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#1
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and the
starter has been replaced. When I turn the key to start, there has been a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is to allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker this morning and it is now starting. How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence? I just check the codes and got one that may mean something 40-BCM B0432H and 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H What does 40-BCM BO432H mean??? |
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#2
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
On 4/20/2012 7:40 AM, aRKay wrote:
> > How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence? > > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something > > 40-BCM B0432H > > and > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H > > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean??? If you'll get a straight answer anywhere, it will likely be here but... AFAIK, the "H" suffix on your code indicates that the trouble code shown is historic, i.e. occurred in the past but is not currently at issue. Not sure how long ago the code was thrown (history is supposedly retained for 40-50 ignition cycles) so just jot it down (so you can share it with the tech if necessary to proceed further) and check again in a few days or after the next starting problem and see what happens. Is it back? 40-BCM refers to the Body Control Module Next time it happens, run through the codes immediately and see if any are shown as current, i.e. have a "C" suffix. That will be a good starting point |
#3
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
On 4/20/2012 7:40 AM, aRKay wrote:
> I just check the codes and got one that may mean something > > 40-BCM B0432H > > and > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H > > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean??? I doubt that B0432 is your culprit but... B0432 refers to a problem/code thrown by the rear window defogger relay B0438, it seems, is related to the air conditioning as you might expect from its category assignment. Not sure on the V1000 other than it's historic |
#4
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
"aRKay" > wrote in message ... >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and the > starter has been replaced. > Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does it have and how good are the cold cranking amps? > >When I turn the key to start, there has been > a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is > to > allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps > to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few > seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped > back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a > computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker > this morning and it is now starting. > > How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence? > Unhook the battery for more than just a few seconds. Not sure how much that would help as it just allows the computer to reset running parameters, like fuel trim etc. > > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something > > 40-BCM B0432H > B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit > > and > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H > B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open > If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means ECU Malfunction. > > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean??? > You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken, like a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground. |
#5
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
In article >,
"Dad" > wrote: > "aRKay" > wrote in message > ... > >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and the > > starter has been replaced. > > > Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does it > have and how good are the cold cranking amps? I carried the less than 1 year old battery that is still under a Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for 555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed all tests. > > > >When I turn the key to start, there has been > > a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is > > to > > allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps > > to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few > > seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped > > back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a > > computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker > > this morning and it is now starting. > > > > How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence? > > > Unhook the battery for more than just a few seconds. Not sure how much > that would help as it just allows the computer to reset running > parameters, like fuel trim etc. The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting perfect. My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today Does the BCM module control the starting sequence or is it controlled by the ECM module? > > > > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something > > > > 40-BCM B0432H > > > B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit > > > > and > > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H > > > B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open > > > If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means > ECU Malfunction. > > > > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean??? > > > You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not > mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken, like > a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground. I am beginning to suspect a battery cable to the starter that will pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find. |
#6
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
"aRKay" > wrote in message ... > In article >, > "Dad" > wrote: > >> "aRKay" > wrote in message >> ... >> >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and >> >the >> > starter has been replaced. >> > >> Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does >> it >> have and how good are the cold cranking amps? > > I carried the less than 1 year old battery that is still under a > Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They > checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for > 555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed > all tests. > Needs to be tested under load. >> > >> >When I turn the key to start, there has been >> > a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is >> > to >> > allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking >> > amps >> > to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a >> > few >> > seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) >> > dropped >> > back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect >> > a >> > computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the >> > wrecker >> > this morning and it is now starting. >> > >> > How do you reset the computer that controls the starting >> > sequence? >> > >> Unhook the battery for more than just a few seconds. Not sure how >> much >> that would help as it just allows the computer to reset running >> parameters, like fuel trim etc. > > The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last > night > and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is > starting > perfect. > > My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have > forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today > > Does the BCM module control the starting sequence or is it > controlled > by the ECM module? > BCM = Body Control module ECM = Engine control module > >> > >> > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something >> > >> > 40-BCM B0432H >> > >> B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit >> > >> > and >> > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H >> > >> B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open >> > >> If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means >> ECU Malfunction. >> > >> > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean??? >> > >> You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not >> mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken, >> like >> a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground. > > I am beginning to suspect a battery cable to the starter that will > pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find. > Why was the starter replaced and who changed it? Most likely your starter cable is not bad, I do suspect a bad connection somewhere. > I worked with a fellow that was replacing his starter every few months. That many starters can't be bad so a new mechanic looked at it and found the timing trigger was mislocated. The starter was trying to start the engine under a very high load. You need a decision tree and someone that knows how to repair your car. The more you mess with it the more connections and wires that can be poorly connected. It is also a good idea to clean and reseal all connectors you work with and the grounds should be cleaned when you start popping codes. Do you have any dielectric grease or cleaner? I like Boeshield T-9 as a cleaner/protectorate but you still need the dielectric grease for a good seal. |
#7
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
On 04/20/2012 01:20 PM, aRKay wrote:
> The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night > and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting > perfect. > > My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have > forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today Was the connection good. Did you clean the contact points real good between the battery and the cable? |
#8
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
In article >,
gn643202 > wrote: > On 04/20/2012 01:20 PM, aRKay wrote: > > The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night > > and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting > > perfect. > > > > My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have > > forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today > > Was the connection good. Did you clean the contact points real > good between the battery and the cable? The battery has side terminals and it never entered my mine to clean the cables before connecting. There may be a bad connection somewhere but I don't thing it is at the connection to the side terminals of the battery. |
#9
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
In article >,
"Dad" > wrote: > "aRKay" > wrote in message > ... > > In article >, > > "Dad" > wrote: > > > >> "aRKay" > wrote in message > >> ... > >> >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and > >> >the > >> > starter has been replaced. > >> > > >> Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does > >> it > >> have and how good are the cold cranking amps? > > > > I carried the less than 1 year old battery that is still under a > > Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They > > checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for > > 555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed > > all tests. > > > Needs to be tested under load. Since it now starts, I plan to take to someone that has a load tester > >> > > >> >When I turn the key to start, there has been > >> > a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is > >> > to > >> > allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking > >> > amps > >> > to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a > >> > few > >> > seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) > >> > dropped > >> > back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect > >> > a > >> > computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the > >> > wrecker > >> > this morning and it is now starting. > >> > > >> > How do you reset the computer that controls the starting > >> > sequence? > >> > > >> Unhook the battery for more than just a few seconds. Not sure how > >> much > >> that would help as it just allows the computer to reset running > >> parameters, like fuel trim etc. > > > > The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last > > night > > and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is > > starting > > perfect. > > > > My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have > > forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today > > > > Does the BCM module control the starting sequence or is it > > controlled > > by the ECM module? > > > BCM = Body Control module > ECM = Engine control module Which one handles the starting sequence? I read the description of both and it is not very clear which one controls the starting sequence > > > >> > > >> > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something > >> > > >> > 40-BCM B0432H > >> > > >> B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit > >> > > >> > and > >> > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H > >> > > >> B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open > >> > > >> If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means > >> ECU Malfunction. > >> > > >> > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean??? > >> > > >> You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not > >> mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken, > >> like > >> a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground. > > > > I am beginning to suspect a battery cable to the starter that will > > pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find. > > > Why was the starter replaced and who changed it? Most likely your > starter cable is not bad, I do suspect a bad connection somewhere. It failed the same way about four months ago and the tech that checked it said the tests shows the starter was bad. He got the old starter to crank by tapping on it with screw driver. > > > I worked with a fellow that was replacing his starter every few > months. That many starters can't be bad so a new mechanic looked at it > and found the timing trigger was mislocated. The starter was trying to > start the engine under a very high load. You need a decision tree and > someone that knows how to repair your car. Sort of like finding a good Doctor. >The more you mess with it > the more connections and wires that can be poorly connected. It is > also a good idea to clean and reseal all connectors you work with and > the grounds should be cleaned when you start popping codes. Do you > have any dielectric grease or cleaner? No and I cannot work on this part of the car from home. Can't get under it without having a lift >I like Boeshield T-9 as a > cleaner/protectorate but you still need the dielectric grease for a > good seal. |
#10
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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
In article >,
aRKay > wrote: > In article >, > gn643202 > wrote: > > > On 04/20/2012 01:20 PM, aRKay wrote: > > > The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night > > > and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting > > > perfect. > > > > > > My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have > > > forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today > > > > Was the connection good. Did you clean the contact points real > > good between the battery and the cable? Very interesting and Jerry's comment got me to thinking. If you recall from my first posting I have had a delay for some time from when I put the key to START until the the starter does its thing. I have assumed this 3 to 5 second delay is normal for one of the computers to run the starting sequence to check everything before commanding the starter to do its thing. I am still not clear if the BCM controls the starting sequence. Today the C5 is starting better than ever and there is NO delay in the starting sequence. The starter is working perfect. My revised (wishful thinking) is two things may have fixed the starting issue. One is the Dad comment that removing the battery forces the computer to reset. I had the battery out of the car for at least an hour taking back to Wallmart for test. The other item is making sure the negative terminal is connected good to the battery. There is little room to get a wrench on the side terminal and something tells me the installer at Wallmart last year may not have made a good connection. When I removed it I was surprised at how easy it was to remove the side terminals. I know my connection was good because I used a small special side terminal wrench that I keep in the car at all times. I picked it up at Wallmart when I purchase the battery in Aug 2011. A half-assed negative battery terminal connection could cause or contribute to the starting issues. Stay tuned to see if the fix really works. It is working perfect today. |
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