fuses a go, go.

the rear lights went out and rotating the fuses brought 'em back.
the Q. is after 50 yrs. do I need a new block or are some of the fuses
bad, esp. the ones that look like they're made out of aluminum. are they
reacting with the brass holders? Type one, and the cover seems to have
disappeared. would the cover help with the oxidation?
Help!

On Jul 26, 12:00*pm, A VFW > wrote:
> the rear lights went out and rotating the fuses brought 'em back.
> the Q. is after 50 yrs. do I need a new block or are some of the fuses
> bad, esp. the ones that look like they're made out of aluminum. are they
> reacting with the brass holders? *

No, they are not reacting with the brass holders.

Go to
http://www.aircooled.net/

or
http://www.cip1.com/

and order some new fuses.

Type one, and the cover seems to have
> disappeared. would the cover help with the oxidation?
> Help!
Doubtful that it would. it is a possibility that your hood and or
windshield seals are old and leak rain inside the car and onto the
fuse box.
Take it to an auto car wash. Sit inside and see where the leaks are.
I check mine every Fall as a pre Winter check. Then I make a note of
which fuse goes where, remove the fuses, clean the fuse box terminals,
and replace with new fuses.
Just tying to help.

On Jul 26, 2:43*pm, Jim Ed > wrote:
> On Jul 26, 12:00*pm, A VFW > wrote:
>
> > the rear lights went out and rotating the fuses brought 'em back.
> > the Q. is after 50 yrs. do I need a new block or are some of the fuses
> > bad, esp. the ones that look like they're made out of aluminum. are they
> > reacting with the brass holders? *
>
> No, they are not reacting with the brass holders.
>
> Go tohttp://www.aircooled.net/
>
> orhttp://www.cip1.com/
>
> and order some new fuses.
>
> Type one, and the cover seems to have> disappeared. would the cover help with the oxidation?
> > Help!
>
> * Doubtful that it would. *it is a possibility that your hood and or
> windshield seals are old and leak rain inside the car and onto the
> fuse box.
> * Take it to an auto car wash. Sit inside and see where the leaks are.
> * I check mine every Fall as a pre Winter check. Then I make a note of
> which fuse goes where, remove the fuses, clean the fuse box terminals,
> and replace with new fuses.
> * Just tying to help.

I forgot to mention that it might be best to disconnect the battery
before cleaning the fuse box terminals. I seldom do though. Keep aware
that there is power going through some of the fuses even with the key
removed.

I just carefully and gently scrape the inside of the terminals where
the fuses go with a knife and I make sure the knife does not touch
anything else besides the terminal. That could cause big problems.
Bulb grease helps keep the corrosion from coming back.

This link might be helpful:

http://www.vw-resource.com/wiring.html#fuses

In article
>,
Jim Ed > wrote:

> On Jul 26, 2:43*pm, Jim Ed > wrote:
> > On Jul 26, 12:00*pm, A VFW > wrote:
> >
> > > the rear lights went out and rotating the fuses brought 'em back.
> > > the Q. is after 50 yrs. do I need a new block or are some of the fuses
> > > bad, esp. the ones that look like they're made out of aluminum. are they
> > > reacting with the brass holders? *
> >
> > No, they are not reacting with the brass holders.
> >
> > Go tohttp://www.aircooled.net/
> >
> > orhttp://www.cip1.com/
> >
> > and order some new fuses.
> >
> > Type one, and the cover seems to have> disappeared. would the cover help
> > with the oxidation?
> > > Help!
> >
> > * Doubtful that it would. *it is a possibility that your hood and or
> > windshield seals are old and leak rain inside the car and onto the
> > fuse box.
> > * Take it to an auto car wash. Sit inside and see where the leaks are.
> > * I check mine every Fall as a pre Winter check. Then I make a note of
> > which fuse goes where, remove the fuses, clean the fuse box terminals,
> > and replace with new fuses.
> > * Just tying to help.
>
> I forgot to mention that it might be best to disconnect the battery
> before cleaning the fuse box terminals. I seldom do though. Keep aware
> that there is power going through some of the fuses even with the key
> removed.
>
> I just carefully and gently scrape the inside of the terminals where
> the fuses go with a knife and I make sure the knife does not touch
> anything else besides the terminal. That could cause big problems.
> Bulb grease helps keep the corrosion from coming back.
>
> This link might be helpful:
>
> http://www.vw-resource.com/wiring.html#fuses

Why, thanks for the suggestions.
I did clean the contacts and the "aluminum" fuses seemed grooved , kind
of like an annular ring around the ends. suspicious so I did find some
more coppery coloured (brass?/copper) fuses in my kit.
I replaced all the aluminum ones, even tho I spent some moments scrapping
them shiney. Yes, moments I'll NEVER get back.