Jetta Rear Hatch

2000 Jetta rear hatch will not open. You can hear the servo run when you hit
the key remote, button on the driver's door and while using the key in the
lock. Still no joy. Any way to open it up to get a look at the lock?

Thanks in advance,
Ray

On Oct 14, 10:46*am, "lobo" > wrote:
> 2000 Jetta rear hatch will not open. You can hear the servo run when you hit
> the key remote, button on the driver's door and while using the key in the
> lock. Still no joy. Any way to open it up to get a look at the lock?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ray

Can it be gotten-to from the inside? Typically, there is an emergency
release somewhere inside - although I am not familar with the Jetta. I
assume this is a wagon as you are calling it a hatch vs. trunk/boot
lid.

With our 1999 Eurovan, when it sticks (usually from some object
pressing hard against it from the inside), a hard PULL gets it to
open. We do lubricate the lock regularly, however.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

> wrote in message
...
On Oct 14, 10:46 am, "lobo" > wrote:
> 2000 Jetta rear hatch will not open. You can hear the servo run when you
> hit
> the key remote, button on the driver's door and while using the key in the
> lock. Still no joy. Any way to open it up to get a look at the lock?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ray

Can it be gotten-to from the inside? Typically, there is an emergency
release somewhere inside - although I am not familar with the Jetta. I
assume this is a wagon as you are calling it a hatch vs. trunk/boot
lid.

With our 1999 Eurovan, when it sticks (usually from some object
pressing hard against it from the inside), a hard PULL gets it to
open. We do lubricate the lock regularly, however.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Thanks Peter,
It is the trunk lid. Being a big guy, I was trying to avoid having to drop
the back seats and crawl inside. Will have to do so though to see if there
is a emergency release.
Ray in Texas

On Oct 14, 11:09*am, "lobo" > wrote:

> It is the trunk lid. Being a big guy, I was trying to avoid having to drop
> the back seats and crawl inside. Will have to do so though to see if there
> is a emergency release.

When you do, bring your flashlights and a Philips screwdriver.
Apparently there is a plastic cover and then a thin lever to pull that
will release the trunk. I called my mechanic who is something of a
specialist in these things. He was glad to help.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

> wrote in message
...
On Oct 14, 11:09 am, "lobo" > wrote:

> It is the trunk lid. Being a big guy, I was trying to avoid having to drop
> the back seats and crawl inside. Will have to do so though to see if there
> is a emergency release.

When you do, bring your flashlights and a Philips screwdriver.
Apparently there is a plastic cover and then a thin lever to pull that
will release the trunk. I called my mechanic who is something of a
specialist in these things. He was glad to help.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Thanks a bunch for making the call Peter.
I crawled my big butt in there and removed about 15 screws to remove the
panel. Found a broken plastic cam arm that pops the trunk latch. Why they
would make something like that out of plastic, is beyond me. Like your
mechanic said, I was able to pop the trunk by pulling the lever making it a
lot better to work on from the outside. Off to the dealer to get a
replacement as they have three in stock.

Ray in Texas

On Oct 14, 12:46*pm, "lobo" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Oct 14, 11:09 am, "lobo" > wrote:
>
> > It is the trunk lid. Being a big guy, I was trying to avoid having to drop
> > the back seats and crawl inside. Will have to do so though to see if there
> > is a emergency release.
>
> When you do, bring your flashlights and a Philips screwdriver.
> Apparently there is a plastic cover and then a thin lever to pull that
> will release the trunk. I called my mechanic who is something of a
> specialist in these things. He was glad to help.
>
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
>
> Thanks a bunch for making the call Peter.
> I crawled my big butt in there and removed about 15 screws to remove the
> panel. Found a broken plastic cam arm that pops the trunk latch. Why they
> would make something like that out of plastic, is beyond me. Like your
> mechanic said, I was able to pop the trunk by pulling the lever making it a
> lot better to work on from the outside. Off to the dealer to get a
> replacement as they have three in stock.
>
> Ray in Texas

I am glad you survived the experience with your sense of humor intact!

Just a random thought, if you have the clearances - from the old one,
you will be able to determine the weak-spot. It might be possible to
reinforce that spot on the new one with epoxy and maybe a piece of
stiff wire or brass or steel stock. I have done such with H or U-
shaped material by filling in the appropriate section and laying a bit
of metal in the fill. I have also repaired round-stock with a piece of
brass tubing and epoxy.

Again, a random thought.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

> wrote in message
...
On Oct 14, 12:46 pm, "lobo" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Oct 14, 11:09 am, "lobo" > wrote:
>
> > It is the trunk lid. Being a big guy, I was trying to avoid having to
> > drop
> > the back seats and crawl inside. Will have to do so though to see if
> > there
> > is a emergency release.
>
> When you do, bring your flashlights and a Philips screwdriver.
> Apparently there is a plastic cover and then a thin lever to pull that
> will release the trunk. I called my mechanic who is something of a
> specialist in these things. He was glad to help.
>
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
>
> Thanks a bunch for making the call Peter.
> I crawled my big butt in there and removed about 15 screws to remove the
> panel. Found a broken plastic cam arm that pops the trunk latch. Why they
> would make something like that out of plastic, is beyond me. Like your
> mechanic said, I was able to pop the trunk by pulling the lever making it
> a
> lot better to work on from the outside. Off to the dealer to get a
> replacement as they have three in stock.
>
> Ray in Texas

I am glad you survived the experience with your sense of humor intact!

Just a random thought, if you have the clearances - from the old one,
you will be able to determine the weak-spot. It might be possible to
reinforce that spot on the new one with epoxy and maybe a piece of
stiff wire or brass or steel stock. I have done such with H or U-
shaped material by filling in the appropriate section and laying a bit
of metal in the fill. I have also repaired round-stock with a piece of
brass tubing and epoxy.

Again, a random thought.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Thanks Peter. You have to have some humor sometimes when working on
automobiles. Otherwise they will get you down for sure.
I thought about reinforcing it prior to replacing with the new unit. Did
that fix with the a/c blend actuator door on my Mark VIII. Again weak
plastic part. Problem with that repair was the partial removal of the dash.
Real pain in the rear. Wrapped the weak arm with floral wire and coated it
with a thick film of epoxy. Hopefully that will last longer than me

There is not enough clearance on the Jetta latch on the back side to coat it
properly with epoxy. I did find out that the replacement part from a 2002
would work on our 2000. Amazingly it was about $25 less money for the 2002
part which included a new actuator. The 2000 did not. Still have the old one
on the bench and my tinker with it sometime to see if there would be a good
way to repair/reinforce the plastic arm.

Ray in Texas

On Oct 20, 10:06*pm, "lobo" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Oct 14, 12:46 pm, "lobo" > wrote:
>
>
>
> > > wrote in message
>
> ...
> > On Oct 14, 11:09 am, "lobo" > wrote:
>
> > > It is the trunk lid. Being a big guy, I was trying to avoid having to
> > > drop
> > > the back seats and crawl inside. Will have to do so though to see if
> > > there
> > > is a emergency release.
>
> > When you do, bring your flashlights and a Philips screwdriver.
> > Apparently there is a plastic cover and then a thin lever to pull that
> > will release the trunk. I called my mechanic who is something of a
> > specialist in these things. He was glad to help.
>
> > Peter Wieck
> > Melrose Park, PA
>
> > Thanks a bunch for making the call Peter.
> > I crawled my big butt in there and removed about 15 screws to remove the
> > panel. Found a broken plastic cam arm that pops the trunk latch. Why they
> > would make something like that out of plastic, is beyond me. Like your
> > mechanic said, I was able to pop the trunk by pulling the lever making it
> > a
> > lot better to work on from the outside. Off to the dealer to get a
> > replacement as they have three in stock.
>
> > Ray in Texas
>
> I am glad you survived the experience with your sense of humor intact!
>
> Just a random thought, if you have the clearances - from the old one,
> you will be able to determine the weak-spot. It might be possible to
> reinforce that spot on the new one with epoxy and maybe a piece of
> stiff wire or brass or steel stock. I have done such with H or U-
> shaped material by filling in the appropriate section and laying a bit
> of metal in the fill. I have also repaired round-stock with a piece of
> brass tubing and epoxy.
>
> Again, a random thought.
>
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
>
> Thanks Peter. You have to have some humor sometimes when working on
> automobiles. Otherwise they will get you down for sure.
> I thought about reinforcing it prior to replacing with the new unit. Did
> that fix with the a/c blend actuator door on my Mark VIII. Again weak
> plastic part. Problem with that repair was the partial removal of the dash.
> Real pain in the rear. Wrapped the weak arm with floral wire and coated it
> with a thick film of epoxy. Hopefully that will last longer than me
>
> There is not enough clearance on the Jetta latch on the back side to coat it
> properly with epoxy. I did find out that the replacement part from a 2002
> would work on our 2000. Amazingly it was about $25 less money for the 2002
> part which included a new actuator. The 2000 did not. Still have the old one
> on the bench and my tinker with it sometime to see if there would be a good
> way to repair/reinforce the plastic arm.
>
> Ray in Texas

Ray,

I have a similar problem on my 2001 Jetta. The plastic arm is broken
and I have been unsuccessful trying to glue it back on. What exactly
was the part that you purchased from the dealer, and how much did it
cost?

Thanks,

Blair
Austin, TX