Tire Stores and lug nut torque settings

Had my tires (BFG T/A 31 10.5x15) rotated and balanced by a Big O Tire
Store. Decided to try out my new Proto 6016 torque wrench. On the front
tires 6 lugs were under torque and 2 were over torqued. On the rear
tires I just loosened them a bit with my lug wrench and set them to the
proper torque (95ft/lbs or 130n/m). This probably doesn't come as a huge
shock to most in the group, but if it saves one loose wheel or a set of
warped rotors it was probably worth posting. Even if they were perfect
in the shop I guess they should be re-torqued after a day or so.
--
FRH

Frank_v7.0 wrote:
> Had my tires (BFG T/A 31 10.5x15) rotated and balanced by a Big O Tire
> Store. Decided to try out my new Proto 6016 torque wrench. On the front
> tires 6 lugs were under torque and 2 were over torqued. On the rear
> tires I just loosened them a bit with my lug wrench and set them to the
> proper torque (95ft/lbs or 130n/m). This probably doesn't come as a huge
> shock to most in the group, but if it saves one loose wheel or a set of
> warped rotors it was probably worth posting. Even if they were perfect
> in the shop I guess they should be re-torqued after a day or so.

Not a shock at all. Tire shop morons can be found everywhere. If you
rotate at home, you can lightly lube the stud before reassembling then
torque exactly to specs. If using alloys, always slightly loosen then
retorque a day or two later.

To make things easier, invest in a good air compressor and tank and
purchase good peneumatic impact wrench to loosen up tight lugs and such.
I used mine to loosen some unbelievably tight drain plugs in the
transfer case and transmission during first maintenance.

Fawn Liebowitz wrote:
> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
>> Had my tires (BFG T/A 31 10.5x15) rotated and balanced by a Big O Tire
>> Store. Decided to try out my new Proto 6016 torque wrench. On the
>> front tires 6 lugs were under torque and 2 were over torqued. On the
>> rear tires I just loosened them a bit with my lug wrench and set them
>> to the proper torque (95ft/lbs or 130n/m). This probably doesn't come
>> as a huge shock to most in the group, but if it saves one loose wheel
>> or a set of warped rotors it was probably worth posting. Even if they
>> were perfect in the shop I guess they should be re-torqued after a day
>> or so.
>
> Not a shock at all. Tire shop morons can be found everywhere. If you
> rotate at home, you can lightly lube the stud before reassembling then
> torque exactly to specs.

Just 'where' are you going to find the new 'wet torque' specs for your
lug nuts? It 'sure' isn't the dry torque setting of 95 ft lb, it has to
be way less. Some charts say 60% or less depending on the grade of the
stud.

All torque settings given in books are 'dry' torque settings with a
clean dry stud or bolt unless they specify 'wet'. Dry is an 'understood'.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

Fawn Liebowitz wrote:
> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
>> Had my tires (BFG T/A 31 10.5x15) rotated and balanced by a Big O Tire
>> Store. Decided to try out my new Proto 6016 torque wrench. On the
>> front tires 6 lugs were under torque and 2 were over torqued. On the
>> rear tires I just loosened them a bit with my lug wrench and set them
>> to the proper torque (95ft/lbs or 130n/m). This probably doesn't come
>> as a huge shock to most in the group, but if it saves one loose wheel
>> or a set of warped rotors it was probably worth posting. Even if they
>> were perfect in the shop I guess they should be re-torqued after a day
>> or so.
>
> Not a shock at all. Tire shop morons can be found everywhere. If you
> rotate at home, you can lightly lube the stud before reassembling then
> torque exactly to specs. If using alloys, always slightly loosen then
> retorque a day or two later.
>
> To make things easier, invest in a good air compressor and tank and
> purchase good peneumatic impact wrench to loosen up tight lugs and such.
> I used mine to loosen some unbelievably tight drain plugs in the
> transfer case and transmission during first maintenance.
My 20" X lug wrench works for me and fits my budget. I have Jeep ECCO
alloys and that's why I loosen and re-torque. Good point. BTW "Fawn
Leibowitz" ROTF LMAO! Animal House, right? :-)

--
FRH

Mike Romain wrote:
> Fawn Liebowitz wrote:
>> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
>>> Had my tires (BFG T/A 31 10.5x15) rotated and balanced by a Big O Tire
>>> Store. Decided to try out my new Proto 6016 torque wrench. On the
>>> front tires 6 lugs were under torque and 2 were over torqued. On the
>>> rear tires I just loosened them a bit with my lug wrench and set them
>>> to the proper torque (95ft/lbs or 130n/m). This probably doesn't come
>>> as a huge shock to most in the group, but if it saves one loose wheel
>>> or a set of warped rotors it was probably worth posting. Even if they
>>> were perfect in the shop I guess they should be re-torqued after a day
>>> or so.
>> Not a shock at all. Tire shop morons can be found everywhere. If you
>> rotate at home, you can lightly lube the stud before reassembling then
>> torque exactly to specs.
>
> Just 'where' are you going to find the new 'wet torque' specs for your
> lug nuts? It 'sure' isn't the dry torque setting of 95 ft lb, it has to
> be way less. Some charts say 60% or less depending on the grade of the
> stud.
>
> All torque settings given in books are 'dry' torque settings with a
> clean dry stud or bolt unless they specify 'wet'. Dry is an 'understood'.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Yup! I'm a dry torque guy. :-)


--
FRH

On Feb 24, 1:59*pm, Fawn Liebowitz > wrote:
> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
> > Had my tires (BFG T/A 31 10.5x15) rotated and balanced by a Big O Tire
> > Store. Decided to try out my new Proto 6016 torque wrench. On the front
> > tires 6 lugs were under torque and 2 were over torqued. On the rear
> > tires I just loosened them a bit with my lug wrench and set them to the
> > proper torque (95ft/lbs or 130n/m). This probably doesn't come as a huge
> > shock to most in the group, but if it saves one loose wheel or a set of
> > warped rotors it was probably worth posting. Even if they were perfect
> > in the shop I guess they should be re-torqued after a day or so.
>
> Not a shock at all. *Tire shop morons can be found everywhere. *If you
> rotate at home, you can lightly lube the stud before reassembling then
> torque exactly to specs. *If using alloys, always slightly loosen then
> retorque a day or two later.
>
> To make things easier, invest in a good air compressor and tank and
> purchase good peneumatic impact wrench to loosen up tight lugs and such.
> * I used mine to loosen some unbelievably tight drain plugs in the
> transfer case and transmission during first maintenance.

I am going to agree with Mike. Dry torque is correct. Use a WD40 or
light oil or grease, etc and that will be over spec/torqued.

Mike Romain wrote:

> Just 'where' are you going to find the new 'wet torque' specs for your
> lug nuts? It 'sure' isn't the dry torque setting of 95 ft lb, it has to
> be way less. Some charts say 60% or less depending on the grade of the
> stud.

Torque is torque, wet or dry. I've heard arguments both ways, and I
think the fanatical dry-torque crowd is full of horsehockey. Same goes
for the dry-torque spark plug crowd. Lube those suckers up!

Animal House was a stitch! I love good comedy almost as much as the
silly responses that newsgroups tend to attract.

Cheers!

ULB wrote:
> On Feb 24, 1:59 pm, Fawn Liebowitz > wrote:
>> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
>>> Had my tires (BFG T/A 31 10.5x15) rotated and balanced by a Big O Tire
>>> Store. Decided to try out my new Proto 6016 torque wrench. On the front
>>> tires 6 lugs were under torque and 2 were over torqued. On the rear
>>> tires I just loosened them a bit with my lug wrench and set them to the
>>> proper torque (95ft/lbs or 130n/m). This probably doesn't come as a huge
>>> shock to most in the group, but if it saves one loose wheel or a set of
>>> warped rotors it was probably worth posting. Even if they were perfect
>>> in the shop I guess they should be re-torqued after a day or so.
>> Not a shock at all. Tire shop morons can be found everywhere. If you
>> rotate at home, you can lightly lube the stud before reassembling then
>> torque exactly to specs. If using alloys, always slightly loosen then
>> retorque a day or two later.
>>
>> To make things easier, invest in a good air compressor and tank and
>> purchase good peneumatic impact wrench to loosen up tight lugs and such.
>> I used mine to loosen some unbelievably tight drain plugs in the
>> transfer case and transmission during first maintenance.
>
> I am going to agree with Mike. Dry torque is correct. Use a WD40 or
> light oil or grease, etc and that will be over spec/torqued.

A drill and wire brush on the threads makes the dry torqueing much
easier. Just watch for one of the click type torque wrenches to go on
sale and safe your rotors. The old X tire lug wrenches are great for
spinning them on and off, but nowhere near good enough for alloy wheels.

On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 17:14:24 -0800, Fawn Liebowitz >
wrote:

>Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> Just 'where' are you going to find the new 'wet torque' specs for your
>> lug nuts? It 'sure' isn't the dry torque setting of 95 ft lb, it has to
>> be way less. Some charts say 60% or less depending on the grade of the
>> stud.
>
>Torque is torque, wet or dry.

Not quite... The amount of force applied to the fastener (stretch) is
different based on dry vs. wet torquing.

> I've heard arguments both ways, and I
>think the fanatical dry-torque crowd is full of horsehockey. Same goes
>for the dry-torque spark plug crowd. Lube those suckers up!

As long as one knows how much force to apply to the fastener, sure wet
vs dry doesn't matter.

>
>Animal House was a stitch! I love good comedy almost as much as the
>silly responses that newsgroups tend to attract.
>
>Cheers!

Keep bringing it on...

Fawn Liebowitz wrote:

> Torque is torque, wet or dry. Lube those suckers up!

Nope.

>
> Animal House was a stitch! I love good comedy almost as much as the
> silly responses that newsgroups tend to attract.
>
> Cheers!

You seem to fit right in there 'Fawn', but telling folks to do dangerous
stuff in a public forum is a no no, whether you think it is a joke or not...

There is a major difference in wet and dry torque settings.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com