Also make sure the air filter and air intake is not clogged. > > The TB should be cleaned regularly since it gets gunked up and the throttle > plate does not close completely. I agree with the above, with the following possible exception. I'm not sure about 1996, but my 1994 SW2 has *two* temperature senders: one for the panel gauge and one for the engine computer. It is the computer's sender that will mess up performance, even if the gauge's sender is fine. So make sure that there is not a separate sender for the engine computer, even if the panel gauge reads properly. I had similar symptoms that turned out to be caused by the temperature sender. It was tough (for me) to diagnose, because I did not know about the second sender. I think it took the local garage only a few minutes to find the problem. Also, just a bad connection to the sensor can cause problems; be sure the inspect the connector on the sensor, and make sure it is correctly seated. > "enduro" > wrote in message > ... >> I have 1996 saturn sl2. 140,000 miles, decent shape, recently when the >> car is started it revs up to about 3000 rpms, then idles down to about >> 1000 rpms. everytime i put it in gear it idles down but when i put it >> in park or nuetral, it revs up and eventually comes back down It >> usally idles high for 8-10 seconds then goes back. Any help with this >> problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. > > -- NOTE: to reply, remove all punctuation from email name field Ned Forrester 508-289-2226 Applied Ocean Physics and Engineering Dept. Oceanographic Systems Lab http://adcp.whoi.edu/ Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA |
#4
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1996 saturn sl2
I believe 1996 is when they went to one CTS ... I agree with verifying the
connector and connection are good, but the CTS design makes it very prone to failure. When it fails, the controller/computer reads it as a cold engine, so it calls for more fuel delivery via the injectors which is why the engine RPM is noticeably higher. Another symptom of a defective CTS is a significant reduction in fuel economy (MPG). Good luck! Bob "Ned Forrester" > wrote in message news:gfsad2$p38 > I agree with the above, with the following possible exception. I'm not > sure about 1996, but my 1994 SW2 has *two* temperature senders: one for > the panel gauge and one for the engine computer. It is the computer's > sender that will mess up performance, even if the gauge's sender is > fine. So make sure that there is not a separate sender for the engine > computer, even if the panel gauge reads properly. > > I had similar symptoms that turned out to be caused by the temperature > sender. It was tough (for me) to diagnose, because I did not know about > the second sender. I think it took the local garage only a few minutes > to find the problem. Also, just a bad connection to the sensor can > cause problems; be sure the inspect the connector on the sensor, and > make sure it is correctly seated. |
#5
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1996 saturn sl2
And if you haven't done so already, have the stored codes read. Autozone
will do it for no charge. It may give you an indication of what the problem is (if a sensor is reading out of range), and quite often, it's better than replacing parts based on guesses. Lane http://www.evilplastic.com http://www.evilatom.com "Bob Shuman" > wrote in message ... >I believe 1996 is when they went to one CTS ... I agree with verifying the >connector and connection are good, but the CTS design makes it very prone >to failure. When it fails, the controller/computer reads it as a cold >engine, so it calls for more fuel delivery via the injectors which is why >the engine RPM is noticeably higher. Another symptom of a defective CTS is >a significant reduction in fuel economy (MPG). > > Good luck! > > Bob > > > "Ned Forrester" > wrote in message news:gfsad2$p38 >> I agree with the above, with the following possible exception. I'm not >> sure about 1996, but my 1994 SW2 has *two* temperature senders: one for >> the panel gauge and one for the engine computer. It is the computer's >> sender that will mess up performance, even if the gauge's sender is >> fine. So make sure that there is not a separate sender for the engine >> computer, even if the panel gauge reads properly. >> >> I had similar symptoms that turned out to be caused by the temperature >> sender. It was tough (for me) to diagnose, because I did not know about >> the second sender. I think it took the local garage only a few minutes >> to find the problem. Also, just a bad connection to the sensor can >> cause problems; be sure the inspect the connector on the sensor, and >> make sure it is correctly seated. > > |
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