99.5 2.0 - Losing compression in 1st cylinder - kicking/bucking whendriving

Pete Foley > wrote in
:

> On Jan 26, 12:34 pm, TheDM > wrote:
>> TheDM > wrote
>> .44:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > 1. ) Get a second a opinion, but don't give him idea you know whats
>> > wrong. ( A good test)
>> > 2. ) Get a new mechanic.. he's just guessing, and don't ever go
>> > back. 3. ) Get your immediate problem fixed.
>> > 4. ) Get some tools and a manual.
>> > 5. ) Fire both of them and start doing it yourself
>>
>> > My car magically quit having things go wrong with it when I started
>> > doing all the work myself. That was 9 years ago and 100,000 miles
>> > ago. It's up to 274k now.
>>
>> > Dropping a valve is not a small thing, but your bucking problem to
>> > me, sounds more like your loossing the lift pump in the fuel tank,
>> > a 40.00 part and a 10 minute replacment job. I would almost guess
>> > you aren't loosing compression in #1 and he's making it up.
>>
>> Oh one more thing, I can't stress this enough, if it needed an engine
>> rebuild, it would crappy all the time, and there would be bad noise
>> all the time. I re-read your post, while turning, my money is on the
>> in tank fuel pump... A 15 minute fuel pressure test by a real
>> mechanic would have shown that. You need to never go back to this
>> guy. Period.
>>
>> I'm in kansas btw if your close, I'll help.
>
> I've been taking it to a non-dealer VW shop that has a great
> reputation. Unfortunately I'm out in Philly - a bit from you. I
> would be trying the work myself too - I have the bently - but no
> driveway living in the city makes it hard to work on it (and I have no
> time..).
>
> It started up again REALLY BAD today. It starting doing the whole
> kicking w/ no accel - something that it hasn't done for a month. It
> seems to start after the car is warm - the first 45 mins (after
> sitting overnight ) or so it runs great. Today it seemed to start
> this when starting up from a stop at a light (doing lots of city
> driving today). It would just start kicking - my friend w/ me said it
> felt like it was coughing. And it did the problem where it would just
> be only going as fast as just idling - even w/ me flooring it the
> RPM's just bounced from 1000 - 2000 - 1000 and the car would just inch
> along - kicking all the way. A restart fixes it for a bit, but then
> it starts up again.
>
> I'm going to try another shop soon - calling them on Monday. They are
> a euro shop - not VW specific. So should I act dump or tell them my
> saga? I just can't afford to drop another 1000$ and still be stuck in
> the same spot.
>

I would act dumb and write off the diagnostic fee. If they say that
cylinder is low, maybe your guy isn't bad. But you don't want them just
confirming you need an engine rebuild if you don't need it. If you tell
them everything, they just might smell prey.

TheDM has a point...........maybe it is fuel related.
I think that your 99.5 only has one fuel pump located in the tank.
Maybe it needs a new fuel filter.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes can be read using a vag-com tool (ross-tech.com) or
go to AutoZone or some of the other auto parts stores and have those DTCs
read. The vag-com tool will usually give you much more information than the
generic code readers from AutoZone and the others.

I personally hate to just change parts or guess. I would recommend you take
your car somewhere that specializes in VWs!

Was anything done to this vehicle just before it started to act up?
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

"TheDM" > wrote in message
>
> The restart fixes it because the system primes itself again to full
> pressure when you turn the key before you start it, but it can't keep up
> with the volume it needs. It could be the main as well, 150k is about
> right for both fuel pumps.

On Jan 26, 10:53 pm, TheDM > wrote:

> You could could rent a compression tester or buy a cheapo and call the
> guy on it. Then tell him he better fix it or you will take him to small
> claims. Sounds to me like he's never really fixed the thing and sold
> you alot of parts you didn't need. My money is still on the fuel
> system. I just went through alot of what you described on my 86 last
> year, but it was just my time. It was the lift pump in the tank for me,
> but mine is an A1. It was intermittent, Finally it would only idle,
> wouldn't even rev in the driveway. I had to get towed home because of
> that lift pump, wouldn't start at all, next morning in the driveway,
> started up perfectly, warmed up 10 minutes, and then did exactly as you
> described. It's the part about you turning and it happening that really
> sets it for me. How much gas did you have, full tank? I bet it runs
> better on a full tank.

Actually - Yesterday I filled up in the morning - so I had a full tank
when it was acting at its worst. I decided to put in 93 (I usually
only put in 87) to see if that would help - but obviously not.

The guy I was seeing did seem sincere. He first just did the speed
sensor, gave it back to me. Still had probs so I took it back - then
he gave the trottle (BTW - I had codes for each of these - and I
confirmed - I usually went to autozone before I went there so I knew
the codes ahead of time). That didn't help, so he put back in my old
throttle and gave me a new cam-shaft position sensor. Tried that - no
luck. Then he gave me the new coils to fix the misfires in 1 + 2 and
told me about the compression loss. Then that didn't work, so he put
back in my new throttle and I just cashed out at that point. He kept
it for about 3 days each time and really tested it a lot and only
changed me labor for replacing the parts. But they now say the won't
do any more work on this until I get the head work done.

But I agree that I need another set of eyes on this. Maybe I'll
shoot over to Autozone today to get the codes it threw yesterday.

On Jan 26, 10:54 pm, TheDM > wrote:

> The restart fixes it because the system primes itself again to full
> pressure when you turn the key before you start it, but it can't keep up
> with the volume it needs. It could be the main as well, 150k is about
> right for both fuel pumps.

Someone also suggested to me that there could be dirt/pebble whatever
in the tank that's getting sucked up when I accel, clogging it. Then
after restart it's fallen back into the tank...

I also think I only have a single pump - I think it is original - I'll
look thru my records and see. So 150k is about it's lifetime?

On Jan 27, 12:56 am, "dave AKA vwdoc1"
> wrote:
> TheDM has a point...........maybe it is fuel related.
> I think that your 99.5 only has one fuel pump located in the tank.
> Maybe it needs a new fuel filter.
>
> Diagnostic Trouble Codes can be read using a vag-com tool (ross-tech.com) or
> go to AutoZone or some of the other auto parts stores and have those DTCs
> read. The vag-com tool will usually give you much more information than the
> generic code readers from AutoZone and the others.
>
> I personally hate to just change parts or guess. I would recommend you take
> your car somewhere that specializes in VWs!
>
> Was anything done to this vehicle just before it started to act up?

I'll get the codes today and post them here. My mechanic was only
changing the parts that had codes thrown - so he wansn't replacing
parts too randomly. And it is the most recommended VW shop in the
area. And no - nothing done to my car - no mods, etc.

On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 19:21:35 -0800 (PST), Pete Foley
> wrote:

>It started up again REALLY BAD today. It starting doing the whole
>kicking w/ no accel - something that it hasn't done for a month. It
>seems to start after the car is warm - the first 45 mins (after
>sitting overnight ) or so it runs great.

I gave you a hint... Replace your plug wires maybe?

On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 19:29:17 -0800 (PST), Pete Foley
> wrote:

>
>> What was amazing was that a new set of plug wires restored the
>> compression perfectly! Wow...
>
>
>I had new plugs and wires put in earlier this year when I had a bad
>electrical problem (the car would just suddenly die w/ out warning at
>any point - and I could not get it restarted unless I waited a few
>hours - but that was in April or so and was fine after they replaced
>the wires and a relay - forget which one...)

Plug wires are not that expensive, I'd replace them again. As well,
replace the cap/rotor at the same time. The fact you replaced them a
year ago doesn't mean anything, or perhaps it indicates that they are
probably bad now.

What brand did you replace them with? Bosch or something 'universal'
from a chain autoparts store?

OK I will assume that this is your vehicle.................but correct me if
I am mistaken!
1999.5 Golf 2.0 (AEG engine) automatic
Drive by Cable
Ignition transformer is commonly called a coil pack on your engine with no
distributor cap nor distributor rotor.
You still have spark plug wires and no individual ign coils.


JMHO
Sometimes if you have multiple DTCs then try to address the most important
one and the others may clear up.
If you have multiple cylinders misfiring and low engine idle speed then it
could cause your ECM to try to compensate by opening the throttle body plate
increasing air flow into the engine. BUT it may max out causing a throttle
body error.
The throttle body should not cause a misfire!
Vacuum leaks might cause a lean condition and a misfire.
Incorrect Spark Plugs might cause a misfire.
Bad fuel injectors may cause a misfire.
Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator might cause a misfire if it is dumping too much
gas into its vacuum hose. Might even throw a 02 sensor DTC!

That is why it is necessary to read the codes and not ASSuME that all things
are bad if you get multiple codes. Start correcting the easy DTCs (vacuum
leaks) and then hope that they correct the larger DTCs.

If that shop is a good VW shop then he should have the vag-com tool and can
print you up copies of the DTCs.
He should be able to fax them or email those DTCs over to you also. ;-)
I am sure that they want the problems with your car resolved also.

JMHO
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)



"Pete Foley" > wrote in message
...
> On Jan 27, 12:56 am, "dave AKA vwdoc1"
> > wrote:
>> TheDM has a point...........maybe it is fuel related.
>> I think that your 99.5 only has one fuel pump located in the tank.
>> Maybe it needs a new fuel filter.
>>
>> Diagnostic Trouble Codes can be read using a vag-com tool (ross-tech.com)
>> or
>> go to AutoZone or some of the other auto parts stores and have those DTCs
>> read. The vag-com tool will usually give you much more information than
>> the
>> generic code readers from AutoZone and the others.
>>
>> I personally hate to just change parts or guess. I would recommend you
>> take
>> your car somewhere that specializes in VWs!
>>
>> Was anything done to this vehicle just before it started to act up?
>
> I'll get the codes today and post them here. My mechanic was only
> changing the parts that had codes thrown - so he wansn't replacing
> parts too randomly. And it is the most recommended VW shop in the
> area. And no - nothing done to my car - no mods, etc.
>
>
>

there's too much contradiction of information within your first post. so he
said it has low compression in #1 cylinder, that can be only caused by 2
things. 1- mechanical such as valves or rings. 2-excessive oil pressure
holding lifters pumped up.

1-get a compression check
2-normally would cause issues on all cylinders
3-low compression will cause "fake" misfire faults.
4- sounds like your present mechanic is well over his head
5-maybe well worth a dealer checking your concern

"Pete Foley" > wrote in message
...
> I've been having some major problems over the last few months w/ my
> 99.5 2.0 Golf - all related to losing throttle, kicking/bucking, and
> stalling.
>
> In short - a few months ago I was driving and suddenly lost all
> throttle and the car kicked its way to halt (did not stall). After a
> restart it was fine. A few weeks later - same thing. But when I was
> stopped I just floored it and the rpm bounced from 1000 - 2000 - 1000
> etc about 2x a second. After a restart it was kicking and would crap
> out after a while. Eventually it would completely stall.
>
> Anyways - had the following replaced over several visits to the
> mechanic (the car was throwing codes for each, but he would do them 1
> by 1 and mix-and-match to see if it was just one part throwing the
> others off - but at this point they are all new):
>
> Speed Sensor
> Cam Shaft Position Sensor
> Coil Packs
> Throttle Body
>
> He reprogrammed the CPU too - he could not find a replacement from a
> junkyard and was thinking maybe it was just trowing the wrong codes.
>
> At this point I'm not stalling, but after about 45mins of driving it
> will start to buck and kick for a few minutes - then stop for a little
> bit - then start up again later. When kicking it as about 2-3 kicks a
> second - maybe sutter or stumbling is a better description. It also
> seems to happen more often when I'm going around a right had turn.
> Also if I'm stuck in traffic it's the worst. It is OK when I'm
> idling, but when giving it gas it is kicking.
>
> He said that I'm loosing a lot of compression in my 1st cylinder (it's
> dropping to 60-80). Would this be causing this kicking/bucking
> behavior? He said there's a leak in the entrance/exit valve and would
> need a rebuild. Approx 1000$.
>
> I'm going to take it elsewhere for a 2nd opinion, but does this sound
> right? Any ideas if it could be anything else?
>
> Many thanks. I can't really afford to do that rebuild if it isn't
> going to fix this problem once and for all - I've dropped about $1000
> already on this problem. I've got 148,000 miles on the engine.

OK - Just got the codes:

DTC P0341 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Performance
- I've had this replaced on 12/03/07 - #06A 905 161B

DTC P1543 A/C System Performance
- This one seems new.