Rear trailing arm - parking brake cable question

If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I need
to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order to remove
it from the control arm?

Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the trailing
arm once it's oriented just the right way?

(I'm doing planning for bushing replacement some time this summer.)


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

TeGGer® wrote:
> If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I need
> to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order to remove
> it from the control arm?

no.

>
> Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the trailing
> arm once it's oriented just the right way?

yes, you can service it ok without the need to disconnect. the donut
only /looks/ like it's all the way through!

>
> (I'm doing planning for bushing replacement some time this summer.)
>
>

jim beam > wrote in
news:1113195287.66cbd0b8e5285b4d866815891e391c05@t eranews:

> TeGGer® wrote:
>> If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I
>> need to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order
>> to remove it from the control arm?
>
> no.
>
>>
>> Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the
>> trailing arm once it's oriented just the right way?
>
> yes, you can service it ok without the need to disconnect. the donut
> only /looks/ like it's all the way through!



I'm planning to take the arm to a garage to have them press a new bushing
in. Still OK?




--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

TeGGer® wrote:
> jim beam > wrote in
> news:1113195287.66cbd0b8e5285b4d866815891e391c05@t eranews:
>
>
>>TeGGer® wrote:
>>
>>>If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I
>>>need to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order
>>>to remove it from the control arm?
>>
>>no.
>>
>>
>>>Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the
>>>trailing arm once it's oriented just the right way?
>>
>>yes, you can service it ok without the need to disconnect. the donut
>>only /looks/ like it's all the way through!
>
>
>
>
> I'm planning to take the arm to a garage to have them press a new bushing
> in. Still OK?
>
unless there's too much rust or any cracking, sure, it's fine. first
time i replaced bushings, i stripped the arm right down. last time
though, i left it nearly complete & the shop managed it just fine. may
want to remove the compensator arm though. loosening the bolt with the
arm out it real tricky - advise you loosen while still on the vehicle,
then remove once you have the arm out. and make sure the compensator's
attached before trying to refit the trailing arm - the bolt has no
clearance to be refitted in situ. oh, and make sure the shop knows what
they're doing. pretty important they understand the orientation of the
new bushing when it goes in. sounds obvious but...

jim beam > wrote in
news:1113223811.82b32f68dd9c1a32cc1b568569c96524@t eranews:


> unless there's too much rust or any cracking, sure, it's fine. first
> time i replaced bushings, i stripped the arm right down. last time
> though, i left it nearly complete & the shop managed it just fine.
> may want to remove the compensator arm though. loosening the bolt
> with the arm out it real tricky - advise you loosen while still on the
> vehicle, then remove once you have the arm out. and make sure the
> compensator's attached before trying to refit the trailing arm - the
> bolt has no clearance to be refitted in situ. oh, and make sure the
> shop knows what they're doing. pretty important they understand the
> orientation of the new bushing when it goes in. sounds obvious but...
>
>


Thanks for the tips. I did wonder about the orientation of the main
bushing, seeing as how it will need to sit untwisted when the car is at its
normal ride height.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"jim beam" > wrote in message
news:1113223811.82b32f68dd9c1a32cc1b568569c96524@t eranews...
> TeGGer® wrote:
>> jim beam > wrote in
>> news:1113195287.66cbd0b8e5285b4d866815891e391c05@t eranews:
>>>TeGGer® wrote:
>>>
>>>>If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I
>>>>need to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order
>>>>to remove it from the control arm?
>>>
>>>no.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the
>>>>trailing arm once it's oriented just the right way?
>>>
>>>yes, you can service it ok without the need to disconnect. the donut
>>>only /looks/ like it's all the way through!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm planning to take the arm to a garage to have them press a new bushing
>> in. Still OK?
>>
> unless there's too much rust or any cracking, sure, it's fine. first time
> i replaced bushings, i stripped the arm right down. last time though, i
> left it nearly complete & the shop managed it just fine. may want to
> remove the compensator arm though. loosening the bolt with the arm out it
> real tricky - advise you loosen while still on the vehicle, then remove
> once you have the arm out. and make sure the compensator's attached
> before trying to refit the trailing arm - the bolt has no clearance to be
> refitted in situ. oh, and make sure the shop knows what they're doing.
> pretty important they understand the orientation of the new bushing when
> it goes in. sounds obvious but...
>
On a '90 Civic, you would need to remove the hub to disconnect the parking
brake, wouldn't you? I'm planning to take the arm to a machine shop with a
minimum of dissasembly. Looks like you remove brake drum, dust cover,
spindle nut and hub, disconnect the parking brake, unbolt the compensator,
upper and lower controll arms, remove bolts at trailing arm bushing, and
that should just about do it. Or am I missing something? Is there an easier
way?

Thanks,
WW

WaterWatcher wrote:
> "jim beam" > wrote in message
> news:1113223811.82b32f68dd9c1a32cc1b568569c96524@t eranews...
>
>>TeGGer® wrote:
>>
>>>jim beam > wrote in
>>>news:1113195287.66cbd0b8e5285b4d866815891e391c0 5@teranews:
>>>
>>>>TeGGer® wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I
>>>>>need to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order
>>>>>to remove it from the control arm?
>>>>
>>>>no.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the
>>>>>trailing arm once it's oriented just the right way?
>>>>
>>>>yes, you can service it ok without the need to disconnect. the donut
>>>>only /looks/ like it's all the way through!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I'm planning to take the arm to a garage to have them press a new bushing
>>>in. Still OK?
>>>
>>
>>unless there's too much rust or any cracking, sure, it's fine. first time
>>i replaced bushings, i stripped the arm right down. last time though, i
>>left it nearly complete & the shop managed it just fine. may want to
>>remove the compensator arm though. loosening the bolt with the arm out it
>>real tricky - advise you loosen while still on the vehicle, then remove
>>once you have the arm out. and make sure the compensator's attached
>>before trying to refit the trailing arm - the bolt has no clearance to be
>>refitted in situ. oh, and make sure the shop knows what they're doing.
>>pretty important they understand the orientation of the new bushing when
>>it goes in. sounds obvious but...
>>
>
> On a '90 Civic, you would need to remove the hub to disconnect the parking
> brake, wouldn't you? I'm planning to take the arm to a machine shop with a
> minimum of dissasembly. Looks like you remove brake drum, dust cover,
> spindle nut and hub, disconnect the parking brake, unbolt the compensator,
> upper and lower controll arms, remove bolts at trailing arm bushing, and
> that should just about do it. Or am I missing something? Is there an easier
> way?
>
> Thanks,
> WW
>
>
don't need to disassemble the whole hub, just the drum & brake stuff.
that releases the cable and you can feed it back through the hole in the
backing plate. other than that, yes, disconnect the brake cable from
the arm, the hydraulic lines [use hose pinches to avoid having to bleed
the whole system again] and the nuts-n-bolts, & you're good to go.

there's one more tip on removing the rear lower control arm bolt - with
the vehicle up on stands, jack up the contol arm so it's in the position
it would be if it were wheeled & on the road. that way, the bolt comes
out easily. if it's down in the unweighted position, it's real hard to
get out. do the reverse for reassembly.

"jim beam" > wrote in message
news:1113283549.da275f0a5bcc8458c451746643b0bd30@t eranews...
> WaterWatcher wrote:
>> "jim beam" > wrote in message
>> news:1113223811.82b32f68dd9c1a32cc1b568569c96524@t eranews...
>>
>>>TeGGer® wrote:
>>>
>>>>jim beam > wrote in
>>>>news:1113195287.66cbd0b8e5285b4d866815891e391c 05@teranews:
>>>>
>>>>>TeGGer® wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I
>>>>>>need to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order
>>>>>>to remove it from the control arm?
>>>>>
>>>>>no.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the
>>>>>>trailing arm once it's oriented just the right way?
>>>>>
>>>>>yes, you can service it ok without the need to disconnect. the donut
>>>>>only /looks/ like it's all the way through!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I'm planning to take the arm to a garage to have them press a new
>>>>bushing in. Still OK?
>>>>
>>>
>>>unless there's too much rust or any cracking, sure, it's fine. first
>>>time i replaced bushings, i stripped the arm right down. last time
>>>though, i left it nearly complete & the shop managed it just fine. may
>>>want to remove the compensator arm though. loosening the bolt with the
>>>arm out it real tricky - advise you loosen while still on the vehicle,
>>>then remove once you have the arm out. and make sure the compensator's
>>>attached before trying to refit the trailing arm - the bolt has no
>>>clearance to be refitted in situ. oh, and make sure the shop knows what
>>>they're doing. pretty important they understand the orientation of the
>>>new bushing when it goes in. sounds obvious but...
>>>
>>
>> On a '90 Civic, you would need to remove the hub to disconnect the
>> parking brake, wouldn't you? I'm planning to take the arm to a machine
>> shop with a minimum of dissasembly. Looks like you remove brake drum,
>> dust cover, spindle nut and hub, disconnect the parking brake, unbolt the
>> compensator, upper and lower controll arms, remove bolts at trailing arm
>> bushing, and that should just about do it. Or am I missing something? Is
>> there an easier way?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> WW
> don't need to disassemble the whole hub, just the drum & brake stuff. that
> releases the cable and you can feed it back through the hole in the
> backing plate. other than that, yes, disconnect the brake cable from the
> arm, the hydraulic lines [use hose pinches to avoid having to bleed the
> whole system again] and the nuts-n-bolts, & you're good to go.
>
> there's one more tip on removing the rear lower control arm bolt - with
> the vehicle up on stands, jack up the contol arm so it's in the position
> it would be if it were wheeled & on the road. that way, the bolt comes
> out easily. if it's down in the unweighted position, it's real hard to
> get out. do the reverse for reassembly.
>

OK, so you need to take the brake shoes off to get to where parking brake is
attached? Also, what do you use to pinch the hoses? Vice grips, or is
there some special tool?

Thanks for your help,
WW

WaterWatcher wrote:
> "jim beam" > wrote in message
> news:1113283549.da275f0a5bcc8458c451746643b0bd30@t eranews...
>
>>WaterWatcher wrote:
>>
>>>"jim beam" > wrote in message
>>>news:1113223811.82b32f68dd9c1a32cc1b568569c9652 4@teranews...
>>>
>>>
>>>>TeGGer® wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>jim beam > wrote in
>>>>>news:1113195287.66cbd0b8e5285b4d866815891e391 c05@teranews:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>TeGGer® wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>If I was to remove the rear trailing arm on the 1991 Integra, would I
>>>>>>>need to disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer in order
>>>>>>>to remove it from the control arm?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>no.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Or will that big rubber donut somehow pass through its hole in the
>>>>>>>trailing arm once it's oriented just the right way?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>yes, you can service it ok without the need to disconnect. the donut
>>>>>>only /looks/ like it's all the way through!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>I'm planning to take the arm to a garage to have them press a new
>>>>>bushing in. Still OK?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>unless there's too much rust or any cracking, sure, it's fine. first
>>>>time i replaced bushings, i stripped the arm right down. last time
>>>>though, i left it nearly complete & the shop managed it just fine. may
>>>>want to remove the compensator arm though. loosening the bolt with the
>>>>arm out it real tricky - advise you loosen while still on the vehicle,
>>>>then remove once you have the arm out. and make sure the compensator's
>>>>attached before trying to refit the trailing arm - the bolt has no
>>>>clearance to be refitted in situ. oh, and make sure the shop knows what
>>>>they're doing. pretty important they understand the orientation of the
>>>>new bushing when it goes in. sounds obvious but...
>>>>
>>>
>>>On a '90 Civic, you would need to remove the hub to disconnect the
>>>parking brake, wouldn't you? I'm planning to take the arm to a machine
>>>shop with a minimum of dissasembly. Looks like you remove brake drum,
>>>dust cover, spindle nut and hub, disconnect the parking brake, unbolt the
>>>compensator, upper and lower controll arms, remove bolts at trailing arm
>>>bushing, and that should just about do it. Or am I missing something? Is
>>>there an easier way?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>WW
>>
>>don't need to disassemble the whole hub, just the drum & brake stuff. that
>>releases the cable and you can feed it back through the hole in the
>>backing plate. other than that, yes, disconnect the brake cable from the
>>arm, the hydraulic lines [use hose pinches to avoid having to bleed the
>>whole system again] and the nuts-n-bolts, & you're good to go.
>>
>>there's one more tip on removing the rear lower control arm bolt - with
>>the vehicle up on stands, jack up the contol arm so it's in the position
>>it would be if it were wheeled & on the road. that way, the bolt comes
>>out easily. if it's down in the unweighted position, it's real hard to
>>get out. do the reverse for reassembly.
>>
>
>
> OK, so you need to take the brake shoes off to get to where parking brake is
> attached?

yes.

> Also, what do you use to pinch the hoses? Vice grips, or is
> there some special tool?

i like item KD 3438 on page http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdspec17.html

>
> Thanks for your help,
> WW
>
>
i like item KD 3438

on page http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdspec17.html