Grand Wagoneer Fan Blade/Viscous Fan

I'd appreciate help in diagnosing the actual parts needing replacement
with the following symptoms:

A chattering noise led me to note that the cooling fan blades were
striking the fan shroud. Closer inspection revealed that the fan was
wobbling, and even further inspection showed that the viscous fan
clutch is wobbling on the shaft.

Now, I do not know if this means that a water pump replacement is
required, or whether the viscous fan can be removed from the shaft at
the end nearest the radiator. If it can,. I can't see how to release
the fan clutch from the shaft without removing the water pump.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I know that this has been covered in part in other posts, but I am
hopeful of getting the usual spot-on advice about this specific set of
circumstances.

Ask your group http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/FSJ-List/

Yes that fan clutch easily, or it should be easily, unbolts from the
waterpump. You might have to move the fan shroud out of the way.
Not sure if I disposed of my low mileage fan clutch from my '82 Wag 360 that
I bought just before I retired my Wag.
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1


" > wrote in message
...
> I'd appreciate help in diagnosing the actual parts needing replacement
> with the following symptoms:
>
> A chattering noise led me to note that the cooling fan blades were
> striking the fan shroud. Closer inspection revealed that the fan was
> wobbling, and even further inspection showed that the viscous fan
> clutch is wobbling on the shaft.
>
> Now, I do not know if this means that a water pump replacement is
> required, or whether the viscous fan can be removed from the shaft at
> the end nearest the radiator. If it can,. I can't see how to release
> the fan clutch from the shaft without removing the water pump.
>
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> I know that this has been covered in part in other posts, but I am
> hopeful of getting the usual spot-on advice about this specific set of
> circumstances.
>

On Jan 27, 2:05*pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" >
wrote:
> Ask your grouphttp://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/FSJ-List/
>
> Yes that fan clutch easily, or it should be easily, unbolts from the
> waterpump. *You might have to move the fan shroud out of the way.
> Not sure if I disposed of my low mileage fan clutch from my '82 Wag 360 that
> I bought just before I retired my Wag.
> --
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> " > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
> > I'd appreciate help in diagnosing the actual parts needing replacement
> > with the following symptoms:
>
> > A chattering noise led me to note that the cooling fan blades were
> > striking the fan shroud. *Closer inspection revealed that the fan was
> > wobbling, and even further inspection showed that the viscous fan
> > clutch is wobbling on the shaft.
>
> > Now, I do not know if this means that a water pump replacement is
> > required, or whether the viscous fan can be removed from the shaft at
> > the end nearest the radiator. *If it can,. I can't see how to release
> > the fan clutch from the shaft without removing the water pump.
>
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> > I know that this has been covered in part in other posts, but I am
> > hopeful of getting the usual spot-on advice about this specific set of
> > circumstances.

OK, so if the fan clutch "wobbles" on the shaft, then simply replacing
the fan clutch and not the water pump is fix? I cannot as yet see how
the fan clutch separates from the fan, but will figure that one out by
inspecting the fan.

Many thanks!

On Jan 27, 2:05*pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" >
wrote:
> Ask your grouphttp://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/FSJ-List/
>
> Yes that fan clutch easily, or it should be easily, unbolts from the
> waterpump. *You might have to move the fan shroud out of the way.
> Not sure if I disposed of my low mileage fan clutch from my '82 Wag 360 that
> I bought just before I retired my Wag.
> --
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> " > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
> > I'd appreciate help in diagnosing the actual parts needing replacement
> > with the following symptoms:
>
> > A chattering noise led me to note that the cooling fan blades were
> > striking the fan shroud. *Closer inspection revealed that the fan was
> > wobbling, and even further inspection showed that the viscous fan
> > clutch is wobbling on the shaft.
>
> > Now, I do not know if this means that a water pump replacement is
> > required, or whether the viscous fan can be removed from the shaft at
> > the end nearest the radiator. *If it can,. I can't see how to release
> > the fan clutch from the shaft without removing the water pump.
>
> > Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> > I know that this has been covered in part in other posts, but I am
> > hopeful of getting the usual spot-on advice about this specific set of
> > circumstances.

Upon closer inspection, I was able to see how the clutch unbolted from
the water pump and did so, replaced the fan clutch, and, unable to
locate a new or used fan shroud on short notice, managed to MacGyver
the old one by re-installing it, and using old friend Gorilla Glue to
fuse the cracked fan housing together!

Jeep now purrs like a kitten, no ratting of the fan striking the fan
housing--fan steady as a rock.

I do have one question though: The new fan clutch milled attachment
plate, where it bolts to the water pump, is about 1/4 inch thicker
than the old one. As a consequence, the studs are not long enough to
come all the way through the lock nuts. I can see the stud a fraction
short of emerging from the hex nut, but have always been told that the
stud should protrude beyond the nut. They do have lock washers, and
they are on there very tight, but is this something to be concerned
about?

Thanks again!

randallbrink wrote:

> Upon closer inspection, I was able to see how the clutch unbolted from
> the water pump and did so, replaced the fan clutch, and, unable to
> locate a new or used fan shroud on short notice, managed to MacGyver
> the old one by re-installing it, and using old friend Gorilla Glue to
> fuse the cracked fan housing together!
>
> Jeep now purrs like a kitten, no ratting of the fan striking the fan
> housing--fan steady as a rock.
>
> I do have one question though: The new fan clutch milled attachment
> plate, where it bolts to the water pump, is about 1/4 inch thicker
> than the old one. As a consequence, the studs are not long enough to
> come all the way through the lock nuts. I can see the stud a fraction
> short of emerging from the hex nut, but have always been told that the
> stud should protrude beyond the nut. They do have lock washers, and
> they are on there very tight, but is this something to be concerned
> about?

Sometimes the studs thread on both ends and will work back. But I'm
at a loss as to why the plate would be 1/4" thicker. Considering this
is a vibration area and a loose fan can eat your radiator for lunch,
I'd at least put some blue threadlock on the nuts. Also watch the
radiator to fan clearance. You don't want fan flex to munch the rad.

--
DougW

On Jan 27, 5:35*pm, "DougW" >
wrote:
> randallbrink wrote:
> > Upon closer inspection, I was able to see how the clutch unbolted from
> > the water pump and did so, replaced the fan clutch, and, unable to
> > locate a new or used fan shroud on short notice, managed to MacGyver
> > the old one by re-installing it, and using old friend Gorilla Glue to
> > fuse the cracked fan housing together!
>
> > Jeep now purrs like a kitten, no ratting of the fan striking the fan
> > housing--fan steady as a rock.
>
> > I do have one question though: *The new fan clutch milled attachment
> > plate, where it bolts to the water pump, is about 1/4 inch thicker
> > than the old one. *As a consequence, the studs are not long enough to
> > come all the way through the lock nuts. *I can see the stud a fraction
> > short of emerging from the hex nut, but have always been told that the
> > stud should protrude beyond the nut. *They do have lock washers, and
> > they are on there very tight, but is this something to be concerned
> > about?
>
> Sometimes the studs thread on both ends and will work back. *But I'm
> at a loss as to why the plate would be 1/4" thicker. *Considering this
> is a vibration area and a loose fan can eat your radiator for lunch,
> I'd at least put some blue threadlock on the nuts. *Also watch the
> radiator to fan clearance. *You don't want fan flex to munch the rad.
>
> --
> DougW

I don't know why the mating plate is thicker. This one has the slots
instead of bore-through holes. I do worry about anything that is not
properly installed, and I have long believed that studs should go all
the way through the nut. These are close, but I believe you should
see two or three three threads protruding. I could take the fan
clutch off and grind it down some, but I don't want to unbalance any
part of it.

LONGER STUDS!!!
Using Blue Locktite is good too for safety! ;-)

" > wrote in message
news:4a3a08fc-8842-4c12-90b8-
snip

I don't know why the mating plate is thicker. This one has the slots
instead of bore-through holes. I do worry about anything that is not
properly installed, and I have long believed that studs should go all
the way through the nut. These are close, but I believe you should
see two or three three threads protruding. I could take the fan
clutch off and grind it down some, but I don't want to unbalance any
part of it.

On Jan 27, 7:07*pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" >
wrote:
> LONGER STUDS!!!
> Using Blue Locktite is good too for safety! *;-)
>
> " > wrote in message
>
> news:4a3a08fc-8842-4c12-90b8-
> snip
>
> I don't know why the mating plate is thicker. *This one has the slots
> instead of bore-through holes. *I do worry about anything that is not
> properly installed, and I have long believed that studs should go all
> the way through the nut. *These are close, but I believe you should
> see two or three three threads protruding. *I could take the fan
> clutch off and grind it down some, but I don't want to unbalance any
> part of it.

Can I remove the studs from the frontspiece of the water pump and
replace them with ones another 1/4" - 1/2" longer?

Yes!
You can use 2 nuts and lock them together on the stud which will basically
make that stud a bolt which you can use a wrench on the inner nut to remove
the stud. ;-)
Give it a try and let us know!


" > wrote in message
...
On Jan 27, 7:07 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" >
wrote:
> LONGER STUDS!!!
> Using Blue Locktite is good too for safety! ;-)
>


Can I remove the studs from the frontspiece of the water pump and
replace them with ones another 1/4" - 1/2" longer?

On Jan 28, 4:36*am, "dave AKA vwdoc1" >
wrote:
> Yes!
> You can use 2 nuts and lock them together on the stud which will basically
> make that stud a bolt which you can use a wrench on the inner nut to remove
> the stud. ;-)
> Give it a try and let us know!
>
> " > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Jan 27, 7:07 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" >
> wrote:
>
> > LONGER STUDS!!!
> > Using Blue Locktite is good too for safety! ;-)
>
> Can I remove the studs from the frontspiece of the water pump and
> replace them with ones another 1/4" - 1/2" longer?

I replaced the studs, but now the fan will not turn at start-up--
squeals and it smells hot. Before I replaced the studs and
reinstalled the fan, the fan turned smoothly and quietly.