Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96

"NJPainter" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Is your engine still running?
> >
> > If yes, then the gauge is just plain lying to you!
> >
> > If no, then you really do need engine work or oil work.
> >
> > There is 'no' in-between.
> >
> >
>
> Engine is running, but doesn't seem to run as strong when the
> pressure is at zero. What weight oil would you recommend?
>
Higher weight oils don't lubricate as well as lower weight. Trying to
compensate for apparently low oil pressure, with a higher weight oil, may
cause problems. Another way to look at it, is that you don't really care
how much oil pressure there is at the engine gauge port, or what the gauge
is reading. What is of interest, is how much fresh oil flow is reaching
your engine bearings, and how well that lubricates them. This factor is
going to go down, if you use an oil of excessive weight for the application.

The following information is intended for the air cooled Volkswagen engine,
but it is apropos to this case too.

http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=239
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237

"Another concern is the weight of the oil. Remember, the heavier the oil,
the less it lubricates. We run 20 weight in our race engines and 10-30
weight in all street engines. Only if the temperature is constantly above
80-85 degrees would I consider 10-40 weight. 5-30 should be used when
temperature falls to below 45 degrees. For freezing temperatures straight 10
weight would be my choice."


Earle



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Mike Romain wrote:

> Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> blind?
>
> None of the bull**** 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.

Mike is right. Without hooking a mechanical pressure guage directly to
the block, an accurate diagnosis cannot be made.

Fire this mechanic. Find another who will perform an accurate diagnosis
before you open your wallet.

NJPainter wrote:

> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
> holes than the Pure One.

1. Use only the OEM recommended lubricant viscosity.

2. Don't put Fram-anything on any vehicle you own. Fram products are
junk. Stick with OEM or direct-replacement OEM-supplier parts.

3. Get a proper diagnosis made and quit worrying about band-aids.

On 13 Oct 2006 09:11:01 -0700, "NJPainter" > wrote:

>
>Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
>> 4000 miles isn't really that long, and it's not NEARLY enough to cause
>> the kind of problem you are having. If you regularly drove it 10,000
>> miles or more between oil changes then you could have this problem, but
>> not one 4,000 interval.
>>
>
>what if I used Hyperlube, instead of Lucas?
>
> Man, I don't know what the deal is, all I know is that I let the oil
>go to long in the dead of the summer, when I was doing a ton of stop
>and go driving, stops, and re-starts. About 4 or 5 a day.
>
>The problem first presented itself after driving 40 minutes or so at
>70-80 MPH, then sitting in traffic for another half hour or more.
>That's why I think it has to do with the oil. But I'm probably wrong.

No, you're probably an idiot, and most likely your "mechanic" is too.

You have been told several times what needs to be done. You need a
mechanical gauge hooked up to it when the dash gauge is reading zero
so you can verify that the engine does, or doesn't have oil pressure.
If this wasn't the first thing your "mechanic" did, then you need to
drop the asshole like a bad habit. If you're not capable of hooking
up a mechanical gauge, then pay somebody who is. My guess is you have
a problem with the "pay" word. You whine about the dealer's
diagnostic fee, yet you have no problem with your "mechanic's"
guessing it has plugged returns, which, if you've been honest and you
only went 4,000 miles on one oil change, is impossible.

Either way, get it checked out BEFORE coming back here with more
whining and 'what if's.

"NJPainter" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> Herb Leong wrote:
>
>>
>> #It is also 'super' easy to clear the CPU codes... Just disconnect the
>> #battery for a few minutes.... There are also auto store places that
>> #will check the codes for free.
>> Checking them should just be a matter of turn the ignition on, off, on,
>> off, on without cranking...
>>
>> /herb
>
> thx-
>
> My mechanic sent me to the dealer to have the CPU flashed? He said
> that only the dealers can reprogram the cars. The dealer told me that
> the CPU has nothing to do with it. They said it could be wiring, wear
> or possibly blockage.
>
> I was leery of having the dealership do work, or even the diagnostic
> this morning because the cost seemed out of hand. I'm leaning towards
> having my mechanic clean out the returns since I read in another thread
> that that worked for another guy with the same problem...
>
> thx
>

I'm not trying to be a prick here, but are you actually reading what people
are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not the
problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!

Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it. The
valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in the
head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every time
the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.

I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
gauge should be your first step.

One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when you
do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and also
know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.

Chris

Ditto!
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> You are driving me insane reading this!
>
> Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> blind?
>
> None of the bull**** 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
>
> Arrgggg!
>
> Or are you one of those 'fools and their money'?
>
> On that note, I am off bush running in my Jeep for the weekend, good
> luck.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

In one of the Spanish newsgroups we were trying to decide whether a
particular poster was "tomándonos el pelo" or just "un burro". This should
be pretty easy to figure out here.

Earle

"L.W.(Bill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
...
> Ditto!
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > You are driving me insane reading this!
> >
> > Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put it
> > in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> > blind?
> >
> > None of the bull**** 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
> >
> > Arrgggg!
> >
> > Or are you one of those 'fools and their money'?
> >
> > On that note, I am off bush running in my Jeep for the weekend, good
> > luck.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

It is past the teasing stage.


"Earle Horton" > wrote in message
.. .
> In one of the Spanish newsgroups we were trying to decide whether a
> particular poster was "tomándonos el pelo" or just "un burro". This
> should
> be pretty easy to figure out here.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W.(Bill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Ditto!
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> http://www.billhughes.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>> >
>> > You are driving me insane reading this!
>> >
>> > Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put
>> > it
>> > in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
>> > blind?
>> >
>> > None of the bull**** 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
>> >
>> > Arrgggg!
>> >
>> > Or are you one of those 'fools and their money'?
>> >
>> > On that note, I am off bush running in my Jeep for the weekend, good
>> > luck.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>

One thing I learned while I was in Spain. It is "never" past the teasing
stage. You should see the letter I recently wrote to the newspaper about
the local school system. Here are the good bits

"...I have noticed that many of the local people are exceptionally stupid...
....I used to think that poor upbringing was the cause of this, but now I
suspect that education has something to do with it..."

You could have knocked me over with a feather, when the newspaper editor
printed it! I will have to revise my opinion of her muy pronto.

Earle

"billy ray" > wrote in message
...
> It is past the teasing stage.
>
>
> "Earle Horton" > wrote in message
> .. .
> > In one of the Spanish newsgroups we were trying to decide whether a
> > particular poster was "tomándonos el pelo" or just "un burro". This
> > should
> > be pretty easy to figure out here.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "L.W.(Bill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >> Ditto!
> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> http://www.billhughes.com/
> >>
> >> Mike Romain wrote:
> >> >
> >> > You are driving me insane reading this!
> >> >
> >> > Why oh why don't you just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and put
> >> > it
> >> > in there instead of letting those so called 'mechanics' rip you off
> >> > blind?
> >> >
> >> > None of the bull**** 'fixes' you have posted here has been valid.
> >> >
> >> > Arrgggg!
> >> >
> >> > Or are you one of those 'fools and their money'?
> >> >
> >> > On that note, I am off bush running in my Jeep for the weekend, good
> >> > luck.
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> >
>
>




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

I've been using Fram oil filters since forever, and that's all I ever
used on my old Jeep engine, the one that only lasted 300,000.

NJ Painter, Geeze dude, this isn't rocket science, STOP FOOLING AROUND
AND FIND OUT WHAT YOUR OIL PRESSURE REALLY IS!!!

Jeff DeWitt

Outatime wrote:
> NJPainter wrote:
>
>> Today it took 15 minutes to bottom out. I'm thinking if I put a higher
>> weight oil in there it might do the trick. I'm also switching out the
>> FRAM filter. I read of another guy who changed out the Fram and the
>> problem went away. I noticed that the Fram Tough Guard has smaller
>> holes than the Pure One.
>
>
> 1. Use only the OEM recommended lubricant viscosity.
>
> 2. Don't put Fram-anything on any vehicle you own. Fram products are
> junk. Stick with OEM or direct-replacement OEM-supplier parts.
>
> 3. Get a proper diagnosis made and quit worrying about band-aids.