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#111
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TeGGer® wrote:
> There is the possibility that the cable is rusted internally. Is the rubber > bellows still intact or is it split? The cable and boot are fine. It moves perfectly smoothly. It ratchets the arm from a retracted position exactly similar to the right side, when the p-brake handle is fully released, all the way to the stop pin that looks like a little mushroom. This clearly indicates that there is a problem between the point at which the arm is attached to the cam shaft and the piston. If I read the diagram right it could possibly be simply that the parking nut and lever are loose, so I'll definitely check those. Thanks for the push. |
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#112
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TeGGer® wrote:
> The dust boot is not the same as the hydraulic seal. I hope you're not > confusing the two. The hydraulic seal is NEVER "loose from rust". Good. I was indeed referring to the dust boot, and it was pretty obvious when I had the piston halfway out and the dust boot pulled back that something else was holding the hydraulic seal--I wrongly assumed that it was the incredibly close fit between the piston and the bore that did the trick, but it does make sense that a rubber seal would be back there too. Thanks for the info. |
#113
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Abeness wrote:
> This clearly indicates that there is a problem between the point at > which the arm is attached to the cam shaft and the piston. If I read the > diagram right it could possibly be simply that the parking nut and lever > are loose, so I'll definitely check those. Thanks for the push. The plot thickens... I disassembled the parking arm assembly. The cam is fine (no rust), the cam boot is supple, the parking nut, washer, and arm were correctly seated, if very rusty. The cam rotates, and in fact does move the piston a bit--looked like ~1/8", but that required full movement of the arm. I was unable to compare the movement on the other side today due to rain that started earlier than hoped (damn!). Anyone know offhand just how far the p-brake arm is supposed to move the piston? I'm wondering whether merely screwing the piston in and out during the last examination reset things, and I just didn't give it enough time to self-adjust. How long/how many pedal pushes is that supposed to take, anyway? I've only driven ~10 miles since I rotated the piston, but we've got a nice long trip coming up over the weekend that will surely adjust it, unless part of the adjusting mechanism behind the piston is somehow damaged or insufficiently lubricated. I suppose it's also possible that the p-brake cable on the left side is stretched out too much to be acceptable. Guess I'll have to disassemble both sides at my next opportunity, to compare the mechanisms more closely. Grrrr. |
#114
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Thanks yet again, Tegger. Will report back when I can check further
(probably not for a week or two). |
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