1984 Rabbit GTI Replacing Lower Control Arm ?

HI

I have a 1984 Rabbit GTI with about 350k miles!!!

The drivers side control arm rear bushing is cracked and torn. When I drive
very slow ( 0-5 mph) like rolling up a driveway from the street where there
is about an inch threshold I get a loud pop. This pop never occurs while
driving above about 30 mph. Always pops when driving slow in a bumpy
unpaved road like the parking lot in the park. I looked around underneath
and everything else looks fine (ball joint and strut bearing).

Since the control arm bushing is cracked and a small piece missing I think
that this is the problem.

My two concerns:

I noticed if I order the part that the rabbit and the gti rabbit list the
same part number. What about the holes for the sway bar? Keeping my
fingers crossed that they all have holes for the sway bar. The regular
rabbit didn't have a sway bar.

Second question. I remove the control arm with the car jacked up and the
wheel off? I will need to disconnect the sway bar from that side. Is it
possible to disconnect the sway bar just on one side where it mounts under
the control arm? Is the sway bar under tension? Thinking it might be if I
only jack up one side?
Just worried that I might have to fight with the sway bar to get it back on?

Thanks

I,m confused. The control arm bushing is pressed in or out. It doesn't have
anything to do with the sway bar. Ok , maybe you are buying the whole
control arm.. I've never seen a control arm without the hole for the sway
bar. If I did I'd drill it myself. I,d also disconnect both sides of the
sway bar. And I hope you know for sure the control arm has the parts with
it. I,ve always got them bare and you have to install the kit for the
bushing and ball joint. The bushing has a must use sleeve for the install.
To get it in the hole without ripping it. Good luck.
"Tube Audio" > wrote in message
...
> HI
>
> I have a 1984 Rabbit GTI with about 350k miles!!!
>
> The drivers side control arm rear bushing is cracked and torn. When I
> drive
> very slow ( 0-5 mph) like rolling up a driveway from the street where
> there
> is about an inch threshold I get a loud pop. This pop never occurs while
> driving above about 30 mph. Always pops when driving slow in a bumpy
> unpaved road like the parking lot in the park. I looked around underneath
> and everything else looks fine (ball joint and strut bearing).
>
> Since the control arm bushing is cracked and a small piece missing I think
> that this is the problem.
>
> My two concerns:
>
> I noticed if I order the part that the rabbit and the gti rabbit list the
> same part number. What about the holes for the sway bar? Keeping my
> fingers crossed that they all have holes for the sway bar. The regular
> rabbit didn't have a sway bar.
>
> Second question. I remove the control arm with the car jacked up and the
> wheel off? I will need to disconnect the sway bar from that side. Is it
> possible to disconnect the sway bar just on one side where it mounts under
> the control arm? Is the sway bar under tension? Thinking it might be if
> I
> only jack up one side?
> Just worried that I might have to fight with the sway bar to get it back
> on?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>

Tube Audio wrote:
> HI
>
> I have a 1984 Rabbit GTI with about 350k miles!!!
>
> The drivers side control arm rear bushing is cracked and torn. When I drive
> very slow ( 0-5 mph) like rolling up a driveway from the street where there
> is about an inch threshold I get a loud pop. This pop never occurs while
> driving above about 30 mph. Always pops when driving slow in a bumpy
> unpaved road like the parking lot in the park. I looked around underneath
> and everything else looks fine (ball joint and strut bearing).
>
> Since the control arm bushing is cracked and a small piece missing I think
> that this is the problem.
>
> My two concerns:
>
> I noticed if I order the part that the rabbit and the gti rabbit list the
> same part number. What about the holes for the sway bar? Keeping my
> fingers crossed that they all have holes for the sway bar. The regular
> rabbit didn't have a sway bar.
>
> Second question. I remove the control arm with the car jacked up and the
> wheel off? I will need to disconnect the sway bar from that side. Is it
> possible to disconnect the sway bar just on one side where it mounts under
> the control arm? Is the sway bar under tension? Thinking it might be if I
> only jack up one side?
> Just worried that I might have to fight with the sway bar to get it back on?
>
> Thanks
>

I've replaced the control arm on a Scirocco (same chassis) before and
don't remember having any problem. You do know that if you order a new
control arm (you might as well, they are so cheap) that you still will
need both bushings and a ball joint, right? the control arms come bare
unless the seller specifically tells you that it has bushings pressed
into it, and replacing the control arm without replacing the ball joint
is silly because those are so cheap as well.

nate


--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

I would disconnect the sway bar on both sides. I would also replace
all bushings and ball joints. I have seen just the bushings available.
I replaced the ball joints on my 84 GTI and it had less miles than
yours but still more than 200,000 miles.

On Thu, 21 Sep 2006 04:11:47 GMT, "Tube Audio" >
wrote:

>HI
>
>I have a 1984 Rabbit GTI with about 350k miles!!!
>
>The drivers side control arm rear bushing is cracked and torn. When I drive
>very slow ( 0-5 mph) like rolling up a driveway from the street where there
>is about an inch threshold I get a loud pop. This pop never occurs while
>driving above about 30 mph. Always pops when driving slow in a bumpy
>unpaved road like the parking lot in the park. I looked around underneath
>and everything else looks fine (ball joint and strut bearing).
>
>Since the control arm bushing is cracked and a small piece missing I think
>that this is the problem.
>
>My two concerns:
>
>I noticed if I order the part that the rabbit and the gti rabbit list the
>same part number. What about the holes for the sway bar? Keeping my
>fingers crossed that they all have holes for the sway bar. The regular
>rabbit didn't have a sway bar.
>
>Second question. I remove the control arm with the car jacked up and the
>wheel off? I will need to disconnect the sway bar from that side. Is it
>possible to disconnect the sway bar just on one side where it mounts under
>the control arm? Is the sway bar under tension? Thinking it might be if I
>only jack up one side?
>Just worried that I might have to fight with the sway bar to get it back on?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>

and aren't you supposed to pre-load the control arms before torquing down
the bushing bolts?
It can be done by fully installing the control arms but leaving the bushing
bolts slightly loose until the front tires are supporting the weight of the
vehicle again. Ramps are one way to allow you access under the vehicle or
jackstands under the control arms is another way. Torque down those bolts
and enjoy your Rabbit again! ;-)

PLEASE BE SAFE AND USE SAFETY DEVICES!