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#1
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*Serious* newbie question - tune-up HOWTO?
I've always owned electronically controlled cars, never owned a non
fuel-injected car. Is there a good guide online for doing a tune-up on my '68 289 2V coupe? So far I plan on putting in new points, condensor, rotor, cap, plugs and wires. I will set the points with a feeler gauge. I don't have a timing light so I know I need to get one. I am pretty sure that the carb needs to be rebuilt. I've done a ton of rebuilds on motorcycle carbs so I don't think it will be a big stretch to do the automobile one. Am I missing anything? Thanks! Thomas |
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#2
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On Mon, 09 May 2005 14:46:00 GMT, "Thomas Cameron"
> wrote: >I've always owned electronically controlled cars, never owned a non >fuel-injected car. Is there a good guide online for doing a tune-up on my >'68 289 2V coupe? So far I plan on putting in new points, condensor, rotor, >cap, plugs and wires. I will set the points with a feeler gauge. I don't >have a timing light so I know I need to get one. I am pretty sure that the >carb needs to be rebuilt. I've done a ton of rebuilds on motorcycle carbs >so I don't think it will be a big stretch to do the automobile one. > >Am I missing anything? > >Thanks! >Thomas > Look into the Pertronix electronic ignition systems. It replaces the points and condensor while keeping the original distributor. Here's a how-to: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/...itor_ignition/ DP Pics of the cars: http://tinyurl.com/d2q9u |
#3
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I would highly suggest you purchase a copy of Chilton's 641/2-73
Mustang/Cougar Repair Manual. You can go to www.Amazon.com and do a search for Chilton's Repair Manual in the books category... then scan for the Mustang/Cougar one. Then note that they also have a listing for used copies. I just picked one up for $12 and change in brand new still in the wrapper condition. With shipping it came to $19, which saved my about $8 over buying it locally. Not much you say? How about it's enough for 3 more gallons of gas....or about 42 miles of travel... IF I don't kick in the other two barrels... LOL : ) On Mon, 09 May 2005 14:46:00 GMT, "Thomas Cameron" > wrote: >I've always owned electronically controlled cars, never owned a non >fuel-injected car. Is there a good guide online for doing a tune-up on my >'68 289 2V coupe? So far I plan on putting in new points, condensor, rotor, >cap, plugs and wires. I will set the points with a feeler gauge. I don't >have a timing light so I know I need to get one. I am pretty sure that the >carb needs to be rebuilt. I've done a ton of rebuilds on motorcycle carbs >so I don't think it will be a big stretch to do the automobile one. > >Am I missing anything? > >Thanks! >Thomas > Hey! Spikey Likes IT! 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16 |
#4
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On Mon, 09 May 2005 14:46:00 GMT, "Thomas Cameron"
> wrote: >I've always owned electronically controlled cars, never owned a non >fuel-injected car. Is there a good guide online for doing a tune-up on my >'68 289 2V coupe? So far I plan on putting in new points, condensor, rotor, >cap, plugs and wires. I will set the points with a feeler gauge. I don't >have a timing light so I know I need to get one. I am pretty sure that the >carb needs to be rebuilt. I've done a ton of rebuilds on motorcycle carbs >so I don't think it will be a big stretch to do the automobile one. > >Am I missing anything? > >Thanks! >Thomas > u are a foctard u go girl hurc ast |
#5
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>On Mon, 09 May 2005 22:26:34 GMT, wrote:
>I'm a fat GO-GO GIRL >lmfao* >I are a foctard >I am a FAT go-go girl >hurc ast |
#6
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"Spike" > wrote in message
... >I would highly suggest you purchase a copy of Chilton's 641/2-73 > Mustang/Cougar Repair Manual. You can go to www.Amazon.com > and do a search for Chilton's Repair Manual in the books category... > then scan for the Mustang/Cougar one. Then note that they also have a > listing for used copies. I just picked one up for $12 and change in > brand new still in the wrapper condition. With shipping it came to > $19, which saved my about $8 over buying it locally. Not much you say? > How about it's enough for 3 more gallons of gas....or about 42 miles > of travel... IF I don't kick in the other two barrels... LOL : ) Yup, I already have the Chilton's guide - bought it about a week ago and have been reading it cover to cover. Just wanted to see if there were any words of wisdom the group had to share before I dive in. Thomas |
#7
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Thomas Cameron wrote:
Just wanted to see if there were any > words of wisdom the group had to share before I dive in. New plugs, points, condensor, cap, and wires, and a rebuilt carb, that about covers it. As for the timing, I would not trust the markings on the balancer without checking first. This is because the outer ring almost certainly has slipped and rotated from its original position. If you feel that you must use a timing light, bring the #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and mark your actual TDC on the balancer with a nail or paint or chalk. Add additional markings the same distance from TDC as the factory markings are on the balancer. Myself, I don't even bother with a light. I just use a vacuum gauge. With the vacuum advance hose detached, I twist the distriutor until I find max vacuum. Then I reconnect the vacuum advance and drive up a steep hill in high gear and listen for ping. If you have a quiet exhaust this is not hard, but a loud exhaust may cover it up. You don't want to have ANY ping, so err on the side of caution. 180 Out |
#8
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> wrote in message
ups.com... > Thomas Cameron wrote: > > Just wanted to see if there were any >> words of wisdom the group had to share before I dive in. > > New plugs, points, condensor, cap, and wires, and a rebuilt carb, that > about covers it. > > As for the timing, I would not trust the markings on the balancer > without checking first. This is because the outer ring almost > certainly has slipped and rotated from its original position. If you > feel that you must use a timing light, bring the #1 cylinder to TDC on > the compression stroke and mark your actual TDC on the balancer with a > nail or paint or chalk. Add additional markings the same distance from > TDC as the factory markings are on the balancer. > > Myself, I don't even bother with a light. I just use a vacuum gauge. > With the vacuum advance hose detached, I twist the distriutor until I > find max vacuum. Then I reconnect the vacuum advance and drive up a > steep hill in high gear and listen for ping. If you have a quiet > exhaust this is not hard, but a loud exhaust may cover it up. You > don't want to have ANY ping, so err on the side of caution. Excellent info, thanks a bunch. That was what I was looking for! TC |
#9
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In the beginning of the Chilton's Manual, there are some Dos and
Don'ts. Follow them. Follow the Safety Tips. And use the correct tools. Little things like marking the hoses or wires (1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2, etc) helps keep you out of trouble. Surprising how a small dot of white nail polish or paint BEFORE you loosen and rotate a distributor can make it so much easier to return to the original start point. Chilton's is quite good about those helpful pointers. On Tue, 10 May 2005 00:10:31 GMT, "Thomas Cameron" > wrote: >"Spike" > wrote in message .. . >>I would highly suggest you purchase a copy of Chilton's 641/2-73 >> Mustang/Cougar Repair Manual. You can go to www.Amazon.com >> and do a search for Chilton's Repair Manual in the books category... >> then scan for the Mustang/Cougar one. Then note that they also have a >> listing for used copies. I just picked one up for $12 and change in >> brand new still in the wrapper condition. With shipping it came to >> $19, which saved my about $8 over buying it locally. Not much you say? >> How about it's enough for 3 more gallons of gas....or about 42 miles >> of travel... IF I don't kick in the other two barrels... LOL : ) > >Yup, I already have the Chilton's guide - bought it about a week ago and >have been reading it cover to cover. Just wanted to see if there were any >words of wisdom the group had to share before I dive in. > >Thomas > Hey! Spikey Likes IT! 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16 |
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