1928 tudor wiring?

I'm interested in the simple electrical system wiring on a completely stock
1928 Ford Tudor. I've got the spring loaded plug that goes into the
distributor, but the cable has been broken off of it. (it is always
touching the metal inside in the "unretracted" position). as I understand,
the correct "pop out" switch retracts this plug. am curious as to what the
circuit is supposed to look like. can anybody share insight, web sites,
links, etc that may help? i'm a certified 12 volt installer, so the
technique is not an issue...

basically have done the following:

- battery positive to chassis (as per diagram...yes this is backwards today

- battery negative to post on starter
- generator output to driver side junction
- starter post to driver side junction
- coil (new) positive to chassis through key switch
- distributor "pop out plug" to chassis through same key switch

so bascially when the key is on, there is a complete circuit to the
distributor and coil, tho I'm not sure if this is correct. as it stands,
the engine cranks
fine, but I've got no spark (as tested by shorting connected plug electrode
to block and cranking...no blue spark). am wondering if there is a wiring
problem?

anybody got ideas?? thanks!

b

The popout switch does not retract the plug down in the distributor.
I have a half-dozen popout assemblies hanging here, so just to make
sure, I tried one before writing this.

The popout switch is just that. It is a switch. IIRC, it makes
contact to ground in the ignition circuit. I believe it was done this
way to preclude people from hot wiring the ignition.

Orrin

On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 01:53:16 GMT, "Hamilton Audio"
> wrote:

>I'm interested in the simple electrical system wiring on a completely stock
>1928 Ford Tudor. I've got the spring loaded plug that goes into the
>distributor, but the cable has been broken off of it. (it is always
>touching the metal inside in the "unretracted" position). as I understand,
>the correct "pop out" switch retracts this plug. am curious as to what the
>circuit is supposed to look like. can anybody share insight, web sites,
>links, etc that may help? i'm a certified 12 volt installer, so the
>technique is not an issue...
>
>basically have done the following:
>
>- battery positive to chassis (as per diagram...yes this is backwards today
>
>- battery negative to post on starter
>- generator output to driver side junction
>- starter post to driver side junction
>- coil (new) positive to chassis through key switch
>- distributor "pop out plug" to chassis through same key switch
>
>so bascially when the key is on, there is a complete circuit to the
>distributor and coil, tho I'm not sure if this is correct. as it stands,
>the engine cranks
>fine, but I've got no spark (as tested by shorting connected plug electrode
>to block and cranking...no blue spark). am wondering if there is a wiring
>problem?
>
>anybody got ideas?? thanks!
>
>b
>

ok then...what makes it "popout"? it is definitely spring loaded. should
the contact that goes into the distributor to go + (ground) or - (hot) ??
also, I'm using the keyswitch to interrupt the coil....as the coil is
marked, i'm not confused by this.

i've currently got the popout lead on the distributor going to ground (+ on
the battery) which is interrupted by the key switch. I'm wondering if this
is the source of my grief?

b


"Orrin Iseminger" > wrote in message
...
> The popout switch does not retract the plug down in the distributor.
> I have a half-dozen popout assemblies hanging here, so just to make
> sure, I tried one before writing this.
>
> The popout switch is just that. It is a switch. IIRC, it makes
> contact to ground in the ignition circuit. I believe it was done this
> way to preclude people from hot wiring the ignition.
>
> Orrin
>
> On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 01:53:16 GMT, "Hamilton Audio"
> > wrote:
>
> >I'm interested in the simple electrical system wiring on a completely
stock
> >1928 Ford Tudor. I've got the spring loaded plug that goes into the
> >distributor, but the cable has been broken off of it. (it is always
> >touching the metal inside in the "unretracted" position). as I
understand,
> >the correct "pop out" switch retracts this plug. am curious as to what
the
> >circuit is supposed to look like. can anybody share insight, web sites,
> >links, etc that may help? i'm a certified 12 volt installer, so the
> >technique is not an issue...
> >
> >basically have done the following:
> >
> >- battery positive to chassis (as per diagram...yes this is backwards
today
> >
> >- battery negative to post on starter
> >- generator output to driver side junction
> >- starter post to driver side junction
> >- coil (new) positive to chassis through key switch
> >- distributor "pop out plug" to chassis through same key switch
> >
> >so bascially when the key is on, there is a complete circuit to the
> >distributor and coil, tho I'm not sure if this is correct. as it stands,
> >the engine cranks
> >fine, but I've got no spark (as tested by shorting connected plug
electrode
> >to block and cranking...no blue spark). am wondering if there is a
wiring
> >problem?
> >
> >anybody got ideas?? thanks!
> >
> >b
> >
>

My responses are interspersed with your comments.

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 20:11:33 GMT, "Hamilton Audio"
> wrote:

>ok then...what makes it "popout"? it is definitely spring loaded.

The spring that makes the switch pop out is definitely not down in the
distributor!!! The spring in the distributor simply ensures
electrical contact down in there. It holds the button on the end of
the wire against a dimpled piece of metal inside the distributor.

Obviously, there is another spring inside the popout switch. I have
popout switches here that have been removed from the armored cable,
completely, and they still pop out.

> should
>the contact that goes into the distributor to go + (ground) or - (hot) ??

The contact that goes into the distributor makes electrical contact
with one terminal of the condenser (capacitor) and the movable arm of
the breaker points. When the points close, contact with ground is
made. When the points open, the path to ground is opened.

As I write this I have the internals of a Model A distributor laying
in front of me.

Now, take a look at the side of the popout switch. There is an
electrical terminal. The original Model A used a red color-coded wire
running from that terminal to one side of the coil.

The other terminal of the coil had a black lead that goes to the
junction box on the firewall. It connects to the "hot" wire coming
from the ammeter. The other terminal of the ammeter goes to the
negative (hot) terminal of the battery. (The Model A used a positve
ground.)

Someone offered to send you a Bratton's wiring diagram. Study it and
you'll see my description is correct. As I write this I have a Model
A wiring diagram in front me me.

So, stop to think about what I said. The one side of the coil is
*always* hot. The other primary terminal of the coil goes to the
popout switch. When the popout switch is closed, the circuit to the
distributor is completed.

The points in the distributor open and close as they do their job. In
effect, when this happens the points are opening and closing a path to
ground. In other words, when the points close, the coil is finally
grounded. When they open, the ciruit to ground is opened, the field
in the primary collapses, inducing an EMF in the secondary of the
coil.

>also, I'm using the keyswitch to interrupt the coil....as the coil is
>marked, i'm not confused by this.
>
>i've currently got the popout lead on the distributor going to ground (+ on
>the battery) which is interrupted by the key switch. I'm wondering if this
>is the source of my grief?

I'm not sure what you are saying, here. If you wire the side terminal
of the popout switch to one side of the coil, and the other side of
the coil to the ammeter, you'll be in business.

That is, if everything is in order down in the distributor. Soldered
connections grow old and corrode. I've found an open between the
conductor in the popout switch's armored cable and the brass button on
the end. Soldering the button back on fixed things.

Orrin
>b
>
>
>"Orrin Iseminger" > wrote in message
.. .
>> The popout switch does not retract the plug down in the distributor.
>> I have a half-dozen popout assemblies hanging here, so just to make
>> sure, I tried one before writing this.
>>
>> The popout switch is just that. It is a switch. IIRC, it makes
>> contact to ground in the ignition circuit. I believe it was done this
>> way to preclude people from hot wiring the ignition.
>>
>> Orrin
>>
>> On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 01:53:16 GMT, "Hamilton Audio"
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >I'm interested in the simple electrical system wiring on a completely
>stock
>> >1928 Ford Tudor. I've got the spring loaded plug that goes into the
>> >distributor, but the cable has been broken off of it. (it is always
>> >touching the metal inside in the "unretracted" position). as I
>understand,
>> >the correct "pop out" switch retracts this plug. am curious as to what
>the
>> >circuit is supposed to look like. can anybody share insight, web sites,
>> >links, etc that may help? i'm a certified 12 volt installer, so the
>> >technique is not an issue...
>> >
>> >basically have done the following:
>> >
>> >- battery positive to chassis (as per diagram...yes this is backwards
>today
>> >
>> >- battery negative to post on starter
>> >- generator output to driver side junction
>> >- starter post to driver side junction
>> >- coil (new) positive to chassis through key switch
>> >- distributor "pop out plug" to chassis through same key switch
>> >
>> >so bascially when the key is on, there is a complete circuit to the
>> >distributor and coil, tho I'm not sure if this is correct. as it stands,
>> >the engine cranks
>> >fine, but I've got no spark (as tested by shorting connected plug
>electrode
>> >to block and cranking...no blue spark). am wondering if there is a
>wiring
>> >problem?
>> >
>> >anybody got ideas?? thanks!
>> >
>> >b
>> >
>>
>

Did they have a big problem with car theft in 1928?

DBurch7672 wrote:
>
> Did they have a big problem with car theft in 1928?

A Ford of that era cost two years pay for a working man. Anything that valuable is
subject to being stolen. In real costs, cars are cheaper today than back then.

George Patterson
If you don't tell lies, you never have to remember what you said.

On 07 May 2004 21:57:10 GMT, (DBurch7672) wrote:

>Did they have a big problem with car theft in 1928?

I cannot answer that because I wasn't around in 1928; but, look at it
this way: The doors had locks. The ignition had a lock. Somebody
back then must have thought that security was an issue.

Orrin