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Rotor removal



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 13th 05, 06:07 PM
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Default Rotor removal

How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take some
gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry for.
Thanks


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  #2  
Old April 13th 05, 06:21 PM
Bob G.
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On Wed, 13 Apr 2005 17:07:56 GMT, > wrote:

>How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take some
>gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry for.
>Thanks
>

They were installed with rivets at the factory....and they must be
drilled out before the rotor can be removed.... Unusual that a 78 has
never had the rotors removed...BUT not unheard of...for sure...if they
were removed then go from gentle to... a good wack to wacking the
hell on them.....

Bob Griffiths


  #3  
Old April 13th 05, 06:41 PM
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Hi Bob,

Wow! Thanks for the quick response!
I should have been more specific but I'm sure your information is correct
anyway.

I am trying to remiove the rear rotors to get to the emergency brake parts.
I think they are dragging (cables are loose) and causing overheating and
therefore I get rear lockup after a few miles of driving. After things cool
down the car rolls easily by hand.

I can see someone has tried to drill out what appears to be large rivits or
screws but without success. Some are drilled off-center and deeper than
others. They are big rivits if that is what they are, probably 3/8". Does
this sound right?

Thanks again and I will let you know how I make out.
> wrote in message
news:Mlc7e.14884$hB6.1104@trnddc06...
> How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take
> some gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry for.
> Thanks
>



  #5  
Old April 13th 05, 09:31 PM
Barking Rats
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Default

In article <BRc7e.10790$Zn3.9902@trnddc02>, >
wrote:

> I can see someone has tried to drill out what appears to be large rivits or
> screws but without success. Some are drilled off-center and deeper than
> others. They are big rivits if that is what they are, probably 3/8". Does
> this sound right?


I would have guesstimated more like 1/2" but yes, those are the rivets
Bob G. was talking about - there are 5 of them. Just a tip: Some folks
recommend marking the orientation of the rotor on the axle so that it is
replaced over the studs in the same position as it was assembled at the
factory. I don't believe Chevy specifies this step in the repair manual
for that era, but it certainly would not hurt to do it anyway.

Here's waving to ya - \||||

Owen
___

'67BB & '72BB
___

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
  #6  
Old April 13th 05, 09:37 PM
RicSeyler
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Real good point!!

Barking Rats wrote:

>In article <BRc7e.10790$Zn3.9902@trnddc02>, >
>wrote:
>
>
>
>>I can see someone has tried to drill out what appears to be large rivits or
>>screws but without success. Some are drilled off-center and deeper than
>>others. They are big rivits if that is what they are, probably 3/8". Does
>>this sound right?
>>
>>

>
>I would have guesstimated more like 1/2" but yes, those are the rivets
>Bob G. was talking about - there are 5 of them. Just a tip: Some folks
>recommend marking the orientation of the rotor on the axle so that it is
>replaced over the studs in the same position as it was assembled at the
>factory. I don't believe Chevy specifies this step in the repair manual
>for that era, but it certainly would not hurt to do it anyway.
>
>Here's waving to ya - \||||
>
>Owen
>___
>
>'67BB & '72BB
>___
>
>"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
> -- Ann Hayman Zwinger
>
>


--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove -SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson


  #8  
Old April 14th 05, 01:57 AM
WayneC
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I don't know a way to test it directly (although there may be a way),
nor can I remember how that problem was diagnosed when I had it about 15
years ago (I may have just had the booster rebuilt on blind faith at the
time).

Here's the way I understand the booster...

The booster stores vaccuum on both sides of it's large internal
diaphragm as you drive... the one-way external check valve (that the
large vaccuum hose connects to) keeps vaccuum in the booster; there is
another, internal, valve that relieves vaccuum (allows air to enter) on
the pedal side of the booster when the pedal is pushed, thus using
ambient air pressure to assist you with the pedal effort. I'm not
certain, but there is probably another internal check valve that keeps
ambient air pressure from reaching the master cylinder side of the
diaphragm from the pedal side. If one of those internal valves
fails/sticks, or if air somehow leaks in only on the pedal side of the
booster diaphragm, or if the vaccuum can't easily reach the pedal side
of the diaphragm, the pedal stays very hard near the top of it's travel
and the brakes drag until the pressure equalizes... so a pedal that
seems to get significantly harder (very little movement needed to feel a
hard pedal) after you drive awhile migh be a clue. The brakes stay
applied for awhile after you stop because the booster vaccuum bleeds off
very slowly after the engine is stopped. Since the rear brakes are
designed to apply first, they are the ones that drag and heat up.
Possibly if the check valve on the outside of the booster were removed
from the booster while the car is running and is experiencing the
problem, the car will then roll easily (but I'm not sure that's a
prudent thing to try). If the problem is the emergency brake, I would
think that while you are having the problem, the emergency brake handle
may manually apply with a lot less effort through it's travel than it
normally would, ie, it will feel loose until it gets to the very end of
it's travel.

wrote:
> Any suggestion son how to tell if it is the power booster?
>
>
> "WayneC" > wrote in message
> ...
>
wrote:
>>
>>>Hi Bob,
>>>
>>>Wow! Thanks for the quick response!
>>>I should have been more specific but I'm sure your information is correct
>>>anyway.
>>>
>>>I am trying to remiove the rear rotors to get to the emergency brake
>>>parts. I think they are dragging (cables are loose) and causing
>>>overheating and therefore I get rear lockup after a few miles of driving.
>>>After things cool down the car rolls easily by hand.
>>>
>>>I can see someone has tried to drill out what appears to be large rivits
>>>or screws but without success. Some are drilled off-center and deeper
>>>than others. They are big rivits if that is what they are, probably
>>>3/8". Does this sound right?
>>>
>>>Thanks again and I will let you know how I make out.
> wrote in message
>>>news:Mlc7e.14884$hB6.1104@trnddc06...
>>>
>>>
>>>>How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take
>>>>some gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry
>>>>for. Thanks
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

>>BTW, the symptoms you are experiencing can also be caused by a bad power
>>brake booster.

>
>
>

  #9  
Old April 14th 05, 03:14 AM
BDragon
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Posts: n/a
Default


"WayneC" > wrote in message
...
> I don't know a way to test it directly (although there may be a way),
> nor can I remember how that problem was diagnosed when I had it about 15
> years ago (I may have just had the booster rebuilt on blind faith at the
> time).
>
> Here's the way I understand the booster...
>
> The booster stores vaccuum on both sides of it's large internal
> diaphragm as you drive... the one-way external check valve (that the
> large vaccuum hose connects to) keeps vaccuum in the booster; there is
> another, internal, valve that relieves vaccuum (allows air to enter) on
> the pedal side of the booster when the pedal is pushed, thus using
> ambient air pressure to assist you with the pedal effort. I'm not
> certain, but there is probably another internal check valve that keeps
> ambient air pressure from reaching the master cylinder side of the
> diaphragm from the pedal side. If one of those internal valves
> fails/sticks, or if air somehow leaks in only on the pedal side of the
> booster diaphragm, or if the vaccuum can't easily reach the pedal side
> of the diaphragm, the pedal stays very hard near the top of it's travel
> and the brakes drag until the pressure equalizes... so a pedal that
> seems to get significantly harder (very little movement needed to feel a
> hard pedal) after you drive awhile migh be a clue. The brakes stay
> applied for awhile after you stop because the booster vaccuum bleeds off
> very slowly after the engine is stopped. Since the rear brakes are
> designed to apply first, they are the ones that drag and heat up.
> Possibly if the check valve on the outside of the booster were removed
> from the booster while the car is running and is experiencing the
> problem, the car will then roll easily (but I'm not sure that's a
> prudent thing to try). If the problem is the emergency brake, I would
> think that while you are having the problem, the emergency brake handle
> may manually apply with a lot less effort through it's travel than it
> normally would, ie, it will feel loose until it gets to the very end of
> it's travel.
>
> wrote:
> > Any suggestion son how to tell if it is the power booster?
> >
> >
> > "WayneC" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> wrote:
> >>
> >>>Hi Bob,
> >>>
> >>>Wow! Thanks for the quick response!
> >>>I should have been more specific but I'm sure your information is

correct
> >>>anyway.
> >>>
> >>>I am trying to remiove the rear rotors to get to the emergency brake
> >>>parts. I think they are dragging (cables are loose) and causing
> >>>overheating and therefore I get rear lockup after a few miles of

driving.
> >>>After things cool down the car rolls easily by hand.
> >>>
> >>>I can see someone has tried to drill out what appears to be large

rivits
> >>>or screws but without success. Some are drilled off-center and deeper
> >>>than others. They are big rivits if that is what they are, probably
> >>>3/8". Does this sound right?
> >>>
> >>>Thanks again and I will let you know how I make out.
> > wrote in message
> >>>news:Mlc7e.14884$hB6.1104@trnddc06...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take
> >>>>some gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry
> >>>>for. Thanks
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>BTW, the symptoms you are experiencing can also be caused by a bad power
> >>brake booster.

> >
> >
> >

Pump the pedal a couple of times and hold. If the pedal goes slowly down,
the booster should be okay.

I have a 77 which had never had the rotors removed. I also had no emergency
brake. When the rotors came off, the emergency brake shoes were broken in
half and all the parts and springs were powder. Put new gear in, and like a
putz, I forgot to adjust the emergency brake. Now I'm trying to find out if
that can be done without removing the rotors again.


  #10  
Old April 14th 05, 06:09 AM
Tom in Missouri
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Posts: n/a
Default

This is not an opinion, this is fact. The factory machining process was
done with the hub or spindle riveted to the rotor. As such, this simplified
manufacturing as any flaws in the hub surface and the inner drum of the
rotor surface could be eliminated by the final machining of the rotor
surface.

If you put the rotor on any position but the original, or on an different
hub or spindle, you can introduce run out that exceeds the specs and which
"pumps" the caliper pistons. Pumping the pistons introduces air into the
brake fluid, resulting in a spongy pedal and eventual leaks.


"RicSeyler" > wrote in message
. ..
> Real good point!!
>
> Barking Rats wrote:
>
> >In article <BRc7e.10790$Zn3.9902@trnddc02>, >
> >wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>I can see someone has tried to drill out what appears to be large rivits

or
> >>screws but without success. Some are drilled off-center and deeper than
> >>others. They are big rivits if that is what they are, probably 3/8".

Does
> >>this sound right?
> >>
> >>

> >
> >I would have guesstimated more like 1/2" but yes, those are the rivets
> >Bob G. was talking about - there are 5 of them. Just a tip: Some folks
> >recommend marking the orientation of the rotor on the axle so that it is
> >replaced over the studs in the same position as it was assembled at the
> >factory. I don't believe Chevy specifies this step in the repair manual
> >for that era, but it certainly would not hurt to do it anyway.
> >
> >Here's waving to ya - \||||
> >
> >Owen
> >___
> >
> >'67BB & '72BB
> >___
> >
> >"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
> > -- Ann Hayman Zwinger
> >
> >

>
> --
> Ric Seyler
> Online Racing: RicSeyler
> GPL Handicap 6.35
>
>
http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
> remove -SPAM- from email address
> --------------------------------------
> "Homer no function beer well without."
> - H.J. Simpson
>
>



 




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