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#1
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Full Synthetic Oil, worth it?
Full Synthetic Oil such as Red Line, Amsoil and Mobil 1 along with
longer intervals between changes. What is the generial feeling on this? |
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#2
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On 9 Dec 2004 06:03:00 -0800, "VA_Tech_Hokies" >
wrote: >Full Synthetic Oil such as Red Line, Amsoil and Mobil 1 along with >longer intervals between changes. What is the generial feeling on this? IMHO: Really depends on your driving and maintenance behavor. If you are the normal driver with normal maintenance habits(following the scheduled maintance plan), then regular oil should be find. This is the group I am in. If you race your car in some professional competition and invest a lot of money in materials and maintenance, I'm sure you would benifit from full sinthetic oil. BTW: Never change your oil change frequencies to compensate for the price of the oil you use. Follow your engine/car manufactures recommended oil change schedule. Just to prove a point, call them up and ask if your warrenty is voided if you goto 6000 mile oil change schedules since you're paying more for oil each time. hth, tom @ www.CarFleaMarket.com |
#3
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"VA_Tech_Hokies" > wrote in message oups.com... > Full Synthetic Oil such as Red Line, Amsoil and Mobil 1 along with > longer intervals between changes. What is the generial feeling on this? > A mass of sentiment on both sides. No clear consensus. They are bit expensive, do a good job most likely. Fossil oils are also quite good nowadays and are cheaper. I wouldnt run a car at long extended change schedules in any case. |
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#5
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"VA_Tech_Hokies" > wrote in message oups.com... > Full Synthetic Oil such as Red Line, Amsoil and Mobil 1 along with > longer intervals between changes. What is the generial feeling on this? I tend to feel that synthetics and synthetic blends are particularly good for turbocharged and supercharged applications, and that they're overkill otherwise. I would also consider avoiding full synthetics if the car sits unused for long periods, as there are reports of these oils not retaining an anti-oxidative film on engine parts for as long as conventional oils do. I don't have data to support those stories, so take that FWIW. I wouldn't increase the change interval by an appreciable amount in any event. |
#6
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On 9 Dec 2004 06:03:00 -0800, "VA_Tech_Hokies" > wrote:
||Full Synthetic Oil such as Red Line, Amsoil and Mobil 1 along with ||longer intervals between changes. What is the generial feeling on this? On our new cars we use Synthetic Valvoline or Mobil 1 at 5000 miles, always Wix filters.. On older, high-mileage cars its generic Parts Plus oil (Valvoline) at 3000 miles, with Parts Plus (Champion Labs) filters. Texas Parts Guy |
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#8
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Steve wrote:
> wrote: > > >> On our new cars we use Synthetic Valvoline or Mobil 1 at 5000 miles, >> always Wix >> filters.. >> On older, high-mileage cars its generic Parts Plus oil (Valvoline) at >> 3000 >> miles, with Parts Plus (Champion Labs) filters. >> Texas Parts Guy > > > I use Mobil 1 and Wix filters in the OLD cars... they're the ones I plan > to keep forever! :-) > > (Actually, I use it in my wife's "new" <cough> 1993 car also). > Hell yeah! the Porsche gets nothing but Mobil 1. Crazy thing is, since I put it on a Mobil 1/Wix regimen, oil consumption has gone down and oil pressure has gone up. Go figure. It drank oil for the first few thousand miles I had it and now it's settled down to about a quart an oil change. I can only surmise that it's cleaned out a lot of gunk and now the seal conditioners are doing their thing. nate -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
#9
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The Cat wrote:
>>As far as increasing the oil change intevals based on viscosity break >>down, with all premium oils I was told the weakest link is not the >>viscosity, but the additives. Like ph-buffers, anti-oxidents and anti >>emosifiers. >> >>At 10,000 miles you might be protected against thermal breakdown with >>synthetic, but the car's engine is rusting from the inside out from acid >>formation and general corrosion. > > > The most likely component affected would probably be the oil pan, it is > sheet metal. Actually, the soft (and important) bearing material will begin pitting WAY before the block or pan. |
#10
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The Cat wrote: > My only question is does the added expense of synthetic or synthetic blend > return any advantages (easier starting in the winter for the same grade > oil, for example) over so called dino oil? My answer is - It is unlikely that you will save any money buy using synthetic oil if you fall into the least stressful 98% of US drivers. However, I still use synthetic oil iin one of my cars (a 4 cyulinder Saturn Vue) and a synthetic blend in two others (newer Fords), and regular old petroleum based oil in all my farm equipement (three tractors, two trucks, and several small engines). ThHis of course is stupid, since the Saturn is the cheapest vehicle, and the farm tractor are hideously expensive (think Ford GT expensive). Oh well. Ed |
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