Golf mk2 stalling

My mk2 1.8 has been stalling. Usually it's when I'm in town and have
to stop quickly. I put in the clutch and the revs drop to zero. It
always starts right back up. It doesn't happen all the time. Every
once and awhile the revs drop to zero then it bounces up to 2500, then
normal idle. It's a 90 with about 155000 miles. Otherwise runs
strong and has a fairly recent timing belt, plugs, cap, etc. Can
anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!

On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:31:12 -0800 (PST), B Briggs > wrote:

>My mk2 1.8 has been stalling. Usually it's when I'm in town and have
>to stop quickly. I put in the clutch and the revs drop to zero. It
>always starts right back up. It doesn't happen all the time. Every
>once and awhile the revs drop to zero then it bounces up to 2500, then
>normal idle. It's a 90 with about 155000 miles. Otherwise runs
>strong and has a fairly recent timing belt, plugs, cap, etc. Can
>anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!


Inspect each vacuum line and their connectors for signs of cracks/holes.
Inspect the boot from the air filter box to the intake manifold for the same.
enJoy enJoy

AND inspect the ground wires for the fuel injection that bolts to the intake
manifold or cylinder head. Usually they break due to vibration.

A dirty Air Regulaor Valve (if the proper name) might do it too?


> wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:31:12 -0800 (PST), B Briggs >
> wrote:
>
>>My mk2 1.8 has been stalling. Usually it's when I'm in town and have
>>to stop quickly. I put in the clutch and the revs drop to zero. It
>>always starts right back up. It doesn't happen all the time. Every
>>once and awhile the revs drop to zero then it bounces up to 2500, then
>>normal idle. It's a 90 with about 155000 miles. Otherwise runs
>>strong and has a fairly recent timing belt, plugs, cap, etc. Can
>>anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
>
>
> Inspect each vacuum line and their connectors for signs of cracks/holes.
> Inspect the boot from the air filter box to the intake manifold for the
> same.
> enJoy enJoy
>



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

"dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
> wrote:
>> On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:31:12 -0800 (PST), B Briggs >
>> wrote:

>>>My mk2 1.8 has been stalling. Usually it's when I'm in town and
>>>have to stop quickly. I put in the clutch and the revs drop to
>>>zero. It always starts right back up. It doesn't happen all the
>>>time. Every once and awhile the revs drop to zero then it
>>>bounces up to 2500, then normal idle. It's a 90 with about
>>>155000 miles. Otherwise runs strong and has a fairly recent
>>>timing belt, plugs, cap, etc. Can anyone point me in the right
>>>direction?

>> Inspect each vacuum line and their connectors for signs of cracks/holes.

And wear; as vibration makes some rub through the wall in the space
of about 10 years of normal driving. Check the main vacuum tap on
the end of the manifold and the plastic fittings (including check
valve) for the brake servo and reservoir. One non-obvious place for
the line to rub through is the hard line as it passes next to the
battery on the way to the vacuum reservoir underneath the battery,
behind the headlight.

>> Inspect the boot from the air filter box to the intake manifold
>> for the same.

>AND inspect the ground wires for the fuel injection that bolts to
>the intake manifold or cylinder head. Usually they break due to
>vibration.

>A dirty Air Regulaor Valve (if the proper name) might do it too?

Idle stabilizer valve.

Also make sure that the PCV valve grommet onto the cylinder head
isn't leaking. A quick (albeit a little unreliable) check is to
press down on the PCV valve while the engine idles and see if the
idle fluctuates. If it does; there's a leak. If it doesn't, there
still might be a leak -- hence the "unreliable" test comment but at
least you don't have to unscrew anything to find one that fails the
simple test.

Similarly; check the plastic top part of the dipstick tube by
removing the dipstick at idle and then replacing it. If idle DOESN'T
"wobble" when you do that, you should replace the pink/orange
plastic bit that clips onto the top of the metal tube. Check the
seal on the dipstick itself while you're at it.
--
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On Feb 5, 9:31*am, B Briggs > wrote:
> My mk2 1.8 has been stalling. *Usually it's when I'm in town and have
> to stop quickly. *

Hi,
Hey, I've got the same model year. In addition to all the things to
check mentioned so far, check out:
- connections on the distributor. I had infrequent loss in power
especially when under load starting out or climbing a hill. Pulling
out and re-seating the connectors on the distributor terminals seemed
to solve the problem. Many months later, no near stalling nor
stumbling.
- How are your fuel pumps? If the transfer pump in your fuel tank is
not working, your main pump may not generate enough pressure when your
revs drop (alternator output drops) to keep your engine going.
- How is your front engine mount? Any freeplay if you rev the engine?
A worn mount may allow the engine to move stressing vacuum lines and
air bellows. This is related to vacuum and air leaks others have
mentioned. Best to fix the leaks too.
- I infrequently change all the fabric wrapped rubber hoses linking
the vacuum lines just to eliminate any vacuum issues. A couple feet of
the tubing is all you need to cut 3-4" pieces to replace the existing
hose.

Let us know what works for you. Good luck.