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Rotor removal



 
 
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  #11  
Old April 14th 05, 06:29 AM
Barking Rats
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In article >,
"BDragon" > wrote:

> I forgot to adjust the emergency brake. Now I'm trying to find out if
> that can be done without removing the rotors again.


Absolutely. There's a hole in the hub of the rotor between one pair of
studs through which you can see the star-wheel - that is as long as the
rotor was put back on the axle correctly so the holes line up. A
screwdriver is used to lever the cogs on the star-wheel to
tighten/loosen.

To resogngb: Back to the rotor rivets - you don't have to replace them
when everything goes back together. The wheel lug nuts, of course, will
hold the rotor securely to the hub.

Here's waving to ya - \||||

Owen
___

'67BB & '72BB
___

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
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  #12  
Old April 14th 05, 05:09 PM
W. Moore
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A couple of years ago a post at this site suggested that old brake flex
hoses tend to swell inside which traps pressurized brake fluid causing a
brake to drag. It made sense and I thought I would try and replace the flex
line on my right rear wheel to eliminate the squeaking/dragging problem
before tearing all else apart. Bingo. New flex line and the problem was
solved. The flex line was about $14 at a local parts house.
> wrote in message
news:Mlc7e.14884$hB6.1104@trnddc06...
> How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take

some
> gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry for.
> Thanks
>
>



  #13  
Old April 15th 05, 12:44 AM
Tom
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Well, I got the rivets drilled. It was easier than I thought it would be.
I found the emergency brake shoes OK but everything else in this area is
pretty much toast, either broke or rusted beyond repair. They were dragging
a little and were rusted that way so this may be the problem. However, I am
changing the flex hoses as well. I can blow through them both directions
without any obvious obstructions. I will pick up the new ones in the
morning, $19.00 each for a 10" hose. Wow! If this doesn't solve the
problem I guess it will have to be the power booster. This is the only
thing in the system that isn't new!

I don't think it is the problem because I can use the brakes while sitting
still for a long time and nothing locks up. It only happens when I drive a
few miles.

Will let you all know what happens. You have been a great help in dealing
with this problem. Thanks, Tom


> wrote in message
news:Mlc7e.14884$hB6.1104@trnddc06...
> How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take
> some gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry for.
> Thanks
>




  #14  
Old April 15th 05, 11:55 PM
TomT
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OK, I got it all back together but I have a question that may be obvious to
some of you. This is the first time I've been into the brakes on an old
vette. What keeps the pads from contacting the rotors all the time. The
tension of the boots and/or spring inside the boots, if there is one, seems
to apply a little pressure to the pads even before fluid is added. Could
this cause the heat buildup problem? Seems likely to me but I don't know.
Is there a spring , maybe, on the the retainer pin that is supposed to
spread the pads apart? If so, I don't have any.

I know I should get a manul and will but right now I just want to get it
together so I can drive it while the weather is nice.

Thanks,
Tom
"Tom" > wrote in message
newsfD7e.13710$jd6.12111@trnddc07...
> Well, I got the rivets drilled. It was easier than I thought it would be.
> I found the emergency brake shoes OK but everything else in this area is
> pretty much toast, either broke or rusted beyond repair. They were
> dragging
> a little and were rusted that way so this may be the problem. However, I
> am
> changing the flex hoses as well. I can blow through them both directions
> without any obvious obstructions. I will pick up the new ones in the
> morning, $19.00 each for a 10" hose. Wow! If this doesn't solve the
> problem I guess it will have to be the power booster. This is the only
> thing in the system that isn't new!
>
> I don't think it is the problem because I can use the brakes while sitting
> still for a long time and nothing locks up. It only happens when I drive
> a
> few miles.
>
> Will let you all know what happens. You have been a great help in dealing
> with this problem. Thanks, Tom
>
>
> > wrote in message
> news:Mlc7e.14884$hB6.1104@trnddc06...
>> How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take
>> some gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry
>> for.
>> Thanks
>>

>
>
>



  #15  
Old April 16th 05, 05:54 AM
Barking Rats
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In article <1EX7e.13915$jd6.532@trnddc07>, "TomT" >
wrote:

> OK, I got it all back together but I have a question that may be obvious to
> some of you. This is the first time I've been into the brakes on an old
> vette. What keeps the pads from contacting the rotors all the time. The
> tension of the boots and/or spring inside the boots, if there is one, seems
> to apply a little pressure to the pads even before fluid is added. Could
> this cause the heat buildup problem? Seems likely to me but I don't know.
> Is there a spring , maybe, on the the retainer pin that is supposed to
> spread the pads apart? If so, I don't have any.
>
> I know I should get a manul and will but right now I just want to get it
> together so I can drive it while the weather is nice.


The only springs on the calipers are light weight springs behind the
pistons which very, very gently push the pistons to the pads which, of
course, contact the rotor very, very lightly. They are only creating
minimal friction so shouldn't be the source of your heat problems -
though don't touch the rotors after a drive of any length. DAMHIKT.

There is nothing pushing the pads away from the rotor - if the pads are
creating excess friction after your parking brake rebuild and hose
replacement, then you could have a piston that's cockeyed in the bore.
You might have a problem in the tubing with a crimped area obstructing
return pressure or something wrong with the pressure regulator just down
fluid from the master cylinder. When you bleed the brakes you might
notice differences in flow between the four corners to detect fluid flow
problems.

Here's waving to ya - \||||

Owen
___

'67BB & '72BB
___

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
  #16  
Old April 29th 05, 03:44 AM
TomT
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Well, I got the rotors off, thanks to you help. Thank you all. I have a
book now, too. I removed the emergency brake parts temporarily until I get
new.

The problem (with the brakes locking up) ended up being not enough clearance
between the face of the piston in the master cylinder and the face of the
"piston" that holds the actuating rod in the booster. I made a 3/32" shim
to space the booster and master cylinder apart a little and now the brakes
release. I think the fluid was unable to return to the master cylinder
after the peddle was released and that caused the brakes to stay on.

NOW! I know they are properly blead but they (the rears) only work after
two or three pumps. I actually used a vacuum device attached to the
bleeder, starting with the farthest from the master cylinder, kept the
reservoir full and blead each point until the fluid ran without bubbles.

What have I missed now?

Have I introduced another problem?
> wrote in message
news:Mlc7e.14884$hB6.1104@trnddc06...
> How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take
> some gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry for.
> Thanks
>



  #17  
Old April 29th 05, 11:29 PM
BDragon
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Posts: n/a
Default


"TomT" > wrote in message news:Xbhce.10194$Nc.9881@trnddc05...
> Well, I got the rotors off, thanks to you help. Thank you all. I have a
> book now, too. I removed the emergency brake parts temporarily until I

get
> new.
>
> The problem (with the brakes locking up) ended up being not enough

clearance
> between the face of the piston in the master cylinder and the face of the
> "piston" that holds the actuating rod in the booster. I made a 3/32" shim
> to space the booster and master cylinder apart a little and now the brakes
> release. I think the fluid was unable to return to the master cylinder
> after the peddle was released and that caused the brakes to stay on.
>
> NOW! I know they are properly blead but they (the rears) only work after
> two or three pumps. I actually used a vacuum device attached to the
> bleeder, starting with the farthest from the master cylinder, kept the
> reservoir full and blead each point until the fluid ran without bubbles.
>
> What have I missed now?
>
> Have I introduced another problem?
> > wrote in message
> news:Mlc7e.14884$hB6.1104@trnddc06...
> > How do I get the rear rotors off my 1978 'vette?! I know it will take
> > some gentle hammering but I don't want to miss something I'm be sorry

for.
> > Thanks
> >

>

Since you were messing with the master cylinder, you might have to bench
bleed it to get everything to work again. Certainly, there's not much doubt
that you still have air in he lines somewhere. Is the proportioner valve
working right?


  #18  
Old May 1st 05, 07:09 PM
Ron in NY-67 427/435hp
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"TomT" > wrote:

NOW! I know they are properly blead but they (the rears) only work after
>two or three pumps. >
>What have I missed now?

================================================== ==============
The rear calipers have 2 bleeders each. Did you bleed both of them on each side
???
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.
  #19  
Old May 1st 05, 07:10 PM
Ron in NY-67 427/435hp
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Posts: n/a
Default

"TomT" > wrote:

NOW! I know they are properly blead but they (the rears) only work after
>two or three pumps. >
>What have I missed now?

================================================== ==============
The rear calipers have 2 bleeders each. Did you bleed both of them on each side
???
================================================== ======
Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.
 




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