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Stupid welder question
I've got a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I've got two problems with it I
need to address. One is that the steering knuckles have notches worn or correded into them on the sliders where the brake pads ride, the other is that the bolt-hole where the track bar is secured to the frame has gone oval. My plan was to get a couple of new steering knuckles and a couple of hardened washers and put the steering knuckles on and have the washers welded to the frame where the bolt goes through. I'm not interested in "how do you know it needs these repairs" advice-- I've had it apart and I've seen the notches and the oval hole. Now, to the question. A couple of steering knuckles go for about 230 bucks and shipping, and for that I can get one of Harbor Freight's little #91110 80 amp 110v inverter stick welders and an auto mask and gloves and a box of E6013 rods. So my inclination is to get the welder, do a few practice welds on some scrap, and then have at it. I figure that the worst outcome won't leave me any worse off than I am now--if the weld comes out of the notches the brakes still work as well as they're working now, and if the washers let go the wobble isn't any worse than it is now, and I'd end up with welder that should suffice for the hobby projects I envision and possibly the occasional muffler. Am I being insanely stupid by going this route? Note that I am well aware that there are much better welders available, but right now I'm near broke and buying a pro grade Lincoln or Miller is out of the question, as is stringing a 220v line to a detached garage for one of the Lincoln tombstones. I'm also aware that learning welding in the school of hard knocks by welding stuff on which my life depends would be stupid, but in this case the risk is small since the consequences of weld failure would be to return me to a status quo that is working. |
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#2
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Stupid welder question
J. Clarke wrote:
> I've got a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I've got two problems with it I > need to address. One is that the steering knuckles have notches worn > or correded into them on the sliders where the brake pads ride, the > other is that the bolt-hole where the track bar is secured to the > frame has gone oval. Might think of a 115V MIG that can use flux core or gas. That's what I'm looking at doing. As for the problems, had em both on my 93. Got a local muffler/brake shop to mig the notches and file them flat again. Cost me about $40 and that included having them do all the work. As for the oval, that could be fixed the same way, just put a bit more metal in there and redrill/grind. Washers would work too, but you don't need hardened, regular steel will do. Besides, when you heat hardened it changes back to regular steel. hardening is a tempering process and quite tricky. I've tried my hand at stick and gas. Never could get the hang of stick welding but did "ok" with gas. Been looking at a small MIG unit and debating the lower end one Sears has or just getting a Miller and putting it in my will. I was told to look for the drive assembly and stay away from anything with plastic gears or carriers. -- DougW |
#3
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Stupid welder question
On 2/12/2012 5:27 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
>... > A couple of steering knuckles go for about 230 bucks and shipping, and > for that I can get one of Harbor Freight's little #91110 80 amp 110v > inverter stick welders and an auto mask and gloves and a box of E6013 > rods. So my inclination is to get the welder, do a few practice welds > > > Personally I doubt that little welder would have the power to weld anything substantial. I'd guess in the end you'd figure you wasted your money and time! -- I'm never going to grow up. |
#4
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Stupid welder question
On 2/13/2012 10:37 PM, DougW wrote:
>... > I've tried my hand at stick and gas. Never could get > the hang of stick welding but did "ok" with gas. Been > looking at a small MIG unit and debating the lower end > one Sears has or just getting a Miller and putting it > in my will. I was told to look for the drive assembly > and stay away from anything with plastic gears or carriers. > I've got a 120 amp Snap-On MIG welder, and I'm sure it would have some serious difficulty doing a good weld on these pieces. Which brings up your other solution: just take them to someone with a bigger welder and have them build up the welds for you. Then use a grinder to smooth it all out. As for that ovaled hole, I agree, regular thick washers should do the trick. -- I'm never going to grow up. |
#5
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Stupid welder question
"PeterD" > wrote in message ... > On 2/12/2012 5:27 PM, J. Clarke wrote: > >>... >> A couple of steering knuckles go for about 230 bucks and shipping, and >> for that I can get one of Harbor Freight's little #91110 80 amp 110v >> inverter stick welders and an auto mask and gloves and a box of E6013 >> rods. So my inclination is to get the welder, do a few practice welds >> >> >> > > Personally I doubt that little welder would have the power to weld > anything substantial. I'd guess in the end you'd figure you wasted your > money and time! > > -- > I'm never going to grow up. Peter, I have both a 120V buzzbox 70 amp welder and a 120V cored wire welder. I replaced a 1 1/4" receiver tube with a 2" using just the buzzbox and 1/16" 6013 rod It was strong enough to pull an 8 X 10 wooden shed over .. not apart, but rolled it over endwise. I've done similar welding with the wire unit and if you make enough passes, laying good beads, it'll hold. Budd (over 30 years welding experience ... it's not the welding machine as much as the welder operating it) --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- |
#6
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Stupid welder question
On 2/15/2012 1:29 AM, Budd Cochran wrote:
> > Budd (over 30 years welding experience ... it's not the welding machine as > much as the welder operating it) > > > Budd, I think your last sentence says an awful lot! A skilled welder can do some amazing things, but the average welder will have some serious problems with a weld that has poor penetration due to lack of heat. <g> -- I'm never going to grow up. |
#7
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Stupid welder question
"PeterD" > wrote in message ... > On 2/15/2012 1:29 AM, Budd Cochran wrote: > >> >> Budd (over 30 years welding experience ... it's not the welding machine >> as >> much as the welder operating it) >> >> >> > > Budd, I think your last sentence says an awful lot! A skilled welder can > do some amazing things, but the average welder will have some serious > problems with a weld that has poor penetration due to lack of heat. <g> > > > -- > I'm never going to grow up. True, but as the old saying correctly goes: "perfect practice makes perfect". With a low output welder, you have to use several passes and arc size control (arc length and rod diameter) to help with penetration and bead size. A smaller rod has a hotter arc, a bigger rod deposits more filler IF you have enough heat to insure penetration The main advantage to wire welders, including flux cored, is the lower amount of slag residue. With a stick welder, you must remove all slag before making the next pass. And definitely get even a cheap Harbor Freight automatic welding helmet ... your eyes will sing praises. Budd --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- |
#8
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Stupid welder question
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#10
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Stupid welder question
Online only right now at Harbor Freight:
90 amp flux welder $99.97. #98871 While supplies last. http://www.harborfreight.com/90-amp-...der-98871.html It's also on their front page. Act quickly! |
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