Installed a new battery, blew a fuse, now my 78 Fuel Injected Vertwon't start.

Old battery died
Boy was it crusty under that seat! Its a wonder it was actually
charging and providing enough current to start the car :-0

Installed a new battery and heard a loud "POP" from the other side of
the shifter tunnel. Replaced the fuse and as soon as I closed up the
little round fuse holder, the second fuse blew too.

Wow???? The vert was running great just yesterday????

Installed fuse number three, and it held, but now the car won't start.

Engine turns over but it won't start. Will check for spark, fuel,
compression, etc tomorrow (i.e. the usual troubleshooting routine) but
was wondering if any of you may have experienced something similar
before?


Any ideas??

Jim

fenderjw wrote:
> Old battery died
> Boy was it crusty under that seat! Its a wonder it was actually
> charging and providing enough current to start the car :-0
>
> Installed a new battery and heard a loud "POP" from the other side of
> the shifter tunnel. Replaced the fuse and as soon as I closed up the
> little round fuse holder, the second fuse blew too.
>
> Wow???? The vert was running great just yesterday????
>
> Installed fuse number three, and it held, but now the car won't start.
>
> Engine turns over but it won't start. Will check for spark, fuel,
> compression, etc tomorrow (i.e. the usual troubleshooting routine) but
> was wondering if any of you may have experienced something similar
> before?
>
>
> Any ideas??
>
> Jim



Typically, the only fuse under the seat is for the rear window defogger.

Is there any chance that the new battery was installed Reversed polarity?
Not all batteries have the same post orientation.

If you want, e-mail me directly.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On Apr 8, 9:10*am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> fenderjw wrote:
> > Old battery died
> > Boy was it crusty under that seat! *Its a wonder it was actually
> > charging and providing enough current to start the car :-0
>
> > Installed a new battery and heard a loud "POP" from the other side of
> > the shifter tunnel. *Replaced the fuse and as soon as I closed up the
> > little round fuse holder, the second fuse blew too.
>
> > Wow???? The vert was running great just yesterday????
>
> > Installed fuse number three, and it held, but now the car won't start.
>
> > Engine turns over but it won't start. *Will check for spark, fuel,
> > compression, etc tomorrow (i.e. the usual troubleshooting routine) but
> > was wondering if any of you may have experienced something similar
> > before?
>
> > Any ideas??
>
> > Jim
>
> Typically, the only fuse under the seat is for the rear window defogger.
>
> Is there any chance that the new battery was installed Reversed polarity?
> Not all batteries have the same post orientation.
>
> If you want, e-mail me directly.
>
> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/



Thanks for the reply Speedy Jim!
No, it was installed correctly, Its nice to know however, what the
fuse was for. Its really got me stymied. I guess Ill have to look
elsewhere for the culprit if that fuse is only for the defroster. The
dang thing was running great on Sunday!!!

fenderjw wrote:
> On Apr 8, 9:10 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>> fenderjw wrote:
>>> Old battery died
>>> Boy was it crusty under that seat! Its a wonder it was actually
>>> charging and providing enough current to start the car :-0
>>> Installed a new battery and heard a loud "POP" from the other side of
>>> the shifter tunnel. Replaced the fuse and as soon as I closed up the
>>> little round fuse holder, the second fuse blew too.
>>> Wow???? The vert was running great just yesterday????
>>> Installed fuse number three, and it held, but now the car won't start.
>>> Engine turns over but it won't start. Will check for spark, fuel,
>>> compression, etc tomorrow (i.e. the usual troubleshooting routine) but
>>> was wondering if any of you may have experienced something similar
>>> before?
>>> Any ideas??
>>> Jim
>> Typically, the only fuse under the seat is for the rear window defogger.
>>
>> Is there any chance that the new battery was installed Reversed polarity?
>> Not all batteries have the same post orientation.
>>
>> If you want, e-mail me directly.
>>
>> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
>
>
> Thanks for the reply Speedy Jim!
> No, it was installed correctly, Its nice to know however, what the
> fuse was for. Its really got me stymied. I guess Ill have to look
> elsewhere for the culprit if that fuse is only for the defroster. The
> dang thing was running great on Sunday!!!
>
>
>

Go he
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php
Download:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/...9113wiring.jpg


Do a thorough inspection of the battery positive cable connection.
There should be a thick Red/Wh wire and a thick Red wire joining
the monster black cable in the battery post connector.

Check especially for corroded joints here.

The reason for all this is that the FI gets all its power from this
battery post connection. It may have been disturbed during the
battery replacement.

If that checks out, do this test with a multimeter:

Ignition switched On.
Connect meter from chassis ground to the Coil (+) terminal (Blk wires).
Should read 12V.
Now connect meter to one of the ballast pack resistors. These are
4 ceramic tubes on a bracket mounted to the fender well in the engine bay.
You should read 12V on any of the ballast terminals. This test will
tell if the FI ECU is getting power.

Post back here or e-mail me with results.


Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

On Apr 8, 1:54*pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> fenderjw wrote:
> > On Apr 8, 9:10 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> >> fenderjw wrote:
> >>> Old battery died
> >>> Boy was it crusty under that seat! *Its a wonder it was actually
> >>> charging and providing enough current to start the car :-0
> >>> Installed a new battery and heard a loud "POP" from the other side of
> >>> the shifter tunnel. *Replaced the fuse and as soon as I closed up the
> >>> little round fuse holder, the second fuse blew too.
> >>> Wow???? The vert was running great just yesterday????
> >>> Installed fuse number three, and it held, but now the car won't start..
> >>> Engine turns over but it won't start. *Will check for spark, fuel,
> >>> compression, etc tomorrow (i.e. the usual troubleshooting routine) but
> >>> was wondering if any of you may have experienced something similar
> >>> before?
> >>> Any ideas??
> >>> Jim
> >> Typically, the only fuse under the seat is for the rear window defogger.

On Apr 9, 7:46*am, fenderjw > wrote:
> On Apr 8, 1:54*pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
>
>
> > fenderjw wrote:
> > > On Apr 8, 9:10 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> > >> fenderjw wrote:
> > >>> Old battery died
> > >>> Boy was it crusty under that seat! *Its a wonder it was actually
> > >>> charging and providing enough current to start the car :-0
> > >>> Installed a new battery and heard a loud "POP" from the other side of
> > >>> the shifter tunnel. *Replaced the fuse and as soon as I closed up the
> > >>> little round fuse holder, the second fuse blew too.
> > >>> Wow???? The vert was running great just yesterday????
> > >>> Installed fuse number three, and it held, but now the car won't start.

fenderjw wrote:
> On Apr 9, 7:46 am, fenderjw > wrote:
>> On Apr 8, 1:54 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> fenderjw wrote:
>>>> On Apr 8, 9:10 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>>>> fenderjw wrote:
>>>>>> Old battery died
>>>>>> Boy was it crusty under that seat! Its a wonder it was actually
>>>>>> charging and providing enough current to start the car :-0
>>>>>> Installed a new battery and heard a loud "POP" from the other side of
>>>>>> the shifter tunnel. Replaced the fuse and as soon as I closed up the
>>>>>> little round fuse holder, the second fuse blew too.
>>>>>> Wow???? The vert was running great just yesterday????
>>>>>> Installed fuse number three, and it held, but now the car won't start.
>>>>>> Engine turns over but it won't start. Will check for spark, fuel,
>>>>>> compression, etc tomorrow (i.e. the usual troubleshooting routine) but
>>>>>> was wondering if any of you may have experienced something similar
>>>>>> before?
>>>>>> Any ideas??
>>>>>> Jim
>>>>> Typically, the only fuse under the seat is for the rear window defogger.
>>>>> Is there any chance that the new battery was installed Reversed polarity?
>>>>> Not all batteries have the same post orientation.
>>>>> If you want, e-mail me directly.
>>>>> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>>> Thanks for the reply Speedy Jim!
>>>> No, it was installed correctly, Its nice to know however, what the
>>>> fuse was for. Its really got me stymied. I guess Ill have to look
>>>> elsewhere for the culprit if that fuse is only for the defroster. The
>>>> dang thing was running great on Sunday!!!
>>> Go hehttp://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php
>>> Download:http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/...9113wiring.jpg
>>> Do a thorough inspection of the battery positive cable connection.
>>> There should be a thick Red/Wh wire and a thick Red wire joining
>>> the monster black cable in the battery post connector.
>>> Check especially for corroded joints here.
>>> The reason for all this is that the FI gets all its power from this
>>> battery post connection. It may have been disturbed during the
>>> battery replacement.
>>> If that checks out, do this test with a multimeter:
>>> Ignition switched On.
>>> Connect meter from chassis ground to the Coil (+) terminal (Blk wires).
>>> Should read 12V.
>>> Now connect meter to one of the ballast pack resistors. These are
>>> 4 ceramic tubes on a bracket mounted to the fender well in the engine bay.
>>> You should read 12V on any of the ballast terminals. This test will
>>> tell if the FI ECU is getting power.
>>> Post back here or e-mail me with results.
>>> Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>> Thanks Speedy Jim!
>> I'll run through these steps this weekend and will let you know how it
>> turns out.
>> Jim
>
> OK, Confirmed that the battery has all three wires connected to the
> pos side of the battery and that I have 12v at the coil , but I have
> nothing at the ballast terminals. Guess that means either faulty
> wiring or bad double relay or ECU?????
>
> Thanks again
> Jim


I have a simplified diagram of the double relay circuit he
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/2fi.gif

Turn the Ignition On/Off a few times and listen/feel at the double relay
to see if it clicks. If it does click, then you know the trigger signal
from the coil + is getting there.

Before replacing the relay, I would measure voltage on the wire feeding
all power to the relay. This should be a solid Red wire from the +
battery post terminal. Stick a probe thru the wire insulation to
get a voltage reading without disturbing anything.

Jim

>
> I have a simplified diagram of the double relay circuit hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/2fi.gif
>
> Turn the Ignition On/Off a few times and listen/feel at the double relay
> to see if it clicks. *If it does click, then you know the trigger signal
> from the coil + is getting there.
>
> Before replacing the relay, I would measure voltage on the wire feeding
> all power to the relay. *This should be a solid Red wire from the *+
> battery post terminal. *Stick a probe thru the wire insulation to
> get a voltage reading without disturbing anything.
>
> Jim

OK, will check the voltage this weekend.
In the mean time, I used this checklist http://www.type2.com/bartnik/dblrly..htm
to troubleshoot the relay.
I have power to the relay at pins 88y and 88z (power from pos term of
the battery)
I have power at pins 86c with the ignition switch in the on position
(power from the coil)
I have power at pins 86c and 86a while the starter is engaged (power
from the coil and starter solenoid)
I don't have power, however, at 88d with the starter engaged, which
tells me that the relay is not working.

Looks like the relay is not engaging. Could this be from a lack of
voltage as you mentioned before, or is some other condition frying the
fuel pump relay (remember the pop and two blown fuses when I
reconnected the battery?)?

Thanks for your advice.
Jim

fenderjw wrote:
>> I have a simplified diagram of the double relay circuit hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/2fi.gif
>>
>> Turn the Ignition On/Off a few times and listen/feel at the double relay
>> to see if it clicks. If it does click, then you know the trigger signal
>> from the coil + is getting there.
>>
>> Before replacing the relay, I would measure voltage on the wire feeding
>> all power to the relay. This should be a solid Red wire from the +
>> battery post terminal. Stick a probe thru the wire insulation to
>> get a voltage reading without disturbing anything.
>>
>> Jim
>
> OK, will check the voltage this weekend.
> In the mean time, I used this checklist http://www.type2.com/bartnik/dblrly.htm
> to troubleshoot the relay.
> I have power to the relay at pins 88y and 88z (power from pos term of
> the battery)
> I have power at pins 86c with the ignition switch in the on position
> (power from the coil)
> I have power at pins 86c and 86a while the starter is engaged (power
> from the coil and starter solenoid)
> I don't have power, however, at 88d with the starter engaged, which
> tells me that the relay is not working.
>
> Looks like the relay is not engaging. Could this be from a lack of
> voltage as you mentioned before, or is some other condition frying the
> fuel pump relay (remember the pop and two blown fuses when I
> reconnected the battery?)?
>
> Thanks for your advice.
> Jim
>

Did you make those tests with the relay unplugged?
If so, the readings may not be valid.

Do the test on the Red wire with the relay plugged in and Ign On.

And check whether the relay clicks.

Jim

On Apr 26, 10:48*pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> fenderjw wrote:
> >> I have a simplified diagram of the double relay circuit hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/2fi.gif
>
> >> Turn the Ignition On/Off a few times and listen/feel at the double relay
> >> to see if it clicks. *If it does click, then you know the trigger signal
> >> from the coil + is getting there.
>
> >> Before replacing the relay, I would measure voltage on the wire feeding
> >> all power to the relay. *This should be a solid Red wire from the *+
> >> battery post terminal. *Stick a probe thru the wire insulation to
> >> get a voltage reading without disturbing anything.
>
> >> Jim
>
> > OK, will check the voltage this weekend.
> > In the mean time, I used this checklisthttp://www.type2.com/bartnik/dblrly.htm
> > to troubleshoot the relay.
> > I have power to the relay at pins 88y and 88z (power from pos term of
> > the battery)
> > I have power at pins 86c with the ignition switch in the on position
> > (power from the coil)
> > I have power at pins 86c and 86a while the starter is engaged (power
> > from the coil and starter solenoid)
> > I don't have power, however, at 88d with the starter engaged, which
> > tells me that the relay is not working.
>
> > Looks like the relay is not engaging. *Could this be from a lack of
> > voltage as you mentioned before, or is some other condition frying the
> > fuel pump relay (remember the pop and two blown fuses when I
> > reconnected the battery?)?
>
> > Thanks for your advice.
> > Jim
>
> Did you make those tests with the relay unplugged?
> If so, the readings may not be valid.
>
> Do the test on the Red wire with the relay plugged in and Ign On.
>
> And check whether the relay clicks.
>
> Jim

Wouldnt make mu h sense to he k for voltage with the relay unplugged
would it?
All the above checks were made from the back side of the harness using
a test lamp with everything plugged in.
The inoperative relay bugs me cuz this is the second one in a year
that I've toasted.
Toasted the other one last year when the internal voltage regulator in
the alternator decided to quit.

Thanks
Jim