01 L-series stereo - questions

I have two 2001 L series sedans, an L200 and an L300. Each one has
recently developed stereo problems, some of the low range speakers no
longer play (one in the L2 and 3! in the L3). The tweeters seem fine.

I have NEVER had a factory stereo fail in any way ever before (and
I've owned about 15 cars), except a cassette player in a Mustang II.

Is this fairly typical for Saturns? What about other GMs, similar
problems?

What is a new original equipment stereo going to cost?

Better off replacing with an aftermarket stereo?

Thanks in advance, Tom

Never had a problem (yet) with the audio in my '01 lw300 (and I often crank
the volume).
Do you know yet if it is the speaker, wiring or radio?
I have the service manual for my car if you need info.


"T" > wrote in message
om...
>I have two 2001 L series sedans, an L200 and an L300. Each one has
> recently developed stereo problems, some of the low range speakers no
> longer play (one in the L2 and 3! in the L3). The tweeters seem fine.
>
> I have NEVER had a factory stereo fail in any way ever before (and
> I've owned about 15 cars), except a cassette player in a Mustang II.
>
> Is this fairly typical for Saturns? What about other GMs, similar
> problems?
>
> What is a new original equipment stereo going to cost?
>
> Better off replacing with an aftermarket stereo?
>
> Thanks in advance, Tom

Any chance the speakers covers were cleaned? Years ago I thought I was
carefully cleaning the speaker cover on a toyota but the speaker was dead
afterwards I guess from shorting out.


"T" > wrote in message
om...
>I have two 2001 L series sedans, an L200 and an L300. Each one has
> recently developed stereo problems, some of the low range speakers no
> longer play (one in the L2 and 3! in the L3). The tweeters seem fine.
>
> I have NEVER had a factory stereo fail in any way ever before (and
> I've owned about 15 cars), except a cassette player in a Mustang II.
>
> Is this fairly typical for Saturns? What about other GMs, similar
> problems?
>
> What is a new original equipment stereo going to cost?
>
> Better off replacing with an aftermarket stereo?
>
> Thanks in advance, Tom

I have only gone as far as removing the stereo from the dashboard to
see if the connections on the back had become disconnected,
reinstallation changed nothing.

The speakers have not been cleaned or gotten wet, and especially not
all three of them in the L300.

I suppose the next step is to ensure the problems are the stereo or
the speakers. I do not have a wiring diagram of the connector on the
rear of the stereo so I cannot determine which speaker is wired to
which pins.

Any chance of sending me the connector wiring diagram out of the
manual?

Cheers, Tom


"Art" > wrote in message hlink.net>...
> Any chance the speakers covers were cleaned? Years ago I thought I was
> carefully cleaning the speaker cover on a toyota but the speaker was dead
> afterwards I guess from shorting out.
>
>
> "T" > wrote in message
> om...
> >I have two 2001 L series sedans, an L200 and an L300. Each one has
> > recently developed stereo problems, some of the low range speakers no
> > longer play (one in the L2 and 3! in the L3). The tweeters seem fine.
> >
> > I have NEVER had a factory stereo fail in any way ever before (and
> > I've owned about 15 cars), except a cassette player in a Mustang II.
> >
> > Is this fairly typical for Saturns? What about other GMs, similar
> > problems?
> >
> > What is a new original equipment stereo going to cost?
> >
> > Better off replacing with an aftermarket stereo?
> >
> > Thanks in advance, Tom

Tom,
Will try to send them to you tonight from home. Do you have a fax # I can
send to or would you prefer I send to your hotmail account? Easier for me to
fax.
Reply to: oppie(at)cloud9.net


"T" > wrote in message
om...
>
> Any chance of sending me the connector wiring diagram out of the
> manual?
>
> Cheers, Tom
>
>

Main radio plug for uplevel system is Gray
Shown as A1-A12, B1-B12


| |
| A1 A12 |
| B1 B12 |
|

A8 BRN LR SPKR (+)
A9 YEL LR SPKR (-)

A10 DK GRN RF SPKR (-)
A11 LT GRN RF SPKR (+)

B1 ORG BATT (CLOCK) HOT ALL TIMES
B2 YEL IGN
B3 ORG BATT (CD CHANGER)
B4 GRY DISPLAY DIM+

B8 TAN LF SPKR(+)
B9 GRY LF SPKR(-)

B10 LT BLU RR SPKR(-)
B11 DK BLU RR SPKR(+)

B12 BRN PARK LAMP INPUT
A12 BLK GROUND

Woofers are in parallel with tweeters. Tweeter has a series capacitor
(crossover) built in.

Unless you have the premium amplifier system that has a separate booster
amp, it would appear that your woofers are somehow blown or connector in
door is defective.

The premium system has the front woofers and tweeters paralleled but has 4
separate amplifiers for the rear woofers(2) and tweeters(2).


Hope this points you in the correct direction.

"Oppie" > wrote in message
...
> Tom,
> Will try to send them to you tonight from home. Do you have a fax # I can
> send to or would you prefer I send to your hotmail account? Easier for me
> to fax.
> Reply to: oppie(at)cloud9.net
>
>
> "T" > wrote in message
> om...
>>
>> Any chance of sending me the connector wiring diagram out of the
>> manual?
>>
>> Cheers, Tom
>>
>>
>
>

Wow, Oppie,

Sorry. I've been offline for a few days.

Thanks for the info, that was exactly what I was hoping for.

From the sound of things (tweeter works, corresponding woofer
doesn't), I have a few dead woofers. Weird.

If you would like to fax me the manual pages, I would appreciate it.
I do have a fax at work, but do not have the number right now. I can
send it via e-mail tomorrow.

If you can scan it to a PDF file, go ahead and send it to my hotmail
account.

Thanks again.

Cheers,

Tom



"Oppie" > wrote in message >...
> Main radio plug for uplevel system is Gray
> Shown as A1-A12, B1-B12
>
>
> | |
> | A1 A12 |
> | B1 B12 |
> |
>
> A8 BRN LR SPKR (+)
> A9 YEL LR SPKR (-)
>
> A10 DK GRN RF SPKR (-)
> A11 LT GRN RF SPKR (+)
>
> B1 ORG BATT (CLOCK) HOT ALL TIMES
> B2 YEL IGN
> B3 ORG BATT (CD CHANGER)
> B4 GRY DISPLAY DIM+
>
> B8 TAN LF SPKR(+)
> B9 GRY LF SPKR(-)
>
> B10 LT BLU RR SPKR(-)
> B11 DK BLU RR SPKR(+)
>
> B12 BRN PARK LAMP INPUT
> A12 BLK GROUND
>
> Woofers are in parallel with tweeters. Tweeter has a series capacitor
> (crossover) built in.
>
> Unless you have the premium amplifier system that has a separate booster
> amp, it would appear that your woofers are somehow blown or connector in
> door is defective.
>
> The premium system has the front woofers and tweeters paralleled but has 4
> separate amplifiers for the rear woofers(2) and tweeters(2).
>
>
> Hope this points you in the correct direction.
>
> "Oppie" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Tom,
> > Will try to send them to you tonight from home. Do you have a fax # I can
> > send to or would you prefer I send to your hotmail account? Easier for me
> > to fax.
> > Reply to: oppie(at)cloud9.net
> >
> >
> > "T" > wrote in message
> > om...
> >>
> >> Any chance of sending me the connector wiring diagram out of the
> >> manual?
> >>
> >> Cheers, Tom
> >>
> >>
> >
> >

Like I said, the fax is easier.
Tell me exactly what you need since the manual is scattered all over the
place and the index stinks.
(btw you can buy a manual online from www.helminc.com for $140)

You might want to check with an ohmmeter from the radio connector the
speaker circuits for opens first. If the circuit is open, trace back to the
speaker and see if the voice coil itself is open or if it is a
wiring/connector issue. If the voice coil is open, there is a possibility
that there is a problem with the radio. Both speaker leads are floating
above ground and typically sit at an average voltage of battery/2 or 6V. If
one wire gets grounded accidentally, it can blow the speaker, amplifier or
both. If you measure the DC voltage across a working speaker it should be 0.
If something is crashed and there is a DC voltage on the speaker bus, it
will not kill the tweeter. The tweeter has a built in crossover capacitor
which blocks any dc voltage.
Oppie
'01 lw300

"T" > wrote in message
om...
> Wow, Oppie,
>
> Sorry. I've been offline for a few days.
>
> Thanks for the info, that was exactly what I was hoping for.
>
> From the sound of things (tweeter works, corresponding woofer
> doesn't), I have a few dead woofers. Weird.
>
> If you would like to fax me the manual pages, I would appreciate it.
> I do have a fax at work, but do not have the number right now. I can
> send it via e-mail tomorrow.
>
> If you can scan it to a PDF file, go ahead and send it to my hotmail
> account.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> "Oppie" > wrote in message
> >...
>> Main radio plug for uplevel system is Gray
>> Shown as A1-A12, B1-B12
>>
>>
>> | |
>> | A1 A12 |
>> | B1 B12 |
>> |
>>
>> A8 BRN LR SPKR (+)
>> A9 YEL LR SPKR (-)
>>
>> A10 DK GRN RF SPKR (-)
>> A11 LT GRN RF SPKR (+)
>>
>> B1 ORG BATT (CLOCK) HOT ALL TIMES
>> B2 YEL IGN
>> B3 ORG BATT (CD CHANGER)
>> B4 GRY DISPLAY DIM+
>>
>> B8 TAN LF SPKR(+)
>> B9 GRY LF SPKR(-)
>>
>> B10 LT BLU RR SPKR(-)
>> B11 DK BLU RR SPKR(+)
>>
>> B12 BRN PARK LAMP INPUT
>> A12 BLK GROUND
>>
>> Woofers are in parallel with tweeters. Tweeter has a series capacitor
>> (crossover) built in.
>>
>> Unless you have the premium amplifier system that has a separate booster
>> amp, it would appear that your woofers are somehow blown or connector in
>> door is defective.
>>
>> The premium system has the front woofers and tweeters paralleled but has
>> 4
>> separate amplifiers for the rear woofers(2) and tweeters(2).
>>
>>
>> Hope this points you in the correct direction.
>>
>> "Oppie" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > Tom,
>> > Will try to send them to you tonight from home. Do you have a fax # I
>> > can
>> > send to or would you prefer I send to your hotmail account? Easier for
>> > me
>> > to fax.
>> > Reply to: oppie(at)cloud9.net
>> >
>> >
>> > "T" > wrote in message
>> > om...
>> >>
>> >> Any chance of sending me the connector wiring diagram out of the
>> >> manual?
>> >>
>> >> Cheers, Tom
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >

Remember that the tweeters have a capacitor in series with them. This blocks
any net DC voltage that might appear on the speaker bus. Probably the next
step is opening up the inside door panel to check the woofer connections and
if the voice coil is open. I've been hearing that it is easier to remove the
outer (plastic) door skin than the inner. Don't know if you can get to the
connectors and speaker from the outside. If the speaker has to be changed,
it has to be removed from the interior side.

You should also measure the DC voltage between the radio speaker output
terminals. Should be no more than .25V. Do this with the radio on and volume
down.

"T" > wrote in message
om...
> Oppie, Thanks.
>
> I think I have enough to do some cursory checks with my ohmmeter.
>
> I am scratching my head about the tweeters working and the midrange
> speakers not, considering that they are in parallel.
>
> If I need any more info I will be sure to make noise (unlike three of
> my stereo channels).
>
> Thanks again, you have gone above and beyond the call.
>
> Tom
>
>
>