Plugs and wipers

Hello!
------

Two questions in one:

1) I changed the plugs after 12000 km had passed with the old ones
(Bosch W8AC to Bosch W8AC). The number 2 cylinder had a bit
different color in the old plug. (order 1-2-3-4 in the pic below)

http://olammi.iki.fi/olammi/tulpat20100803.jpg

Does that colouring and deposit tell the trained eye about some
problem in the number two?


2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost
the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the
vipers in "slow" speed. The wiring diagram does not reveal
to me, how actually the speed is controlled. Should I aim
at the viper switch in the steering column, wiring or
the motor itself to find the problem? Any suggestions?

---
Olli

On Tue, 03 Aug 2010 21:38:47 +0200, Olli Lammi
> wrote:

> Hello!
> ------
>
> Two questions in one:
>
> 1) I changed the plugs after 12000 km had passed with the old ones
> (Bosch W8AC to Bosch W8AC). The number 2 cylinder had a bit
> different color in the old plug. (order 1-2-3-4 in the pic below)
>
> http://olammi.iki.fi/olammi/tulpat20100803.jpg
>
> Does that colouring and deposit tell the trained eye about some
> problem in the number two?

It is running lean on cylinder nr. two.
Why is hard to say, are the distributor in the right position and are the
cables located correctly, so that cable to cyl. #three is really in the
correct location on the dizzy?(Only relevant on non-doghouse engines).

Is it the correct dizzy?

Valve clearance?

Partly blocked intake port in head?

J.

>
>
> 2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost
> the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the
> vipers in "slow" speed. The wiring diagram does not reveal
> to me, how actually the speed is controlled. Should I aim
> at the viper switch in the steering column, wiring or
> the motor itself to find the problem? Any suggestions?
>
> ---
> Olli


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Olli Lammi wrote:
> Hello!
> ------
>
> Two questions in one:
>
> 1) I changed the plugs after 12000 km had passed with the old ones
> (Bosch W8AC to Bosch W8AC). The number 2 cylinder had a bit
> different color in the old plug. (order 1-2-3-4 in the pic below)
>
> http://olammi.iki.fi/olammi/tulpat20100803.jpg
>
> Does that colouring and deposit tell the trained eye about some
> problem in the number two?
>
>
> 2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost
> the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the
> vipers in "slow" speed. The wiring diagram does not reveal
> to me, how actually the speed is controlled. Should I aim
> at the viper switch in the steering column, wiring or
> the motor itself to find the problem? Any suggestions?
>
> ---
> Olli


lube the shafts that go through the body. friction (corrosion and dirt)
may be slowing them down.

P.J.Berg wrote:
>
> It is running lean on cylinder nr. two.
> Why is hard to say, are the distributor in the right position and are
> the cables located correctly, so that cable to cyl. #three is really in
> the correct location on the dizzy?(Only relevant on non-doghouse engines).
>
> Is it the correct dizzy?
>
> Valve clearance?
>
> Partly blocked intake port in head?

The engine is a doghouse one, with SVDA dizzy (Bosch 0 231 170 186) and
31 Pict-3 carburettor.

Could an intake leak in the right side cylinder head to ram horn seal
cause this?

I will probably start with checking the HT-lead order and the valve
clearances.

---
Olli

On Wed, 04 Aug 2010 09:25:04 +0200, Olli Lammi
> wrote:

> P.J.Berg wrote:
>> It is running lean on cylinder nr. two.
>> Why is hard to say, are the distributor in the right position and are
>> the cables located correctly, so that cable to cyl. #three is really in
>> the correct location on the dizzy?(Only relevant on non-doghouse
>> engines).
>> Is it the correct dizzy?
>> Valve clearance?
>> Partly blocked intake port in head?
>
> The engine is a doghouse one, with SVDA dizzy (Bosch 0 231 170 186) and
> 31 Pict-3 carburettor.
>
> Could an intake leak in the right side cylinder head to ram horn seal
> cause this?

Indeed it could.

>
> I will probably start with checking the HT-lead order and the valve
> clearances.
>
> ---
> Olli

J.


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P.J.Berg wrote:
> On Wed, 04 Aug 2010 09:25:04 +0200, Olli Lammi
> > wrote:
>
>> P.J.Berg wrote:
>>> It is running lean on cylinder nr. two.
>>> Why is hard to say, are the distributor in the right position and are
>>> the cables located correctly, so that cable to cyl. #three is really
>>> in the correct location on the dizzy?(Only relevant on non-doghouse
>>> engines).
>>> Is it the correct dizzy?
>>> Valve clearance?
>>> Partly blocked intake port in head?
>>
>> The engine is a doghouse one, with SVDA dizzy (Bosch 0 231 170 186)
>> and 31 Pict-3 carburettor.
>>
>> Could an intake leak in the right side cylinder head to ram horn seal
>> cause this?
>
> Indeed it could.
>
>>
>> I will probably start with checking the HT-lead order and the valve
>> clearances.

Checked the HT-lead order and placement. Checked and adjusted valve
clearances to 0,15 mm. All was ok before in my opinion. Played around
with starter spray in the engine compartment when the engine was idling.
Only places I got response with the spray were the intake pipe of the
air cleaner box (that I think should react to the spray) and the left
side of the throttle flap axle.

The throttle axle bushings are worn I guess. This results to some
problems in setting the idle. However I cannot see, why this could
cause just cylinder 2 to run differently.

By the way, I did the 99 cent carb clean routine also

Are there any ways to fix the throttle axle problem except to take
the carb to a shop to be rebushed (or something).

---
Olli

On Wed, 04 Aug 2010 19:17:45 +0200, Olli Lammi
> wrote:

> P.J.Berg wrote:
>> On Wed, 04 Aug 2010 09:25:04 +0200, Olli Lammi
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> P.J.Berg wrote:
>>>> It is running lean on cylinder nr. two.
>>>> Why is hard to say, are the distributor in the right position and are
>>>> the cables located correctly, so that cable to cyl. #three is really
>>>> in the correct location on the dizzy?(Only relevant on non-doghouse
>>>> engines).
>>>> Is it the correct dizzy?
>>>> Valve clearance?
>>>> Partly blocked intake port in head?
>>>
>>> The engine is a doghouse one, with SVDA dizzy (Bosch 0 231 170 186)
>>> and 31 Pict-3 carburettor.
>>>
>>> Could an intake leak in the right side cylinder head to ram horn seal
>>> cause this?
>> Indeed it could.
>>
>>>
>>> I will probably start with checking the HT-lead order and the valve
>>> clearances.
>
> Checked the HT-lead order and placement. Checked and adjusted valve
> clearances to 0,15 mm. All was ok before in my opinion. Played around
> with starter spray in the engine compartment when the engine was idling.
> Only places I got response with the spray were the intake pipe of the
> air cleaner box (that I think should react to the spray) and the left
> side of the throttle flap axle.
>
> The throttle axle bushings are worn I guess. This results to some
> problems in setting the idle. However I cannot see, why this could
> cause just cylinder 2 to run differently.
>
> By the way, I did the 99 cent carb clean routine also
>
> Are there any ways to fix the throttle axle problem except to take
> the carb to a shop to be rebushed (or something).

Nope.

I would not worry about it, all old cars have some play in the throttle
axle.
As long as it idles ok and does not drip gazoline, no worries..

J.

>
> ---
> Olli


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Jan Andersson wrote:
>
>
>> 2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost
>> the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the
>> vipers in "slow" speed. The wiring diagram does not reveal
>> to me, how actually the speed is controlled. Should I aim
>> at the viper switch in the steering column, wiring or
>> the motor itself to find the problem? Any suggestions?
>
>
> lube the shafts that go through the body. friction (corrosion and dirt)
> may be slowing them down.

Tried first with the blades off the windscreen. The second switch
position is faster without the resistance from the actual wiping.
Lubed the shafts. Lubed the joints in the levers between shafts and the
motor. Fiddled with the connectors in the steering column. Now
the blades go maybe a tad faster in the 2nd position when the blades
touch the windscreen. It's possible though that when there is water
in the screen to lubricate, it will work better.

---
Olli

On Wed, 04 Aug 2010 19:17:45 +0200, Olli Lammi
> wrote:

> P.J.Berg wrote:
>> On Wed, 04 Aug 2010 09:25:04 +0200, Olli Lammi
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> P.J.Berg wrote:
>>>> It is running lean on cylinder nr. two.
>>>> Why is hard to say, are the distributor in the right position and are
>>>> the cables located correctly, so that cable to cyl. #three is really
>>>> in the correct location on the dizzy?(Only relevant on non-doghouse
>>>> engines).
>>>> Is it the correct dizzy?
>>>> Valve clearance?
>>>> Partly blocked intake port in head?
>>>
>>> The engine is a doghouse one, with SVDA dizzy (Bosch 0 231 170 186)
>>> and 31 Pict-3 carburettor.
>>>
>>> Could an intake leak in the right side cylinder head to ram horn seal
>>> cause this?
>> Indeed it could.
>>
>>>
>>> I will probably start with checking the HT-lead order and the valve
>>> clearances.
>
> Checked the HT-lead order and placement. Checked and adjusted valve
> clearances to 0,15 mm. All was ok before in my opinion. Played around
> with starter spray in the engine compartment when the engine was idling.
> Only places I got response with the spray were the intake pipe of the
> air cleaner box (that I think should react to the spray) and the left
> side of the throttle flap axle.
>
> The throttle axle bushings are worn I guess. This results to some
> problems in setting the idle. However I cannot see, why this could
> cause just cylinder 2 to run differently.
>
> By the way, I did the 99 cent carb clean routine also
>
> Are there any ways to fix the throttle axle problem except to take
> the carb to a shop to be rebushed (or something).
>
> ---
> Olli

If you want a little more umpfh, go with .10 in and .15 out.
That is the original settings before they realized people where doing
these things themselves and not bring their cars to the qualified garages.

Another aspect of this is the fact that the valve clearance is given at
TDC, which is not the optimal setting.
The clearance stated is the minimal. So what you want to do is turn the
engine over slightly back and forth with your feeler gauge in there until
you find the biggest clearance/slack. And THAT is where you adjust to .10
or .15

Repeat this for all eight valves and you'll know you have done the right
thing even if it took you an hour or two.

This is not a witch tale, pure physics, test drive and you will notice.

J.

Ps.
Helps to have the rear tin removed so you can move the lower pulley by
hand from underneath the car. All sparkplugs out also eases the pain :0)




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On 8/4/2010 3:33 PM, Olli Lammi wrote:
> Jan Andersson wrote:
>>
>>
>>> 2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost
>>> the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the
>>> vipers in "slow" speed. The wiring diagram does not reveal
>>> to me, how actually the speed is controlled. Should I aim
>>> at the viper switch in the steering column, wiring or
>>> the motor itself to find the problem? Any suggestions?
>>
>>
>> lube the shafts that go through the body. friction (corrosion and dirt) may be slowing them
>> down.
>
> Tried first with the blades off the windscreen. The second switch
> position is faster without the resistance from the actual wiping.
> Lubed the shafts. Lubed the joints in the levers between shafts and the
> motor. Fiddled with the connectors in the steering column. Now
> the blades go maybe a tad faster in the 2nd position when the blades
> touch the windscreen. It's possible though that when there is water
> in the screen to lubricate, it will work better.
>
> ---
> Olli


The biggest load slowing the motor is usually the grease
in the gearbox. After ~40 years, the grease turns quite thick.

The motor speed is controlled by the motor itself.
There is a 3rd brush on the motor for high speed.
This brush is offset from the normal position by some degrees.
The motor armature always attempts to generate a voltage equal to the 12V
applied to the brushes, but the offset position is less efficient,
so the armature must spin faster than normal to "keep up".


Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/