Need your advice on a good inside automotive tire patch

On 12/9/2015 11:45 AM, Danny D. wrote:
> Danny D. wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 04:37:23 +0000:
>
>> Western States Mfg 800-831-4724 www.westernweld.com
>
> Since vulcanizing cement is easy to come by, the
> problem, it seems, for homeowners, is getting small
> quantities of the two fluids:
> a. buffer spray
> b. inner liner sealer <=== this is the most critical
>
> Also a couple of the basic tools are hard to come by:
> A. Half-moon scraper
> B. Carbide reamer <=== this is the most critical
> C. Conical rasp
>
> I called Western States at 800-831-4724, but they only
> wholesale.
>
> They suggested Bomgaards http://www.bomgaars.com but
> they don't seem to have stores in California.
>
> Given that the carbide reamer and the inner liner
> sealer are the most critical tools, what would you
> use for the carbide reamer?
>
> NOTE: The spiral reamer that comes with most outside
> plug kits doesn't look *anything* like the smooth
> fluted carbide reamer in the videos, where the goal
> is to smooth the cut edges of the belts I believe.
>

If your area has a Tech route salesman, everything you need
is on his truck:
http://www.techtirerepairs.com/

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Wed, 09 Dec 2015 03:47:08 -0600, Vic Smith
> wrote:

>On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 17:48:46 -0700, Ashton Crusher >
>wrote:
>
>
>>
>>The last time I repaired a tire ( punch thru of a screw which I yanked
>>out) I bought a kit with rubber plugs and rubber cement. Greased the
>>hole with cement, put the plug on the inserter tool, shoved it thru
>>form the outside and withdrew the tool. That repair and tire lasted
>>another 20K miles.
>
>Same here. I've done 4 or 5 that way. Kits cost $3-10.
>They didn't come with a rasp when I was buying them.

I think a lot of these "proper ways" are fine but are often simply
driven by lawsuits. Some gas station repaired a flat tire, the guy
then has an accident and blames the repair and gets paid "experts" to
testify it was all because of that improperly done repair. No
evidence that a "proper repair" would have changed anything of course.
The same reason some tire places insist the new tires HAVE to go on
the rear of the car leaving you with half worn out front tires on your
FWD car at the start of snow season.

On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 20:02:08 -0700, rbowman >
wrote:

>On 12/08/2015 03:57 PM, wrote:
>> It is a BMW whether it has 2 wheels or 4. Bimmer or Beemer are both
>> just *******izations of the same name.
>
>Hard to get to either from Bayerische.
Bayerische.Motoren Werkes or smthing like that - and in Cherman that
is somehing like "Bey Emm Vey"

On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 04:09:33 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> wrote:

>clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 18:21:55 -0500:
>
>
>> Different brand tires of the same size, or tires with differing wear
>> amounts amount to the same thing. On AWD cars, and cars with dynamic
>> traction control, you ALWAYS replace tires 4 at a time
>
>Again you seem to have everything wrong?
>
>Who said *anything* about different brand tires of any size?
>
>Are you just making this stuff up?
>
>You're the *only* one talking about different brand tires on the
>same vehicle. Nobody else would even *think* of doing that, except
>as a ghetto maneuver.
I've seen all 3 many tomes - and even 2 tires with the same name
and size can be different. There are, for instance, at least 2 totally
different tires called Tiger PawTouring tires, available in the same
size range - with totally different tread and totally different
carcass - and different speed ratings.

Not a good idea to have one on one side and the other on the other
side, or one on the front and one on the back of any AWD or dynamic
traction control or whatever vehicle.

On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 04:20:56 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> wrote:

>clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 18:01:16 -0500:
>
>> Not so smart now, I see.
>
>Heh heh ... you totally misunderstand the Dunning-Kruger effect.
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning-Kruger_effect
>
>> Better to pay somebody to do it right (particularly with safety
>> related stuff like tires and brakes)
>
>Heh heh ... that's the kind of advice people give who are *not*
>on the home-repair or auto-tech groups.
>
>I didn't ruin the tire repairing it.
>You simply *assumed* that because you *wanted* to assume that.
>
>I never said that.
>
>You clearly have an *agenda* and that agenda is apparently to tell
>us that we can't repair the simplest of things like tires.
>
>Remind me to ask Oren to tell you how we select and buy and
>wind our own garage door torsion springs some day. Or how we
>compress the springs on our struts to replace them.
>
>If you want the job done right, you do it yourself.
>It's not that the pros don't *know* how to do the job right.
>It's simply that we do it better because we delve into the details
>and we care about the results.
>
>We're smart that way.
I guess you have to be to drive a B#mmer. Any company that would
attach the engine mounts to the block with ALUMINUM BOLTS for crying
out loud. Friend's wifes BMW had the engine fall right out of it's
mounts when the bolts broke. Dealer cost to remove and replace those
bolts? Somrthing like $1600.

It took him almost 4 hours. It's his wifes's car - he hates it but
loves his wife. He's been a racer and car guy all his life, as well as
an airplane guy (pilot and builder)

On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 04:25:22 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> wrote:

>Ashton Crusher wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 17:48:46 -0700:
>
>> The last time I repaired a tire ( punch thru of a screw which I yanked
>> out) I bought a kit with rubber plugs and rubber cement. Greased the
>> hole with cement, put the plug on the inserter tool, shoved it thru
>> form the outside and withdrew the tool. That repair and tire lasted
>> another 20K miles.
>
>There's a right way to do things, and a wrong way, and both work.
>You did it the wrong way, and that's fine.
>It's your tire, and I won't knock you for how you repaired it.
>Both ways work.
>
>For reference, here is a great video on the *right* way:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wi5uBUaMsrA
>
>
>Here's my summary of what that video recommends, along with a bit
>of research about where I can obtain the tools and chemicals at
>a good price and in small single-use quantities:
>
>TOOLS: (http://www.vampa.net/category_s/39.htm)
>a. Tire repair awl
>b. Half-moon scraper
>c. Carbide bit reamer
>d. Cone-shaped grinding wheel (<5,000RPM)
>e. PatchPlug
>f. Stitching tool
>
>FLUIDS: (http://www.vampa.net/category_s/36.htm)
>a. Westernweld Inner Liner Pre-Buff Solution Redi-Buff BU32 or BU16S
>b. Westernweld Self-Vulcanizing Fast Drying Cement SV8 or SV32
>c. Westernweld Inner Liner Sealer RS8 or RS32
> http://www.vampa.net/product_p/ww-rs32.htm
>
>It's too late now, but I'm gonna call these guys tomorrow to see
>what I can learn about what is inside those three chemicals above.
>
>Western States Mfg 800-831-4724 www.westernweld.com
And to repair perhaps, on a bad year, ONE tire, you are going to
stock all that stuff (you will invest a C note pretty quickly) - and 2
years from now when you need it it will be all dried out from sitting
in your garage.

Sure you CAN do it - but does it make any sense - and should you -
when you can have it repaired free by someone who does it every day
and is insured if he screws up??

I fix virtually all my own stuff too - but even I draw limits

Danny D. wrote:
> clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 18:01:16 -0500:
>
>> Not so smart now, I see.
>
> Heh heh ... you totally misunderstand the Dunning-Kruger effect.
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning-Kruger_effect
>
>> Better to pay somebody to do it right (particularly with safety
>> related stuff like tires and brakes)
>
> Heh heh ... that's the kind of advice people give who are *not*
> on the home-repair or auto-tech groups.
>
> I didn't ruin the tire repairing it.
> You simply *assumed* that because you *wanted* to assume that.
>
> I never said that.
>
> You clearly have an *agenda* and that agenda is apparently to tell
> us that we can't repair the simplest of things like tires.
>
> Remind me to ask Oren to tell you how we select and buy and
> wind our own garage door torsion springs some day. Or how we
> compress the springs on our struts to replace them.
>
> If you want the job done right, you do it yourself.
> It's not that the pros don't *know* how to do the job right.
> It's simply that we do it better because we delve into the details
> and we care about the results.
>
> We're smart that way.
>
Sounds like you are better than pro(reap pro) Good for you.

clare wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 18:06:06 -0500:

> And you just daid both scoots and cages were called Beemers

I corrected that typo as soon as I had seen it so you probably
didn't see my correction.

Besides, who cares what people who don't own them say?

It's the people who own them who care because they say
"my bimmer has been costing me a lot lately" and from
that we know it's the cage and not the bike.

Everyone else wouldn't know the difference, nor would
they care.

This just goes to show that people argue on the Usenet
things that bother *them*, because what a bimmer/beemer
is was never the topic here.

clare wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 17:58:18 -0500:

>>Hard to get to either from Bayerische.
> Bayerische.Motoren Werkes or smthing like that - and in Cherman that
> is somehing like "Bey Emm Vey"

It didn't come from Bayerische.
It came from BSA.
Did you read the reference?

clare wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 18:14:41 -0500:

> Sure you CAN do it - but does it make any sense - and should you -
> when you can have it repaired free by someone who does it every day
> and is insured if he screws up??
>
> I fix virtually all my own stuff too - but even I draw limits

It turns out that the minimum you need to fix your own holed tire
is the patchplug and something to scrape and stitch the inner
liner rubber away (plus lineslman's pliers which everyone has).
1. Patchplug
2. Scraper/stitcher

3. The vulcanizing cement is very easy to come by.

The two sort-of-nice-to-have things are harder to come by though:
4. The smooth flute-sided carbide reamer, and,
5. The inner liner sealer

So, I'm looking for a local source for both of those (#4 & #5).
If you have a good idea where to get them, let me know.